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2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys

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Old 02-09-17, 06:36 AM
  #3916  
chnk
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Originally Posted by gerrb
You should be fine with the GE pistons / TT HG . Compression will be around 9.1 which is good if you want to try pouring E85 into the gas tank .

With higher compression , you don't have to run as much boost to get same power but you have less room for errors when boosting and you are using pump 93 on high compression engines.
I don't plan on running e85 the nearest station is either 25 mins to pleasant hill or 25 minutes to Jefferson, the inconvenience is a bit much for a car I just want to cruise around in and enjoy.

So premium gas it is, which i cant remember if that is 91 or 93. I just bought an AEM V2 that PNP for my 1jz harness so this will be fun
Old 02-09-17, 04:13 PM
  #3917  
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Gerry, you're making me seriously wonder if I should just keep my 4.27 Torsen rear end as is in case I ever get a Tremec transmission and just find another LSD and diff casing for my 3.76 ring and pinion

I like the plan so far. That 2JZGTE with the V160 bolted up is going to be very special in the 97 M/T chassis.

And thank you for the post regarding HKS DLI's! I was going to ask you also but I looked up some SF threads on those first. You nailed everything I was curious about. I was thinking about getting one for my GTE setup.
Old 02-11-17, 08:27 AM
  #3918  
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Originally Posted by chnk
I don't plan on running e85 the nearest station is either 25 mins to pleasant hill or 25 minutes to Jefferson, the inconvenience is a bit much for a car I just want to cruise around in and enjoy.

So premium gas it is, which i cant remember if that is 91 or 93. I just bought an AEM V2 that PNP for my 1jz harness so this will be fun . .
Chris you should be alright with the GE pistons and TT HG. I love it , I am less than 3 miles away from a gas station with E85 . . Most of my cars love corn syrup !

Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Gerry, you're making me seriously wonder if I should just keep my 4.27 Torsen rear end as is in case I ever get a Tremec transmission and just find another LSD and diff casing for my 3.76 ring and pinion

I like the plan so far. That 2JZGTE with the V160 bolted up is going to be very special in the 97 M/T chassis.

And thank you for the post regarding HKS DLI's! I was going to ask you also but I looked up some SF threads on those first. You nailed everything I was curious about. I was thinking about getting one for my GTE setup.
well if you are even considering a Tremec Magnum now , might as well leave it there .

at this point I want the two 1997 SC300 5 speed 1 of 120 I am keeping for good just to be running for now with a stock 2jzGTE VVTi V160 6speed so I can use them . I know when you came to my place up North GA , the Black Pearl already had the 2jzGTE VVTi V160 6speed then and was already a running car. So this time , it will be the 2nd Black 1997 5speed that will get same setup for now. I have yet to give that car a name .

It will take a while before I could have gathered all the engine internal parts I want for both 1997 SC300 .. fully built engines to get the power I am aiming out of them. Once ready , one of them will be transplanted with the Tremec Magnum. Though I have bought a built Tremec Magnum already, I don't have any triple clutch for it so got to put in the last brand new V160 I have been hoarding for now . I hate to buy a triple clutch for the Tremec without having seen good reviews or good experiences so I am waiting for the right time. Hate to throw $3k for a garbage clutch.

I always set my cars with beefed up fuel and ignition system since you can't go wrong having more in that aspect.

Last edited by gerrb; 02-11-17 at 02:54 PM.
Old 02-11-17, 06:46 PM
  #3919  
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Originally Posted by gerrb
well if you are even considering a Tremec Magnum now , might as well leave it there.
I agree and I think I'll keep the current TT Auto casing 4.27 Torsen as is. But that means I will look into a totally new rear diff casing and LSD to have rebuilt with my 3.76 gears. The R154 is the transmission of choice for now and I'm still very happy with it. I won't need such an aggressive final drive ratio once I have a boosted engine.

However isn't 4.083 supposed to be the most ideal ratio for the Tremec Magnum? I probably shouldn't have sold off my original 4.08 open diff pumpkin.

Originally Posted by gerrb
at this point I want the two 1997 SC300 5 speed 1 of 120 I am keeping for good just to be running for now with a stock 2jzGTE VVTi V160 6speed so I can use them . I know when you came to my place up North GA , the Black Pearl already had the 2jzGTE VVTi V160 6speed then and was already a running car. So this time , it will be the 2nd Black 1997 5speed that will get same setup for now. I have yet to give that car a name .

It will take a while before I could have gathered all the engine internal parts I want for both 1997 SC300 .. fully built engines to get the power I am aiming out of them. Once ready , one of them will be transplanted with the Tremec Magnum. Though I have bought a built Tremec Magnum already, I don't have any triple clutch for it so got to put in the last brand new V160 I have been hoarding for now . I hate to buy a triple clutch for the Tremec without having seen good reviews or good experiences so I am waiting for the right time. Hate to throw $3k for a garbage clutch.
Wow... so they will both be V160 2JZGTE SC's now? That's going to be something! You're not concerned about keeping that spare V160 to service on of your other V160 cars? You'll think of a name for the second car once it's put together. It won't be long

Weird that the MKIV community isn't trying out many notable Magnum clutch combinations yet. I figured it would have become a bigger deal in the SF community by now.

Originally Posted by gerrb
I always set my cars with beefed up fuel and ignition system since you can't go wrong having more in that aspect.
Good point. Maybe I should consider an HKS DLI myself then. Not sure how that works out here with smog but I'm sure it can be swapped in and out easily if needed. It just plugs in after all, right? Or I can make my own weatherproof connectors to make it plug and play I'm sure.
Old 02-12-17, 10:34 AM
  #3920  
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Originally Posted by KahnBB6
I agree and I think I'll keep the current TT Auto casing 4.27 Torsen as is. But that means I will look into a totally new rear diff casing and LSD to have rebuilt with my 3.76 gears. The R154 is the transmission of choice for now and I'm still very happy with it. I won't need such an aggressive final drive ratio once I have a boosted engine. However isn't 4.083 supposed to be the most ideal ratio for the Tremec Magnum? I probably shouldn't have sold off my original 4.08 open diff pumpkin.
Final ratio / gearing is all relative I would say to how and where you will use your car. The shorter your gears , the faster is your acceleration but the slower is the boost build.

