advantages with the 22ple and nanoskin
03-03-14, 07:25 PM
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advantages with the 22ple and nanoskin
I have done a little research about these products but figured they where for proffesionls only since di is having a sale i figured maybe giving it a shot, now my questions....1. With the 22ple pro besides protecting the paint longer does does it give a better shine than sealentnl or wax? 2. Is a glaze before applying a no no? 3. What are some of the cons with this product? I mean if its easy to use, protects longer than any other products, and leaves a finish like no other then how come everyone is not on this product?....now with the nanoskin i also have a couple questions....1. Does the mitt or pad show contaminents like clay does? 2. Does it really work better than clay? And 3. Would you recommend it?
03-04-14, 08:49 AM
#2
It has a different type of shine compared to a traditional wax or sealant. Whether or not it is "shinier" is a purely subjective argument and the opinion will vary with everyone who sees it. The shine literally looks like there is a glass coating on the paint... because there is! It is a very hard, candy shell, type of shine that I absolutely love!
You should not use a glaze before applying a coating... as the directions state, the surface should be polished to remove surface defects like swirls and scratches, and then wiped down with an alcohol cleanser (or my preference: CarPro Eraser) to remove any polish residue or oils, and then the coating can be applied to the clean paint.
Some cons may be that it is a bit pricier than traditional protection, however when you determine the amount of time and product required to apply wax regularly over the course of 2 years, the cost difference is of no concern to me as the ease of use far outweighs the cost IMO. There are a lot of people who believe that coatings are only for "the lazy people" and then there are people who say they will never use a coating because they enjoy waxing their car. The truth is that you can still wax your car if you want when there is a coating on it... the coating will still be beneath the wax and act as an amazing base layer of protection that will stand up to damage that will eat through the layer of wax. The main reason people are not using these products, IMO, is 1) the cost - whether you DIY or pay a professional, these products are expensive 2) lack of knowledge - the average car owner does not know that a wax is used for protection. Most people believe a wax is an optional product that makes the car shiny... which is simply not the case. For those who are uneducated about proper paint maintenance, they have no idea products like these exist.
The nanoskin material is darker, so it will not show contaminates like the clay does. The nanoskin needs to be rinsed often to remove these particles since you are not continuously molding it like you would with a clay bar. Does it work better? No - both clay and nanoskin effectively remove contamination from the vehicle. Does it work faster? YES! The key selling point to the nanoskin products is the efficiency. I regularly use the nanoskin mitt, and I can decontaminate an average sedan (like the 2IS) in 15-20 minutes, which is about half the time it takes me to do it with clay.
The downfall to the nanoskin products is that they are prone to marring dark or soft paint. For this reason, I only recommend using them if you plan on polishing the vehicle afterwards. In general, there is always a risk of marring the finish whether you are using clay or nanoskin, but I have found it is much more likely to occur with the nanoskin mitt.
Here is a review I wrote on the Fine Grade Nano Skin Mitt: Finally Jumped on the Bandwagon - NanoSkin AutoScrub Mitt (Fine Grade)
Hope that helps, let me know if you've got any more questions.
-Zach
You should not use a glaze before applying a coating... as the directions state, the surface should be polished to remove surface defects like swirls and scratches, and then wiped down with an alcohol cleanser (or my preference: CarPro Eraser) to remove any polish residue or oils, and then the coating can be applied to the clean paint.
Some cons may be that it is a bit pricier than traditional protection, however when you determine the amount of time and product required to apply wax regularly over the course of 2 years, the cost difference is of no concern to me as the ease of use far outweighs the cost IMO. There are a lot of people who believe that coatings are only for "the lazy people" and then there are people who say they will never use a coating because they enjoy waxing their car. The truth is that you can still wax your car if you want when there is a coating on it... the coating will still be beneath the wax and act as an amazing base layer of protection that will stand up to damage that will eat through the layer of wax. The main reason people are not using these products, IMO, is 1) the cost - whether you DIY or pay a professional, these products are expensive 2) lack of knowledge - the average car owner does not know that a wax is used for protection. Most people believe a wax is an optional product that makes the car shiny... which is simply not the case. For those who are uneducated about proper paint maintenance, they have no idea products like these exist.
The nanoskin material is darker, so it will not show contaminates like the clay does. The nanoskin needs to be rinsed often to remove these particles since you are not continuously molding it like you would with a clay bar. Does it work better? No - both clay and nanoskin effectively remove contamination from the vehicle. Does it work faster? YES! The key selling point to the nanoskin products is the efficiency. I regularly use the nanoskin mitt, and I can decontaminate an average sedan (like the 2IS) in 15-20 minutes, which is about half the time it takes me to do it with clay.
