gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Last night, while I was playing around with my IDLE tune on the AEM v2, I realized that my rear view mirror wasn't replaced yet from tan to black so decided to replace it. Why is it that we always learn the hard way ? I broke my windshield ... damnit !

So this morning , decided to pull the trigger parting out the platinum SC400 which is a very good running car so I can get all the parts I need for my red and black mamba projects . Sorry Mark, I know you were interested with it , but buddy I needed the whole AC setup/parts both from the engine bay and inside the cabin for the Black Mamba except the compressor. It is now on jackstands ready to be operated on. And some local guys have been pestering me for parts out of this car. In fact someone I knew was just here to pickup the bumper and the foglights. Anyway with a bad paint , people might not like it anyway if I sell it as a whole running car besides the interior was in terrible condition... no door panels , ripped front and back seats.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Its all good man. You need to do what you need to do nowadays. I appreciate you letting me know on here instead of calling me. Lol. Just kidding. Good luck parting it out. Thanks!!!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

My bad !!! I was just so busy the whole morning and mad at myself every time I see the windshield of the red mamba broken. So I just had to do what I had to do and I also needed the AC parts especially the lines .. you know the 1992 AC lines have their Freon Refill port on the compressor and that is not the case with 2jzgte compressors. That is the main reason, I needed the AC parts for my projects. The Red and Black Mambas are both 1992 .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I still have a lot of things to learn about Idle setup on AEM v2 . While I was working on setting my idle on the following rpms 600, 700, 800, 900, I was surprise how good the idle was at 600rpms with the 272 cams. And with 2433cc big as* injectors , getting it to idle at 600rpms should even be odd. The car didn't stall at all. I always thought it will be hard to idle an engine with bigger cams and worst so big injectors. Will continue to tune the IDLE in all the IDLE rpms and different parameters. Lots of work but I guess going through all the cells individually in as much as you can gives a better result instead of just interpolating.

On the later part of the video , you will see the car idling at 600rpms with those 272 cams / 2433cc injectors. I need to lean out a bit the fuel map and work on the other parameters that affect idel. Notice also how the the car started right away ... I guess am getting there with the start up / warm up maps . IF you spend time going through all the parameters / maps of your aftermarket ECU ... I don't see any reason why you can't have a good tune. But it really involves a lot of time and messing around on each parameter. You DON'T REALLY NEED the DYNO TO START WITH ... especially when you are working only on your startup / idle / cruise setups. Once you go for power then only at the dyno you will achieve the best results of tuning. Learning how to tune like the pros will save me a lot of money eventually . It will take time but I hope I get there.

http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/ge...d38e5.mp4.html

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Jerry take the other windshield out of the spare an put in on the red one. Just call SafeLite or a window company. It wont be much, I wouldnt think so.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Mark , will do , thanks ,

This morning while I was tinkering around with my tune , trying to practice what I have learned yesterday in the shop where a friend was tuning a couple of cars on the dyno . I thought of redoing the wiring for my twin IS300 fans.

I originally set them in such a way that Radiator Fan 1 comes on at coolant temp 175 degrees F triggered by the AEM LS2 and Radiator Fan 2 comes on joining Fan 1 at coolant temp 190 degrees F triggered by AEM LS12. That keeps my temperature to be always around 180 degrees F all the time regardless . But the fan are always on HIGH speed. Also observing the fans , while only one is on , since the other half of the shroud is open without the fan running , cooling I pressume isn't that effective on that part of the radiator.

Thus decided I should do this - > run BOTH FAN at around coolant temp 160 degrees F at LOW SPEED still triggered by LS2 ... meaning the fan are in series so fan noise is very low since they are running at 6v a piece but at the same time cooling both sides of the radiator. Then at 190degrees F , I will run them in a parallel mode still triggered by LS12 , receiving 12v each so they get into high speed.

To do this , I will use 4 relays with SPDT though only two of the SPDT will be used as such. Here is the diagram I came up with and hopefully it is good. If you guys find something wrong on the diagram, let me know..... of course will go over it again just to make sure things are all right lest I start fire ! Take note that on the battery wiring , I also had fuses before the relay switch.

EDIT : ooops .. I already missed something on the diagram , the right side of the coil on relay 4 should be connected to the + (battery).

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I guess taking a nap on sunday afternoon helps..

There are two major flaws I just noticed about the diagram above .

1) With AEM , when you use those LS or HS output switches .. make sure that the other end goes through the ignition switch to avoid all those gremlins on creeping through your ECU circuitry ... like you hear people not being able to restart the car again right away after turning it off and they have to disconnect the battery. .. you want to avoid any voltages getting to the ECU through the back door .

2) When LS12 on the diagram above is activated by AEM ,.. one of the fans goes into reverse mode or it goes to become a push fan since the polarity is inverted . I don't think I would like that. Besides , freaking fan is still rotating clockwise and suddenly the opposite voltage is applied... OH NO .

