Need advise - 2007 vs. 2010
#1
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Need advise - 2007 vs. 2010
Hello,
New to the board, I have learned a TON already on here, I appreciate everyone's insight!
I am looking to purchase either a 2007 ES UL or a 2010 ES basic package, both from private sellers. Here are the details:
2007 ES UL
$7,500
130,000 Miles (mostly freeway)
Good Condition
2010 ES Base
$18,800
37,000 Miles
Good Condition
I have read about the 2007 issues (VVT-i hose, tranny flare, cold engine start noise), but the first 2 issues appear to have been dealt with (will confirm with a pre-purchase inspection at local dealership).
My plan is to purchase the 2007, drive it for 70,000 more miles, then buy something else, but I would appreciate your advise on this decision.
Thanks in advance!
Jim
New to the board, I have learned a TON already on here, I appreciate everyone's insight!
I am looking to purchase either a 2007 ES UL or a 2010 ES basic package, both from private sellers. Here are the details:
2007 ES UL
$7,500
130,000 Miles (mostly freeway)
Good Condition
2010 ES Base
$18,800
37,000 Miles
Good Condition
I have read about the 2007 issues (VVT-i hose, tranny flare, cold engine start noise), but the first 2 issues appear to have been dealt with (will confirm with a pre-purchase inspection at local dealership).
My plan is to purchase the 2007, drive it for 70,000 more miles, then buy something else, but I would appreciate your advise on this decision.
Thanks in advance!
Jim
#2
2010 all the way.
#4
I'd say it's all about how much you want to pay. The 07 looks very similar to the 10 and most folks couldn't pick them apart in a lineup. The 10 will have Bluetooth so you wont need an aux cord. All of the bugs had been worked out too. Both are similar and great cars. I'd check the maintenance records on the water pump and transmission fluid changes. You can access records on the lexus website. And if the plugs haven't been changed, you'd want to get that done.
I would have bought an 07 but my credit union would only finance 08 or newer.
I would have bought an 07 but my credit union would only finance 08 or newer.
Last edited by 12jimmyjam; 09-30-15 at 08:52 PM.
#5
#7
Hello,
New to the board, I have learned a TON already on here, I appreciate everyone's insight!
I am looking to purchase either a 2007 ES UL or a 2010 ES basic package, both from private sellers. Here are the details:
2007 ES UL
$7,500
130,000 Miles (mostly freeway)
Good Condition
2010 ES Base
$18,800
37,000 Miles
Good Condition
I have read about the 2007 issues (VVT-i hose, tranny flare, cold engine start noise), but the first 2 issues appear to have been dealt with (will confirm with a pre-purchase inspection at local dealership).
My plan is to purchase the 2007, drive it for 70,000 more miles, then buy something else, but I would appreciate your advise on this decision.
Thanks in advance!
Jim
New to the board, I have learned a TON already on here, I appreciate everyone's insight!
I am looking to purchase either a 2007 ES UL or a 2010 ES basic package, both from private sellers. Here are the details:
2007 ES UL
$7,500
130,000 Miles (mostly freeway)
Good Condition
2010 ES Base
$18,800
37,000 Miles
Good Condition
I have read about the 2007 issues (VVT-i hose, tranny flare, cold engine start noise), but the first 2 issues appear to have been dealt with (will confirm with a pre-purchase inspection at local dealership).
My plan is to purchase the 2007, drive it for 70,000 more miles, then buy something else, but I would appreciate your advise on this decision.
Thanks in advance!
Jim
Why would you purchase a 2010 vehicle when they are the exact same as the 2008-2009 ones with some trivial cosmetic changes (side mirror signals, more chrome)? If you buy 2010 and up, you will be getting the base model. If you choose 2008-2009 you can find an ultra premium with navigation for 11-14k...
Find a 2008-2009 vehicle and you'll be paying around 11,000-14,000. Stay away from the 2007's, they are great vehicles but whats the point when you can get a 2008 for the same price range...
Also, why are you going for a car with 130k miles... try to find one with 50k-80k miles on it. They're not much of a price difference, well, at least here in Canada. Seen a 70,000km(not miles) vehicle sell for $14,300 ultra premium with nav 2008
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#8
The 2007, in hindsight, was a trial run for Lexus and the 2008 has numerous improvements done to it, including smaller side mirrors, rear lights, redesign of window trim and weatherstripping. Early 2007s are even worse than late model 2007s. Coming from that experience, I would never recommend buying a 2007. In fact, I advise people to save to get a 2008.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
#9
Lexus Champion
It looks like the OP hasn't been back. I wonder what he did? Many times someone will post one of these "what should I get?" threads never to be heard from again.
#11
The 2007, in hindsight, was a trial run for Lexus and the 2008 has numerous improvements done to it, including smaller side mirrors, rear lights, redesign of window trim and weatherstripping. Early 2007s are even worse than late model 2007s. Coming from that experience, I would never recommend buying a 2007. In fact, I advise people to save to get a 2008.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
#12
2013+, but not all of them have dual-pane windows. To me it made a huge difference on the highway, because it entirely eliminated all wind noise that was present in the single pane windows. If the 2013 dual pane windows fit on our generation, I would definitely install them because we have a slight wind noise that I would no longer hear.
Last edited by Superes350; 10-09-15 at 07:45 PM.
#13
The 2007, in hindsight, was a trial run for Lexus and the 2008 has numerous improvements done to it, including smaller side mirrors, rear lights, redesign of window trim and weatherstripping. Early 2007s are even worse than late model 2007s. Coming from that experience, I would never recommend buying a 2007. In fact, I advise people to save to get a 2008.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
That being said, the 2010 vs the 2008-2009 models are only slightly different. You get redesigned mirrors with blinkers, chrome lower trim, different tail-lights, different headlights and front bumper, a classier glovebox, different wood trim, and a redesign of the Nav system and AC setup.
With all of that being said, if you can forgo all of that, you'd get a cheaper car with the 2008-2009. While I wouldn't get a UL, have you seen the cost of replacement if it breaks or if the seals need to be replaced, you can certainly get a near top of the line for cheaper. The 2010 isn't much of an improvement, to the point that I wouldn't choose it unless you really like the design. I've actually seem 2013s in a similar price range as the 2010-2012 model, which I personally would choose over the 5th gen model for the nicer design, improved interior(the 2016 has even more improvements that can be purchased and put into the 2013), and better electronics. With 17" wheels and tires, it's also a quieter car especially if you can find one with double pane windows.
you say you wouldnt get a UL, which seals are you talking about or things that break that cost a lot?
i know the AFS headlights will run about $1,500 each what else is more expensive in the uL
#14
The AFS are another added complexity, but I could source used headlights off of eBay for significantly cheaper. They're also $863 per side new.
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