V160
1st gear - 3.827 x 3.13 diff = 11.97851
2nd gear - 2.36 x 3.13 diff = 7.3868

Tremec Magnum 2.66 Closed Ratio
1st gear - 2.66 x 4.27 diff = 11.3582
1st gear - 2.66 x 4.08 diff = 10.8528
1st gear - 2.66 x 3.76 diff = 10.0016

As you can see, the 3 diffs are all taller than the V160 on the 1st gear . Thus the Tremec Magnum will have a slower acceleration. The taller is your gearing, acceleration gets even worst . Building boost is good at the drag strip where you get out of the hole at higher RPMs. So to answer your question , the 4.08 will not be better than a 4.27 not unless you go to the drag strip. Grannas will IMHO prefer the taller gearing because his cars are more for the drag strip where he needs to build boost first and want the speed at the top end. But on the streets or road racing where you speed up then slow down then speed up then slow down .. and so on , IMHO 4.27 is the better diff gearing. Just get an LSD in there.

* V160 - Tremec Magnum Closed Ratio 2.66
1st Gear - 3.827:1 - 2.66:1
2nd Gear - 2.360:1 - 1.78:1
3rd Gear - 1.685:1 - 1.30:1
4th Gear - 1.312:1 - 1:1
5th Gear - 1.1 0. - 0.80:1
6th Gear - 0.793:1 - 0.62:1

With the preceding table , if you do some math , the V160 will be shorter only on the first gear but from 2nd to 6th gear the Tremec Magnum will be shorter which is good. Remember , the shorter the gear , the better is your acceleration and while on first gear since it is taller , it helps build boost better than the V160. Among those 3 diffs (4.27, 4.08 , 3.76 ) , the 4.27 will produce the closest gearing to the V160.

Here you go :
V160/ 3.13 vs Magnum / 4.27
1st gear - 11.9785 vs 11.3582
2nd gear - 7.3868 vs 7.6006
3rd gear - 5.2740 vs 5.551
4th gear - 4.1065 vs 4.27
5th gear - 3.13 vs 3.416
6th gear - 2.4820 vs 2.6474

Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Wow... so they will both be V160 2JZGTE SC's now? That's going to be something! You're not concerned about keeping that spare V160 to service on of your other V160 cars? You'll think of a name for the second car once it's put together. It won't be long

Weird that the MKIV community isn't trying out many notable Magnum clutch combinations yet. I figured it would have become a bigger deal in the SF community by now.
Well it is temporary for now just to get the car running. Yes that spare new V160 was as reserve for my 6 speeds. When I came to know that they were being discontinued, I bought two of them more than two years ago. I sold one of my used one late last year on SF for $6k and replaced it with one of the new V160. I paid less for the new ones two years ago than what the used ones are being sold now. I used that money to buy a new Built Tremec Magnum for $5k that can withstand over 1000ft.lbs. of torque. '

Well , you know how it goes on SF , you put anything on your MKIV aside from a stock part especially if it is not proven to be better , people will be all over you. You will be buried alive , lmaol. I don't blame them though , look at how much their values are now. 8 years ago , you used to be able to buy an NA MKIV between $5-10k .. now they want $20-30k . An Auto TT MKIV used to sell between $10-20k , a 6 speed used to sell $15-25k . Now they will sell well over +$30k and +$40k respectively in stock form. So not being bastardized with non stock parts I believe have helped.

Am sure there are more people who have been doing that Tremec swap but never mentioned anything especially years back , afraid of being castigated on the forum. Check all those old threads where other trans where deemed as option. They never ended well for the OPs . But with the V160 being discontinued , pretty sure more and more will go into that Tremec Magnum.

I already have a name .. hahaha. I got a Red Mamba so the second black 1997 SC300 1 of 120 will be Black Mamba . That means I got Black Pearl and Black Mamba for my 2 of 120s . The third 1 of 120 I restored which you were asking on our text messages , I will just install a low mileage 2jzge with its 5 speed trans , return it to its original condition . I have no plans of keeping that for good. Two of the 120 are enough. I already have the drive train for that 3rd 5 speed as you see on the previous pictures. One day am pretty sure it will sell for a pretty penny so am not worried about it for now. The car is a southern car so no rust whatsoever . It just needs to be restored properly.


Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Good point. Maybe I should consider an HKS DLI myself then. Not sure how that works out here with smog but I'm sure it can be swapped in and out easily if needed. It just plugs in after all, right? Or I can make my own weatherproof connectors to make it plug and play I'm sure.
You can just disconnect it from the connector without any harm. It is wired in parallel with the stock igniter so removing it should not stop you from running the car. It basically just strengthens that spark.

Last edited by gerrb; 02-13-17 at 03:50 AM.
Old 02-13-17, 01:44 AM
  #3921  
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Hey Gerrb, just wanted to say best threat ever! I need some advice from that brilliant mind of yours. I hear people saying dont put arp rod bolts without getting the rods resized. I sent my head machine shop got it all bolted on with arp head studs tt gasket and I have Arp rod bolts sitting around. What do you think? Should I just torque them on while my oil pan is off? How has yours been?
Old 02-13-17, 02:30 AM
  #3922  
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Gerry, when you said you'd name your black '97 5-speed "Black Mamba" I immediately thought of this I'm mentally replacing the Trans Am with your black '97. It does lead up to a scene featuring an actual black mamba snake being unleashed so it's not totally out of context. I imagine every turbo SC deserves a flat out romp on a desert highway like this. Especially one named "Black Mamba"


Last edited by KahnBB6; 02-13-17 at 04:03 AM.
Old 02-13-17, 11:55 AM
  #3923  
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Originally Posted by davvv
Hey Gerrb, just wanted to say best threat ever! I need some advice from that brilliant mind of yours. I hear people saying dont put arp rod bolts without getting the rods resized. I sent my head machine shop got it all bolted on with arp head studs tt gasket and I have Arp rod bolts sitting around. What do you think? Should I just torque them on while my oil pan is off? How has yours been?
thanks

Technically yes ...many good engine builders and ARP itself recommends checking clearances and if there need be rods resized or mains line honed when using ARP hardware since the clamping force changes from the original rod bolts / main studs.

