2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
#3136
We all have different ways of using our cars. I don't abuse my cars like the way they are used on the drag strip though I drive them really hard every now and then trying to make use of that power. I always wanted to try the Built ATF tranny if it will withstand +1000rwhp on the dyno so I am mating my unused ATF built tranny on the current engine am working on which is more than capable of dipping into the 1000rwhp with its PT-6870 turbo and Direct Port Nitrous.
I have pushed the ATF built tranny well to the 850rwhp level I was told by ATF to hold it up to with my Red Mamba One . I have the feeling though it will survive +1000rwhp on the dyno at least. I will be pretty happy if it does since that kind of power will never be used on the streets. In that way I can stick with the ATF built tranny on this sleeper car instead of doing a lot of work trying to deal with the 4L80e I already got built . The built A340e is a bolt on where as I for see a lot of work and more parts purchases for the 4L80e trans setup which I am trying to avoid for now.
So I am mating this transmission today together with a 3500 stall torque converter on the current engine I am working on.
I have pushed the ATF built tranny well to the 850rwhp level I was told by ATF to hold it up to with my Red Mamba One . I have the feeling though it will survive +1000rwhp on the dyno at least. I will be pretty happy if it does since that kind of power will never be used on the streets. In that way I can stick with the ATF built tranny on this sleeper car instead of doing a lot of work trying to deal with the 4L80e I already got built . The built A340e is a bolt on where as I for see a lot of work and more parts purchases for the 4L80e trans setup which I am trying to avoid for now.
So I am mating this transmission today together with a 3500 stall torque converter on the current engine I am working on.
Last edited by gerrb; 08-22-15 at 05:40 AM.
#3138
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (13)
Same reason I steered clean of the 4l80e. Yes its a great trans but ALOT of work/hammering needs to be done in the tunnel to make it fit properly. I went with the th400 instead and a 3.26 rear end which shouldn't be bad to drive on the highway.
As always Gerry, great work!
As always Gerry, great work!
#3139
Sorry my friend, I really want to try the damn ATF trans on an engine that will dip into 1000rwhp . Wanted to see if it will hold on . My other two cars with the ATF trans do not have a big turbo to try the trans at 1000rwhp.
Richard - thanks and let me know how your TH400 perform on the highway / streets. Was there any tunnel beating or massaging with the TH400 ? Tried fitting the damn 4L80e , indeed needs a lot of beating on that tunnel.
Same reason I steered clean of the 4l80e. Yes its a great trans but ALOT of work/hammering needs to be done in the tunnel to make it fit properly. I went with the th400 instead and a 3.26 rear end which shouldn't be bad to drive on the highway.
As always Gerry, great work!
As always Gerry, great work!
#3140
Now that the ATF tranny is mated to the GTE setup , I would have to wait for my direct port nitrous nozzles and other nitrous related parts so I can install them on my intake plus my SP Quick Spool Valve so I can install the PT-6870 on the exhaust manifold.
Meanwhile , I thought of doing something different for my 1997 SC300 5 speed shell temporarily . I want the best drivetrain for it , a VVTi 3.4 Stroker High compression setup with a 6speed v160 . I already have a new V160 & 6speed Diff which I bought before they were discontinued . While I am collecting GTE stroker parts , to get it running for now, I might as well build an NA-T since I have 3 good 2JZGE short blocks,, a couple of GE heads and other parts to complete an engine, . Hone the block, install new pistons rings, rod bearings and ALL ARP hardware (mains , rods and head studs) and a GTE head gasket .. then call it a day with 9.3 compression and see where it will bring me. After all I got all those parts already. It is a matter of going through the assembly process.
Today to keep myself busy, am tearing a part the engine I took out of the SC shell Chris picked up last week so I can take every thing I can make use for the NA-T setup.
Ali - here I come buddy , building an NA-T. You have always encouraged me to build one ...
Meanwhile , I thought of doing something different for my 1997 SC300 5 speed shell temporarily . I want the best drivetrain for it , a VVTi 3.4 Stroker High compression setup with a 6speed v160 . I already have a new V160 & 6speed Diff which I bought before they were discontinued . While I am collecting GTE stroker parts , to get it running for now, I might as well build an NA-T since I have 3 good 2JZGE short blocks,, a couple of GE heads and other parts to complete an engine, . Hone the block, install new pistons rings, rod bearings and ALL ARP hardware (mains , rods and head studs) and a GTE head gasket .. then call it a day with 9.3 compression and see where it will bring me. After all I got all those parts already. It is a matter of going through the assembly process.
Today to keep myself busy, am tearing a part the engine I took out of the SC shell Chris picked up last week so I can take every thing I can make use for the NA-T setup.
