ES300 Problems (Help)
06-06-09, 12:28 PM
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ES300 Problems (Help)
98 Lexus ES300 - 120k
1- Passenger window only goes down from the drive side keypad BUT only goes up from the passenger side keypad. What could be the cause of this problem?
2- The car doesnt seem to be reading the engine temperature - the needle on the gauge is always down (on cool) - it doesnt level out to the middle any more. Why? =\
3- Im pretty sure there has to be some kind of radiator fluid leak somewhere, its always running low and i've been having to add more fluid every few days. Any ideas where i should begin looking for a leak?
4- any maintenace tips as i am already hittin 120k and i want this car to last me much more! its a great car...
1- Passenger window only goes down from the drive side keypad BUT only goes up from the passenger side keypad. What could be the cause of this problem?
2- The car doesnt seem to be reading the engine temperature - the needle on the gauge is always down (on cool) - it doesnt level out to the middle any more. Why? =\
3- Im pretty sure there has to be some kind of radiator fluid leak somewhere, its always running low and i've been having to add more fluid every few days. Any ideas where i should begin looking for a leak?
4- any maintenace tips as i am already hittin 120k and i want this car to last me much more! its a great car...
06-06-09, 03:56 PM
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llcoolpass - Yea, seems like im def. gonna have to take this thing into a shop to get it diagnosed, as far as why the temp. isnt being read. I was thinking, doesnt that guage have a sensor? could it have possibly gone bad?
will - Im gonna have to check for leakage underneath, any idea where i should begin lookin for a radiator coolant leak?
anyone have any tips or ideas as far as the window problem im having?
how about the window problem?
will - Im gonna have to check for leakage underneath, any idea where i should begin lookin for a radiator coolant leak?
anyone have any tips or ideas as far as the window problem im having?
how about the window problem?
06-06-09, 04:35 PM
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I would recomend purchasing a Hayes, or Chilton manual for your car. They are written for people with basic mechanical skills. As opposed to Field service manuals which are written for senior level mechanics.
The book will tell you where the sensor is located (ie near the fill cap located at the front of the engine). Along with many other things that should help you.
As far as the window, if one switch operates properly (both up and down ), and the other switch will only go one direction, then it must be the switch itself.
The book will tell you where the sensor is located (ie near the fill cap located at the front of the engine). Along with many other things that should help you.
As far as the window, if one switch operates properly (both up and down ), and the other switch will only go one direction, then it must be the switch itself.
06-06-09, 07:04 PM
#7
My mom has a Gallant and its the same with her car also. I think its just form the hot weather. Anyone else confirm?
But ya, if you are not seeing fluid leak from your car you should be ok. Just keep filling it up. It will eventually hold also. I think that if you don't pay attention to it, it gets really low and takes a few fills to stable out.
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06-06-09, 07:32 PM
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It's the engine coolant temp sensor. And you should not have to continue adding coolant, I assume that you do not see any underneath the car, do you see any white smoke on startup?
06-06-09, 09:44 PM
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Sometimes I overlook stating the obvious, but since some of the people posting here are just beginning working on their own cars, I should have also stated that at the begining. My bad
06-07-09, 07:19 AM
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Yeh, i just began working on my own cars. I really appreciate all the help from all of you who have replied.
George - no white smoke on start up - im gonna keep an eye on the coolant level as well as an eye out for any unusual leakage.
one more thing... on the dash theres a light on a little car looking like the back lights are on... ive checked the black lights and they are working fine as well as the turn signals... any idea what it is?
George - no white smoke on start up - im gonna keep an eye on the coolant level as well as an eye out for any unusual leakage.
one more thing... on the dash theres a light on a little car looking like the back lights are on... ive checked the black lights and they are working fine as well as the turn signals... any idea what it is?
06-07-09, 07:48 AM
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one more thing... on the dash theres a light on a little car looking like the back lights are on... ive checked the black lights and they are working fine as well as the turn signals... any idea what it is?[/QUOTE] Check the rear light bulbs, are they the correct bulbs, evenly lite. There may be a poor ground.