I personally , having done it in two engines and knowing quite a number on Supraforums having done it too without rod resize and mains line bored , would do it again, hahaha. Just install the arp mains and rods PROVIDED the bearing clearances are checked and make sure are within their tolerances. That is just me . So far I have no problem and I have over 14k miles on mine. All those I did talk to said they have no problem also. It doesn't mean it is right cause I don't want to give the impression that it is alright. It is all up to you to weigh in the costs and benefits and risks.

Originally Posted by KahnBB6
Gerry, when you said you'd name your black '97 5-speed "Black Mamba" I immediately thought of this I'm mentally replacing the Trans Am with your black '97. It does lead up to a scene featuring an actual black mamba snake being unleashed so it's not totally out of context. I imagine every turbo SC deserves a flat out romp on a desert highway like this. Especially one named "Black Mamba"
I always wanted to call one of the SC .. Black Mamba so finally got one .
Old 02-14-17, 03:42 AM
  #3924  
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FOR THOSE WITH THE 1998-2000 SC300 and WANTS TO DO A 2JZGTE VVTi SWAP



A good friend of mine Aaron who used to live in GA and now is in LA has just bought a very clean 1999 SC300 which will be his White Pearl . He used to own the Black Pearl I have now. For those with 1998 - 2000 SC300 , I have good news for you . You don't need to spend $1000 for a harness to do an Aristo 2JZGTE VVTi swap. That money can be used for go fast goodies or partly to pay for the 2jzgte vvti jdm swap from a jdm dealer. I did a comparison of the VVTi harness I had on my 1997 Black Pearl and the 1998-2000 SC300 harness , it basically is a plug and play with minimal modifications.

That means , you do not need the Aristo 2JZGTE VVTi harness that comes with your swap and extend the wires and merge your SC body plugs (all that confusing and tedious process that is why they charge a lot to do a swap harness) except for transplanting the Auto Transmission wiring if you are going to use the TT VVTi auto trans. The SC300 auto trans is different so the connectors / wiring and pinning are different. If going manual then even better .. you don't need any of that.

Here you go Aaron , you know I got you even if you are more than 400 miles away from me

NOTES :

* Your base harness for your VVTI 2jzGTE Swap on your 1998 SC300 will be the current engine harness you have on your SC300 . A lot of those plugs have same pinning with the Aristo VVTi harness. What you don't have on your SC300 harness , take it from the Aristo harness and transplant it .

* What is inside the parenthesis is what is on the SC300 harness ... ( Bolded ) then in another parenthesis will be my suggested course of action for a stock 2JZGTE VVTi swap. If going single turbo then all you have to do is unplug / don't plug, since they have no where to be plugged ,the unused connectors like VSVs

* When there is no difference , you will find (**SAME**) on that line so you don't have to do anything for that wire or pin of the SC300 vvti harness. As you will observe from the table below , indeed the aristo 2JZGTE VVti harness has majority of its wiring / pinning identical with that of the 1998-2000 SC300 2jzGE VVti harness.


* To understand better this cheat sheet , start reading post 3398 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-toys-227.html which is about the 2jzgte VVTi swap harness. But this cheat sheet is all you need for all of you who has the 1998 - 2000 SC300 and want to do a 2jzgte VVTi swap.

* For those going to use the stock Auto TT VVTi , I have incorporated the paddle shifters wiring. I do believe the newer +2006 IS250 / IS350 steering wheel will be a plug and play wheel except for some wiring changes under that airbag. But the wheel has the paddle shifters that will allow you to control the transmission while on manual mode. I have converted a 1992 into all 2000 SC300 wiring ... literally everything on it. The wiring I had on that 2000 SC300 parts car I had late last year was all transplanted into the 1992 SC300 . It will be my APTech Wide Body Project and will install a 2jzgte VVTi / Auto Trans with paddle shifters .


B1 ECU CONNECTOR
1 --> Pin 1 of Injector #3 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 1 of Injector #4 (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 1 of Injector #5 (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 1 of Injector #6 (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 2 of VSV1 (**SAME**)
6 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
7 --> Pin 1 of Electronic Throttle Control ( ETCS-i Motor M-) (**SAME**)
8 --> Pin 2 of Electronic Throttle Control ( ETCS-i Motor M+) (**SAME**)*)
9 --> Ground Front Intake Manifold (**SAME**)
10 --> Pin 1 of Camshaft Sensor (**SAME**)
11 --> Pin 7 of Igniter (**SAME**)
12 --> Pin 6 of Igniter (**SAME**)
13 --> Pin 5 of Igniter (**SAME**)
14 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
15 --> Pin 2 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
16 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
17 --> Pin 2 of VVTi Solenoid OCV- (**SAME**)
18 --> Pin 1 of VVTi Solenoid OCV+ (**SAME**)
19 --> Pin 4 of Electronic Throttle Control (ETCS-i Clutch CL-) (**SAME**)
20 --> Pin 3 of Electronic Throttle Control (ETCS-i Clutch CL+) (**SAME**)
21 --> Ground Rear Intake Manifold (**SAME**)
22 --> Pin 2 of Crank Position Sensor , Pin 2 of Cam Position Sensor (**SAME**)
23 --> Pin 1 of Crank Position Sensor (**SAME**)
24 --> EMPTY (** NSW Pin **) (leave this empty)
25 --> Pin 4 of Igniter (**SAME**)
26 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
27 --> Pin 1 of Knock Sensor 2 (**SAME**)
28 --> Pin 1 of Knock Sensor 1 (**SAME**)
29 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
30 --> ETCS-i Motor Shielding (grounding inside the ECU) (**SAME**)
31--> Ground Rear Intake Manifold (**SAME**)