Ali - here I come buddy , building an NA-T. You have always encouraged me to build one ...
Last edited by gerrb; 08-22-15 at 07:37 PM.
#3142
hahaha , let me see if I can get close as good or nice as yours with this NA-T setup
Started cleaning the filthy intake manifold. Outside is clean but the damn inside is filthy as hell -> oil, grime, dirt and what not . I need to get them soaked over night so it is easier to clean them inside .
Well, outside is at least clean after a lot of wire brushing with gas.
As soon as my back started hurting caused by cleaning that filthy intake I stopped and instead started cleaning the engine bay of my daily driver and will wash it before the day ends ..
Started cleaning the filthy intake manifold. Outside is clean but the damn inside is filthy as hell -> oil, grime, dirt and what not . I need to get them soaked over night so it is easier to clean them inside .
Well, outside is at least clean after a lot of wire brushing with gas.
As soon as my back started hurting caused by cleaning that filthy intake I stopped and instead started cleaning the engine bay of my daily driver and will wash it before the day ends ..
#3145
Get all the ARP hardware in place so 500-700 can be safely supported by the internals and get the boost parts. Plus COP conversion since I have coils , 2jzgte ECU and the igniter . BTW , my GE heads are all non vvti , I wish I had a vvti.. hahaha.. so I will deal with what I have. On second thoughts, non vvti short blocks have stronger rods so they are better. So I will deal with the 9.3 compression for now.
Blocks are already separated from the head so I thought of installing ARP head studs and gte head gasket. I got all those . Just have to get the whole thing be put together so my 97 sc300 would run soon while I am waiting for vvti and stroker parts for it . Well that will take time since the stroker crank is so pricey and will just wait for a good deal to come by if ever . Got already the Carillo HD Rods with carr bolts, 10:1 CP pistons for a 3.4 stroke, GTE block and some accessories like new oil pump, water pump and other stuff for that ultimate built for the 97 sc300 5 speed.
Managed to clean up the whole intake part . Put everything together for now so I don't loose parts and be looking for them
Fedex also just delivered the JDM GTE wiring I bought off SF so I can do the harness for my +1000rwhp GTE old man's tan sleeper.
Last edited by gerrb; 08-25-15 at 12:29 PM.
#3147
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
oh yeah you definitely want to use a non vvti block, no point in starting with the vvti stuff the head/block/coils are the only good things on those.
I have played around with the idea of swapping a vvti head on mine some day (is300 engines and heads are easy to come by).
Only thing I would mention before you get there is the vvti GE head only has one cam sensor spot on it, so that generally means aftermarket ecu and wasted spark (IS300 coils) once you install a GTE crank wheel (12 tooth) on a GE vvti oil pump (pause for a breath... lol). also you would need to install a GTE non vvti cam that only has 1 tooth on it cause the vvti cams have 3 teeth on them for the cam sensor (they really complicated it), or maybe there is a better way to get around that.
so really starting to wonder how people are setting up these vvti heads with the ecu and an actual vvti cam, are they removing 2 of the teeth on the vvti cam to make it work the old way with a 12 tooth crank wheel and wasted spark, or a completely different approach when not using the stock ecu. I think the gte vvti is setup the same way as the ge vvti head in terms of cams and sensors. maybe you know more on the vvti side of things but I haven't messed with it much due to those complications... yet =)
The vvti's comes with a 36-2 trigger wheel normally (instead of GTE 12 tooth), so maybe there is a way to keep sequential with 1 cam trigger on that pattern, but as you know its not the ordinary 12 tooth crank w/ 2 cam trigger setup, and would have to be. it wouldn't be rocket science to make add a second cam trigger to the head (the cam actually has 1 tooth where the second trigger would be on a gte) and ground down 2 teeth on the first one, just not sure that is what anyone actually does or if the phasing would be appropriate.
may just be a whole lot easier to use the non vvti head you have laying around and call it a day unless you are alright working around all those things to gain vvti.
Those intake parts look amazingly new, in for the cleaning method as well.
oh and on the pistons, 10:1 on a gte block will end up being something different when using a GE head, the difference is the GE head has more volume in it, so expect the ratio to be a little different depending on which head you use. you could possibly compensate by using a GE headgasket instead, which is only safe to use with a GE head.
I have played around with the idea of swapping a vvti head on mine some day (is300 engines and heads are easy to come by).
