Paint Coating Exact Steps
08-30-16, 10:28 AM
#16
So, because I love my RX so much, and because I am planning on keeping it for a long time, I gave my RX to a professional for a Full Body Paint Protection Film. Yep, you read that right...full body. Unfortunately, it turns out the RX is too "edgy," can you believe that?!?! 
My installer had to have three other installers from all around Cincinnati to try and get the film to wrap around edges and stick. Turns out, there is no way to lay film on the doors and rear 3/4 panel without some really ugly cut lines. And that step in the tailgate (below the window and around the emblem)...forget about it!!!
So, turns out Paint Coatings are the best way to go. I got Suntek (originally wanted XPEL but was convinced otherwise) film on the full front hood, full front fenders, grille slats, silver trim around grille, headlights, fog lights, mirrors, A-Pillar, leading edge of roof, door sills, door handle cups, door edges, and full rear bumper. AND (pertinent to this thread), I had the entire car and wheels coated with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Professional. As Kitlz said, the prep work is a pain. Since I wanted the car decontaminated (IronX, claybar, minor paint correction) before the film was installed, I went ahead and let the professional clean it up to film and coat the car. Pictures to come soon!!!
My installer had to have three other installers from all around Cincinnati to try and get the film to wrap around edges and stick. Turns out, there is no way to lay film on the doors and rear 3/4 panel without some really ugly cut lines. And that step in the tailgate (below the window and around the emblem)...forget about it!!!So, turns out Paint Coatings are the best way to go. I got Suntek (originally wanted XPEL but was convinced otherwise) film on the full front hood, full front fenders, grille slats, silver trim around grille, headlights, fog lights, mirrors, A-Pillar, leading edge of roof, door sills, door handle cups, door edges, and full rear bumper. AND (pertinent to this thread), I had the entire car and wheels coated with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Professional. As Kitlz said, the prep work is a pain. Since I wanted the car decontaminated (IronX, claybar, minor paint correction) before the film was installed, I went ahead and let the professional clean it up to film and coat the car. Pictures to come soon!!!
he's one of the best in the business.
08-30-16, 10:49 AM
#17
I really like the work that Todd does and from what I've seen, he is really good. But, Todd is about 20 minutes east of Columbus, Ohio and I bought my car from Cincinnati. It would be too long of a drive and I'd be risking putting rock chips on my fresh paint. And, three of the best installers in Cincinatti could not figure out how to perform a clean install.
It wasn't that the car could not be wrapped in film, rather that there would have too be too many release cuts to adhere properly. He specifically mentioned the area on the front doors around the mirror which has quite a few creases when I really had a look at it. My options were either have a lot of cut lines, take the mirror off and install the film (no thanks), or ceramic coating. I picked the coating. He said everything was manageable expect for the doors, rear fender, and under the back window on the tailgate.
Oh well... this is still more protection than any of my other cars.
It wasn't that the car could not be wrapped in film, rather that there would have too be too many release cuts to adhere properly. He specifically mentioned the area on the front doors around the mirror which has quite a few creases when I really had a look at it. My options were either have a lot of cut lines, take the mirror off and install the film (no thanks), or ceramic coating. I picked the coating. He said everything was manageable expect for the doors, rear fender, and under the back window on the tailgate.
Oh well... this is still more protection than any of my other cars.
08-30-16, 01:21 PM
#18
No, I don't play soccer!
Too bad Curryolla. Someone in the 3RX forum did theirs and the cost was north of $5K. And even that doesn't guarantee protection against all rock chips and still needs maintenance. So look at it this way, you saved yourself lots of money for future details and chip repairs. Where's the pictures?
08-30-16, 02:09 PM
#19
Too bad Curryolla. Someone in the 3RX forum did theirs and the cost was north of $5K. And even that doesn't guarantee protection against all rock chips and still needs maintenance. So look at it this way, you saved yourself lots of money for future details and chip repairs. Where's the pictures?
Right now, the film plus coating is quoted at $3k, so $2k worth of savings, I guess. I wish I had pictures, but I could not pick up the car today. Looks like it I'll be getting it back on Friday...
Last edited by Curryolla; 08-31-16 at 07:50 AM.