B2 ECU CONNECTOR
1 --> EMPTY ( ** Ground Rear Side of Cylinder Head **) (leave this empty)
2 --> Pin 4 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor , Pin 3 of Map Sensor, Pin 1 of Throttle Position Sensor (SC300 uses the Map Sensor as the vapor pressure sensor) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 2 of VSV2 (SC300 has this for an 02 sensor ) (keep my wiring)
4 --> Pin 1 of O2 Sensor (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 1 of Injector #1 , Pin 1 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
6 --> Pin 1 of Injector #2 (**SAME**)
7 --> Pin 2 of VSVPRG (**SAME**)
8 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
9 --> Pin 2 of Map Sensor (** Pin 13 of IJ2 then connects to Pin 18 (PTnk) of ECU Connector D **) (keep my wiring)
10 --> Pin 5 of MAF Sensor (**SAME**)
11 --> EMPTY (SC300 has this for an 02 sensor ) (leave this empty)
12 --> Pin 3 of O2 Sensor (**SAME**)
13 --> Pin 5 of Park / Neutral Switch (** SC300 has this to pin 14 of IJ2 **) (keep my wiring)
14 --> Pin 2 of Coolant Sensor (**SAME**)
15 --> Pin 2 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (**SAME**)
16 --> Pin 1 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (**SAME**)
17 --> Pin 4 of O2 Sensor , Ground Rear Intake Manifold , (** Pin 3 E1 of Data Link Connector D1 **) (keep my wiring)
18 --> Pin 2 of MAF Sensor , Pin 1 of Coolant Sensor, Pin 3 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Pin 1 of MAP Sensor, Pin 4 of Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (SC300 uses the Map Sensor as the vapor pressure sensor) (keep my wiring)
19 --> Pin 3 of MAF Sensor (**SAME**)
20 --> Pin 4 of Park / Neutral Switch (** Pin 2 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring)
21 --> Pin 8 of Park / Neutral Switch (** Pin 3 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring)
22 --> Pin 1 of MAF Sensor (**SAME**)
23 --> Pin 2 of Throttle Position Sensor (**SAME**)
24 --> Pin 3 of Throttle Position Sensor (**SAME**)


B3 ECU CONNECTOR
1 --> Pin 6 of Solenoid Connector (** Pin 5 of Solenoid Connector **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 12 of Solenoid Connector (** Pin 10 of Solenoid Connector **) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 5 of Solenoid Connector (** Non Existent on SC300 **) (keep my wiring)
4 --> Pin 2 of Overdrive Speed Sensor (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 1 of Speed Sensor 2 (**SAME**)
6 --> Pin 11 of Solenoid Connector (** Non Existent on SC300 **) (keep my wiring)
7 --> Pin 4 of Solenoid Connector (**SAME**)
8 --> Pin 3 of Solenoid Connector (**SAME**)
9 --> Pin 2 of Solenoid Connector (**SAME**)
10 --> Pin 1 of Overdrive Speed Sensor (**SAME**)
11 --> Pin 2 of Speed Sensor 2 (**SAME**)
12 --> Pin 2 of VSV3 (** Pin 9 of IJ2 **) (keep my wiring)
13 --> Pin 10 of Solenoid Connector (** Pin 9 of Solenoid Connector **) (keep my wiring)
14 --> Pin 9 of Solenoid Connector (** Pin 8 of Solenoid Connector **) (keep my wiring)
15 --> Pin 8 of Solenoid Connector (** Pin 7 of Solenoid Connector **) (keep my wiring)
16 --> Pin 2 of VSVFPU (** SC300 goes to pin 3 of IK2 **) (keep my wiring)
17 --> Pin 1 of ATF Temperature Sensor (**SAME**)


F59 ECU CONNECTOR
1 --> EMPTY (** AC Air Condition Control Assembly HVAC **) (leave this empty)
2 --> Pin 3 of EB1 , Pin 23 of IK2 , Pin 17 if IJ2 (M/T Only) , Pin 6 (** Pin 5 **) of Park / Neutral Switch (A/T only) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 5 of F60, Pin 14 of IJ1 (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (Keep my wiring)
4 --> Right Shift Paddle (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring or leave this empty if you wont use shift paddles)
5 --> EMPTY (** Pin 11 TC of Data Link Connector D1 ** ) (leave this empty if there is no Engine Bay Diagnostic Port otherwise leave it as is on the SC300 harness)
6 --> Pin 7 of IJ2 (**SAME**)
7 --> EMPTY (** Pin 6 of IK2 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 7 of F59 to Pin 6 of IK2)
8 --> EMPTY (** SC300 has this to an O2 sensor **) (leave this empty)
9 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
10 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
11 --> EMPTY (** Pin 1 of IJ2 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 11 of F59 to Pin 1 of IJ2)
12 --> EMPTY (** SC300 goes to pin 21 of IK1 trans PWR switch **) (leave this empty)
13 --> Pin 2 of EB-1 (**SAME**)
14 --> Left Shift Paddle (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring or leave this empty if you wont use shift paddles)
15 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
16 --> Pin 2 of the Park / Neutral Switch (** Pin 16 of the Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
17 --> Pin 7 of the Park / Neutral Switch (** Pin 9 of the Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
18 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
19 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
20 --> EMPTY (outputs a TACH signal )
21 --> EMPTY (** Pin 18 of IK2 shift lock ecu **) (leave this empty)
22 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
23 --> EMPTY (** Pin 2 of IJ2 ** ) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 23 of F59 to Pin 2 of IJ2)
24 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
25 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
26 --> Pin 1 of the Park / Neutral Switch (** ELS goes to pin 11 of IJ1 **) (keep my wiring if you are on VVTi TT Auto Trans)
27 --> EMPTY (** Pin 18 of IK2 shift lock ecu **) (leave this empty)
28 --> EMPTY (** Pin 6 of IK1 **) (leave this empty)


F60 ECU CONNECTOR
1 --> Pin 4 of EB1 , Pin 7 of F60 (**The SAME**) (Remove Pin 7 of F60 on here since it is now on Pin 13 of IJ1)
2 --> EMPTY (** Pin 7 of IK1 **) (leave this empty)
3 --> EMPTY (** Pin 17 of IK2 **) (leave this empty)
4 --> Pin 8 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 14 of IJ1 , Pin 3 of F59 (keep my wiring)
6 --> Pin 9 of IK2 (**SAME**)
7 --> Pin 1 of F60 , Pin 4 of EB1 (** Pin 13 of IJ1 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 7 of F60 to Pin 13 of IJ1 )
8 --> Pin 16 of F60, Pin 3 of EB2 , Pin 12 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
9 --> Pin 11 of IJ2 (**SAME**)
10 --> Pin 8 of EB1 (**SAME**)
11 --> Pin 18 of IK1 (**SAME**)
12 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
13 --> EMPTY (**SAME**) (w/o traction)
14 --> EMPTY (**SAME**) (w/o traction)
15 --> EMPTY (**SAME**) (w/o traction)
16 --> Pin 3 of EB2 , Pin 12 of IJ1, Pin 8 of F60 (**SAME**)
17 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
18 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
19 --> EMPTY (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (leave this empty)
20 --> EMPTY (**SAME**) (w/o traction)
21 --> EMPTY (**SAME**) (w/o traction)
22 --> EMPTY (** Pin 3 of IJ2 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 22 of F60 to Pin 3 of IJ2)

