1999 SC300 NA-T build
01-13-15, 08:11 PM
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1999 SC300 NA-T build
I just recently picked up a 1999 SC300 2jzge vvti with 141000 miles. I've decided to go the na-t route. Im aiming for 500hp but I still want to keep my automatic transmission. My question is can I build up the auto trans to handle 500hp?
I've already purchase a T70 kit from cx racingTRB-KIT-2JZGE-T70-BLS-1
Still need to get there intercooler kit but other part I've gotten
255 walbro fuel pump
Tomei fuel regulator type L
other parts im looking at getting
Apexi Safc neo
hks intake
2.4 cometic head gasket
arp head studs
hks blow off valve
Bosch hi imp 550cc injectors
driftmotion 14mm fuel rail
tomei fuel pressure gauge
aem wideband
hks ti hi power muffler
hks turbo timer and boost controller
Koyo radiator
I know im missing some more stuff would love to get you guys opinion so please chime in.
I've already purchase a T70 kit from cx racingTRB-KIT-2JZGE-T70-BLS-1
Still need to get there intercooler kit but other part I've gotten
255 walbro fuel pump
Tomei fuel regulator type L
other parts im looking at getting
Apexi Safc neo
hks intake
2.4 cometic head gasket
arp head studs
hks blow off valve
Bosch hi imp 550cc injectors
driftmotion 14mm fuel rail
tomei fuel pressure gauge
aem wideband
hks ti hi power muffler
hks turbo timer and boost controller
Koyo radiator
I know im missing some more stuff would love to get you guys opinion so please chime in.
01-14-15, 09:17 AM
#2
Welcome to CL, glad to see you are interested in na-t, heopfully we can help you get boosted the right way.
First off, lets make sure you are aware you have a vvti engine with the weaker bottom end (rods.. etc..).
These motors don't like more than 400hp before they start to break. the better the tune, the more you can probably get away with but they are not "bullet proof" like the older motors are. you can very easily blow the bottom end with 500hp.
The auto transmission will probably not like much more than 350-400hp without a cooler and taking it easy for any extended period of time. 500 would prob destroy it quickly, I would recommend swapping to a manual or looking into a built tt auto etc..
taking a lookt at your build sheet, I think you are following a very older style of building an na-t.
mainly the headgasket 2.4mm is going to lower your compression alot, down to the 8 range and since you are limited on power/boost you can run, I would keep the compression higher and limit the boost, it will be a better power band. so go with a stock 2jz-gte headgasket (1.3mm) and that will lower you enough to run like 20 psi, but your motor won't probably take 20 psi before breaking the bottom end so you have to have a balance you see. a 2.4mm would let you run like 25+lbs of boost but if your motor can't make more than 400 without breaking then you just lost a bunch of spool and you can't take advantage or the more boost you can run.
next is I don't see any engine management. if you think a safc is going to work with a vvti n/a ecu, then you are in for a world of trouble. I wouldn't even turboing a n/a without changing the factory ecu for something better.
now 92-96 non vvti can change over to a tt ecu easily, but 97+ vvti you are in a different boat cause they only made a 2jzgte vvti ecu in japan, and I am not sure how plug and play it is or what wiring is needed to run one. definately the emissions port obd2 will not work with a jdm ecu.
other options are run an aem fic piggyback on the GE ecu, which is what alot of people do. if you wire it all up correctly that ecu can take over the fuel injectors and pull timing based on maps that you can tune. its not easy cause it works with the stock ecu but a competent tuner can make it happen and also keep the obd2 port working.
If you don;t care about the obd2 port/emissions, just get a standalone and have someone tune it and it will run just fine then. Tuning is the most important part of na-t. the actual installing everything is pretty easy in comparison to getting it to run right after you are done installing stuff.
also you don't need a 14mm fuel rail unless you want to run domestic injectors. just get an aftermarket 11mm one especially if you want to use the bosch import injectors above it. (import style is 11mm).
also about the fuel rail, vvti does not have a fuel return line from the rail and has the pressure regulator in the tank. I think you need to look up what to do with that, or just convert to a normal setup with a non-vvti fuel rail with a stock regulator on it and then run a return line and probably need to use an older tank or add the return line to your current tank. you do not need a aftermarket fuel regulator for those power goals, the stock one works perfectly. also the stock fuel rail can flow a bunch of fuel I would worry more about engine management then aftermarket parts that you don't really need.
good luck if you have any more questions feel free to ask I just wanted to get you some info to make a better choice about how you want to tackle na-t. starting with a vvti is difficult but very doable. alot of people also like to vvti 2jzgte swap those cars and just buy a harness which simplifies stuff, obd2 prob wont work still but it will be more drop in and connect but it all depends on what you like there are lots of options.
First off, lets make sure you are aware you have a vvti engine with the weaker bottom end (rods.. etc..).
These motors don't like more than 400hp before they start to break. the better the tune, the more you can probably get away with but they are not "bullet proof" like the older motors are. you can very easily blow the bottom end with 500hp.
