MN 2JZ-GTE/R154 Swap
#77
#78
Pole Position
Thread Starter
This is true, I had forgotten about that. I haven't purchased the suspension yet, I am still deciding on the pieces that I need. So I will wait until I have that to know how things fit and re-measure then. Who knows maybe I wont need anything then.
#79
Pole Position
Thread Starter
After looking at things after you guys noted that once the suspension is upgraded the shocks and in this case bags will free up some room. I think I might not have to get a new adapter/spacer. I might just need to shave, pull and roll my fenders and I will be fine. So I cant wait to get the suspension and finally know how things will fit for sure, if things end up working out the ... We will just have to wait and see.
#80
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
After looking at things after you guys noted that once the suspension is upgraded the shocks and in this case bags will free up some room. I think I might not have to get a new adapter/spacer. I might just need to shave, pull and roll my fenders and I will be fine. So I cant wait to get the suspension and finally know how things will fit for sure, if things end up working out the ... We will just have to wait and see.
#81
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Hate to burst your bubble but I don't think a pull is going to work. The most you can fit on a stockish fender (not a major pull) is around 11.5". So that means you're looking at a 1.5" pull. The most inward wheel I have seen is an 19x11 +47 (car had coilovers). That translates to a 13 +22 if you push the other 2 inches out. Your wheel is a +62 right now without spacers. You said 34 mm spacer so right now you're at +28. The coilover is going to be smaller but it's not going to be that much smaller. If you went to a +22 like my example earlier, that would equate to an half inch smaller spring which sounds reasonable. I think you can go closer than the +28 you're at, but not enough to get away with a pull, especially with that size tire. Maybe an extreme duck bill pull will work..... I think another 10 mm in might be a resonable expectation after switching to coilovers.
Correct, this is why I said we will see. Once I have all of the suspension pieces I will know then what will be needed. Thanks for the info, I just know that I will know for sure then.
#82
#83
Instructor
iTrader: (16)
No. Keep it an 11 and add a 2 inch spacer (50.8 mm). You offset would be an 11 (-3). We're adding width to get to an effective 13 so in this case you only add half the offset. So it's a 13 (+22).
To make it simpler, let's say the wheel was an 11 (0). That means 5.5 inches is on each half of the centerline. A 13 (0) is 6.5 on each side of the centerline. So on the fender side the 13 is sticking 1 inch further. For them to stick out the same distance on the fender side (same effective offset) we would need to push the 13 (the whole wheel) back in by an inch or 25.4 mm). The width would would remain 13 but the offset would be 13 (+25).
To make it simpler, let's say the wheel was an 11 (0). That means 5.5 inches is on each half of the centerline. A 13 (0) is 6.5 on each side of the centerline. So on the fender side the 13 is sticking 1 inch further. For them to stick out the same distance on the fender side (same effective offset) we would need to push the 13 (the whole wheel) back in by an inch or 25.4 mm). The width would would remain 13 but the offset would be 13 (+25).
#84
No. Keep it an 11 and add a 2 inch spacer (50.8 mm). You offset would be an 11 (-3). We're adding width to get to an effective 13 so in this case you only add half the offset. So it's a 13 (+22).
To make it simpler, let's say the wheel was an 11 (0). That means 5.5 inches is on each half of the centerline. A 13 (0) is 6.5 on each side of the centerline. So on the fender side the 13 is sticking 1 inch further. For them to stick out the same distance on the fender side (same effective offset) we would need to push the 13 (the whole wheel) back in by an inch or 25.4 mm). The width would would remain 13 but the offset would be 13 (+25).
To make it simpler, let's say the wheel was an 11 (0). That means 5.5 inches is on each half of the centerline. A 13 (0) is 6.5 on each side of the centerline. So on the fender side the 13 is sticking 1 inch further. For them to stick out the same distance on the fender side (same effective offset) we would need to push the 13 (the whole wheel) back in by an inch or 25.4 mm). The width would would remain 13 but the offset would be 13 (+25).
#85
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I started on some work that I have been putting off for quite some time, I finally decided to start.
All for now I need to remove the crank pulley to continue. My kids where going crazy to go outside so it was time to cover things up and continue another day. Now for the wheels I am still messing around with things and deciding on which direction I am going to do with them fenders. I have contemplated SerialNine fenders, BlackMagician fenders but modify them to my liking or 949garage fenders. I will know soon enough. That's all for this update folks.
All for now I need to remove the crank pulley to continue. My kids where going crazy to go outside so it was time to cover things up and continue another day. Now for the wheels I am still messing around with things and deciding on which direction I am going to do with them fenders. I have contemplated SerialNine fenders, BlackMagician fenders but modify them to my liking or 949garage fenders. I will know soon enough. That's all for this update folks.
#87
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yeah I am still undecided on all of those. As time goes by I will know which one I like the most. What I will want to know is what I need to modify body wise to install and fit the kit.
#88
Wish you were closer to me I work at a bodyshop and could give you some pointers along the way the cool thing about the serialnine is its full replacement fenders so you just have to worry about the rear. I prefer it molded don't like when they just river it on. Btw I'm vizionautosport on IG the guy that just got the aristo swap
#89
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: wa
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Can you show some pictures of how you mounted the sc300 handbrake? What cables are you using? Im really interested in this. I have a gs300 that I want to use for drifting.
#90
Pole Position
Thread Starter
IS300 E-Brake handle without the cable attached
IS300 with cable attached
SC300 E-Brake handle
SC300 E-Brake handle, see the two mounting points between the IS and the SC E-Brake handles.
Pics of other 2GS owners who have done this.
THESE ARE PICTURES I FOUND ON HOW SOME PEOPLE INSTALLED THE EBRAKES. I have both the SC300 and IS300 ebrakes. I think the SC300 is easier to install because is a straight ebrake
I hope this helps you, so you get get yours installed.
Check this guy out.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post8487823
Last edited by ELLeon; 04-04-15 at 11:44 PM.