aznkorboi

Hello, coming to this forum makes me realize how little I know about paint and protective coatings. I have been looking through the topics and doing my own research but I seem to cannot find one definitive answer.

I have a new car. Came from the factory. I used Iron X to spray down any contaminants. Used a clay bar to remove anything that may have landed from transport to delivery. Used Jet Sealant. Then, for over kill, went on to use Ultimate Wax. That has been the extent of it. I also have xpeul ultimate on the full front of the car, door cups, a-pillars, and the door edges.

I had the car for a few months now. It sits outside everyday. For this reason, I wash my car every two weeks. I also add a layer of Jet Sealant once a month. I always feel for any imperfections on the paint and have used the new Nanoscrub (clay bar alternative) once.

Recently, my dog's claw scratched the back rear bumper. I thought the clear coat would take care of it but it did not. The scratch DOES go away immediately when using something like wax or Chemical Guys Black light or Jet Sealant.

After reading the forums, talking with Zach, I am realizing that I should have done a ceramic coating immediately. I know it is not too late but the information is so overwhelming!

My question to you all is: What is the exact steps to take to apply a ceramic coating like CCPRO to the vehicle? I would like to apply the ccPRO in about three months with a covered garage. It will be much cooler by then so that would effect curing times.

1. The paint is new with no scratches except the dog scratch on the rear bumper. Hopefully it stays that way.
2. Are the steps:
Wash with dish wash soap to remove any wax/sealants
Decontaminate (Iron x)
Nano Scrub/ Clay bar
Compound vs Polish the rear bumper scratch until completely gone? I was thinking of just using Ultimate Polish, not sure if I should be using an abrasives as the manual states not to on the clear coat?
Apply CCQuartz to the non clear bra parts.

THANKS!

Curryolla

So...let me just start by stating that I am not a professional, and I think professionals here would be best to answer your questions. However, I too have done some research and found that Coatings are great, but not perfect.

Coatings do not prevent scratches and swirl marks. They act like a clear coat on top of your paint and act as a hydrophobic, dirt repellent layer. But, if your car was to get scratched, it would still have to be polished, compounded, or wet sanded to remove the defect. Basically, you would be polishing the coating and not the clear coat.

Make sure you get the right coating. Some require a professional to install (they dry quicker) and others can be installed by ordinary people. I think the Professionals use something called Cquarts Finest, but the DIY version is called CarPro CQuarts UK Edition. This is easier to install, remove and does not leave an uneven, bumpy surface. From some other forums online "If you do not have a lot of experience in applying coatings, you can actually waste a ton of product and cause yourself more work. From its fast curing time and leaving yourself high spots that have to be buffed off afterwards then reapplying the product. If you wipe it at the incorrect time you will cause the panel to haze up, which again, means you have to buff the whole panel and retry the application."

It sounds like your process is spot on. I am a big fan of Nanoskin Autoscrub Clay Sponge products. I would add maybe one step of doing an IPA wipe down to further remove waxes, oils, etc. In fact, CarPro recommends using their CarPro Eraser product to do the same thing. This would be done after any polishing or paint correction.

As for the RX, I can't tell you how much I worry about this self restoring clear coat stuff!!! I just don't understand the do's and don'ts. It just does not make sense. Some heavy scratches will not self heal, that is a given. And from what I have read, and talking to professionals, removing deeper scratches can be a pain. The compound will scratch the self restoring layer and some of it will heal and the rest will not. It requires a lot of attention. You would have to feather out your polishing, or something like that. That is what the Professionals tell me. I personally have never been comfortable with paint correction.

Finally, if you are going to install a coating, go ahead and apply it over the paint protection film. It will protect the film from organic compounds that are usually the cause of yellowing film. And, I've seen some great results with that. Also, don't forget to coat the trim and glass as well, but with a different product. And gets some CarPro Reload after you put the coating and use it like a spray wax after maintenance washing.

Once again, I am NOT a professional, and my knowledge is very limited on the topic, but I was interested in the tread and wanted to give my 2 cents (more like yarn and some lint ) Curious to see what others have to say...

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...e-them-a-shot/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ur-coated-car/
http://www.detailedimage.com/CarPro-...P923/30-ml-S1/

aznkorboi

haha thanks! Yes, another member klitz just did theirs with 22ple. So THATS what IPA is the car pro eraser spray. Got it.

Now you are making me afraid to use a polish on the car. So on the spot with the scratch, it should be ok to polish that small area with light circular strokes ? That would ideally remove the scratch? THEN, use IPA.

Thanks for the tips!