The downfall to the nanoskin products is that they are prone to marring dark or soft paint. For this reason, I only recommend using them if you plan on polishing the vehicle afterwards. In general, there is always a risk of marring the finish whether you are using clay or nanoskin, but I have found it is much more likely to occur with the nanoskin mitt.
Here is a review I wrote on the Fine Grade Nano Skin Mitt: Finally Jumped on the Bandwagon - NanoSkin AutoScrub Mitt (Fine Grade)
Hope that helps, let me know if you've got any more questions.
-Zach
03-04-14, 09:28 AM
#3
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It has a different type of shine compared to a traditional wax or sealant. Whether or not it is "shinier" is a purely subjective argument and the opinion will vary with everyone who sees it. The shine literally looks like there is a glass coating on the paint... because there is! It is a very hard, candy shell, type of shine that I absolutely love!
You should not use a glaze before applying a coating... as the directions state, the surface should be polished to remove surface defects like swirls and scratches, and then wiped down with an alcohol cleanser (or my preference: CarPro Eraser) to remove any polish residue or oils, and then the coating can be applied to the clean paint.
Some cons may be that it is a bit pricier than traditional protection, however when you determine the amount of time and product required to apply wax regularly over the course of 2 years, the cost difference is of no concern to me as the ease of use far outweighs the cost IMO. There are a lot of people who believe that coatings are only for "the lazy people" and then there are people who say they will never use a coating because they enjoy waxing their car. The truth is that you can still wax your car if you want when there is a coating on it... the coating will still be beneath the wax and act as an amazing base layer of protection that will stand up to damage that will eat through the layer of wax. The main reason people are not using these products, IMO, is 1) the cost - whether you DIY or pay a professional, these products are expensive 2) lack of knowledge - the average car owner does not know that a wax is used for protection. Most people believe a wax is an optional product that makes the car shiny... which is simply not the case. For those who are uneducated about proper paint maintenance, they have no idea products like these exist.
The nanoskin material is darker, so it will not show contaminates like the clay does. The nanoskin needs to be rinsed often to remove these particles since you are not continuously molding it like you would with a clay bar. Does it work better? No - both clay and nanoskin effectively remove contamination from the vehicle. Does it work faster? YES! The key selling point to the nanoskin products is the efficiency. I regularly use the nanoskin mitt, and I can decontaminate an average sedan (like the 2IS) in 15-20 minutes, which is about half the time it takes me to do it with clay.
The downfall to the nanoskin products is that they are prone to marring dark or soft paint. For this reason, I only recommend using them if you plan on polishing the vehicle afterwards. In general, there is always a risk of marring the finish whether you are using clay or nanoskin, but I have found it is much more likely to occur with the nanoskin mitt.
Here is a review I wrote on the Fine Grade Nano Skin Mitt: Finally Jumped on the Bandwagon - NanoSkin AutoScrub Mitt (Fine Grade)
Hope that helps, let me know if you've got any more questions.
-Zach
You should not use a glaze before applying a coating... as the directions state, the surface should be polished to remove surface defects like swirls and scratches, and then wiped down with an alcohol cleanser (or my preference: CarPro Eraser) to remove any polish residue or oils, and then the coating can be applied to the clean paint.
Some cons may be that it is a bit pricier than traditional protection, however when you determine the amount of time and product required to apply wax regularly over the course of 2 years, the cost difference is of no concern to me as the ease of use far outweighs the cost IMO. There are a lot of people who believe that coatings are only for "the lazy people" and then there are people who say they will never use a coating because they enjoy waxing their car. The truth is that you can still wax your car if you want when there is a coating on it... the coating will still be beneath the wax and act as an amazing base layer of protection that will stand up to damage that will eat through the layer of wax. The main reason people are not using these products, IMO, is 1) the cost - whether you DIY or pay a professional, these products are expensive 2) lack of knowledge - the average car owner does not know that a wax is used for protection. Most people believe a wax is an optional product that makes the car shiny... which is simply not the case. For those who are uneducated about proper paint maintenance, they have no idea products like these exist.
The nanoskin material is darker, so it will not show contaminates like the clay does. The nanoskin needs to be rinsed often to remove these particles since you are not continuously molding it like you would with a clay bar. Does it work better? No - both clay and nanoskin effectively remove contamination from the vehicle. Does it work faster? YES! The key selling point to the nanoskin products is the efficiency. I regularly use the nanoskin mitt, and I can decontaminate an average sedan (like the 2IS) in 15-20 minutes, which is about half the time it takes me to do it with clay.
The downfall to the nanoskin products is that they are prone to marring dark or soft paint. For this reason, I only recommend using them if you plan on polishing the vehicle afterwards. In general, there is always a risk of marring the finish whether you are using clay or nanoskin, but I have found it is much more likely to occur with the nanoskin mitt.
