LazarusLng

I have recently purchased a 2004 RX330. It is Black. There are some stone chips, and some poor touch-up work going on on the hood. Paint has lots of swirls. I would like to make it look as good as a 10 year old paint job can look.

I have read up a little on the subject, but I'm not sure which products I should use and what order to use them. I haven't seen a good detail schedule for a 10 year old paint job anywhere.

I have purchased a Mcguires clay bar kit and some wax. I was reading that Mcguires #7 mirror glaze is a non-abrasive polish. I'm thinking that I should stay away from abrasive polishes, but I really don't know.. There are just way too many products out there to be able to make a reasonable decision on what to use. Any advise is greatly appreciated!

jfelbab

I'd start with a good two bucket wash and follow with the clay. I'd use a dual-action polisher like those from Porter-Cable, Griots, Meguiar's, etc, and some microfiber pads as well as some foam polishing pads. It is a good idea to use products that won't leave white residue in the paint chips. I'd likely use a medium compound like Meguiar's #205 to begin the polishing. If you have not done machine polishing before and don't own a DA and the products, look up a good detailer in your area and let them do the heavy lifting. You then can just divert your attention to maintaining the vehicle's appearance. Also since you don't know the history of the paint, It would be good if the detailer you choose has a paint thickness gauge to avoid damage.

User 41924

I'm NOT a professional, but I have been doing my own cars for a pretty long time, and I've learned from a lot of my mistakes (but not ALL of them!).

If you want to eliminate the swirls you're going to need abrasives, and it's going to be pretty hard to do without a polisher. Honestly, I personally wouldn't even try. If you aren't really interested in making that investment, I would find a detailer as jfelbab suggests, and explain that you aren't looking for perfection. Just something that looks good from 15 feet, but can't hide the flaws up close. The rock chips are what would bother me the most. I have read that Dr. ColorChip is pretty good, and matches Lexus paint really well. Langka was strongly recommended to me, but I thought it was horrible. I think it was user error. In the end, I wouldn't worry about them a lot. Just do your best, polish the rest of the car, and be happy with what you have.

If you're interested in getting into detailing a little bit, buy a Porter Cable DA polisher, some orange and white pads, some "swirl remover", a good polish, a bottle of sealer, and go to work. It's a learning process, but there are lots of web sites that will help with basic instruction, and the folks on this site are really knowledgeable and helpful. I would think that working on 10 year old paint would provide an excellent opportunity to develop your technique/skills, and the results might surprise you.

Just remember there is a reason we pay good detailers, and they earn every penny we pay them! It takes time and a fair amount of effort to care for your paint ..... not to mention the cost of microfiber, polishers, pads, and product. Most importantly, technique matters. Even more than product! Mostly, good technique comes with experience and education. Detailers earn the money we pay them, but if you're interested, I personally believe that taking care of your own cars is exceptionally satisfying!

LazarusLng

Thanks for the replies. Im a woodworker, and have done plenty of finishing. I know its not exactly the same, but I'm confident that I can handle a polisher. So start with a good wash, then clay, then a polish with #205, and finish with a good wax?

rustyd

Find a good sealant, they last longer than wax. Steps are...Wash, Clay, Compound, polish, Seal...Wax if wanted.

jfelbab

Some random thoughts. When polishing paint you need to work clean and constantly clean the pads. At least after every panel if not more often, I'd suggest using an air compressor to blow out the pads.

A note about paint thickness... Automotive paint is VERY thin, about as thick as a piece of printer paper. The paint is in three distinct layers. The ecoat/primer, the base coat and the clear coat. Typically, the ecoat is about 2 mil thick. the base coat another 2 mil and the clear coat maybe 3 mil. A mil is 25 microns. It is only safe to remove up to .5 mil (12 microns) of the clear coat in the lifetime of the car. 1 micron is 0.001 inch. As you can tell from the thinness of the paint film, only a very small amount of the clear coat can be safely removed before you will be in trouble. Since you are working on paint that may already have been heavily polished in the past, you don't know what's safe for polishing and what may lead to problems. This is where a paint thickness gauge comes in.

