Getting the Shimmies out of Tire/Wheel Balance
#16
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
[QUOTE=Och;8516369]Vibrations coming from an unbalanced tire can easily wreck havok on the rest of the drivetrain, and cause damage to driveshafts.
I didn't read you entire post, so you might have already covered this, but I'd like to make a suggestion to anyone concerned with potential vibrations.
1) Do not ever buy non factory rims. Aftermarket rims usually have a large hub bore, so they never sit tight on the hub, and are instead relying on the lugs to be centered - and as a result they are usually never properly centered, and putting extra stress on wheel studs. Constant vibrations are almost guaranteed.
I would say don't use non-hubcentric wheels designed for your vehicle application.
I didn't read you entire post, so you might have already covered this, but I'd like to make a suggestion to anyone concerned with potential vibrations.
1) Do not ever buy non factory rims. Aftermarket rims usually have a large hub bore, so they never sit tight on the hub, and are instead relying on the lugs to be centered - and as a result they are usually never properly centered, and putting extra stress on wheel studs. Constant vibrations are almost guaranteed.
I would say don't use non-hubcentric wheels designed for your vehicle application.
#17
Bold type highlights the root of the problem. As I stated in my previous post have the bare wheel tested for imbalance by spinning on the wheel balancer to see how imperfect it is. Obviously the shop did not fix the bend perfectly. Mounting the wheel on the right rear of the vehicle will minimize the vibration felt by the driver.
#19
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Thanks.
If the vibration is in the seat, it's more likely to be either in a rear wheel or, as you noted earlier, the driveshaft, rather than in a front wheel. As I said in the article (you may not have read that part), out-of-round tires can be made to balance perfectly, yet still cause shimmies or vibrations in the car. I'd check the runout on the rear tires. If possible, look at them on the balance machine while they are still spinning, and see if you notice any up/down hop or side-to-side motion. If so, it may be time for new tires if doing a 90 or 180 on them doesn't work. If the problem isn't traced to wheels or tires, then, yes, the driveshaft or suspension/steering components would be next on the list.
I’m having an issue with vibration in the seat at highway speeds over 60 mph not in the steering wheel really. I have a RWD and I bought my car with the dealership putting brand new crappy Nexus tires on it. I took it to a rim shop to inspect the rims and tires and there was a slight bend in one of the rims and he said the tires looked fine. They fixed the bend and balanced the wheel but that did not fix the issue of the vibration in the seat. I then took it to a local tire shop here to balance the tires and that still did not fix the issue. I then took it to a Firestone for a balance and that still did not fix the issue. Should I take it to a place to get it forced balanced? Could the tires just possibly be defective? Suggestions?
#20
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (1)
On the car highspeed balancing is a disappearing that can solve many problems.
The whole wheel/tire assembly is spun at varying speeds as high as 120mph in my experience.
This balances the assembly under actual operating configuration, taking into account brake rotors,axles,lugnuts, everything that spins with the wheel. This will cost more than twice as much as off the car balancing & the wheel must be replaced in the same position on the wheel studs if removed. This process is often needed for 80mph+.
Another good reason to use oem quality replacement rotors, axles, wheels,etc.
The whole wheel/tire assembly is spun at varying speeds as high as 120mph in my experience.
This balances the assembly under actual operating configuration, taking into account brake rotors,axles,lugnuts, everything that spins with the wheel. This will cost more than twice as much as off the car balancing & the wheel must be replaced in the same position on the wheel studs if removed. This process is often needed for 80mph+.
Another good reason to use oem quality replacement rotors, axles, wheels,etc.
#21
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
On the car highspeed balancing is a disappearing that can solve many problems.
The whole wheel/tire assembly is spun at varying speeds as high as 120mph in my experience.
This balances the assembly under actual operating configuration, taking into account brake rotors,axles,lugnuts, everything that spins with the wheel. This will cost more than twice as much as off the car balancing & the wheel must be replaced in the same position on the wheel studs if removed. This process is often needed for 80mph+.
The whole wheel/tire assembly is spun at varying speeds as high as 120mph in my experience.
This balances the assembly under actual operating configuration, taking into account brake rotors,axles,lugnuts, everything that spins with the wheel. This will cost more than twice as much as off the car balancing & the wheel must be replaced in the same position on the wheel studs if removed. This process is often needed for 80mph+.
#22
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Byprodrive
1) Do not ever buy non factory rims. Aftermarket rims usually have a large hub bore, so they never sit tight on the hub, and are instead relying on the lugs to be centered - and as a result they are usually never properly centered, and putting extra stress on wheel studs. Constant vibrations are almost guaranteed.
#23
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Och
2) Avoid low profile tires. If you must use low profile tires, don't buy cheap ones.
Invest in some Michelins - it's very rare to get a Michelin tire that is out of round.
3) Use tire shop that has proper equipment. I recommend shops that have Hunter 9700 balancing machine and mechanics that know what they are doing.
#24
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Byprodrive
The whole wheel/tire assembly is spun at varying speeds as high as 120mph in my experience.
#26
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Actually, although some systems may be off in the future where an all-electronic steer-by-wire system completely by-passes any mechanical connections, those systems, for the most part, don't yet exist in today's production cars. The only (close) exception is in one of the new Infiniti sedans (the Q50, I think), that has an optional electronic system that breaks a direct mechanical connection to the rack. But, today, even so-called "electric" steering systems simply drive the power steering pump with an electric motor instead of a hydraulic pump/fluid. Otherwise, the basic system is more or less the same as conventional hydraulic units....but usually with somewhat less steering/road feel. The electric steering-pumps are claimed to (slightly) increase fuel economy by causing less engine drag, but I'm not convinced.
#27
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Also, one thing I forgot to mention in my opening post. Some shops might try and convince you (as a Chrysler Service-Manager did with me years ago) that front-end shimmies are inevitable with FWD/AWD because of all of the spinning hardware feeding into the front wheels/tires (transmission, final-drive units/differentials, CVT joints, etc.....)
Don't fall for that line, That simply is not true, IF the drivetrain components were engineered and assembled properly.
Don't fall for that line, That simply is not true, IF the drivetrain components were engineered and assembled properly.
#29
The worst offender has been the last Generation Honda Odyssey.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-prob...vibration.html
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-prob...vibration.html
My 06 EX-L has vibratied since day one. Both dealer and Honda have refused to repair safety defect under new vehicle warranty after two wheel balancings failed! On one occasion vehicle vibrated so bad had to exit freeway for fear of losing control!
#30
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
I know that, in some jurisdictions with roller-wheel vehicle emissions tests (including my own D.C. area), car-based AWD vehicles are exempt by the EPA from the rollers because they can ruin the center-differentials. Instead, they just stick a sniffer-rod into the exhaust pipe and run the engine to 2000 RPM with the vehicle in neutral.
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