Here is a review I wrote on the Fine Grade Nano Skin Mitt: Finally Jumped on the Bandwagon - NanoSkin AutoScrub Mitt (Fine Grade)
Hope that helps, let me know if you've got any more questions.
-Zach
03-04-14, 09:56 AM
#4
Well i was hoping to get an in deph answer from you zach thank you very much! ...i will be adding the 22ple to my cart, i was afraid you coldnt wax ontop of that coating cause i enjoy waxing but you cleared this up for me. I think i will try both clay and nanoskin just to say i have used both but if the nano cuts work time in half then that is a no brainer.
When you wax on top of the coating, you will be masking all of the properties of the coating except the fact that it is protecting the paint.
What I mean is that, when you apply a wax you will be covering up the coating, therefore the hydrophobic properties of the coating will not be present, nor will the look of the coating. You will be altering those properties with the wax you have applied. Make sense?
Also, I would not apply anything on top of the coating until it has fully cured (so wait at least a week after applying 22ple)
03-04-14, 10:19 AM
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Just to be clear...
When you wax on top of the coating, you will be masking all of the properties of the coating except the fact that it is protecting the paint.
What I mean is that, when you apply a wax you will be covering up the coating, therefore the hydrophobic properties of the coating will not be present, nor will the look of the coating. You will be altering those properties with the wax you have applied. Make sense?
Also, I would not apply anything on top of the coating until it has fully cured (so wait at least a week after applying 22ple)
When you wax on top of the coating, you will be masking all of the properties of the coating except the fact that it is protecting the paint.
What I mean is that, when you apply a wax you will be covering up the coating, therefore the hydrophobic properties of the coating will not be present, nor will the look of the coating. You will be altering those properties with the wax you have applied. Make sense?
Also, I would not apply anything on top of the coating until it has fully cured (so wait at least a week after applying 22ple)
03-04-14, 10:36 AM
#6
I see what you mean so adding wax would almost not benefit anything, it would be advised to just add the 22ple and nothing else so how do you maintain the coating? Do you need to alter washing techniques or use special stuff to keep its glory?....also i see they have products for rims is it just as good as the paint coating?.... as for price i think its a fair trade i mean you get an awesome protectant that gives an amazing appearance and stays on for almost a year or two!
Here is my recommended maintenance plan for 22ple VX1 Pro and other paint coatings:
- Wash the vehicle regularly (at least twice a month) utilizing proper washing and drying methods (3 bucket method, or GDWM for rinseless)
- Treat the vehicle with IronX twice a year to remove light contamination (can use fine grade clay if needed)
- Apply CarPro Reload every 6 months (or CarPro HydrO2 every 2-3 months) for added protection, durability, and gloss!
**If needed, remove water spots with CarPro Spotless Water Spot and Mineral Remover.
With this maintenance plan, you should easily see the maximum claimed durability from your coating.... and probably exceed it since Reload and HydrO2 are great means of protection on their own!
22ple VM1 and 22ple VR1 are also both great products.
03-04-14, 01:48 PM
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There is some benefit to adding wax - added protection on top of the coating will help prolong the life of your coating. However, a wax is not going to bond to the coating and will not last very long. There are other products that are highly recommended to use as a coating topper and share the same gloss and hydrophobic properties of these coatings.
Here is my recommended maintenance plan for 22ple VX1 Pro and other paint coatings:
- Wash the vehicle regularly (at least twice a month) utilizing proper washing and drying methods (3 bucket method, or GDWM for rinseless)
- Treat the vehicle with IronX twice a year to remove light contamination (can use fine grade clay if needed)
- Apply CarPro Reload every 6 months (or CarPro HydrO2 every 2-3 months) for added protection, durability, and gloss!
**If needed, remove water spots with CarPro Spotless Water Spot and Mineral Remover.
With this maintenance plan, you should easily see the maximum claimed durability from your coating.... and probably exceed it since Reload and HydrO2 are great means of protection on their own!
22ple VM1 and 22ple VR1 are also both great products.
Here is my recommended maintenance plan for 22ple VX1 Pro and other paint coatings:
- Wash the vehicle regularly (at least twice a month) utilizing proper washing and drying methods (3 bucket method, or GDWM for rinseless)
- Treat the vehicle with IronX twice a year to remove light contamination (can use fine grade clay if needed)
- Apply CarPro Reload every 6 months (or CarPro HydrO2 every 2-3 months) for added protection, durability, and gloss!
**If needed, remove water spots with CarPro Spotless Water Spot and Mineral Remover.
With this maintenance plan, you should easily see the maximum claimed durability from your coating.... and probably exceed it since Reload and HydrO2 are great means of protection on their own!
22ple VM1 and 22ple VR1 are also both great products.