Only thing I would mention before you get there is the vvti GE head only has one cam sensor spot on it, so that generally means aftermarket ecu and wasted spark (IS300 coils) once you install a GTE crank wheel (12 tooth) on a GE vvti oil pump (pause for a breath... lol). also you would need to install a GTE non vvti cam that only has 1 tooth on it cause the vvti cams have 3 teeth on them for the cam sensor (they really complicated it), or maybe there is a better way to get around that.
so really starting to wonder how people are setting up these vvti heads with the ecu and an actual vvti cam, are they removing 2 of the teeth on the vvti cam to make it work the old way with a 12 tooth crank wheel and wasted spark, or a completely different approach when not using the stock ecu. I think the gte vvti is setup the same way as the ge vvti head in terms of cams and sensors. maybe you know more on the vvti side of things but I haven't messed with it much due to those complications... yet =)
The vvti's comes with a 36-2 trigger wheel normally (instead of GTE 12 tooth), so maybe there is a way to keep sequential with 1 cam trigger on that pattern, but as you know its not the ordinary 12 tooth crank w/ 2 cam trigger setup, and would have to be. it wouldn't be rocket science to make add a second cam trigger to the head (the cam actually has 1 tooth where the second trigger would be on a gte) and ground down 2 teeth on the first one, just not sure that is what anyone actually does or if the phasing would be appropriate.
may just be a whole lot easier to use the non vvti head you have laying around and call it a day unless you are alright working around all those things to gain vvti.
Those intake parts look amazingly new, in for the cleaning method as well.
oh and on the pistons, 10:1 on a gte block will end up being something different when using a GE head, the difference is the GE head has more volume in it, so expect the ratio to be a little different depending on which head you use. you could possibly compensate by using a GE headgasket instead, which is only safe to use with a GE head.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 08-25-15 at 01:48 PM.
#3148
may just be a whole lot easier to use the non vvti head you have laying around and call it a day unless you are alright working around all those things to gain vvti.
Those intake parts look amazingly new, in for the cleaning method as well.
oh and on the pistons, 10:1 on a gte block will end up being something different when using a GE head, the difference is the GE head has more volume in it, so expect the ratio to be a little different depending on which head you use. you could possibly compensate by using a GE headgasket instead, which is only safe to use with a GE head.
Those intake parts look amazingly new, in for the cleaning method as well.
oh and on the pistons, 10:1 on a gte block will end up being something different when using a GE head, the difference is the GE head has more volume in it, so expect the ratio to be a little different depending on which head you use. you could possibly compensate by using a GE headgasket instead, which is only safe to use with a GE head.
On this NA-T setup , I will use the non-VVTi heads and blocks with stock rods and pistons I have around. I don't want to put more money into this setup since it is a temporary setup till I get my high compression VVTi 3.4 liter stroker setup for the 1997 SC300 5 speed car. I just want to put together what I have around at this point in time to get the car running.
I will put one together and document it here just to help and show others that if you have a healthy pre-VVTi long block with good leakdown and compression , you can build a 400-700rwhp (depending on fuel used and supporting mods) NA-T car without spending tons of money. You don't need a GTE engine to get that power. Just got to do some really easy work to make the internals of the GE short block a bit more robust. In fact even without ARP hardware or touching a healthy GE longblock it can still be done with a good Engine Management System and a good tuner. Tons of local guys had requested me to work on their cars but I don't work on other people's car . The most I will do is help a friend in need . Am doing this to show them what to do so they can do it themselves and truly it is not rocket science as some may think. The other day Chris (Chnk) was in my place for quite a while . He organizes and leads the local SC Crew . He tells me how SC guys want to have a fast car but don't want to spend money. Well many tend to think that you got to have a GTE to be fast ... which is FALSE ! Since it is cheaper , many will go through the 1JZGTE route being a GTE. A well prepped GE can be a lethal and fast car . In fact many high HP 2JZ deletes the oil squitters from the GTE engines to get more of that oil pressure into places where it is needed most like bearings. Documenting my NA-T setup will help you local guys how to do it without spending tons and so you don't come to me asking me to work on your cars .. hahahaha. Ain't gonna do it as many of you who have been in my places already know.
At the moment, will be busy working on my GTE harness for the old man's tan SC. Working on your own harness saves you $1000 right there. That is a brand new Precision Turbo , lol. I can't wait to drop its power plant into the engine bay and see what it will give me.
Last edited by gerrb; 08-26-15 at 06:57 AM.
#3150
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
very nice, for some reason I thought the na-t was the 3.4L stroker vvti. that makes much more sense now as a temporary 5-700hp setup yeah a non vvti longblock is perfect for that. show em how its done Gerrb, I already have one but will stay tuned the kerosene cleaning tip is a good one I will be giving that a try since my stock intake sits on a shelf most of the time.