skeemer

Today I took the intake and throttle body apart and cleaned it all out. I put everything back, bolted and screwed everything back on, hooked up all the hoses to the proper places, but it won't start. It starts turning over, and we can feel exhaust coming out of the tailpipe, but it won't run on its own. Normally when having trouble starting the engine if you give it some gas it will catch, and you can feel the fuel going into the engine through the pedal, but when I try that now there's no such feeling, as in theres not nearly as much resistance, it just feels like I'm pulling on the throttle cable. Also, I could hear a hissing sound coming from the front fuel rail and vibration in the fuel lines. The hissing/vibration sound coming from the front fuel rail area happens whenever the key is in the ON position, not just that one time, and I would assume it happens while in the START position but I can't hear it over the engine. I've never heard this sound before with my key in the ON position before. I did spray alot of carburator cleaner (and it says its safe for O2 sensors and cat converters) into the manifold beyond the throttle body and tried to wipe as much of it as possible. Could this be the problem, or is my problem more serious? I didn't touch anything besides the throttle body and air intake, and all my disconnections were made from the throttle body end. Thanks for your help.

EDIT: After reattaching the throttle body to the manifold, we had left the MAF sensor unplugged because we were unsure of putting it back in (there are 7 pins). The Throttle Position Sensor was also unplugged, and the car started but ran very rough. We attached the TPS and started it and it ran roughly for about 5 seconds and then stalled. This was reproduceable. Then we pushed the MAF sensor in and held it in by hand and the car started and ran normally (very smooth). We then screwed the MAF sensor back in and thats where we stand now.

Also, when the car ran fine on its own, some dark gray smoke was coming out of the tailpipe (presumably the cleaner that was pulled in and sludge/buildup that was broken up by the cleaner but not removed?) It also smelled like burning aerosol.

steviej

iTrader: (1)

your description pretty much narrows it down to the MAF sensor. Something may have happened when you attached it permenantly. Remove it and inspect it. Make sure the resistor didn't get smashed or a wire broke. Inspect the pins, maybe one broke and is not making a connection.

If it is not starting, a trouble code may have been sent. Pull the code upon no start and that may lead you to what is not sending the right signal.

the 92 is OBD I, codes 31 and 32 are Air Flow Meter Signal codes.

(Lexus Code Retrieval)

steviej

Toysrme

Good luck finding an OBD 1 scanner.

To elaborate on what Steve is saying.
With the car off take a wire and short pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic port in the engine bay.
Turn the key to ON, but do not crank it. Now the Check Engine Light will flash. It flashes to tell you the error code. 32 would be 3 flashes, pause and 2 flashes.

What you want is no error code at which point the CEL will flash ones ever 1/4 second and not stop.
If you get an error code & can't look it up, post again and I'll tell you what it is.

steviej

iTrader: (1)

thanks Toys, I know what you mean about finding an OBD I scanner. Your method is explained on the website that I linked to, it even has diagrams.

steviej

Toysrme

Wow didn't even see the link LoL! hahahahahahaha

skeemer

Thanks for the help guys.

I tried the method from the website and from Toys and didn't get a CEL warning. I tried shorting it before and after turning the key to ON and didn't get the light either time. I also don't get the light when I try and start the car and it fails.

What bothers me most is the sound coming from the engine when the key is ON, because I've never heard this before. Its a hissing sound, it sounds almost like bleeding air, and it comes from either the front fuel rail or something in that vicinity. I haven't been able to see or feel any leaks.

flipside909

Did you unplug a vaccum line by accident? It's possible.

skeemer

I checked every vacuum hose I could find. I found one unplugged, I believe its the EVAP hose coming off of the back-underside of the throttle body, and goes across the back of the intake manifold to the passenger side of the car. I reconnected this and tried again but no luck. Also, one of my spark plug wires was loose and I pushed that back in firmly and that made the hissing sound go away. I unplugged and replugged the MAF sensor but it still doesn't start. Before I plugged the EVAP hose back in I got the yellow oil light when the key was on, now I don't. I'm pretty confused here, and it looks like I'll be having it towed to my mechanic this afternoon.

flipside909

Keep us updated with your findings. Hopefully it will be resolved soon. Good luck.

skeemer

My mechanic got to take a look at my car today and couldn't figure out exactly what the problem was. I talked to him a little after noon today and he said they had put the scanner on and gotten no error codes, which doesn't surprise me since I never had any CELs. They checked all my wires and hoses and everything was attached properly. They're pretty puzzled, and he said he called a few other mechanics and nobody had any ideas. He thinks the MAF may have burned out or burned something out in the computer (if this is possible?). I believe he said if its the MAF its like $400 for the part and he thinks I should take it to a dealer. I had called a used Toyota/Lexus parts place the other day just to get an idea of a MAF price and they told me $125.

What do you guys think? If it's the MAF sensor I believe my mechanic should be able to install the part himself, and if its $400+ for it would I be ok buying a used sensor? If he can't come to a conclusion should I take it to Toyota and see what they have to say? I would like to keep the cost to a minimum, but I also need this resoluted as quickly as possible because I am currently without transportation and I work 7am to after 5pm monday-friday. I don't think I can afford to take it to a Lexus dealer, despite the fact that I'd have a loaner if I took it to them. Any suggestions?

steviej

iTrader: (1)

what is your guarantee that if you buy the $400 or $125 MAF sensor, and it isn't the problem....will they return the part and refund you money?

steviej.

lexusk8

skeemer, this is a hard and difficult problem to find a reasonable solution. For one thing, neither you nor the mechanic have found any concrete proof of what is causing your ES to not start. If the dealership cannot also find the source of the problem, then you know it's not worth it to leave the car in their hands and waste yours and their time, as well as your money. As steviej mentioned, you are almost risking yourself the $400 or so to see if the MAF sensor is the exact problem or not (ask yourself, "how do you know with 100% certainty that it is a bad MAF sensor?"). I'd say leave it alone for now and keep trying to diagnose the problem. Maybe check out the illogical areas like the battery and the fuel pump. From the last couple of your posts, you seem to be on the right track in trying to locate the problem, so I'd try to keep at it. I honestly don't like getting myself into the sometimes "fatal" trial-and-error process when it comes to parts replacement

skeemer

Good news!!

My mechanic was able to borrow a MAF sensor from someone rather than buying it to try it on my car, and it started it right up. So he bought the part from the guy and my car is back to normal again.

$200 for the MAF + labor and $65 for the diagnosis, much better than I would have done at even a Toyota dealer, so I'm very happy.

I think this is the last time I fool around with this engine. Next year when I buy an IS or similar type car after I graduate I plan on trying to become more mechanically savvy, but for now I'm content with letting others take care of it for me lest I screw it up again.

Thanks for everyone's help.