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03-04-14, 05:36 PM
#8
There is some benefit to adding wax - added protection on top of the coating will help prolong the life of your coating. However, a wax is not going to bond to the coating and will not last very long. There are other products that are highly recommended to use as a coating topper and share the same gloss and hydrophobic properties of these coatings. Here is my recommended maintenance plan for 22ple VX1 Pro and other paint coatings: - Wash the vehicle regularly (at least twice a month) utilizing proper washing and drying methods (3 bucket method, or GDWM for rinseless) - Treat the vehicle with IronX twice a year to remove light contamination (can use fine grade clay if needed) - Apply CarPro Reload every 6 months (or CarPro HydrO2 every 2-3 months) for added protection, durability, and gloss! **If needed, remove water spots with CarPro Spotless Water Spot and Mineral Remover. With this maintenance plan, you should easily see the maximum claimed durability from your coating.... and probably exceed it since Reload and HydrO2 are great means of protection on their own! 22ple VM1 and 22ple VR1 are also both great products.
03-05-14, 06:11 AM
#10
CarPro is actually working on a new shampoo called "Reset" that is meant to be the perfect maintenance shampoo for coatings in that it contains heavy cleaners that will effectively remove dirt and contamination, and it will easily rinse away to leave the coating looking and performing like new. This should hit the market soon.
In the meantime, I am a big fan of Optimum Car Wash. This shampoo works great for maintenance on a coated or non-coated vehicle and can be used in a foam lance or gun as well as straight into a bucket. It will not degrade or remove traditional waxes or sealants when used properly.
Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam is another great choice. It is more suited for use in a foam lance, and produces excellent foam. This is also safe to use on traditional waxes or sealant.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Ivan
03-05-14, 10:34 AM
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No quality car wash shampoo will degrade the life of a coating. Unlike traditional waxes or sealants, ceramic coatings will not be harmed by even heavily diluted citrus shampoos.
CarPro is actually working on a new shampoo called "Reset" that is meant to be the perfect maintenance shampoo for coatings in that it contains heavy cleaners that will effectively remove dirt and contamination, and it will easily rinse away to leave the coating looking and performing like new. This should hit the market soon.
In the meantime, I am a big fan of Optimum Car Wash. This shampoo works great for maintenance on a coated or non-coated vehicle and can be used in a foam lance or gun as well as straight into a bucket. It will not degrade or remove traditional waxes or sealants when used properly.
Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam is another great choice. It is more suited for use in a foam lance, and produces excellent foam. This is also safe to use on traditional waxes or sealant.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Ivan
CarPro is actually working on a new shampoo called "Reset" that is meant to be the perfect maintenance shampoo for coatings in that it contains heavy cleaners that will effectively remove dirt and contamination, and it will easily rinse away to leave the coating looking and performing like new. This should hit the market soon.
In the meantime, I am a big fan of Optimum Car Wash. This shampoo works great for maintenance on a coated or non-coated vehicle and can be used in a foam lance or gun as well as straight into a bucket. It will not degrade or remove traditional waxes or sealants when used properly.
Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam is another great choice. It is more suited for use in a foam lance, and produces excellent foam. This is also safe to use on traditional waxes or sealant.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Ivan
03-06-14, 03:24 AM
#13
No quality car wash shampoo will degrade the life of a coating. Unlike traditional waxes or sealants, ceramic coatings will not be harmed by even heavily diluted citrus shampoos. CarPro is actually working on a new shampoo called "Reset" that is meant to be the perfect maintenance shampoo for coatings in that it contains heavy cleaners that will effectively remove dirt and contamination, and it will easily rinse away to leave the coating looking and performing like new. This should hit the market soon. In the meantime, I am a big fan of Optimum Car Wash. This shampoo works great for maintenance on a coated or non-coated vehicle and can be used in a foam lance or gun as well as straight into a bucket. It will not degrade or remove traditional waxes or sealants when used properly. Chemical Guys HoneyDew Snow Foam is another great choice. It is more suited for use in a foam lance, and produces excellent foam. This is also safe to use on traditional waxes or sealant. Hope that helps! Thanks Ivan
03-08-14, 10:01 AM
#14
Lead Lap
Waxes and sealants do NOT give the car its shine. They protect, that is it. If your paint has fine scratches and marring, the wax/sealant fills those in to give the illusion of shinyness. A properly polished car, with either a DAP, or other machine will produce the best shine possible.
Watch that guy's videos...he knows his stuff.
Watch that guy's videos...he knows his stuff.
03-08-14, 10:53 AM
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Waxes and sealants do NOT give the car its shine. They protect, that is it. If your paint has fine scratches and marring, the wax/sealant fills those in to give the illusion of shinyness. A properly polished car, with either a DAP, or other machine will produce the best shine possible.
http://youtu.be/eiIEHn-9qo8
Watch that guy's videos...he knows his stuff.
http://youtu.be/eiIEHn-9qo8
Watch that guy's videos...he knows his stuff.