Timing Belt Needed After MAF Sensor Replaced?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: CT
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing Belt Needed After MAF Sensor Replaced?
Okay, this is a good one. Have 99 ES300
Got car diagnosed –codes came up:
P1354 – Dealer Code
P0420 – Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold – Bank 1
P0446 – Evap Control Vent Malfunction
P0330 – Knock Sensor Bank 2
Changed BOTH knock sensors. A couple of weeks before that, I got spark plugs changed (however, NONE of the wires were changed – only spark plugs).
Went back to mechanic for diagnosis. This is what came up:
Misfires
Misfires Cylinder 2
Misfires Cylinder 4
Misfires Cylinder 6
Catalytic Converter
Muffler
MAF sensor
Knock sensor
I think there were a couple more – it was crazy! I told mechanic sparks were changed, so check them again – that may address the misfires. I told him that the knock sensors were changed – don’t know why code came up.
He decided to change the MAF sensor – charged $150 for parts/labor.
He unplugged battery to reset codes. Only code that came up was “timing belt”.
I changed belt at 90k miles, the recommended change for my “Coach Edition”. I currently have 167k miles. The car runs a little better, with slight hesitation (was running very rough and bucking/hesitating prior to diagnosis). The idle is still high though. It is pointing to #2 (I don’t know what that means in RPMs).
Does it seem like I have a timing belt problem, or another sensor problem, possibly O2? By the way, the engine light and Trac lights are STILL on.
Appreciate your help/comments.
Got car diagnosed –codes came up:
P1354 – Dealer Code
P0420 – Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold – Bank 1
P0446 – Evap Control Vent Malfunction
P0330 – Knock Sensor Bank 2
Changed BOTH knock sensors. A couple of weeks before that, I got spark plugs changed (however, NONE of the wires were changed – only spark plugs).
Went back to mechanic for diagnosis. This is what came up:
Misfires
Misfires Cylinder 2
Misfires Cylinder 4
Misfires Cylinder 6
Catalytic Converter
Muffler
MAF sensor
Knock sensor
I think there were a couple more – it was crazy! I told mechanic sparks were changed, so check them again – that may address the misfires. I told him that the knock sensors were changed – don’t know why code came up.
He decided to change the MAF sensor – charged $150 for parts/labor.
He unplugged battery to reset codes. Only code that came up was “timing belt”.
I changed belt at 90k miles, the recommended change for my “Coach Edition”. I currently have 167k miles. The car runs a little better, with slight hesitation (was running very rough and bucking/hesitating prior to diagnosis). The idle is still high though. It is pointing to #2 (I don’t know what that means in RPMs).
Does it seem like I have a timing belt problem, or another sensor problem, possibly O2? By the way, the engine light and Trac lights are STILL on.
Appreciate your help/comments.
#2
Man, i really, really suggest you get a new mechanic, like NOW. There is no "timing belt" code that will come up. Whoever your mechanic is, is just some dude trying to scam you and overcharge you for a timing belt.
Now, after you find a new mechanic, you can go about accurately trying to figure out what is wrong.
If your car has misfires in 2-4-6... that is the front side bank of the engine. You can lift the hood, and the bank in front you see, with coil packs are the 2-4-6 cylinders.
Now, its hard to get a real accurate picture, because you have a mechanic that is a scammer trying to rake you over the coals. However, if half the info is accurate, I think it may be fuel injectors going bad on that bank.
A few years ago, my 96 had 1 bad fuel injector go out, which caused detonation and engine to stumble.
If you have bad fuel injectors it will obviously cause misfires. The knock sensors [which detect missfires or detonation] usually only show up, if your engine has a real bad misfires for a while.
Furthermore, you dont "pull the battery" to reset engine codes. Yes, that can reset them, but ANY real code reader, even the cheapest has a reset engine code functions, which clears the ecm. Then after you turn the engine back on, codes will come back [the real ones].
The absolute first thing you should do, is go to a totally different mechanic. Dont tell them what you previously had done, just get them to pull the codes. Kragen autoparts used to do it for free. Find a major auto part store in your area, and ask them if they will check your engine codes for free. After that come back and report what they say found, because whoever your current mechanic is, is a deadbeat, and who knows how many of the "codes" he pulled are real, or something hes just saying.
Now, after you find a new mechanic, you can go about accurately trying to figure out what is wrong.
If your car has misfires in 2-4-6... that is the front side bank of the engine. You can lift the hood, and the bank in front you see, with coil packs are the 2-4-6 cylinders.
Now, its hard to get a real accurate picture, because you have a mechanic that is a scammer trying to rake you over the coals. However, if half the info is accurate, I think it may be fuel injectors going bad on that bank.
A few years ago, my 96 had 1 bad fuel injector go out, which caused detonation and engine to stumble.
If you have bad fuel injectors it will obviously cause misfires. The knock sensors [which detect missfires or detonation] usually only show up, if your engine has a real bad misfires for a while.
Furthermore, you dont "pull the battery" to reset engine codes. Yes, that can reset them, but ANY real code reader, even the cheapest has a reset engine code functions, which clears the ecm. Then after you turn the engine back on, codes will come back [the real ones].
The absolute first thing you should do, is go to a totally different mechanic. Dont tell them what you previously had done, just get them to pull the codes. Kragen autoparts used to do it for free. Find a major auto part store in your area, and ask them if they will check your engine codes for free. After that come back and report what they say found, because whoever your current mechanic is, is a deadbeat, and who knows how many of the "codes" he pulled are real, or something hes just saying.
Last edited by mooseboy84; 11-27-11 at 12:35 AM.
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: CT
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing Belt Needed After MAF Sensor Replaced?
Funny you should say that, Moose.
I didn't believe for one moment that a timing belt code would come up. It doesn't sound right to me.
Anyway, with that said, I will find another mechanic. You're probably right about the fuel injectors. Something seems clogged to me.
I didn't believe for one moment that a timing belt code would come up. It doesn't sound right to me.
Anyway, with that said, I will find another mechanic. You're probably right about the fuel injectors. Something seems clogged to me.
#4
Assuming your car is throwing ridiculous amounts of random codes, It often times points to an electrical issue like a bad ECU. I would confirm your mechanic isn't a schmuck with a code reader and then go from there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lexlude
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
10
03-06-16 08:09 PM