Xenon's start flickering, then cut out (come on again when I turn lights off then on)
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Xenon's start flickering, then cut out (come on again when I turn lights off then on)
Hey guys, any help with this would be appreciated.
I've noticed on my Mom's '07 ES, the HID headlights will come on, then randomly cut out (usually pretty quickly), and when I turn the lights off-then-on, they come back on, and might stay for a while longer. Then, one or both might cut out again.
Anyone know what this might be? Thanks.
I've noticed on my Mom's '07 ES, the HID headlights will come on, then randomly cut out (usually pretty quickly), and when I turn the lights off-then-on, they come back on, and might stay for a while longer. Then, one or both might cut out again.
Anyone know what this might be? Thanks.
#3
CDNlexEX is correct, your bulbs need replacing.
It's easy to replace yourself. The part will set you back $240 though (OEM through the dealer).
1. Remove the plastic HID socket cover by turning it counter-clockwise.
2. Remove the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable by turning counter-clockwise about 45 degrees and pulling towards you.
3. There's a U-shaped set spring retainer that has kind of curled circle ends. This holds the bulb assembly in place by locking into notches on either side at roughly 11:00 & 1:00 on the housing. Pinch those two curled ends towards each other and pull them out and down to clear the notches and swing the retainer downward. This will release the bulb in the very center of the unit.
4. Pull the bulb out by it's base. It's about 3" long and comes straight out. Don't touch the glass if you intend to reuse the bulb.
5. The Toyota HID bulb is part # 90981-20024 (for my 2007 ES350).
6. Holding the new bulb by the base and without touching the glass, push the bulb back into the hole. There are notches & tabs in the base and mount that must match. Just rotate the bulb until it catches.
7. Reset the retaining spring by swinging it up and pushing it in while pinching the curled ends a bit. Release the ends when they lock into the metal notches on the housing. Make sure the retainer is secure before proceeding.
8. Reattach the metal socket fitting by pushing in at and turning clockwise 45 degrees from roughly a 10:00 to a 12:00 position.
9. Reattach the plastic cover by turning it clockwise.
That's all there is to it.
It's easy to replace yourself. The part will set you back $240 though (OEM through the dealer).
1. Remove the plastic HID socket cover by turning it counter-clockwise.
2. Remove the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable by turning counter-clockwise about 45 degrees and pulling towards you.
3. There's a U-shaped set spring retainer that has kind of curled circle ends. This holds the bulb assembly in place by locking into notches on either side at roughly 11:00 & 1:00 on the housing. Pinch those two curled ends towards each other and pull them out and down to clear the notches and swing the retainer downward. This will release the bulb in the very center of the unit.
4. Pull the bulb out by it's base. It's about 3" long and comes straight out. Don't touch the glass if you intend to reuse the bulb.
5. The Toyota HID bulb is part # 90981-20024 (for my 2007 ES350).
6. Holding the new bulb by the base and without touching the glass, push the bulb back into the hole. There are notches & tabs in the base and mount that must match. Just rotate the bulb until it catches.
7. Reset the retaining spring by swinging it up and pushing it in while pinching the curled ends a bit. Release the ends when they lock into the metal notches on the housing. Make sure the retainer is secure before proceeding.
8. Reattach the metal socket fitting by pushing in at and turning clockwise 45 degrees from roughly a 10:00 to a 12:00 position.
9. Reattach the plastic cover by turning it clockwise.
That's all there is to it.
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Thank you very much!
Weird thing is, if I turn them off then back on , they might stay on for hours? Still probably the bulb?
Also, would the CPO Warranty cover this?
Thanks again.
Weird thing is, if I turn them off then back on , they might stay on for hours? Still probably the bulb?
Also, would the CPO Warranty cover this?
Thanks again.
#5
You will probably need new bulbs.
"End of life cycling" is a phenomena associated with HID bulbs as they age.
Check the paragraph titled "End of life" at this link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-in...ischarge_lamps
"End of life cycling" is a phenomena associated with HID bulbs as they age.
Check the paragraph titled "End of life" at this link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-in...ischarge_lamps
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Other than the price, is there any difference in after market low beam HID headlights and the OEM ones?
I am currently experiencing the same problems described above.
