how to tell if my tranny is going out?
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how to tell if my tranny is going out?
I have a 1995 lexus es 300, when I first got the car it shifted great but I noticed it would clunk when shifting from first gear, It has about 199000 miles on it and I'm worried the transmission may be going out, I did a pan drain and filled it with clean fluid but I've noticed it will clunk when I shift into reverse and go to just under 2000 rpms before shifting from 1st gear, car usually shift okay but on startup it idles at about 1-2000rpms even if warmed up or cold, is this normal wear and tear or should I be worried? also I noticed it has been a little rough when going over bumps, could this be my suspension going bad? I also sometimes need to take my foot off the gas for it to shift into higher gears, could there be a problem with the speed sensor or does this sound like a trans problem? when I did the pan drain I didnt see any metal shavings and the car has been very well maintained, my mechanic took a look at it and it seems the radiator has some hairline cracks so it will need to be replaced eventually but other than that all of the parts were in good condition, any tips or advice is appreciated, thanks!
#2
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Does the clunk happen when you shift from reverse to drive, or while driving?
If so, it could be your engine mount,
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EYQSpkOpWw
If so, it could be your engine mount,
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EYQSpkOpWw
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when I shift from park or drive to reverse there is a clunk, so it could be the engine mount, however Im a little more worried about the poor shifting when Im actually driving
#4
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The high idling problem and the strange shifting, could be attributed to a misbehaving coolant temperature sensor or wiring issue, more so than an actual transmission problem.
You could also have a worn-out dog bone engine mount ( the one on top that looks like a dog bone)
You'll need an OBD II scanner (Not OBDII Reader) to see what the coolant sensor measures.
You could also have a worn-out dog bone engine mount ( the one on top that looks like a dog bone)
You'll need an OBD II scanner (Not OBDII Reader) to see what the coolant sensor measures.
Last edited by PFB; 03-08-14 at 08:30 AM.
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how would I be able to check something like the coolant sensor? would I need a mechanic to check the computer? and how much might a repair like that cost me?
#6
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Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have tools? Can you borrow an OBD II SCANNER?
Once it's determined that the coolant sensor or it's wiring are defective, the repair itself should take less than 1 hr, and the part is relatively inexpensive. Don't go however a change it blindly. A proper diagnosis is mandatory.
Another question for you. Based on your dash coolant temperature gauge, does your car reach and stay at normal operating temperatures?
Phil
Once it's determined that the coolant sensor or it's wiring are defective, the repair itself should take less than 1 hr, and the part is relatively inexpensive. Don't go however a change it blindly. A proper diagnosis is mandatory.
Another question for you. Based on your dash coolant temperature gauge, does your car reach and stay at normal operating temperatures?
Phil
Last edited by PFB; 03-08-14 at 07:57 AM.
#7
Clunk sounds like the rear bottom motor mount.
Easy way to tell is to take the front right tire off and look in for the motor mount.
If there are cracks on the rubber than its time for a new one.
Easy way to tell is to take the front right tire off and look in for the motor mount.
If there are cracks on the rubber than its time for a new one.
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I had noticed it seems to drive smoother on hot days and there are times when it will shift better or worse depending on the day, it doesnt seem consistent and I am wondering if this is the transmission or a bad sensor
#9
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Tachometer/speedometer fix
All of the SC400s and SC300s have the sticking tachometer as they age and later problems with the speedometer for the same reason. There is a step motor used to control these gauges that go bad. I had to have both replaced and it works like new now. Let's face it these cars are getting old ( mine is turning 24 in February) and weird thing start to wear out. I went to www.taninautoelectronix.com to get mine fixed and they did a great job. They are also a sponsor on this sight. Good luck
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I have a 93' that is doing the same thing. I think the #1 suspect is the rear mount and prob the hardest mount to replace in any car ever made..ugh, put it like this , you need to take it to a machine shop once you have torn you cv axle out just to have the bushing pressed out. F this , I'm buying american next time...even though I do love toyota
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Are you mechanically inclined? Do you have tools? Can you borrow an OBD II SCANNER?
Once it's determined that the coolant sensor or it's wiring are defective, the repair itself should take less than 1 hr, and the part is relatively inexpensive. Don't go however a change it blindly. A proper diagnosis is mandatory.
Another question for you. Based on your dash coolant temperature gauge, does your car reach and stay at normal operating temperatures?
Phil
Once it's determined that the coolant sensor or it's wiring are defective, the repair itself should take less than 1 hr, and the part is relatively inexpensive. Don't go however a change it blindly. A proper diagnosis is mandatory.
Another question for you. Based on your dash coolant temperature gauge, does your car reach and stay at normal operating temperatures?
Phil
I have the exact issue as the op but my temp gauge takes a ton of time getting up to operating temperature and even when it does it will go back down, I have a real hard 1-2 shift and erratic shifts as well, when I disconnect the temp sensor connector nothing happens, the idle doesn't even fluxuate but the cel does come on, the temp sensor is brand new. Could a bad thermostat cause harsh erratic shifting? Thank you
#12
Make sure to check for pending codes also. If you do not have scanner, go to any shop or store that reads for free like aamco, mineke, advance auto, etc. Random misfires also cause hard shifting and it takes time for registering a cel for this (not sure how many counts it needs). Look for p0300's, There might be others too but this one at least is a good indicator that is relatively workable.
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Make sure to check for pending codes also. If you do not have scanner, go to any shop or store that reads for free like aamco, mineke, advance auto, etc. Random misfires also cause hard shifting and it takes time for registering a cel for this (not sure how many counts it needs). Look for p0300's, There might be others too but this one at least is a good indicator that is relatively workable.
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