Finally, like woodworking, polishing paint is not rocket science but it is a developed talent to do it well.

Some final thoughts. You might wish to see what the car looks like if you use a cleaner/wax type product after claying. You may be happy with the result. If you do choose to polish, use products and pads in their least aggressive forms first and only step up to more aggressive products if needed. Work slow and clean, and take your time. Lastly, don't over-polish trying to achieve that last 5% of perfection. If you burn through the clear coat, the only remedy is a repaint and the price of that mistake is high. I don't say all this to scare you off but to encourage you to take it slow and to be cautious.

I'd also suggest that after you finish you look to applying a sealant, or maybe even a coating, rather than a wax if you want better durability and longer lasting protection.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Hi LazarusLng... first, it is great that you're wanting to get your vehicle's paint into great shape. Allow me to first list out some of the basic steps for a complete exterior detailing process, then I will elaborate with some photos and descriptions to help with the overall understanding of each step.


A major exterior detail will consist of several parts... cleaning, decontamination, paint correction, paint protection, and misc. smaller tasks. The general order of this process is as follows (note: I am not mentioning engine cleaning or interior work)...

• Clean Tires
• Clean Wheels
• Wash Vehicle (using 2 bucket method)
• Decontminate Paint
• Paint Correction (this process will vary depending on the condition of your paint and will be the most time consuming part of the overall process)
• Paint Protection (traditionally a natural wax or synthetic sealant is used)
• Misc. Details such as dressing tires, cleaning glass, polishing exhaust tips, etc.

Cleaning
Let's start with the cleaning process.... When this cleaning process is done incorrectly, it is what creates most of the swirls and other minor defects in the paint. It is important to begin with the wheels and tires, and then proceed with washing the paint afterwards. Please CLICK HERE to read about the proper 3 bucket washing method. This method will greatly reduce the risks of scratching the paint during your normal maintenance washes.


^Cleaning Tires & Wheels Prior to Washing Paint


^Thoroughly Washing Paint... photo shows foam dwelling on surface prior to wash



Decontamination
After the paint has been cleaned, there are still microscopic particles that have bonded to your paint. These contaminates come from road grime, brake dust, industrial fallout, sap, tar, etc. The buildup of these contaminates leads to a gritty feeling surface. These particles must all be removed prior to the paint correction process as they may cause damage if they are left on the surface... so it is important to remove all dirt (with cleaning) and bonded contaminates (with decontamination) prior to polishing.

Now, there are many ways to decontaminate your paint. I personally begin with chemical decontamination to remove as many of the bonded particles as possible before I proceed with mechanical decontamination. Products like CarPro IronX and CarPro TarX work to effectively remove bonded Iron and Tar from the surface without any real work on your part. Afterwards, I proceed with detailing clay to remove any remaining particles on the surface. (note: chemical decontamination is not technically needed as detailing clay will remove the vast majority of all bonded contaminates, however it may take much longer if the surface is heavily contaminated)


^Detailing clay used on heavily contaminated paint. This was the contamination pulled off of a 3'x3' section of paint.


Paint Correction / Machine Polishing
This is the most time consuming, and most rewarding part of the entire process. The paint correction process utilizes various abrasives within polishing compounds paired with varying pad grits and polishing machines in order to safely remove a small amount of paint in order to produce a smooth, flat surface. I underline the point of removing paint to simply emphasize the fact that paint correction should only be done as needed as you are removing some of the very thin clear coat that is available to work with. For this reason, it is important to remember the golden rule of paint correction - "ALWAYS USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD". This rule ensures that you will only remove as much paint as needed to produce the desired results... the idea is to begin with a light polish, perform a test spot and analyze your results. Based on your findings of this test spot, you may decide you need to increase or decrease your product aggressiveness, increase or decrease your pad aggressiveness, change your technique, or a combination of all of these factors. Thankfully, this process is much safer now due to the use of dual action/random orbital polishers instead of the older high speed rotary machines.

I have written an article that explains how to Analyze Your Test Spot... Please CLICK HERE to read the article.