EB1 Connector
1 --> Pin 4 of AC Compressor (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 13 of F59 (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 2 of F59 (STA) , Pin 23 of IK2 , Pin 17 of IJ2 (M/T only) , Pin 6 (** Pin 5 **) of Park Neutral Switch (A/T Only) (Keep my wiring)
4 --> Pin 1 of F60 (**SAME**)
5
--> Empty
6 --> Empty (** Pin 23 of Data Link Connector 1 D1 **) (You can keep this empty or keep the SC300 Diagnostic Port)
7 --> Pin 1 of II1 , Pin 1 of AC Compressor (**SAME**)
8 --> Pin 10 of F60 (**SAME**)

EB2 Connector
1 --> Starter Solenoid (**SAME**)
2 --> Empty
3 --> Pin 12 of IJ1 , Pin 8 of F60 , Pin 16 of F60 (**SAME**)

IK1 Connector

1 --> Ground Intake Manifold Front Side ((**SAME**) plus Pin 1 of Power Steering Oil Pressure Switch)
2 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
3 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
4 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
5 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
6 --> Pin 2 of the Speed Sensor 1 (** Pin 28 PWRL **) (keep my wiring )
7 --> Pin 3 of the Speed Sensor 1 (** Pin 2 SND **) (keep my wiring )
8 --> Pin 8 of Igniter , Pin 1 of Short Connector (keep my wiring )
9 --> Pin 1 of Water Temp Sender Gauge , Pin 7 of Short Connector (**SAME**)
10 --> Empty (** Pin 11 of Data Link Connector 1 D1 **) (You can keep this empty or keep the SC300 Diagnostic Port)
11 --> Pin 2 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 16 of F59 (** Pin 8 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
12 --> Pin 1 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 26 of F59 (** Pin 7 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
13 --> Pin 5 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 13 of B2 ECU Connector (** Pin 10 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
14 --> Pin 7 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 17 of F59 (** Pin 9 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
15 --> Ground Intake Manifold Rear Side (**SAME**)
16 -->Pin 4 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 20 of B2 ECU Connector (** Pin 2 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
17 -->Pin 8 of Park / Neutral Switch , Pin 21 of B2 ECU Connector (** Pin 3 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring )
18 --> Pin 11 of F60 (**SAME**)
19 --> Ground Intake Manifold (**SAME**)
20 --> Pin 1 of Oil Pressure Switch (**SAME**)
21 --> Empty (** Pin 12 PWR **) (leave this empty)
22 --> Empty (** Pin 20 IMLD **) (leave this empty)
23 --> Pin 1 of Oil Level Switch Sensor (**SAME**)

IK2 Connector
1 --> Empty (** to Pin 24 OX2B **) (leave this empty)
2 --> Empty (** Pin 22 of Data Link Connector 1 D1 **) (You can keep this empty or keep the SC300 Diagnostic Port)
3 --> Empty (** Pin 16 PI **) (leave this empty)
4 --> Empty (** to Pin 22 RXCK **) (leave this empty)
5 --> Empty (** to Pin 21 TXCT **) (leave this empty)
6 --> Pin 7 of F59 (**SAME**)
8 --> Empty (** to Pin 25 HT2B **) (leave this empty)
9 --> Pin 6 of F60 (**SAME**)
10 --> Empty (** Pin 5 of Data Link Connector 1 D1 **) (You can keep the SC300 Diagnostic Port)
11 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
15 --> Empty (** to Pin 23 CODE **) (leave this empty)
16 --> Empty (** Pin 9 ECM **) (leave this empty)
17 --> Empty (** Pin 3 SMSW **) (leave this empty)
18 --> Empty (** Pin 27 RSPD for shift lock **) (leave this empty)
19 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
20 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
23 --> Pin 3 of EB1 , Pin 2 of F59 (STA) , Pin 17 of IJ2 (M/T only) , Pin 6 ( Pin 5 ) of Park Neutral Switch (A/T Only) (keep my wiring)
24 --> Ground Front Side of Intake Manifold (**SAME**)
25 --> Empty (** Pin 16 of Data Link Connector 1 D1 **) (You can keep this empty or keep the SC300 Diagnostic Port)

IJ1 Connector
1 --> Pin 1 of Injector 1 ,Pin 5 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 2 of II1 , Pin 2 of the VSV Heater Valve (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 3 of Short Connector , Pin 2 of Injectors 2 / 4 / 5 / 6 (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 2 of Theft Deterrent Horn (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC ( Pin 12 B+ of Data Link Connector D1 ) (keep my wiring)
6 --> Pin 9 (** Pin 6 **) of Park Neutral Switch (A/T Only) , (** Pin 24 of B1 (A/T Only) **) (keep my wiring)
7 --> Pin 5 of Short Connector , Pin 1 of Coils 1 / 2 / 3 , Pin 1 of Noise Filter , Pin 9 of Igniter , Pin 2 of Injectors 1 / 3 (**SAME**)
8 --> Pin 4 of F60 (DI) (**SAME**)
9 --> Pin 1 of Theft Deterrent Horn (**SAME**)
10 -->Pin 3 of Park / Neutral Switch ,Pin 1 of the Speed Sensor 1 , Pin 2 of the Reverse Light Switch Connector (M/T Only) (** Pin 4 of Park / Neutral Switch **) (keep my wiring)
11 --> Empty (** Pin 26 of F59 **) (keep my wiring if you are on VVTi TT Auto Trans, leave this empty)
12 --> Pin 3 of EB2 , Pin 8 of F60 , Pin 16 of F60 (**SAME**)
13 --> Empty (** Pin 7 of F60 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 7 of F60 to Pin 13 of IJ1)
14 --> Pin 5 of F60 (FPC) (**SAME**)

