project:Soarer
08-18-12, 08:58 AM
#331
so i got some o-rings most of them don't fit. but you can't go wrong with 5 bucks.
[media]http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t493/supersayianjim2/project%20scorer%202/newacorings.jpg[/media]
so heres some pics and comparisons of the sc300 condensor from a 94 and from a earlier model(with the red o-rings).
the 94 can is on the right
and here's the condensor, looks the same but really not.
[media]http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t493/supersayianjim2/project%20scorer%202/newacorings.jpg[/media]
so heres some pics and comparisons of the sc300 condensor from a 94 and from a earlier model(with the red o-rings).
the 94 can is on the right
and here's the condensor, looks the same but really not.
08-18-12, 09:06 AM
#332
and heres the ports that go directly to the firewall. you see the difference. looks similar. but no no no.
well i was wroking on gently and carefully
bending the ac pipes to fit.
kinks are bad for business.
the pita was getting these pipes around the intercooler pipes. And here they are buttoned up.
well i was wroking on gently and carefully
bending the ac pipes to fit.
kinks are bad for business.
the pita was getting these pipes around the intercooler pipes. And here they are buttoned up.
08-18-12, 09:18 AM
#333
well iam not done hoooking up the lines,and don't know if there are leaks yet. and have to replace the condensor neck. but what have we learned so far.
-sc400 lines with a 2jz swap of any kind will work to an extent
-you must use your same year condensor lines to make it work. you can use the same condensor and firewall port. but if in a sc400 you need the 300 lines from the condensor to the firewall.
this was a pita but almost over.
now in other news.
so ive been all over the place trying to get this damn car situated. finally got it running and the engine in. so took a test drive in this vid. heres was the status during shooting
-not sure if o2 sensor was hooked up. i spliced it to make it longer so maybe i effed up on that
-no downpipe off the turbo/no exhaust
-no hood
-stock fuel pump
-hc1/hx35 with a super laggy 18cfm hotside
feels like it's slow as shat. i didn't get into 5th gear. but there was just no "oh ****" pull
iam thinking i might have a wastegate port plugged that shouldn't be plugged??
-sc400 lines with a 2jz swap of any kind will work to an extent
-you must use your same year condensor lines to make it work. you can use the same condensor and firewall port. but if in a sc400 you need the 300 lines from the condensor to the firewall.
this was a pita but almost over.
now in other news.
so ive been all over the place trying to get this damn car situated. finally got it running and the engine in. so took a test drive in this vid. heres was the status during shooting
-not sure if o2 sensor was hooked up. i spliced it to make it longer so maybe i effed up on that
-no downpipe off the turbo/no exhaust
-no hood
-stock fuel pump
-hc1/hx35 with a super laggy 18cfm hotside
feels like it's slow as shat. i didn't get into 5th gear. but there was just no "oh ****" pull
iam thinking i might have a wastegate port plugged that shouldn't be plugged??
08-19-12, 06:51 AM
#336
off the top of my head thats like a 1.2x a/r turbine housing. On a stock 1jz thats horrible. In comparison, my he341 holset can spool 10psi off the gate at like 3000 rpms with a cracked manifold. seriously reconsider your turbo, you will hate your car if you do not. A regular hx35 with 12cm housing can be had for like $200. An hy35 with the 9cm housing will be even quicker to spool and flow nearly the same and is a great street car turbo. I love the holsets. I thinbk the one on my gf's car is about to go out, but I bought it used off a cummins with unknown miles and put prob 40k hard miles on it, over 20k at 10-17psi with no bov. Saw 17 yesterday
08-19-12, 02:24 PM
#338
1JZ Single SC400
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
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This AC has kicked his butt.. I dont know why his is much more difficult than mine with the same swap. I used SC300 lines from the fireewall to the compressor, I just changed the o rings and receiver dryer, and had it charged. No leaks or anything..
Hang in there man...