Curryolla

Here is my best judgement. If you are trying to fix the scratch by hand, I'm not sure the results will be great. I'd use a dual action polisher if you have one. Personally, I'm always afraid to use a dual action polisher. There are just so many products (ultrafine, fine, coarse, rubbing compound, etc.) and pads (microfiber cutting pad, thin disc foam, thick disc foam, etc.) I honestly can tell you I do not know the right combination for the size and depth of your scratch. If it is too deep, you might need some touch up paint. Easy way to tell is to drag you finger nail across the scratch. If it catches, you need to use a compound followed by a lighter polish. I'm not skilled enough to tell you what to do here.

Within the Meguiar's professional line, I'd guess (again, this is a guess) with Meguiar's 205 (less coarse than 105) and a microfiber cutting pad. If that does not cut enough, I'd try Meguiar's 105 with a microfiber cutting pad. Keep this stage around the scratch. Then polish the fine scratches out with soft foam cutting buffing pad and Meguiar's 105. This should be feathered out slightly further away from the scratch. At least, that is what I've read and heard. After this, you can wash the car again or just go straight to IPA.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...P388/32-oz-S1/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...P389/32-oz-S1/

Polishing is so complicated that I refuse to ever do it on my own cars!!! I have read so much and watched so many videos but I still don't have the guts to take a dual action polisher to my car, especially my soon to arrive RX 450h!!!

By the way, IPA stands for Iso-Propyl Alcohol or Rubbing Alcohol, like from Walmart or CVS! I always wipe my car down with a 50/50 mix of IPA and DI water before I apply a new coat of sealant. CarPro Eraser just does the same thing.

I personally don't care for hard ceramic or glass coatings on my car. According to Larry Kosilla, "paint is like skin". It needs to breath and will shrink and expand with changes in temperature. Larry has his own line of products and I'm planning on trying one called Reflex. https://www.ammonyc.com/shop/ammo-re...undation-coat/ This stuff can be applied over all surfaces on the car. For my car, the plan is to have Reflex as the base coat. Then put 3M Performance Finish Synthetic Wax above that. And then use Meguiar's X-Press Synthetic Spray Wax after every maintenance wash. Glass coatings are no walk in the park...be mindful of dried up and crystallized bits.
But, keep me posted on what you end up doing. And post pictures of the final product!!!

Hopefully someone with a little more knowledge than me will give their thoughts. Detailing can be a very controversial topic...

aznkorboi

Will do!! I'll post some pics of the minor scratch. Gonna detail my car again on Monday! #excited

kitlz

Good luck azn. Curryolla is right on the money with Meguiars 105/205. It can be applied by hand which makes it even easier to use. To give you an idea of how effective it can be, I used one of them to take out fingernail scratches around a door handle on a relative's car. It worked like a charm. Using a polisher like the Porter Cable isn't hard. Rupes also makes a few. Less time than the PC and, dare I say, enjoyable to polish with. But it's time consuming and requires taping up the chrome to avoid damaging it. You don't need to go there unless you've been washing with brillo pads, LOL!.

aznkorboi

hahah. Will do. I tried to prevent any scratches I could without spending a fortune on a full body xpel ultimate treatment. and yet my good ol golden retriever HAD to jump up and scratch my bumper.. I'm planning on trying scratch x to buff it out. I heard its a polish and it works to remove fine scratches. Then follow it with chemical guys black light, then jet seal, then ultimate wax.

Curryolla

Scratch X is more aggressive than Ultimate Polish. If your finger nail catches on the scratch when you LIGHTLY drag your nail across it, then go with Scratch X. Then follow up with Swirl X or Ultimate Polish. Otherwise, you will want Swirl X and/or Ultimate Polish. One of the biggest issues I have with polishing my car is residue control. My pad gets gummed up too quickly. I have to keep wiping it off with a microfiber towel. I've also noticed a lot of people don't work in the product long enough. The paste/liquid polish should become dust. With polish, less is more.

Chemical Guys Black Light, Jet Seal, and Ultimate Wax will hide the scratch and swirls, but they will not fix the scratch. Unless the scratch is completely removed, it will show up again as the waxes wear off. You also will not be able apply the coating over those waxes. So make sure it is 100% fixed before applying the coating.

Kitlz, how do you apply your polish by hand? Do you use a Meguiar's Yellow Foam pad, or a microfiber pad? Small circular motions? 2x2 feet areas at a time? Just curious.

aznkorboi

Oh ok got it. I'll do a test on Monday to see.

aznkorboi

So I haven't checked the scratch in a while... Got it a few weeks ago. If I remember correctly, it did not catch on finger when I ran over it.