Note about : IJ1-3 & IJ1-7
They are connected internally so whatever is connected to IJ1-3 technically is connected to IJ1-7

IJ2 Connector
1--> Empty (** Pin 11 of F59 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 11 of F59 to Pin 1 of IJ2)
2 --> Empty(** Pin 23 of F59 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 23 of F59 to Pin 2 of IJ2)
3 --> Empty (** Pin 22 of F60 **) (Follow SC300 on this one which is connecting Pin 3 of IJ2 to Pin 22 of 60)
4 --> Empty (** Pin 13 TBP **) (leave this empty)
5 --> Empty (**SAME**) (only for SC400 radiator cooling fan)
6 --> Pin 1 of PPS Solenoid (**SAME**)
7 --> Pin 6 of F59 (**SAME**)
8 --> Empty (** Pin 1 of TPS , Pin 4 of APPS **) (leave this empty)
9 --> Empty (** Pin 12 CCV **) (leave this empty)
10 --> Empty (** Pin 2 of MAF , Pin 1 of Coolant Temp Sensor , Pin 4 of TPS , Pin 3 of APPS **) (leave this empty)
11 --> Pin 9 of F60 (**SAME**)
12 --> Empty (** Pin 10 KSW **) (leave this empty)
13 --> Empty (** Pin 18 PTNK **) (leave this empty)
14 --> Empty (** Pin 13 ELS2 **) (leave this empty)
15 --> Empty (** SAME **) (only for SC400 radiator cooling fan)
16 --> Pin 2 of PPS Solenoid (**SAME**)

II1 Connector

1 --> Pin 1 of the AC Connector, Pin 7 of EB1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 2 of the VSV Heater Valve, Pin 2 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
3 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 2 of the AC Connector (**SAME**)
5 --> Should go to the AC request Pin of the ECU but the Aristo 2jzgtte VVTi has none. Use this going to a relay to turn the AC Compressor
6 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
7 --> Pin 1 of the VSV Heater Valve (**SAME**)
8 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
9 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
10 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
11 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)
12 --> EMPTY (**SAME**)

AC COMPRESSOR (You will need to replace the Aristo 3 pin connector with that of the 4 pin SC or MKIV , the aristo vvti has a different connector)
1 --> Pin 1 of II1 , Pin 7 of EB-1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 4 of II1 (**SAME**)
3 --> Empty (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 1 of EB-1 (**SAME**)

ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR
1 --> Pin 16 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 15 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 1 of Coolant Sensor, Pin 2 of MAF, Pin 1 of MAP Sensor, Pin 4 of Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (SC300 uses the Map Sensor as the vapor pressure sensor and goes to IJ2-8 & IJ2-10 ) (keep my wiring)
4 -->Pin 2 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 1 of Throttle Position Sensor , Pin 3 of Map Sensor (**Pin 8 of IJ2 that goes to pin 3 of Map / Vapor Pressure Sensor**) (keep my wiring)

CAMSHAFT SENSOR
1 --> Pin 10 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 22 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

COOLANT SENSOR

1 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 2 of MAF , Pin 4 of TPS , Pin 3 of APPS, Pin 1 of MAP , Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (2jzGE VVTi uses MAP for the tank vapor pressure and goes to IJ2-8 & IJ2-10) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 14 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

CRANK POSITION SENSOR
1 --> Pin 23 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 22 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL CLUTCH(ETCS-i)
1 --> Pin 7 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 8 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 20 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 19 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

HEATER VALVE
1 --> Pin 7 of II1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 2 of II1 , Pin 2 of IJ1 (**SAME**)


IGNITION COIL #1 (Front of Engine)
1 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 1 of Igniter (C2-) (**SAME**)

IGNITION COIL #2 (Middle)
1 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 2 of Igniter (C3-) (**SAME**)

IGNITION COIL #3 (Back of Engine)
1 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 10 of Igniter (C1-) (**SAME**)

IGNITER CONNECTOR
1 --> Pin 2 of Ignition Coil 1 (Front of Engine) (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 2 of Ignition Coil 2 (Middle of Engine) (**SAME**)
3 --> Ground Front Intake Manifold (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 25 of B1 (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 13 of B1 (**SAME**)
6 --> Pin 12 of B1 (**SAME**)
7 --> Pin 11 of B1 (**SAME**)
8 --> Pin 8 of IK1 (**SAME**)
9 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 , Pin 1 of Coils 1 / 2 / 3 , Pin 1 of Noise Filter (**SAME**)
10 --> Pin 2 of Ignition Coil 3 (Back of Engine) (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #1

1 --> Pin 5 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 1 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #2
1 --> Pin 6 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 3 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #3
1 --> Pin 1 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #4
1 --> Pin 2 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 3 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #5
1 --> Pin 3 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 3 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

INJECTOR #6
1 --> Pin 4 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 3 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

KNOCK SENSOR 1

1 --> Pin 28 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

KNOCK SENSOR 2
1 --> Pin 27 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

MAF SENSOR
1 --> Pin 22 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 1 of Coolant Sensor, Pin 3 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Pin 1 of MAP Sensor, Pin 4 of Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (**SC300 uses the Map Sensor as the vapor pressure sensor and goes to IJ2-8 & IJ2-10** ) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 19 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (keep my wiring)
5 --> Pin 10 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

MAP SENSOR
1 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 2 of MAF Sensor, Pin 1 of Coolant Sensor, Pin 3 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Pin 4 of Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (** SC300 Pin 1 of Map sensor goes to Pin 10 of IJ2 then connects to the preceeding sensors **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 9 of B2 (Map Input) (** SC300 Pin 2 of Map Sensor goes to Pin 13 of IJ2 then connects to Pin 18 (PTnk) of ECU Connector D **) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 2 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 4 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor , Pin 1 of Throttle Position Sensor (**S300 pin 3 of Map sensor goes Pin 8 of IJ2 then connects to the preceeding sensors **) (keep my wiring)