I am currently experiencing the same problems described above.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
You can ask, but the CPO warranty clearly states it won't cover wear items such as bulbs, tires, or brakes.
The only real issue I see with going with an aftermarket bulb is if you're only replacing one, there's a good chance it won't match.
If you go OEM you can just replace the one and it'll be fine. If you go aftermarket plan on buying a pair of bulbs unless you want your car looking ghetto.
The only real issue I see with going with an aftermarket bulb is if you're only replacing one, there's a good chance it won't match.
If you go OEM you can just replace the one and it'll be fine. If you go aftermarket plan on buying a pair of bulbs unless you want your car looking ghetto.
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Dreyfus:
I have read your directions regarding changing the HID bulbs. The first part of removing the plastic HID socket was easy. Not sure about removing the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable. I can see the curly heads of the spring at 11:00 and 1:00. Are you saying that the whole housing surrounding the bulb must come out or just the small 1 inch by 1 inch metal piece attached to the braided cable must come out. Also, how can that fitting and the bulb come out when you only have about 3 inches or less room to work because the relay fuse box is right there in back of the bulb area? Any further help and or pictures or video of changing the bulb would certainly help. Thanks in advance!
I have read your directions regarding changing the HID bulbs. The first part of removing the plastic HID socket was easy. Not sure about removing the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable. I can see the curly heads of the spring at 11:00 and 1:00. Are you saying that the whole housing surrounding the bulb must come out or just the small 1 inch by 1 inch metal piece attached to the braided cable must come out. Also, how can that fitting and the bulb come out when you only have about 3 inches or less room to work because the relay fuse box is right there in back of the bulb area? Any further help and or pictures or video of changing the bulb would certainly help. Thanks in advance!
#14
Dreyfus:
I have read your directions regarding changing the HID bulbs. The first part of removing the plastic HID socket was easy. Not sure about removing the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable. I can see the curly heads of the spring at 11:00 and 1:00. Are you saying that the whole housing surrounding the bulb must come out or just the small 1 inch by 1 inch metal piece attached to the braided cable must come out. Also, how can that fitting and the bulb come out when you only have about 3 inches or less room to work because the relay fuse box is right there in back of the bulb area? Any further help and or pictures or video of changing the bulb would certainly help. Thanks in advance!
I have read your directions regarding changing the HID bulbs. The first part of removing the plastic HID socket was easy. Not sure about removing the silver metal socket fitting attached to the braided cable. I can see the curly heads of the spring at 11:00 and 1:00. Are you saying that the whole housing surrounding the bulb must come out or just the small 1 inch by 1 inch metal piece attached to the braided cable must come out. Also, how can that fitting and the bulb come out when you only have about 3 inches or less room to work because the relay fuse box is right there in back of the bulb area? Any further help and or pictures or video of changing the bulb would certainly help. Thanks in advance!
I haven't had to replace the driver-side bulb, but the clearance for the passenger-side is just as tight due to the a/c compressor. It can be done!
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Dreyfus:
Thanks for your help (great directions posted earlier and the picture). Today I was able to remove the bulb and then put it all back together. Not much room to work with but your are correct -- it can be done!
Now, I've read all about the different D4S options including Ultinon, Garax, etc. and have concluded that the Philips 4DS 35W 4300k is probably the best option. I've checked online and it seems Amazon has the best price. They do say that they are Philips 4DS Xenon bulbs. However, they do not mention "XenEco" which is printed on the bulb base. Are these Philips all the same -- (XenEco) or is there a difference? Have you had experience buying these online and do you have any suggestions?
Thanks again for your help! My Lexus dealer wanted $705.00 for doing this!!!!!!
Thanks for your help (great directions posted earlier and the picture). Today I was able to remove the bulb and then put it all back together. Not much room to work with but your are correct -- it can be done!
Now, I've read all about the different D4S options including Ultinon, Garax, etc. and have concluded that the Philips 4DS 35W 4300k is probably the best option. I've checked online and it seems Amazon has the best price. They do say that they are Philips 4DS Xenon bulbs. However, they do not mention "XenEco" which is printed on the bulb base. Are these Philips all the same -- (XenEco) or is there a difference? Have you had experience buying these online and do you have any suggestions?
Thanks again for your help! My Lexus dealer wanted $705.00 for doing this!!!!!!