The auto transmission will probably not like much more than 350-400hp without a cooler and taking it easy for any extended period of time. 500 would prob destroy it quickly, I would recommend swapping to a manual or looking into a built tt auto etc..
taking a lookt at your build sheet, I think you are following a very older style of building an na-t.
mainly the headgasket 2.4mm is going to lower your compression alot, down to the 8 range and since you are limited on power/boost you can run, I would keep the compression higher and limit the boost, it will be a better power band. so go with a stock 2jz-gte headgasket (1.3mm) and that will lower you enough to run like 20 psi, but your motor won't probably take 20 psi before breaking the bottom end so you have to have a balance you see. a 2.4mm would let you run like 25+lbs of boost but if your motor can't make more than 400 without breaking then you just lost a bunch of spool and you can't take advantage or the more boost you can run.
next is I don't see any engine management. if you think a safc is going to work with a vvti n/a ecu, then you are in for a world of trouble. I wouldn't even turboing a n/a without changing the factory ecu for something better.
now 92-96 non vvti can change over to a tt ecu easily, but 97+ vvti you are in a different boat cause they only made a 2jzgte vvti ecu in japan, and I am not sure how plug and play it is or what wiring is needed to run one. definately the emissions port obd2 will not work with a jdm ecu.
other options are run an aem fic piggyback on the GE ecu, which is what alot of people do. if you wire it all up correctly that ecu can take over the fuel injectors and pull timing based on maps that you can tune. its not easy cause it works with the stock ecu but a competent tuner can make it happen and also keep the obd2 port working.
If you don;t care about the obd2 port/emissions, just get a standalone and have someone tune it and it will run just fine then. Tuning is the most important part of na-t. the actual installing everything is pretty easy in comparison to getting it to run right after you are done installing stuff.
also you don't need a 14mm fuel rail unless you want to run domestic injectors. just get an aftermarket 11mm one especially if you want to use the bosch import injectors above it. (import style is 11mm).
also about the fuel rail, vvti does not have a fuel return line from the rail and has the pressure regulator in the tank. I think you need to look up what to do with that, or just convert to a normal setup with a non-vvti fuel rail with a stock regulator on it and then run a return line and probably need to use an older tank or add the return line to your current tank. you do not need a aftermarket fuel regulator for those power goals, the stock one works perfectly. also the stock fuel rail can flow a bunch of fuel I would worry more about engine management then aftermarket parts that you don't really need.
good luck if you have any more questions feel free to ask I just wanted to get you some info to make a better choice about how you want to tackle na-t. starting with a vvti is difficult but very doable. alot of people also like to vvti 2jzgte swap those cars and just buy a harness which simplifies stuff, obd2 prob wont work still but it will be more drop in and connect but it all depends on what you like there are lots of options.
01-14-15, 05:04 PM
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Ok well after getting your input. I've decided to go with a aem standalone looking into a built tt auto transmission also a oil cooler kit and supra tt headgasket non-vvti fuel rail with a stock regulator should I just rebuilt the bottom end to be safe?
01-14-15, 05:28 PM
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^ Listen to this guy!
Welcome to the forums man.
Theres not much to add onto what Ali SC3 already said, so im just going to re-iterate some things.
Honestly, if you want to run the stock bottom end, stock trans, and still have a reliable car... I would either seriously up your budget so you can build the engine and swap transmissions, or shoot for 300-350ish whp, which should hold up alright with the stock trans as long as you add a cooler and dont drive it like a complete moron haha.
regardless of what you do, you are going to need engine management (AEM, Haltech, etc.).
as far as headgasket goes, Id hold off on the 2.4 if you havent ordered it yet and either run a oem GTE head gasket or something like a Tomei/HKS/Greddy 2.0mm. Ive actually got a Tomei 2mm Id be happy to sell you. Either way, youre looking at roughly 9.5:1 with a oem GTE, and roughly 9:1 with a 2mm.
There is a ton of good information regarding NA-T setups on this forum and also supra forums. Best advice I could give would be to spend some time and read up on what other people are doing and what is/isnt working for them. Best of luck!
Welcome to the forums man.
Theres not much to add onto what Ali SC3 already said, so im just going to re-iterate some things.
Honestly, if you want to run the stock bottom end, stock trans, and still have a reliable car... I would either seriously up your budget so you can build the engine and swap transmissions, or shoot for 300-350ish whp, which should hold up alright with the stock trans as long as you add a cooler and dont drive it like a complete moron haha.
regardless of what you do, you are going to need engine management (AEM, Haltech, etc.).
as far as headgasket goes, Id hold off on the 2.4 if you havent ordered it yet and either run a oem GTE head gasket or something like a Tomei/HKS/Greddy 2.0mm. Ive actually got a Tomei 2mm Id be happy to sell you. Either way, youre looking at roughly 9.5:1 with a oem GTE, and roughly 9:1 with a 2mm.
There is a ton of good information regarding NA-T setups on this forum and also supra forums. Best advice I could give would be to spend some time and read up on what other people are doing and what is/isnt working for them. Best of luck!
01-15-15, 02:25 AM
#5
Welcome niño, and Congradulation
Ali SC3 said it all, I'm going through it right now with my 99 sc300 same year as yours.
