lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Yes, yes! Let's get this thing finished and dropped in RM! Hey I can't remember but was this a JDM swap with the JDM twins or USDM?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Steve, they are JDM twins... got two sets that came with engines I bought locally through Craigs. Since no one will buy them anyway I decided that I might as well use them first and enjoy them though I got the engine / tranny ready to be pushed later to the 700 at least once these twins give way and go aftermarket. It will be my run around town car so they will serve the purpose for now with our traffic around.

I still have small things to do on the bay and the engine but it will more likely be on the bay this week.

I just filled the converter with new ATF Type IV fluid. It takes an eternity to put just a quart....so sloooooooowwwww since air and fluid goes in/out in same small opening.Then bolt tranny on the engine.



'


The JDM twins has a smaller flange to the downpipe . The RMM 3" down/mid pipe sold is meant for the bigger flange of the USDM twins. So I need to cut that flange and weld the smaller flange to match the exhaust studs location but still 3" diameter hole to help on exhausts gas exit.

1A1

Thanks for posting this up. I also purchased a 1994 SC white with 68K miles on it-one owner in pristine condition. I plan on following a similar route, although I am keeping the stock GE bottom end for a while.

Steve K.

lilSCsteve

iTrader: (71)

Thanks Gerrb! Cleared up some questions I had as well.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

What's up man... a lot of us MKIV owners are now having sleeper SCs, best flatform to cross interchange our MKIV parts.... Damn at 68k miles and one owner, that is a winner ! Are you planning to put a GTE head or just boost the stock GE long block.?

It is a pleasure that my build thread can help a lot of people. We all want to save by doing things ourselves. Am pretty sure you are way more knowledgeable than I am , you having more experience on these. Well we all know that the stock GE block with a good aftermarket ECU and bolt ons can indeed hold a good amount of power once a good tuner have done his magic, specially yours is a very low mileage block .

Aren't you tuning your own cars too ?

You are welcome my friend !

irondonkey

i'm also thinking about going with a GE bottom, with a GTE head.

what do you think? honestly, i think it's the most cost efficient way.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

True, it is a cheaper way if you already have the GE bottom. But IMHO, not the first criteria to look at to build a car. For me , this will all depend again on your purpose / use of the car and your final power goal to achieve that purpose for the car. There are pros and cons of GE or GTE bottom.

Before I proceed, again , what I say on this thread is based on all my readings and research so let no one take them as gospel truth. I am just like most JZ enthusiast who is probably just a few pages ahead to a few. I am not a mechanic nor my BS & MS degrees has anything to do with automotives. I was in the Computer / Informtion Technology Field all my life, very different discipline. So take everything you read here with a grain of salt.

Budget of course dictates the kind of build a person takes. Now that I know more ...than a couple of years ago, the way I suggest in building a car is , I will first evaluate, what will the use of the car I am building be for. Then shoot for a power goal that will help you attain that use for the car and STICK WITH IT !!! It is a sickness , we all love to brag that we have so much power on our cars. Who wouldn't if they can ?

Once you know what your car is for and know what power you want to attain to fulfill that use, then SAVE till you have enough money to attain those goals. If you start a project just to get things going without clear objectives... YOU WILL BE WASTING a lot of TIME and MONEY along the process. Why ? you will buy stuff then sell, either because it won't help you attain you goal or you changed your mind. Don't let your budget now make you start your build. Build when you are ready or use the money you have now to collect the right parts .

GE block maybe cost effective to start with but if its limitations will prevent you from attaining your goal (use of the car and power goal) then it's no use. Don't get me wrong. You can have a good power from a GE block .. it all depends on what are you trying to achieve. If your car is a cuircuit or road racing car that will always be on boost for a long period of time like hours, then the oil squitters on the GTE block can help cool down the pistons. If your car is a quarter mile car in which it will run for a few seconds at a time on the track, then you don't need a GTE block with oil squitters, you might as well divert that oil to the bearings than cooling the pistons. So again,it all depends on the use of your car. And stick to your goal that is why evaluate well what is your goal. Avoid changing them or you waste a lot of money.

So I wouldn't look at building a car looking at cost efficiency as the FIRST criteria. The words Performance Cars and Cheap can't go hand in hand. You cheap out , your car won't last . Even the big boys with +1000rwhp MKIVs break their cars often . Performance Cars are money pits. If you are thinking that you can get away with being cheap, you will be in for a surprise. I would rather say , build your car wisely !

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Last Saturday , I was cleaning up around, organizing parts I had and was wondering why I had an extra rear main seal , just to remember that I haven't installed one for Red Mamba. Lubed the inner lip of the seal and inserted it in. Applied also a bit of oil on all those surface rusts.





Today, applied thread locker to the bolts and bolted plate to crank shaft and torqued them to 61 ft-lbs.

irondonkey

i've also read else that the GE block is less prone to having oiling issues, due to the lack of the squirters. my application is only for street.

if oil is being used to cool down pistons, then i would probably run an external oil cooler. engine oil can only take so much heat before it shears down and loses its lubricating properties.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Oiling issues can be caused by a lot of things and not because a block has oil squitters.

The 1990's JZ engine technology was meant to run at 300hp then. But we are all pushing the parts that were meant for 300hp to a lot more than they were designed ...like the oil pump . That is why a bit of modifications are done to it to perform better. Performance shops sell modified oil pumps.And for really very high hp , some have to use dry sump oiling system. Reason why I said, based on your end goal, get the right parts to attain that goal otherwise things get damaged easily.

If you are just shooting for a 500rwhp street car which is a good usable street power, that is very achievable with a GE block with the right combination of other parts.


Finally bolted tranny to the engine





As I have said before, I always put extra wires on my harness so I already have them when I need some for sensors or whatever. Here you will see them. I just need to wrap them up since I don't need them for now.,

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Going through inspecting everything on this engine around one more time. If weather is good tomorrow and ain't too cold, it is going in...

irondonkey

you are going to drop it in yourself? wowwwww

can i have a flywheel? hahaha

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Man, there should be no reason why you cannot do it alone . Did it a couple of times.

Those flex flates are from SC400s ... NOT EXACTLY the same stud hole distances with that of a TT MKIV flex flate

PoGikoSc4

iTrader: (17)

Nice.... harness looks clean like always . I know it doesn't take 24hrs to do a gte swap, but you Mang Gerrb sure make it look fast and easy.

Btw, do you think I should replace my rear main seal also? I mean my motor been sittin on stand for more than a year now but its in my garage.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

LMAOL, are you crazy ..... 24 hrs to do a gte swap ? Easier said than done. I have seen shops or people who do it for a living take months or even more than a year just for plain stock swaps ..lol . There are always reasons along the way

No , don't touch those seals , they are in good shape. Too cold out there today. I could hardly feel my fingers and toes after 5 minutes... I will do something else rather than dropping the engine of Red Mamba.