Here are some photos from a job I did not too long ago... this should show you that even if the vehicle is heavily swirled, it can be restored to some degree.


^50/50 shot showing the difference in clarity and gloss after compounding


^This area had been repainted and this haziness/dull/lifeless paint is the result of horrendous "buffing" that was done after the car was sanded. This is not uncommon to see after a car leaves a body shop


^Same door that was shown above after proper compounding. Notice the incredible difference in clarity.


^Gloss and depth had been restored to this previously neglected ride



Paint Protection
There are several categories of paint protection, all have their pros and cons...

Wax - A natural product (typically consisting of some % of carnauaba wax) that is spread thinly onto the surface in order to provide a sacrificial barrier between the surface of your paint and the elements. Waxes are typically the least durable of the 3 types of protection averaging only a couple of months in most cases, but they are easy to use, cost effective, and usually have a pleasing warm appearance to them.

Sealant - is, to put it simply, a man-made wax. This polymer based product works much like a liquid wax in that it is spread thinly onto the surface of the paint, however a sealant will last longer (4-6 months usually).

Coating - is the newest and most durable form of paint protection. These ceramic paint coatings provide years of durable protection that is thicker and more chemical resistant than any sealant or wax. These products are more expensive and require more prep work than traditional waxes or sealants, however they yield incredibly glossy finishes and provide incredibly easy maintenance.



Misc. Other Details
This is rather self explanatory... clean glass, dress tires, polish exhaust tips, other smaller tasks to really pull the exterior appearance together. I can go into more detail if needed


There is plenty more to discuss, but I think that is a good start... please let me know if you have any questions!

-Zach McGovern

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

To add to my initial post... here is a general list of products that I recommend for those starting to get into detailing. The initial investment may seem kind of high, but it is cheaper than hiring someone to do the work, and these products will last you a long time! You can use them on many of your cars, family cars, friend's cars, etc.

LazarusLng

Thanks Zach, That is great info Just what I was looking for! My paint looks almost identical to the bmw in your 50/50 photo.

doc307

Very good explanation Zach. I just purchased an obsidian 2010 RX and it was obviously well taken care of
but it did had some imperfections in the paint. So far I just gave it a good wash, followed by
clay then wax. Doing that made me realize how neglected the paint really was and I need to do
some more work on it.

Merlinii

Zach, as always, a great explanation and wonderful work.

IMHO Unlike other colors, if you own a black car and choose to do the work yourself you need to own a Dual Action (DA) polisher.

The Porter Cable 7424xp, Griot's Garage 6" and even the Harbor Freight 6" DA version will work fine for a "weekend warrior" detailer.

Here are a few of my suggestions...

I much prefer a 5" backing plate on a DA. The Meguiars "NEW" Soft Buff DBP5 DA Polisher 5 inch Backing Plate is a good choice.

Now on to the pads I like...

For correction the Meguiars 5" DMC5 DA Microfiber Cutting Discs do a great job for correction.
For a bit more "aggressive" pad I like the CarPro Flash Pad 5" (this one cuts-use only if needed)

For foam pads I might suggest the Lake Country Hydro-Tech Low Profile 5 1/2 x 7/8 Inch Foam Pads. To start 1) Cyan 1) Tangerine and 1) Crimson

For correction compound there are a few choices.

I like using Meguiars D300 DA Microfiber Correction Compound with the DMC5 DA Microfiber Cutting Discs. It's a nice, clean swirl remover polish.
Another compound that cuts and leaves a nice finish is Meguiars M101. You can use this with both the microfiber cutting disc and foam pads.

For finishing polish...

As Zach stated Meguiars M205 leaves a very nice clear finish. You can use this with the LC Tangerine pad.
My new favorite finishing polish is Carpro's Reflect. I use this with a LC Hydro-Tech Crimson foam for clarity and sharpness.

I use Carpo's Eraser when polishing paint to clean off the compound/polish to check my results.

On another note: Zach mentioned QUALITY microfiber towels. This is a must!