If you are looking for 500hp, you will need to build the bottom end of a vvti engine 97 and greater 2jz-ge if you want to have a reliable vehicle. The automatic tranny same thing it will have to be built up to take the power your looking for and be reliable including torque convertor.
Good luck, and as CaptianDan indicated do lots of research.
Ali SC3 said it all, I'm going through it right now with my 99 sc300 same year as yours.
If you are looking for 500hp, you will need to build the bottom end of a vvti engine 97 and greater 2jz-ge if you want to have a reliable vehicle. The automatic tranny same thing it will have to be built up to take the power your looking for and be reliable including torque convertor.
Good luck, and as CaptianDan indicated do lots of research.
01-15-15, 10:38 AM
#6
yeah so either keep the vvti bottom and just limit to 350-400hp on a good tune, stock trans should fair alright with a cooler.....OR
if you are pulling the motor just drop in a non vvti bottom end and tt headgasket and throw your vvti head and everything back on it. this is usually much much cheaper than a re-build if you can find a clean non -vvti GE block. you can get one from an old gs300 even just swap your oil pan onto it. then you should be good for 600-700hp with that headgasket and setup. whole 2jzge engine can be had for $500 or less so its something to consider and you get all the extra parts you are missing that you need. the vvti can be tuned on the aem but its tricky, you can also consider just using the non vvti head and just drop that whole motor in, it will have the right fuel rail and regulator etc etc... there are lots of ways to go about it, IMO its not worth re-building the bottom end machine shop plus parts and labor adds up really quick and then still its only as reliable as the person that built it.
I will take an unmolested 2jzge block out of an auto sc300 or gs300 any day and just slap a headgasket and turbo on it and have much more money left to spend on the turbo manifold etc... If you are not shooting for 800+whp then there is no need to "build" a non-vvti 2jzge and its much easier to swap blocks then have your vvti one "built"
IF you use the vvti head though, be aware you must use a standalone or the stock ecu + piggyback as it only has one cam sensor on the head. if you use a non vvti head you have a few more options but having vvti is nice it will spool better when tuned.
if you are pulling the motor just drop in a non vvti bottom end and tt headgasket and throw your vvti head and everything back on it. this is usually much much cheaper than a re-build if you can find a clean non -vvti GE block. you can get one from an old gs300 even just swap your oil pan onto it. then you should be good for 600-700hp with that headgasket and setup. whole 2jzge engine can be had for $500 or less so its something to consider and you get all the extra parts you are missing that you need. the vvti can be tuned on the aem but its tricky, you can also consider just using the non vvti head and just drop that whole motor in, it will have the right fuel rail and regulator etc etc... there are lots of ways to go about it, IMO its not worth re-building the bottom end machine shop plus parts and labor adds up really quick and then still its only as reliable as the person that built it.
I will take an unmolested 2jzge block out of an auto sc300 or gs300 any day and just slap a headgasket and turbo on it and have much more money left to spend on the turbo manifold etc... If you are not shooting for 800+whp then there is no need to "build" a non-vvti 2jzge and its much easier to swap blocks then have your vvti one "built"
IF you use the vvti head though, be aware you must use a standalone or the stock ecu + piggyback as it only has one cam sensor on the head. if you use a non vvti head you have a few more options but having vvti is nice it will spool better when tuned.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-15-15 at 10:41 AM.
05-07-15, 10:48 PM
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I'm going the na-t way myself. Just need to start buying stuff. Still selling that hg? I'll buy. Also. I know everyone says standalone but I have a 2jzgte non-vvti ec. That's good enough right?
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05-08-15, 12:29 PM
#8
Like everyone else has said those rods are your limiting factor on the build. As for the the trans I suggest talking to Lawrence at LSfabrication in Santa Rosa, CA. He did a couple things on a 98+ SC transmission that is holding up very well over 500HP.
depends on the parts you have and your goals.
depends on the parts you have and your goals.
05-08-15, 11:40 PM
#9
There is a write up to wire in a 2jzgte VVTI ECU from an Aristo, its cheaper than getting a full standalone, and 500whp is cake for that ECU and a fuel controller or piggy back.
The easiest route is what Ali mentioned. Get an pre 1998 2jzge bottom end and re-use the top end. Then buy a cheap Aritsto auto trans, build it, swap out the valve body and gear shifter like what Lawrence did here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ire-build.html
Or, you can do what I am doing currently. Get an Aristo 2jzgte VVTi complete motor/trans, swap it in using the factory harness, and rewire just the engine sensors into an AEM, or equivalent, and the factory ECU will control the trans and everything else, while the AEM takes care of the tuning. This route will cost a bit more.
The easiest route is what Ali mentioned. Get an pre 1998 2jzge bottom end and re-use the top end. Then buy a cheap Aritsto auto trans, build it, swap out the valve body and gear shifter like what Lawrence did here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ire-build.html
Or, you can do what I am doing currently. Get an Aristo 2jzgte VVTi complete motor/trans, swap it in using the factory harness, and rewire just the engine sensors into an AEM, or equivalent, and the factory ECU will control the trans and everything else, while the AEM takes care of the tuning. This route will cost a bit more.
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