2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
#3691
oh shoot .. you are right, my bad. The FPR is aeromotive as clearly written on the regulator
I guess with 8 2jzgte toys .. hard to keep up with the parts that are in them , lmaol. Every body I know says I am crazy . Hard enough to maintain one 2jzgte car and having more than one gets expensive and having 8 is insane . I have lost my mind as some friends who comes around says.
I guess with 8 2jzgte toys .. hard to keep up with the parts that are in them , lmaol. Every body I know says I am crazy . Hard enough to maintain one 2jzgte car and having more than one gets expensive and having 8 is insane . I have lost my mind as some friends who comes around says.
#3692
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Atlanta
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oh shoot .. you are right, my bad. The FPR is aeromotive as clearly written on the regulator
I guess with 8 2jzgte toys .. hard to keep up with the parts that are in them , lmaol. Every body I know says I am crazy . Hard enough to maintain one 2jzgte car and having more than one gets expensive and having 8 is insane . I have lost my mind as some friends who comes around says.
I guess with 8 2jzgte toys .. hard to keep up with the parts that are in them , lmaol. Every body I know says I am crazy . Hard enough to maintain one 2jzgte car and having more than one gets expensive and having 8 is insane . I have lost my mind as some friends who comes around says.
they didn't lie lol
#3693
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (16)
Since I have them , I might as well use them . I hate pushing buttons just to cycle around the different displays of a CAN Display /Logger. Though am thinking of reinstalling the ProEFI Display logger so I don't misplace it. I am bad about misplacing items that I don't use .
#3694
no regrets though ... i love having these 2jzgte toys . They always put a smile on my face .
Once I have installed the stroker motor for Black Pearl and I have the Motec ECU for it , I will do more research on them and probably will look into daisy chaining 4 of those BTI gauges . The Motec Dash is over $2500 so I will see what are my other alternatives if I won't go with the Motec Dash.. I will let you know buddy.
What car project have you been up to these days ?
What car project have you been up to these days ?
Last edited by gerrb; 07-20-16 at 04:33 AM.
#3695
There are a number of questions I received through PM which I will rather answer through a post here so it can help others ...
1) Is the Engine Coolant Temperature same as that of the Engine Oil Temperature ?
Remember these are two different liquids , each with their own characteristics . They won't necessarily be the same but very close . I just came from a very short trip just to warm up the Old Man Tan . Here are the coolant and engine temperature . Oil is around 195F and coolant is around 180F
2) What is suppose to be the Vaccum of a 2JZGTE in idle .
Vaccuum varies a lot depending on how your engine is built . Is it all stock or does it have many aftermarket parts ? Usually a stock 2jzgte will be -16 to -22 inHg. Mine is -14 inHg just because I have +1 size intake and exhaust valves ,and I have 264 cams .You see my vacuum on the first gauge on the left .
3) What is suppose to be the fuel pressure at idle ?
Fuel pressure should be set while engine is off .. no vacuum or boost . The fuel pressure for the injectors we use on a 2jzgte is set around 43.5psi . As you will see on the third gauge from the left on the previous picture, mine is at 31psi at idle . And if you take into consideration the vacuum which is -14 inHG ... my fuel pressure is around 43-45psi . It is measure right before the fuel goes out of the fuel pressure regulator. I even have a fuel pressure sensor / gauge right before the huge fuel filter. That tells me if my fuel filter is getting clogged or my pump is not pumping properly anymore.
4) Where is the best place to get oil pressure ?
You have to get it at the place where it matters most so you get to know how much oil pressure is going through nthe engine ? Your oil pressure will dictate if places like bearings are getting the lubrication they badly needed. At the moment, since this car , old man tan, is actually still technically on break-in , I am trying to monitor the oil pressure before the oil filter and after the oil filter . It gives me an idea how much pressure drop is caused by my oil relocation, filter and external oil cooler.
here is the pressure before the oil filter
The 4th gauge from the left gives me an idea of my oil pressure that is now going back into the block. As you can tell , there is a pressure drop . I have to note that I still have the stock oil cooler on top of the aftermarket oil cooler and relocation stuff . The stock oil cooler actually presents quite a pressure drop. So you have to watch well your oil pressure inside your engine. The info you provide your aftermarket ECU , in my case ProEFI , will take care or protect your investments (engine ) ... telling the ECU what to do in case let's say the oil pressure is not within the parameters you have set.