08-19-12, 03:03 PM
#339
off the top of my head thats like a 1.2x a/r turbine housing. On a stock 1jz thats horrible. In comparison, my he341 holset can spool 10psi off the gate at like 3000 rpms with a cracked manifold. seriously reconsider your turbo, you will hate your car if you do not. A regular hx35 with 12cm housing can be had for like $200. An hy35 with the 9cm housing will be even quicker to spool and flow nearly the same and is a great street car turbo. I love the holsets. I thinbk the one on my gf's car is about to go out, but I bought it used off a cummins with unknown miles and put prob 40k hard miles on it, over 20k at 10-17psi with no bov. Saw 17 yesterday
is that theres like never a response or takes forever to get an answer to things. i asked about the flow of this particular housing before
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160862296038...84.m1438.l2648
and of course none answered me. i know there are 17,000 1jz threads on here now. but if you have some useful input AFTER I PAYED FOR THE DAMN PART. Save me some coin next time and shoot me an answer before i buy parts...
kthanksbye
08-19-12, 05:10 PM
#340
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
you know what i hate about club lexus. aside from the fact that the damn pages take forever to load.
is that theres like never a response or takes forever to get an answer to things. i asked about the flow of this particular housing before
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160862296038...84.m1438.l2648
and of course none answered me. i know there are 17,000 1jz threads on here now. but if you have some useful input AFTER I PAYED FOR THE DAMN PART. Save me some coin next time and shoot me an answer before i buy parts...
kthanksbye
is that theres like never a response or takes forever to get an answer to things. i asked about the flow of this particular housing before
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160862296038...84.m1438.l2648
and of course none answered me. i know there are 17,000 1jz threads on here now. but if you have some useful input AFTER I PAYED FOR THE DAMN PART. Save me some coin next time and shoot me an answer before i buy parts...
kthanksbye
08-19-12, 07:12 PM
#341
you asked me if it fit an h1c, and I told you I didn't know and told you to contact someone who would. And now you're mad at me? Can't rely on this place for all your info man. Like seriously, this is the last palce I'd look for this stuff or most anything else engine/drivetrain related. Google will bring up almost anything you'd want to kno about anything. it's up to you to go through and weed out the bs. Before I chose which holset I wanted to go with, I spent hours upon hours reading through dsm and honda sites trying to figure out what would suit my goals with my particular setup. They were using these turbos long before most people. That's how I decided what direction I wanted to go instead of hearing "holset kicks ***", and spending money on the first one I saw on my local craigslist
08-20-12, 08:09 AM
#343
Calm down man... It sometimes takes several days for someone with the correct answer to chime in and answer your question directly. Sometimes shorter. I used all the parts from a 1993 SC300 from the firewall to the compressor. I had to bend one line for the intercooler piping was in the way, plus its is 3 inch around. I used the stock 1JZ compressor and the lines bolted right up, remember that I also replaced all the orings while I had it apart. I replaced the receiver dryer while I had the system broke down. Its all good now. I also had to figure out the wiring for it to come on with the climate control. Got that figured out. Works flawlessly now. If you only knew how long it took me to have some of my questions answered on here. Jim, more than likely there is an answer for your direct question, but you cant find it. I dont know. PM me or call if you still cant figure it out man. We are here to help you...
What do you mean the climate control didn't work??
08-20-12, 09:38 AM
#344
max, please do not post out of frustration acting like i didn't post that you purchased the worst possible turbo ever made for your 1jz. i believe your rationale for the purchase was "it only cost me 100 beans."
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
Last edited by cartmill; 08-20-12 at 09:51 AM.
08-20-12, 10:15 AM
#345
max, please do not post out of frustration acting like i didn't post that you purchased the worst possible turbo ever made for your 1jz. i believe your rationale for the purchase was "it only cost me 100 beans."
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
2. if you haven't seen it i corrected that earlier mistake and got the proper fitting t3 mainfold. it's on the car now and no need for an adapter spacer anymore.
so you are saying the link that i supplied. there would be less lag than the 16cfm housung i have now??
4. i drilled out my oil pan when it was removed when i was cleaning everything up(iam not that much of a noob).
5. yes i did fill the tranny with the specified quarts through the shifter turret
6. yes i do have the wideband hooked up, and i do have stock injectors with stock ecu.