The following diagram is a lot simpler and better .. you only use three relays and takes care of the AEM requirement and what I wanted to do.. at 150degrees F , both fans are on low speed and at 190degrees F both fan are on HIGH speed . Well, I hope this time this one is good though again I will review once more . .. going over and over your electrical systems saves you a lot of headaches ..

Drew the physical pins of the relay as you see from the bottom of the relay instead of using a coil and single pole double throw switch on the diagram just to help those who are electrically challenged understand better if they want to do the wiring themselves if they want to follow such setup.

I am far from being a tuner.. but learning a lot in the past 2 saturdays I was working with a tuner trying to learn on the dyno .. tuning cars. After having tinkered around with three different ECUs since I have all the three , ProEFI , Haltech and AEM v2 .. I would say , AEM v2 is the easiest to get your car started and tuned, though it has the least features. It has no fail safes and flex fuel option for now and I know that will change as soon as the AEM v2 new firmware comes out. I have been lurking around the Infinity-10 software... a big improvement from the AEM v2. In spite of the improved features ..at this point , MY PERSONAL choice among the three is still the ProEFI ! Sorry , just my personal opinion .

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thanks for sharing this info man on the wiring. This kind of precise details of wiring is not usually found in any of the threads. I like to learn by other people's mistakes, not personally. Sometimes this is not at all how it goes. You have to live and learn.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Just trying to share the little I know man I have learned a lot from the forums so whatever way I can be of help , I will do the same.

It helps to have a diagram right in front of you . You will more likely be able to avoid costly mistakes in any wiring you do .

Just finished my relays for the twin IS300 fans . I decided to add another fuse right after the ignition switch and towards the 3 coils even if the ignition switched is preceded by a bigger fuse just to protect the ECU for any eventuality.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Since these relays will be installed near the radiator , I might as well install the relay for my NX N-tercooler cooling system together with these relays .

Decided to take out the front bumper to find a good place for these relays and at the same time replace the plastic fog lights from the 1992 with the glass foglights that are coming from the 97+ model





glass foglights in they look a lot cleaner ...

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Been working on my Cold Start and Idle Tune and corresponding AFR for a while now.. experimenting and trying to get the best numbers best on my setup. They are almost spot on now. The car fires right up and idles good. I can actually go down to 700rpm without getting the car to stall for my idle but I will leave it at 800rpm. It was always said that injectors which open and closes with less than 1ms pulse width are hard to idle since before they are fully opened, they are closing out... these Siemens Deka IV 2433cc injectors are so good at my 800rpm idle with 272 cams and less than 1ms pulse width at almost perfect 14.5:1 AFR at idle. If you check my fuel map , at idle I am actually at .8ms pulse width.

Wiring on my IS300 fans are good. They start working once my coolant temp is around 150degreesF at a slow speed. In the 1 hour I was working around my tune , temperature didn't even go up to 190degreesF so they didn't have to go to high speed. Decided to stop using the OEM fuel pump ecu for the Denso Pump. Instead, I used the AEM LS9 and LS11 to fire up the Denso and Weldon based on boost / engine speed.

Am beginning to appreciate and enjoy working around tuning a car... been learning a lot ! If I was able to put together this car , I don't see any reason why I cannot eventually be able to do all my tune . It may take time trying to learn but will get there especially once I am done learning what I have to learn in the dyno shop through the help of a friend. I really find tuning an AEM v2 a lot easier since it is pulse width based compared to VE based with the ProEFI and Haltech.

It is really surprising how these Siemens are so good at idle even if they are huge. If you check the injector duty on the fuel map channels . At idle , not even 1% .

PoGikoSc4

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the update Sir Gerrb!! I guess youre coming close to actually gettin the red mamba on the street. Also maybe you should open up a garage cuz youre getting PRO at this haha.. keep us posted..

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have already started driving it around the block... trying to work on my cruise tune this afternoon.

Oh no ..... I will be happy working on my cars and helping friends but working on other people cars for pay .. nah...that is not something I want to do on my free time. Tinkering with cars will remain a hobby for me.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

WOOOSH... that's a relief, cause I am broke.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Well ... have always been broke since I set my eyes on these 2jz cars.

As soon as I am confident and proficient in tuning my cars with the 3 different ECUs I have , I will try to help friends who needs to get things going with their ECUs. I know how expensive it is to get these tune even with slight modifications. I will help in as much as I can. I will first try to be proficient with this AEM v2 , then reinstall the PROefi and learn how to tune using the proEFI on this red mamba too. Haltech PS200, I can't use it on my red mamba since it doesn't support the auto tranny. I will learn on the supra with that ECU or when the black mamba is ready.

Here is a video of my IDLE at 800rpm with my IACV at around 18% duty , AFR at 14.5 , injector duty at 0.8% , Engine load at 5.5PSIg , coolant temp at 187F and air temp at 90F. The car fires right up at cold starts and drives smoothly around the block without hiccups and at good AFRs.

http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/ge...b0054.mp4.html