As far as the coolant leak, if you don't see any leaks, the next step is to run a compression check.
The other possibility is that the heater core is leaking, that would end up on the carpets, inside the car.
A professional would pressure check the system, which involes removing the cap, and installing a tool that allows you to apply pressure (app 12psi) and checking for leaks. Most people do not have these types of tools, but you might be able to hook up with the local high school auto shop and have them pressure check the system.
You are using too much coolant, there is a problem! You can find it now, or wait until it gets worse. if you wait, it could end up being more expensive.
As far as the coolant leak, if you don't see any leaks, the next step is to run a compression check.
The other possibility is that the heater core is leaking, that would end up on the carpets, inside the car.
A professional would pressure check the system, which involes removing the cap, and installing a tool that allows you to apply pressure (app 12psi) and checking for leaks. Most people do not have these types of tools, but you might be able to hook up with the local high school auto shop and have them pressure check the system.
You are using too much coolant, there is a problem! You can find it now, or wait until it gets worse. if you wait, it could end up being more expensive.
06-07-09, 09:20 AM
#14
1. sounds like you may have two window switches that are bad. they need to be tested.
2. your vehicle temperature is directly related to your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). It is quite possible that it has failed considering that it is not reading anything at all and you appear to be losing coolant. Unless there is a wiring problem to the sensor. Which is also possible. Considering your coolant loss issues if air enters the coolant system and passes over the ECT it will cause the reading on the dash to go HOT. Since the sensor is not designed to read air. It's resistance values aren't set in that heat range.
3. I worry that you've already overheated the vehicle sufficiently to cause damage. You need to have a test done called a Block Test. This will let us know if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant system. This is a worst case scenario though. Simply based on your issues and some "situational diag". Heater core, radiator, and any of the hoses could also be a culprit. Don't bypass the block test though! If your heater core is leaking then most likely it will be leaking into the cab onto the passenger side floorboard. Although sometimes it can get trapped in the HVAC box which houses the heater core and is behind your dash. get on your back and peak up under your glove box,(after removing the plastic shield, if there is one), and there should be what looks like a bunch of plastic. See if you can notice any rust colored deposits under there.
4. what engine are we working on? Timing belt and water pump for sure. Also a transmission fluid flush is a great 30k maintenance idea on these toyota trannies!
If your car was in one of my service bays, first thing I would do is block test it. If it passes the block test (2 or 3 times to be sure) then Like the previous post said, I would pressure test it and look for leaks. If nothing surfaces I then may go to a compression test and trying a thermostat...The pressure test is most likely to give you some answers. all with remembering to properly test the ECT and it's circuit.
Sorry I'm so long winded, hope this helps...
2. your vehicle temperature is directly related to your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). It is quite possible that it has failed considering that it is not reading anything at all and you appear to be losing coolant. Unless there is a wiring problem to the sensor. Which is also possible. Considering your coolant loss issues if air enters the coolant system and passes over the ECT it will cause the reading on the dash to go HOT. Since the sensor is not designed to read air. It's resistance values aren't set in that heat range.
3. I worry that you've already overheated the vehicle sufficiently to cause damage. You need to have a test done called a Block Test. This will let us know if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant system. This is a worst case scenario though. Simply based on your issues and some "situational diag". Heater core, radiator, and any of the hoses could also be a culprit. Don't bypass the block test though! If your heater core is leaking then most likely it will be leaking into the cab onto the passenger side floorboard. Although sometimes it can get trapped in the HVAC box which houses the heater core and is behind your dash. get on your back and peak up under your glove box,(after removing the plastic shield, if there is one), and there should be what looks like a bunch of plastic. See if you can notice any rust colored deposits under there.
4. what engine are we working on? Timing belt and water pump for sure. Also a transmission fluid flush is a great 30k maintenance idea on these toyota trannies!