Anyways, after washing the car today I couldn't find the scratch..... Maybe the clear coat works after all.

BTW, what does "soft" paint mean? There seems to be ripples in the paint. I noticed it before but was wondering why? Is it the clear coat? Is it meant to be that way?

Anyways, MIRROR LIFE.

Washed car
Nano Scrubbed
Black Light
Jet Seal

When I have a garage in November, I'll be doing that 22ple coating!

Curryolla

If your finger did not catch, then the self restoring coating should theoretically fix it because it did not reach the color, primer, or substrate! This is the best kind, and most fixable type of scratch.

What is soft paint? Simple answer, it is paint that is easy to remove defects like swirls and marring. It requires less aggressive polishes, compounds, methods. Check these out:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...OeDmhralVhk.97
https://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/ho...int-acura-nsx/

The waves or ripples you refer to is called orange peel. Admittedly, I am not that bothered by it but some people absolutely hate it. Check these out:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_peel_(effect)
https://www.ammonyc.com/detailing/3-...-peel-by-hand/

Got to say, those reflections are amazing, but I did cringe after looking at the first photo. Is that a wash mitt touching the curb?!?!?

aznkorboi

Haha wow. Did not know about the orange peel. Do all the RX's have them? wiki said it is due to improper paint techniques.


Haha. It's my wheel wash mitt!! I let my chemical guys wash mitt dry on top of a bucket.

Oh, and what is your view on microfiber wash mitts vs sheep skin? Thanks!

Curryolla

Not sure about other RX's, but every car I have has orange peel. It is mainly due to the chemistry now used to paint cars. Due to regulations and environmental concerns (VOCs), car paints are now all water based which is why pretty much everything has orange peel. In addition, manufacturing processes and timetables don't allow for all cars to be free of orange peel. The clear coat would have too be wet sanded and then polished on every car that comes out of the factory. I doubt Lexus would be able to spit out a new RX every minute with that much work having to be done. This type of attention is reserved for Rolls Royce and Bentley!

Oh thank goodness that is your wheel wash mitt!!!

I say Microfiber wash mitts all the way!!! Sheepskin is just too darn expensive. I have four cars to maintain and need wash mitts that last a long time. From what I have read, Sheepskin wash mitts are not that friendly in the washing machine and tend to fall apart quickly. That said, I actually use six wash mitts to wash my car (don't judge me, hear me out). I have one for the window line up, one for the body side molding to window line, one for the body side molding to the lower rocker panel, one for under the rocker panel and the lip around the wheel arches, one for stubborn dirt like road tar and tree sap, and lastly, one for my wheels, wheel wells and engine bay. Phew!

When my upper wash mitts get old, I just rotate around and throw out the older ones...

kitlz

Looks good, azn. Glad to hear the scratch healed itself. I was going to say maybe you should get a cat but I don't want to be accused of being a dog hater, LOL!

BTW, I've applied Megs by foam applicator and PC. I can't remember which color pads, maybe orange or tangerine for 105 and black for 205. And MF wash mitts work best for me. Only the one for the wheels have the 'noodles.' The four for the paint are more like towels. They're not heavy after dunking in the bucket. I got them from Einszett. A little pricey but they hold up well.

Which version of 22PLE are you going with? The 30 ml bottle is good for one coat. Go with 50 ml if you're doing two. There's other stuff to get too, Zach pretty much covers it in this thread. The other thing is MF towels, maybe three or four. They will have to be thrown away after application.

Curryolla

So, because I love my RX so much, and because I am planning on keeping it for a long time, I gave my RX to a professional for a Full Body Paint Protection Film. Yep, you read that right...full body. Unfortunately, it turns out the RX is too "edgy," can you believe that?!?! My installer had to have three other installers from all around Cincinnati to try and get the film to wrap around edges and stick. Turns out, there is no way to lay film on the doors and rear 3/4 panel without some really ugly cut lines. And that step in the tailgate (below the window and around the emblem)...forget about it!!!

So, turns out Paint Coatings are the best way to go. I got Suntek (originally wanted XPEL but was convinced otherwise) film on the full front hood, full front fenders, grille slats, silver trim around grille, headlights, fog lights, mirrors, A-Pillar, leading edge of roof, door sills, door handle cups, door edges, and full rear bumper. AND (pertinent to this thread), I had the entire car and wheels coated with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Professional. As Kitlz said, the prep work is a pain. Since I wanted the car decontaminated (IronX, claybar, minor paint correction) before the film was installed, I went ahead and let the professional clean it up to film and coat the car. Pictures to come soon!!!