Noise Filter
1 --> Pin 7 of IJ1 , Pin 9 of Igniter , Pin 1 of Coils 1 / 2 / 3 (**SAME**)
2 --> Ground Rear Side of Cylinder Head (**SAME**)

OIL PRESSURE SWITCH

1 --> Pin 20 of IK1 (**SAME**)

OIL LEVEL SWITCH

1 --> Pin 23 of IK1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Ground Rear Side of Intake Manifold (**SAME**)

OXYGEN SENSOR
1 --> Pin 4 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 4 of MAF 4 , Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 12 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 17 of B2 ECU Connector and to the Ground connector on the intake manifold (E1 = ECU Ground) (**SAME**)

PARK / NEUTRAL SWITCH (only A/T)
1 --> Pin 26 of F59 , Pin 12 of IK1 (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 16 of F59 , Pin 11 of IK1 (** Pin 16 of IK1 **) (keep my wiring)
3 --> Pin 10 of IJ1 (** Pin 17 of IK1 **) (keep my wiring)
4 --> Pin 20 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 16 of IK1 (** Pin 10 of IJ1 **) (keep my wiring)
5 --> Pin 13 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 13 of IK1 (** Pin 23 of IK2 , Pin 3 of EB1 , Pin 2 of F59 (STA) **) (keep my wiring)
6 --> Pin 23 of IK2 , Pin 3 of EB1 , Pin 2 of F59 (STA) (** Pin 6 of IJ1 , Pin 24 of B1 **) (keep my wiring)
7 --> Pin 17 of F59 , Pin 14 of IK1 (** Pin 12 of IK1 **) (keep my wiring)
8 --> Pin 21 of B2 ECU Connector, Pin 17 of IK1 (** Pin 11 of IK1 **) (keep my wiring)
9 --> Pin 6 of IJ1 (keep my wiring)


PROPORTIONS POWER STEERING (PPS)
1 --> Pin 6 of IJ2 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 16 of IJ2 (**SAME**)


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

1 --> Pin 2 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 4 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor , Pin 3 of Map Sensor (**Pin 8 of IJ2 that goes to pin 3 of Map / Vapor Pressure Sensor**) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 23 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 24 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector , Pin 1 of Coolant Sensor, Pin 3 of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor, Pin 1 of MAP Sensor, Pin 2 of MAF , Pin 7 of ATF Temp Sensor (SC300 uses the Map Sensor as the vapor pressure sensor and goes to IJ2-8 & IJ2-10 ) (keep my wiring)

SOLENOID (AUTO TRANSMISSION)
1 --> Pin 17 of B3 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 9 of B3 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
3 --> Pin 8 of B3 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
4 --> Pin 7 of B3 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
5 --> Pin 3 of B3 ECU Connector (** Pin 1 of B3 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
6 --> Pin 1 of B3 ECU Connector (** Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
7 --> Pin 18 of B2 ECU Connector (** Pin 15 of B3 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
8 --> Pin 15 of B3 ECU Connector (** Pin 14 of B3 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
9 --> Pin 14 of B3 ECU Connector (** Pin 13 of B3 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
10 --> Pin 13 of B3 ECU Connector (** Pin 2 of B3 ECU Connector **) (keep my wiring)
11 --> Pin 6 of B3 ECU Connector (** Non Existent on SC300 **) (keep my wiring)
12 --> Pin 2 of B3 ECU Connector (** Non Existent on SC300 **) (keep my wiring)

THEFT DETERRENT HORN
1 --> Pin 9 of IJ1 (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 4 of IJ1 (**SAME**)

VSV1 (ACIS)
1 --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 5 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

VSV2
1 --> --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 3 of B2 ECU Connector (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)

VSV3
1 --> --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 12 of B3 ECU Connector (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)

VSVFPU
1 --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 16 of B3 ECU Connector (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)

VSVPMC
1 --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSVPRG , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 15 of B1 ECU Connector (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)

VSVPRG
1 --> Pin 5 of IJ1 , Pin 4 of MAF Sensor, Pin 2 of O2 Sensor , Pin 1 of VSV1 , Pin 1 of VSV2 , Pin 1 of VSV3 , Pin 1 of VSVFPU, Pin 1 of VSVPMC (** Didn't find on SC300 doc **) (keep my wiring)
2 --> Pin 7 of B2 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

VVTi SOLENOID
1 --> Pin 18 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)
2 --> Pin 17 of B1 ECU Connector (**SAME**)

WATER TEMPERATURE SENDER FOR GAUGE

1 --> Pin 9 of IK1 , Pin 7 of Short Connector (**SAME**)

..
GOOD LUCK & ENJOY YOUR Lexus SC with the 2JZGTE VVTI BUDDY

For those who I do not know personally and have questions about this 2JZGTE VVTi wiring harness .. please post your questions here . Do not PM me or send me TEXT messages. I already get tons of them from different members here and I don't have the time to answer . Your posted questions will also help others if they have same ones too so don't be afraid to post your question here.

Don't let anyone convince you that the non VVTI 2JZGTE is better. That is garbage. Those people do not know what they are talking about . We spend most of our time driving our cars on the lower RPMs. VVTi gives you more power and more torque DOWN LOW and helps you save fuel. Yes , you get better mileage per gallon. There is a reason why Toyota incorporated the VVTi System into their engines. Soon even the JDM dealers will start jacking up their prices on these VVTi 2JZGTE engine swaps once people start jumping on them. For the Non VVTi 2JZGTE they already want over $3k since so many are looking for those engine swaps. Wait till people get to know more about the pros of the VVTi 2JZGTE and more are using it in their swaps.






EDIT : As I always have written in different parts of this thread .... I won't be held responsible of any damage on your cars if you decide to follow whatever I write on my build thread. Follow at your own risk . As I kept on telling my buddy Aaron , double / triple check every wire when you do that harness. It is easier to trouble shoot your harness while it is out so spend the time making sure it is done well. It is not hard on this one since at least 85% of the 1998-2000 SC300 harness is similar with that of the Aristo 2JZGTE VVTI harness . This will save you at least $1000 .