If your car was in one of my service bays, first thing I would do is block test it. If it passes the block test (2 or 3 times to be sure) then Like the previous post said, I would pressure test it and look for leaks. If nothing surfaces I then may go to a compression test and trying a thermostat...The pressure test is most likely to give you some answers. all with remembering to properly test the ECT and it's circuit.
Sorry I'm so long winded, hope this helps...
06-07-09, 01:30 PM
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1. sounds like you may have two window switches that are bad. they need to be tested.
2. your vehicle temperature is directly related to your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). It is quite possible that it has failed considering that it is not reading anything at all and you appear to be losing coolant. Unless there is a wiring problem to the sensor. Which is also possible. Considering your coolant loss issues if air enters the coolant system and passes over the ECT it will cause the reading on the dash to go HOT. Since the sensor is not designed to read air. It's resistance values aren't set in that heat range.
3. I worry that you've already overheated the vehicle sufficiently to cause damage. You need to have a test done called a Block Test. This will let us know if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant system. This is a worst case scenario though. Simply based on your issues and some "situational diag". Heater core, radiator, and any of the hoses could also be a culprit. Don't bypass the block test though! If your heater core is leaking then most likely it will be leaking into the cab onto the passenger side floorboard. Although sometimes it can get trapped in the HVAC box which houses the heater core and is behind your dash. get on your back and peak up under your glove box,(after removing the plastic shield, if there is one), and there should be what looks like a bunch of plastic. See if you can notice any rust colored deposits under there.
4. what engine are we working on? Timing belt and water pump for sure. Also a transmission fluid flush is a great 30k maintenance idea on these toyota trannies!
If your car was in one of my service bays, first thing I would do is block test it. If it passes the block test (2 or 3 times to be sure) then Like the previous post said, I would pressure test it and look for leaks. If nothing surfaces I then may go to a compression test and trying a thermostat...The pressure test is most likely to give you some answers. all with remembering to properly test the ECT and it's circuit.
Sorry I'm so long winded, hope this helps...
2. your vehicle temperature is directly related to your ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). It is quite possible that it has failed considering that it is not reading anything at all and you appear to be losing coolant. Unless there is a wiring problem to the sensor. Which is also possible. Considering your coolant loss issues if air enters the coolant system and passes over the ECT it will cause the reading on the dash to go HOT. Since the sensor is not designed to read air. It's resistance values aren't set in that heat range.
3. I worry that you've already overheated the vehicle sufficiently to cause damage. You need to have a test done called a Block Test. This will let us know if there are exhaust gasses in the coolant system. This is a worst case scenario though. Simply based on your issues and some "situational diag". Heater core, radiator, and any of the hoses could also be a culprit. Don't bypass the block test though! If your heater core is leaking then most likely it will be leaking into the cab onto the passenger side floorboard. Although sometimes it can get trapped in the HVAC box which houses the heater core and is behind your dash. get on your back and peak up under your glove box,(after removing the plastic shield, if there is one), and there should be what looks like a bunch of plastic. See if you can notice any rust colored deposits under there.
4. what engine are we working on? Timing belt and water pump for sure. Also a transmission fluid flush is a great 30k maintenance idea on these toyota trannies!
If your car was in one of my service bays, first thing I would do is block test it. If it passes the block test (2 or 3 times to be sure) then Like the previous post said, I would pressure test it and look for leaks. If nothing surfaces I then may go to a compression test and trying a thermostat...The pressure test is most likely to give you some answers. all with remembering to properly test the ECT and it's circuit.
Sorry I'm so long winded, hope this helps...
Good point on the timming belt, If he has 120 k on it, then it would be a good idea to get that done. The water leak could very well be the water pump seals starting to go out. Very common on a high mileage pump, very good idea to have the pump and timming belt done at the same time (because you have to remove the timming belt to replace the water pump). It is also a good idea to replace the crank, and cam seals at this time. Oil leaks onto the timming belt are a very bad thing. So if the shop you take it to recomends timming belt, water pump, crank & cam seals do not be alarmed. They are just trying to do job properly.