'94 ES starting problem and battery size?
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
'94 ES starting problem and battery size?
I thought I would share with you a somewhat unique starting problem with my '94 ES. It never had any problem starting for the past 8 years on its original battery but last week out of the blue, it wouldn't start. The starter gave out a rapid rattling sound when the ignition key was turned. My first inclination based on that noise was a malfunction or stuck starter. Checked the battery and it still showed the "blue" ring and all lights, radio, ... etc functioned properly (the lights weren't dim). Two guys stopped by and offered help including a tow-truck operator and both said my starter was shot due to the rattling noise coming from it. Since I had a set of jumper cable, I decided to jump it just for the hell of it despite the fact that I was fully convinced it was a starter problem. Well, the car started immediately! To make a long story short, the starting problem disappeared after I replaced the old battery with a new one. My question to you all is this--what would cause the starter to rattle like that when it was a battery problem? Sears said my old battery had a "short" in it but couldn't explain why it still had a very strong charge.
My second question is on the battery size. Sears' Diehard book said the '94 ES uses a size 35 which is about 25% smaller than the original battery that they took out and I can't find the battery size from the owner's manual. Is that listed anywhere? My own guess is it is probably a size 24. Do you guys know? The size 35 battery just looks "tiny" as compared to the old one.
My second question is on the battery size. Sears' Diehard book said the '94 ES uses a size 35 which is about 25% smaller than the original battery that they took out and I can't find the battery size from the owner's manual. Is that listed anywhere? My own guess is it is probably a size 24. Do you guys know? The size 35 battery just looks "tiny" as compared to the old one.
#2
Lexus Test Driver
Had the exact opposite problem with a different car. Starter motor was bad but every time I took it to the shop to have it replaced they told me it was just the battery and sent me on my way. Probably threw away a perfectly good battery before I figured out what was going on.
#3
Isn't your battery type listed on the old battery? It was listed on the Lexus battery in my LS, as well as in the owner's manual. It was a 27F. The 35 was also suggested as a suitable replacement when the 27F wasn't available.
You're okay with a 35 as long as:
1. It fits okay in your car
2. The CCA meets the OEM spec
3. The + and - terminals are in the right places (not reversed)
Call the Lexus dealer if you can't figure out your old battery type. Or try calling any auto parts store.
Sears Diehard batteries are good, but are overpriced. They're made by Johnson Controls, which also produces batteries for a variety of other brands (such as many of the batteries I saw at Kragen and Pep Boys).
The free replacement warranty, not the prorated warranty, is the number to look at. Along with the Reserve Time of the battery (assuming it already meets the OEM CCA spec).
You're okay with a 35 as long as:
1. It fits okay in your car
2. The CCA meets the OEM spec
3. The + and - terminals are in the right places (not reversed)
Call the Lexus dealer if you can't figure out your old battery type. Or try calling any auto parts store.
Sears Diehard batteries are good, but are overpriced. They're made by Johnson Controls, which also produces batteries for a variety of other brands (such as many of the batteries I saw at Kragen and Pep Boys).
The free replacement warranty, not the prorated warranty, is the number to look at. Along with the Reserve Time of the battery (assuming it already meets the OEM CCA spec).
Last edited by kreativ; 09-10-02 at 06:51 PM.
#5
Pro-rating would only be if the battery doesn't last as long as the pro-rated warranty.
So if you purchased a $50 battery with a 7 year warranty and it only lasted 6, you get ~$7 off a new battery.
All car batteries I've seen selling at your usual retail locations (including your dealer) have a pro-rated warranty. The more valuable figure is the "free replacement" warranty period.
So if you purchased a $50 battery with a 7 year warranty and it only lasted 6, you get ~$7 off a new battery.
All car batteries I've seen selling at your usual retail locations (including your dealer) have a pro-rated warranty. The more valuable figure is the "free replacement" warranty period.
#6
Super Moderator
i replaced my battery and checker/schucks/kragen had two types of battery to fit the ES (according to their computer system). i think they were diff't sizes but i got the more expensive one ($85). it had more cranking power but when i installed it, it was physically smaller than the original battery. the battery tray on the Lex was about 3 or so inches wider and maybe a half inch taller so after a few weeks i notice my battery has slid around in the tray and is now wedged itself in a diagonal way so i guess it wont slide anymore. anyway, so yeah, thats my battery size story.
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Per kreativ's suggestion, I called the dealer and they told me the correct battery size group is 24F. The only difference between the size 35 Sears Diehard Gold which is installed on my car and the 24F is CCA rating. Both have 36 months full replacement plus a prorated warranty afterwards. If I recall the size 35 is rated at 650 CCA whereas the 24F is like 750CCA. I may just go in and get Sears to get me the right size so it looks better in the battery tray.
I found out afterwards that I could've gotten a Champion battery with the same rating and warranty for only about $45 installed at Sam's Club whereas the Diehard Gold cost me $90 installed (Sears charges $10 for installation).
I found out afterwards that I could've gotten a Champion battery with the same rating and warranty for only about $45 installed at Sam's Club whereas the Diehard Gold cost me $90 installed (Sears charges $10 for installation).
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#8
I found out afterwards that I could've gotten a Champion battery with the same rating and warranty for only about $45 installed at Sam's Club whereas the Diehard Gold cost me $90 installed (Sears charges $10 for installation).
You want CCA to meet OEM spec, but a greater amount is only useful if you're in a cold weather climate. I could easily run off a battery with a CCA lower than OEM spec here in southern California.
If you're in a warm weather climate, the more important number is the Reserve Time the battery has. With a particular size, higher CCA usually means lower Reserve Time.
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