Last edited by gerrb; 05-21-17 at 12:53 PM.
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Ezroni (02-22-17)
Old 02-14-17, 04:10 PM
  #3925  
geauxsimon
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Originally Posted by gerrb
Till I get v-bands on every piece of my IC piping, I will have to use silicone hoses and clamps




You need to get that engine / turbo to breath .. so strapping a bigger down pipe / midpipe to my 3" dual exhaust will help a lot extract that power



Will get that downpipe / midpipe bolted to a 4" exhaust that splits into true dual 3" magnaflow exhaust. I thought I would use this in my 2nd 2jzgte SC but never did so hopefully now I can use it.






E85 friendly (PTFE) fuel lines from -6 to -12an . I always get all my fuel components E85 ready since I run ethanol during summer . High HP cars love that corn extract .



Different sizes of fittings . My buddy Aaron actually left tons of other fittings, clamps a few PTFE fuel lines too.



Started working on the bigger lines from the tank -12an. The weldon pump needs a -12an from the pump. One of the engines will be supplied fuel from a triple denso setup and the other with a single TT pump / weldon pump . Damn, that -12an size will easily supply a boosted semi diesel truck with fuel . You can't go wrong with a big fuel system as long as you have a system that can control it.

I pretty much hated mating those fittings to the PTFE hose! I had pin holes in my fingers, hands for weeks! But dang they look good when they are ran all nice and neat! You'll put them to good use though buddy
Old 02-16-17, 04:07 AM
  #3926  
gerrb
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Originally Posted by geauxsimon
I pretty much hated mating those fittings to the PTFE hose! I had pin holes in my fingers, hands for weeks! But dang they look good when they are ran all nice and neat! You'll put them to good use though buddy
haha .. since you will be on pump 93 on that 550rwhp SC .. we will use all your stock lines . They will do the work just fine. Just need to re-use some lines for different use since those SCs have returnless fuel system and the charcoal canister is already at the back of the car . Then whatever short lines you need , you can use the ordinary rubber fuel lines . I know how it is being pricked by those PTFE braided lines

Your White Pearl and my APTech Wide Body Project will basically be twins on the drive / power train setup . The +2006 ISx50 steering wheel with paddle shifters are only $150 . What is pricey is the airbag . We can wait a bit on that steering wheel with airbag. they will go cheap eventually. Though I am incorporating the wiring for the paddle shifters on our setup so when we have the wheel , you just need to connect the wires to the paddles. They don't need to be connected right now. You just won't have manual mode on your GTE VVTi for now and control gear shifting . I believe the feature will be really cool . After all OD on the TT trans is weaker with less clutch packs that is why it is always adviced for it to be OFF when boosting.

Last edited by gerrb; 02-16-17 at 06:42 AM.
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geauxsimon (02-17-17)
Old 02-19-17, 10:30 AM
  #3927  
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Trying to get my APTech Wide Body Project ready so when the APTech kit comes ..all I have to do is getting the body look good. This will be a run around look good SC so all I want will be 500-600rwhp on this car. Getting 500-600 can be achieved with just bolt ons on a stock GTE long block as long as you have a healthy engine. Turbos will have to be replaced to get into that power though since those ceramic turbos will be in pieces after 18psi / 400-450rwhp. Transmission will also be in borrowed times around that 450rwhp so need to think of an alternative too. This car is a 1992 but every darn thing on this car like wiring , abs , brake master , sensors .. basically everything from the 2000 SC300 has been transplanted into this car . Installed the 2JZGTE VVTi stock with auto transmission yesterday . Paddle shifters have been wired in also . Cleaned up the engine and made sure there were no leaks . I didn't have to replace any seal and off into the bay .

Common Aaron , the drivetrain on this car will be like yours buddy to start with .. you better get it going on that VVTi engine that you just got delivered.. clean it up now , lol. The only difference more likely on this car and your car will be the APTech Wide Body Kit.

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With the APTech Wide Body kit , this car should end up looking like this. Maybe an anthracite color or just like pictured below ? I don't know.... only thing I know now is I always wanted a wide bodied SC since I first owned an SC so maybe this time it will become a reality with a kit like that from APTech which is made of poly-urethane.

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Last edited by gerrb; 02-19-17 at 10:55 AM.
Old 02-20-17, 07:16 AM
  #3928  
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Someone asked me why is it that the VVTi 2JZGTE will be better for a swap when everyone was using the non vvti on their swaps before which basically was one of the reason those non vvti 2jzgte swap prices have risen to the roof ? When I am asked questions that I know will help many , I will try to post it here on my thread .

There used to be non existent or better less aftermarket parts for the 2JZGTE VVTi engines. Like there were not many makers of aftermarket camshafts or ECUs that supported the VVTi . That was the reason why many tuners who wanted to make power didn't advice people to get them. Today , that isn't true anymore .. there are more and more products available for the 2JZGTE vvti and there are more and more tuners finding out the advantages of VVTi . There was a reason after all why Toyota or other companies have introduced the technology .

We spend most of our time driving on the lower RPMs especially inside the city. VVTi gives you more torque and power in the lower RPMs and it helps you save fuel . It helps spool that turbo faster. There are more and more tuners or motorshops tuning such systems due to availability of aftermarket ECUs supporting it and see its advantages.

Right now you can get these swaps at around $1800 shipped depending on where you are were as the non vvti they want at least $3000 . And if you are near a JDM dealer , then it is only $1600.. lucky you . It is now a no brainer to go VVTi if I were to be asked.

Exactly the reason why my two 2jzGTE / 6speed 1997 SC300 2 of the 120s and my APTech Wide Body Project all have VVTi setups now .

Last edited by gerrb; 02-21-17 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 02-20-17, 08:01 AM
  #3929  
LethalSC
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gerrb, What would be needed to put a 2jzgte vvti into 5 speed 93 sc non vvti? I am curious what parts will be needed if you don't have a vvti donor vehicle.
Old 02-20-17, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by LethalSC
gerrb, What would be needed to put a 2jzgte vvti into 5 speed 93 sc non vvti? I am curious what parts will be needed if you don't have a vvti donor vehicle.
got to get your engine wiring harness done . If you have a manual trans SC then it is even easier . If I were you, I will buy a 1998-2000 SC300 engine harness , it will make the engine swap harness easier. I just saw some on ebay and apparently they are selling quick now .

Last edited by gerrb; 02-20-17 at 01:32 PM.


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