UsableLoki

I've been working on swapping all the LED's in the air conditioning and radio display. Its been a bit of work but its been worth it. It took about 4 days taking my time and having distractions. The LED's i used were 1206 smd for the AC displays and 0603 smd for the Radio display. 50 count 1206's were plenty (extra to spare, didn't burn or lose a single one). I would recommend getting around 70 count 0603 (burned a few/lost). The 0603 were pretty delicate and small to work with. Start with the ac display so you have practice built up to begin on the radio. I had to reorder for the 0603 so now I have way more spare than I'd need.

All-in-all it was pretty straight forward of a project. Find out how to remove the dash (it's not that gentle to pull off) I didn't break a single bracket getting it off and on multiple times. Remove the screws for the yellow ac display backing, remove the screws from the board itself and pull the board off. It might seem stuck but that's because the display is semi glued to the display cover of the dash (ofc, make sure all screws are off for sure). The big pain with this board is to get to the LED's under the display. I had to use a heat gun to carefully pull off all the leads that went through the board. Don't rush this part because the board is delicate and can break easily. Luckily I had a spare from the extra unit I got so I was able to replace with that one. Then you can access the row of LED's underneath and swap them. Putting the display back on was also tough because all the solder needed to be removed from all the holes of the leads to get the display back on. Then just carefully put the display back on and resolder all the leads making sure the display is flush. (again don't rush anything at all with that display, take your time- the other display for the radio is way easier to work with). I am unsure if the clock can be changed, if anyone knows a separate compatible clock or a way to change its color, it let me know.

For the radio, the 4 pink clips have to be removed to get the radio assembly off the rest of the dash unit. Pull off the volume and control ****, remove from the unit and unscrew 2 front face screws you can now see. Then undue the two lips gripping the top and the bottom and voila, the circuit board is accessible. Now just unscrew the board from the cover and you have access to the front. The rubber trim can easily be pulled off and the display only has bent prongs keeping it in place (one is covered in solder, need to remove the solder). This board did not show which direction each LED went, but if you look very very closesly at each LED on the board, you can tell that the spec of the LED was shifted to one side or the other. So I drew a legend of which way I saw the point for each LED. I think that I had the arrows pointing to the negative of each connection. From there on, I just had to swap each LED respectfully. Using a simple multi-meter continuity check lit the LED up softly so I was able to use that to check if I had a good solder as I went on. (However, reattaching either board to the base connection of the harness-ac circuit board, or the CD/radio box- radio circuit board did not do any damage to me to check if it all worked, even if I had all the old LED's and the displays pulled).


Now, the only thing I have left with to work on is the ignition push start. Earlier before posting this I was able to remove it out and slightly open the assembly to see 2 count pronged diodes inside. If anyone has information on the types of LED's I can swap on this it would be awesome if someone can let me know! I'll probably eventually figure it out but I won't be able to pull the ignition button again for a week or two.

Apologies for grammar and not being organized when posting these. I also save the pictures as I take snapchats of them so some might have silly expressions and text because thats what I do on my snaps ha. I don't post stuff on the internet much. I'm more trying to share the information and work if anyone wants to do the same. All the old topics over this don't have images anymore and no one really responds much to any questions regarding this.

Feel free to contact me with regards to any questions. I'll try my best to answer- Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any misuse, damage, and misinformation regarding any and all work anyone does with this as reference! I'll try to help because helping people is great but do this all at your own risk!!!

Alexbenz

did you have to solder the bulbs on? or simple swap

Blue Moose Engineering

I can't believe it came mixed red and green like that from the factory. What a mistake that was!

UsableLoki

Yeah they all had to be resoldered on the boards

UsableLoki

I know! I couldn't stand the early Christmas vibes of mixed green and red. No idea how that could have gotten past their QA

2slow

iTrader: (5)

The start button is a little tricky. I don't have pictures of the DIY I did, so I'll try my best to explain.

1. Remove smart button cover. Held in by tabs so if you just pry the sides it should pop off.
2.Here is the difficult part. Put 2 small screwdrivers in between the housing and the circuit board, then begin to solder 2 points that are marked ANT. You'll need to lift as solder and remove it from the circuit board. There are 2 types of LEDs. 1 bi-color 5mm 3 prong led that lights up when you depress the brake(Green) and when the vehicle is in ACC(amber). There is a 3mm 2 prong led that lights up the words.

UsableLoki

Thanks for your response. Your description is spot on. I was able to get it done a few weeks ago. I have pictures too for anyone else that wants to do it themselves. I've just been a bit too busy with school and work to get around to uploading the pictures. A post should be up next week once I'm done with finals