5) What does the Quick Spool Valve do and how is it installed or controlled ?
The QSV routes all your exhaust gas to half of the turbine housing . That means all that energy is concentrated and makes that turbo spool faster . I do control the QSV with a MAC valve which is essentially same as a boost solenoid. Then the MAC valve is activated by the ProEFI but can be activated by a hobbs switch ( if you don't have an aftermarket ecu with inputs) which is basically a switch that closes depending on the boost level you set. The QSV starts to open up at around 5.5 psi and is fully open at around 11 psi . Opening it up at the right time is crucial so you take advantage of quick spool down low where we spend most of our time driving and more power at higher boost level . This turbo where it is installed is a PT-6870 CEA which is one of the best spooling +1000rwhp turbo. But with the QSV , my damn turbo spool is just darn even a lot better.
Here you will see the MAC valve used to control my Quick Spool Valve
Controlling boost is done by another boost solenoid and activated also by the ProEFI .
1) Is the Engine Coolant Temperature same as that of the Engine Oil Temperature ?
Remember these are two different liquids , each with their own characteristics . They won't necessarily be the same but very close . I just came from a very short trip just to warm up the Old Man Tan . Here are the coolant and engine temperature . Oil is around 195F and coolant is around 180F
2) What is suppose to be the Vaccum of a 2JZGTE in idle .
Vaccuum varies a lot depending on how your engine is built . Is it all stock or does it have many aftermarket parts ? Usually a stock 2jzgte will be -16 to -22 inHg. Mine is -14 inHg just because I have +1 size intake and exhaust valves ,and I have 264 cams .You see my vacuum on the first gauge on the left .
3) What is suppose to be the fuel pressure at idle ?
Fuel pressure should be set while engine is off .. no vacuum or boost . The fuel pressure for the injectors we use on a 2jzgte is set around 43.5psi . As you will see on the third gauge from the left on the previous picture, mine is at 31psi at idle . And if you take into consideration the vacuum which is -14 inHG ... my fuel pressure is around 43-45psi . It is measure right before the fuel goes out of the fuel pressure regulator. I even have a fuel pressure sensor / gauge right before the huge fuel filter. That tells me if my fuel filter is getting clogged or my pump is not pumping properly anymore.
4) Where is the best place to get oil pressure ?
You have to get it at the place where it matters most so you get to know how much oil pressure is going through nthe engine ? Your oil pressure will dictate if places like bearings are getting the lubrication they badly needed. At the moment, since this car , old man tan, is actually still technically on break-in , I am trying to monitor the oil pressure before the oil filter and after the oil filter . It gives me an idea how much pressure drop is caused by my oil relocation, filter and external oil cooler.
here is the pressure before the oil filter
The 4th gauge from the left gives me an idea of my oil pressure that is now going back into the block. As you can tell , there is a pressure drop . I have to note that I still have the stock oil cooler on top of the aftermarket oil cooler and relocation stuff . The stock oil cooler actually presents quite a pressure drop. So you have to watch well your oil pressure inside your engine. The info you provide your aftermarket ECU , in my case ProEFI , will take care or protect your investments (engine ) ... telling the ECU what to do in case let's say the oil pressure is not within the parameters you have set.
5) What does the Quick Spool Valve do and how is it installed or controlled ?