09-10-16, 11:08 AM
#21
09-10-16, 02:36 PM
#23
Why, thank you! I'm a fan of earthy tones and tend to stick to Green, Blue, Brown, and Grey. Not sure what to get next...but Atomic Silver and Nightfall Mica are interesting Lexus colors. The biggest reason I picked Autumn Shimmer was for the wheel inserts. Just makes the car look cool!
09-12-16, 10:11 AM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Washington
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Regarding the self-healing paint on the 2016 RX. I've heard various opinions regarding whether to use a clay bar or not. The owner's manual says specifically: "Do not use wax that contain abrasives". Clay would be considered an abrasive.
Should clay be avoided? Also, I assume it is fine to apply a paint coating, but was wondering if it would have any negative impact on the self-healing paint layer.
Should clay be avoided? Also, I assume it is fine to apply a paint coating, but was wondering if it would have any negative impact on the self-healing paint layer.
09-12-16, 10:56 AM
#25
No, I don't play soccer!
astyles, my'16 RXh has suffered no ill effects from two layers of 22PLE HPC. The self healing paint doesn't last forever. According to the manual the lifespan is between five and eight years. Waxing is recommended. Coating brings it to another level IMO. You can try using Sonax Fallout Cleaner to get rid of most of the contaminants clay normally picks up. Now I did a light clay with Nanoskin followed by Megs 205 applied by hand. I wanted to make sure the surface was prepped properly. After coating, the RX has a glossier appearance. And I know it's protected.
09-12-16, 11:10 AM
#26
Detailing clay is not an abrasive. The particles it picks up can turn it into an abrasive substance, but a clay bar will not remove any paint material like a compound or polish will. When used properly, a fine grade or ultra fine grade clay bar will not harm your vehicle, so use as needed to remove contamination from your paint.
09-15-16, 02:16 AM
#27
Detailing clay is not an abrasive. The particles it picks up can turn it into an abrasive substance, but a clay bar will not remove any paint material like a compound or polish will. When used properly, a fine grade or ultra fine grade clay bar will not harm your vehicle, so use as needed to remove contamination from your paint.
09-15-16, 05:40 AM
#28
No, the only way to remove a ceramic coating is with an abrasive (polish, compound, or sandpaper).
Detailing clay can be used as needed to remove bonded surface contaminants from the coating, though you will probably find that the vehicle does not need to be clayed nearly as often after the coating has been applied as it will resist dirt and contamination much better than traditional waxes or sealants. In fact, on my own cars, I am able to keep the vehicle nearly contaminant free with only ironx. I will clay the car every other year or so before I polish and apply a new layer of coating.
You can find more information in my article:
Maintaining Your Paint Coating by Zach McGovern
Detailing clay can be used as needed to remove bonded surface contaminants from the coating, though you will probably find that the vehicle does not need to be clayed nearly as often after the coating has been applied as it will resist dirt and contamination much better than traditional waxes or sealants. In fact, on my own cars, I am able to keep the vehicle nearly contaminant free with only ironx. I will clay the car every other year or so before I polish and apply a new layer of coating.
You can find more information in my article:
Maintaining Your Paint Coating by Zach McGovern
09-15-16, 10:26 AM
#29
No, I don't play soccer!
^Definitely agree on the cleaner part post coating. For some reason when I first got the RXh, dirt stuck like glue on the surface. The shelf on the tailgate was always filthy. Washing it was not fun. There was a huge difference after decontamination and 22PLE application. The surface looks and feels much better. Plus no more dirt trap on the tailgate. I'll hit it later this year with Sonax Fallout Cleaner before applying another coat of sealant. I have VS1 and Reload to choose from.
09-15-16, 10:38 AM
#30
I've done so much testing with coatings it isn't even funny.... one of the tests I have done in the past is to put a piece of tape down the middle of my hood. Apply a paint coating to one half and a traditional sealant to the other half. Without a doubt, the coating resists dirt much better, and therefore keeps the paint looking cleaner for longer periods of time.
I've been experimenting with paint coatings for the past 5 years, and I will never go back to traditional waxes or sealants on my personal vehicles.
I've been experimenting with paint coatings for the past 5 years, and I will never go back to traditional waxes or sealants on my personal vehicles.