For drying (after a wash) I like Microfiber Madness: Dry Me Crazy (25" x 17")
For general towels I like the Carpro 16" x 16" BOA Microfiber Towel (5 Pack)
For that Quick Detailing (QD) towel I REALLY like the Microfiber Madness: Crazy Pile (16" x 16")

For washing the Carpro Merino Wool Wash Mitt, Iron-X Snow soap and a couple of Grit Guards are a good choice.

For Engine Bay I like Sonus Trim and Motor Kote I think it leave a "better than brand new" satin finish.

Yes, there are differences in Zach's list and my list but as stated by someone else..."Find what you like and use it often."

Work CLEAN. Clean you pad(s) often during use with the on-the-fly method.
I use compressed air (preferred) or a Bug Scrubber Block to clean the microfiber discs
I use a small terry cloth towel and/or a Polishing Pad Cleaning Brush for the foam pads.

Past the hardware and products the next thing you need to do is learn the process and you can maintain a beautiful swirl free finish.

papasmurf2

Really appreciate all this info on making my RX330 shine on . .

Merlinii

Stone chips: I've had good luck with Dr. ColorChip
Swirls: Paint correction is mentioned above
Clay Bar: The Megs kit is good but I'd try the Nanoskin towel or even the sponge FINE grade with clay lube.

Last Step Product (LSP): This is your final top seal coat. This can be a wax, sealant or coating.
It sounds like you vehicle has a bit of "normal wear" so I probably would not choose a coating.

There are TONS of LSP products on the market and everyone wants you to buy theirs.

Waxes: IMHO nothing looks better on black that a fine top end Carnauba wax. It lasts 3-4 weeks
Waxes do not last but they look good. If you like to wax every few weeks then it's a good choice.
There is a balance between longevity and "looks". I could suggest a few waxes that IMHO look great.

Sealants: Sealants are usually a polymer based and many have a brighter finish than wax.
Sealants, as a rule, last longer than wax...3-4 months. Some have a "Saran Wrap" look to them.
Personally, (on black) I like Blackfire Wet Diamond AFPP. It has a nice deep look and a slick feel.

In LSP's, as in many detailing products, there can always be an ongoing debate about what YOU like.

FINAL NOTE: When polishing do a test spot first, use the least aggressive products first and always work clean.

FSportIS

iTrader: (13)

I have tried many different wax, all of which always give the best gloss and shine but leave the car very dirty the next day. These last no more than 1 month.

I have tried various sealants, most of these give you the candy shine but less glossy and shine than wax. However, they makes the car less dusty the next day. Typically last 2-3 months.

I have tried tons and tons of quick detailers and only 2 that make the surface very clean and attract so much less dust are: 303 speed detailer and Finish Kaze 425. Therefore, after washing the car, I now always use either of these 2 products as drying aid. These typically last less than 2 weeks but I wash my car every week so that is no problem.

I then have Opticoat coating. In term of shine, gloss, slickness, it is not on par with any wax nor sealant. However, in term of PROTECTION and DURABILITY, Opticoat outperform any wax, sealant. I had them on for more than 6 months now and I can say the following: Coating has better scratch resistant, way better chemical resistant (via 6 months of bird bombs attack experience with no etching) and way more durability. Not sure about the UV protection because I can't measure that but the paint has never fade in color during these 6 months so I assume yes.

Here are my ways of making my car paint shiny, glossy, slicky and protected.
1. Opticoat - layer one. I use this as a tough barrier to protect the soft clear coat. I don't expect this to shine like wax or sealant. Will re-coat after 4 years.
2. CarPro Hydro2 sealant. Further protection. Every 3 months.
3. Wax or Glaze (Meg #7) for quick show room shine. Will last 2-4 weeks max. I only do it occasionally to pop that look for smiles.
4. Quick detailer spray. Either FK425 or 303 speed detailer. Every week after each wash.
It can probably be an overkill but man.... it looks better than a brand new car everyday!

By the way, I highly and highly recommend FK425 quick detailer as a drying aid. It makes the paint slicker than glass. I'm serious! It is so slick and smooth like butter.