The QSV routes all your exhaust gas to half of the turbine housing . That means all that energy is concentrated and makes that turbo spool faster . I do control the QSV with a MAC valve which is essentially same as a boost solenoid. Then the MAC valve is activated by the ProEFI but can be activated by a hobbs switch ( if you don't have an aftermarket ecu with inputs) which is basically a switch that closes depending on the boost level you set. The QSV starts to open up at around 5.5 psi and is fully open at around 11 psi . Opening it up at the right time is crucial so you take advantage of quick spool down low where we spend most of our time driving and more power at higher boost level . This turbo where it is installed is a PT-6870 CEA which is one of the best spooling +1000rwhp turbo. But with the QSV , my damn turbo spool is just darn even a lot better.
Here you will see the MAC valve used to control my Quick Spool Valve
Controlling boost is done by another boost solenoid and activated also by the ProEFI .
Last edited by gerrb; 07-28-16 at 02:07 PM.
#3696
Gerry, you're a rare breed, I don't know anyone accept for you who installs two oil pressure gauges so you can get a delta reading. My hats off to you.
Best regards on your projects
Best regards on your projects
#3697
I love to verify things myself . Whether a particular part does help or not in my setup. The only way is to measure things before and after. Exactly the reason I measure IAT , Oil Pressure , Fuel Pressure , Oil Temp of engine and transmission and others in different locations. That will help me find out how effective a certain product is and not just go with the hype or just because it is used by a lot of people. I can always remove one sensor eventually once I have proven that a part is doing its job .
For the Old Man Tan , I can't make up my mind on what color I want it painted. My kids tell me that beige / sandstone has to go . Don't we always change our mind ? Even if I already have the Black Pearl SC , I am leaning to get it painted also black or maybe white this time . I always loved the black color :
Last edited by gerrb; 08-02-16 at 05:37 AM.
#3698
Not all catch cans are same . Some have baffles inside to promote condensation so liquid can stay in the can and the gas either comes out through a filter or goes back to the turbo intake . I love to recirculate those gasses back into the turbo intake just like it had been done in a stock TT 2jzgte setup . For the reason that the vacuum or pulling effect of the turbo compressor helps evacuate the crankcase pressure. That helps a lot in the avoidance of seals being blown.
However , there is something to note , with that pressure comes oil or even condensation from inside the engine . You do not want the liquid to get back into the intake tracks. This is where a lot of catch can differs . Some are mere catch can meaning will catch the liquid and let the pressure gets out through a filter. Some will have baffles inside the catch can , will help separate liquid from gas and let the gas pass through the baffles and back to the intake.
This is the very reason why the well manufactured catch can can get expensive. There are ways , IMHO , to make a non expensive catch can somehow isolate liquid from gas.On the Old Man Tan SC, I used an old greddy catch can and stuffed it with stainless scouring pads to help in the separation of liquid from gasses. It has to be a complete solid pad .. not pieces that can be pulled by the turbo compressor. It has to be stainless so it doesn't promote rust.
4
However , there is something to note , with that pressure comes oil or even condensation from inside the engine . You do not want the liquid to get back into the intake tracks. This is where a lot of catch can differs . Some are mere catch can meaning will catch the liquid and let the pressure gets out through a filter. Some will have baffles inside the catch can , will help separate liquid from gas and let the gas pass through the baffles and back to the intake.
This is the very reason why the well manufactured catch can can get expensive. There are ways , IMHO , to make a non expensive catch can somehow isolate liquid from gas.On the Old Man Tan SC, I used an old greddy catch can and stuffed it with stainless scouring pads to help in the separation of liquid from gasses. It has to be a complete solid pad .. not pieces that can be pulled by the turbo compressor. It has to be stainless so it doesn't promote rust.
4
Last edited by gerrb; 08-05-16 at 05:31 AM.
#3702
yeah , there was a time I was tempted to approach that young lady and ask if she was willing to sell it . I don't think she knows what she has. The car doesn't seem to be well taken cared of. It was probably me whom you saw if it was on Davenport . Well, you know why I will be in that area .
If you see that woman again try asking her if she wants to sell the car ... call me if you aren't ready to buy it and she is willing to sell it .
If you see that woman again try asking her if she wants to sell the car ... call me if you aren't ready to buy it and she is willing to sell it .