2000 ES300 ECU Pinout
#16
Here is a larger picture of the first one. Please let me know if I am not understanding you correctly.
#17
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Knock sensor hack for 1994 ES 300
Thanks PuReChaos - just in case someone else is searching like I was today, the pin-outs in your first set of pictures (post #9) are accurate for a 1994 Lexus ES 300 as well (same engine).
Funny how your "mistake" (posting the 1997 pin outs instead of the 2000) helped me out.
I did the hack on my son's 1994 ES 300 and it works like a charm. Much simpler than trying to do it under the hood - at least on the 1MZ-FE engine.
Thanks again.
#18
Thanks tylojuky for bumping this thread. I have a 99 ES with CEL for a knock sensor ( i believe for only one of them *fingers crossed*). I never knew of this hack and I'm definitely going to try attempt it this weekend.
QUESTION: Does the crank sensor require the same voltage as the knock sensor?
QUESTION: Does the crank sensor require the same voltage as the knock sensor?
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The knock sensor is, effectively, a microphone (a very specialized one). The crank sensor is, essentially, a magnet passing over a coil. At their most basic form, these are, technically, similar processes (moving a magnet over / through a coil). However, I doubt the voltage produced by the knock sensor is anywhere close to what can be produced by a crank sensor. This is a guess based on two observations:
(1) a crank has a lot more movement than a microphone and has an engine pushing so it can have a much larger/stronger magnet and there's plenty of room for a larger coil. Consequently, it would be easy to reliably produce significant voltage this way (compared to the tiny magnet and microscopic movement inside a piezo microphone).
(2) The knock sensors use shielded cables under the hood which makes me think the engineers were worried about electro-magnetic interference - implying the voltage carried is very low.
In any case, I doubt the signals look the same - even if you account for voltage differences.
All that is supposition based on education and experience in a completely different field. Someone who knows more specifics about the signals processed by these particular ECUs might read this and correct me.
Good luck.
#20
thanks for explaining how both work. i guess my question was asked wrong and was leading to me bypassing that too. i know the importance of both sensors (knock and crank) but I'm use to messing with 90's Honda's where crank/knock sensors can be bypassed easily to avoid CEL's. from what i gathered, I don't think the ECU is as picky with the brand of crank sensor as it is with the knock sensor. Plus its easier to access than the knock sensor, so replacing it probably makes more sense.
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thanks for explaining how both work. i guess my question was asked wrong and was leading to me bypassing that too. i know the importance of both sensors (knock and crank) but I'm use to messing with 90's Honda's where crank/knock sensors can be bypassed easily to avoid CEL's. from what i gathered, I don't think the ECU is as picky with the brand of crank sensor as it is with the knock sensor. Plus its easier to access than the knock sensor, so replacing it probably makes more sense.
I can't help with the crank sensor. I know nothing about what kind signal the ECU is expecting nor what it does if it gets something different. Hopefully someone here can chime in.
#22
No problem, I do appreciate you taking the time for responding to my questions. I realized that i need both knock sensors replaced, so this hack would do nothing for me
#23
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#24
Driver School Candidate
No problem. I performed this hack similar to the pictures on past #64 here. The difference is the use of spade connectors instead of a wire tap. I put a SINGLE female spade connector on BOTH knock sensor wires entering the ECU plug. Then a single male spade connector on EACH of the 2 wires coming from the two knock sensors. I'm glad I did that because I guessed wrong the first time on which incoming wire was connected to the good knock sensor. That was easily corrected by simply unplugging that male spade and plugging in the other one.
I don't know what you mean by that question. I don't think either type sensor "requires" voltage (rather, they produce voltage). Maybe I'm getting hung up on that word and completely missing your question (?)
The knock sensor is, effectively, a microphone (a very specialized one). The crank sensor is, essentially, a magnet passing over a coil. At their most basic form, these are, technically, similar processes (moving a magnet over / through a coil). However, I doubt the voltage produced by the knock sensor is anywhere close to what can be produced by a crank sensor. This is a guess based on two observations:
(1) a crank has a lot more movement than a microphone and has an engine pushing so it can have a much larger/stronger magnet and there's plenty of room for a larger coil. Consequently, it would be easy to reliably produce significant voltage this way (compared to the tiny magnet and microscopic movement inside a piezo microphone).
(2) The knock sensors use shielded cables under the hood which makes me think the engineers were worried about electro-magnetic interference - implying the voltage carried is very low.
In any case, I doubt the signals look the same - even if you account for voltage differences.
All that is supposition based on education and experience in a completely different field. Someone who knows more specifics about the signals processed by these particular ECUs might read this and correct me.
Good luck.
I don't know what you mean by that question. I don't think either type sensor "requires" voltage (rather, they produce voltage). Maybe I'm getting hung up on that word and completely missing your question (?)
The knock sensor is, effectively, a microphone (a very specialized one). The crank sensor is, essentially, a magnet passing over a coil. At their most basic form, these are, technically, similar processes (moving a magnet over / through a coil). However, I doubt the voltage produced by the knock sensor is anywhere close to what can be produced by a crank sensor. This is a guess based on two observations:
(1) a crank has a lot more movement than a microphone and has an engine pushing so it can have a much larger/stronger magnet and there's plenty of room for a larger coil. Consequently, it would be easy to reliably produce significant voltage this way (compared to the tiny magnet and microscopic movement inside a piezo microphone).
(2) The knock sensors use shielded cables under the hood which makes me think the engineers were worried about electro-magnetic interference - implying the voltage carried is very low.
In any case, I doubt the signals look the same - even if you account for voltage differences.
All that is supposition based on education and experience in a completely different field. Someone who knows more specifics about the signals processed by these particular ECUs might read this and correct me.
Good luck.
My car is 2002 Lexus ES 300 and has the same problem P0330 as someone here. I searched and found your post are interesting. I am grateful if you can give me a ECU pin out or tell me how I can find it. Thanks for your time .
#25
Pole Position
Below is the ECU pinout that shows knock sensor pins.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
#26
Driver School Candidate
Thank you for your picture. Would you like to explain more to me about the picture ? What exactly is position of knock sensor on ECU pin out ? Excuse me for being really unfamiliar with it !!
Thanks for your time.
#27
Pole Position
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