sthakor92

Hi, I have an Is250 with ecru interior and it gets dirty from people sitting in the car, I was wondering whats a good cleaner to use? I've used the Armor All wipes and the Meguiars as well. I was wondering if it would be good to switch to the liquid Lexol? Also I'm trying to help protect the leather from the sun any good products?

BertL

I used Zaino Z9 and Z10 for years very successfully taking care of my ecru SC430 convertible, to the point the people that bought it were surprised how well it looked after almost 7 years, and could barely tell of any wear to the leather seats. An alternative to consider is Leather Masters. Once you have it clean, the protectant is said to do a great job preventing future stains.

TOGWT

Florida, California, Texus, etc paid particular attention to 'hydration' and 'ultra violet protection. With lighter colored leather a 'Surface protection' product is a must


Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Real leather has a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic. Simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather; urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation

An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.

Identifying characteristics - this type of surface; it will also have an even shine.

The water-drop absorbency test- water drops will ‘bead’ on the surface

Absorbency rate -Low

(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) especially on aniline or ventilated seats. Foam encapsulates the dirt so that it can then be wiped away; allow the foam to dwell to ensure the chemicals have time to work. For ingrained soil the best results when cleaning the leather is to use a medium soft bristled brush to agitate the cleaner, this ensures a thorough cleaning

For stubborn dirt use Leather Master™ Strong Cleaner, which can be diluted with distilled water to the required strength; do not apply any liquid cleaning product directly to the surface of finished leather, as it may ‘spot’ clean leaving a faded area? Always apply cleaning products to folded 100% cotton micro fibre towel and then apply using light / medium pressure.

(b) Hydration – is simply the replenishment of lost moisture, water molecules are smaller than the ones used in the polyurethane top coats, so it can permeate the finish in vapour form. This is essential to restore the suppleness and maintain leathers natural flexibility and keeps the leather at its optimum physical performance level, along with softness and strength.

A regular wipe down with a damp towel on a regular basis is all you need to condition and / or hydrate finished leather, and by using aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Leather should be hydrated on a regular basis and is somewhat climate dependent. Monthly hydration of leather upholstery in most southern states; Florida, Texas and Arizona, and etc especially during the summer months, would not be out of line

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off

Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective sacrificial barrier against all kinds of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks, so you are cleaning the protective layer

Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable UV-B against photosynthesis (fading) protection; especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle

(d) Patina(softness) - used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the finished leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry 100% cotton micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen. This product is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to restore the softness to hard finished leather; place the car in a sunny location and roll down the windows. Allow the car to sit in the sun for one or two hours to warm the surfaces.

The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles, urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation.

Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.

Oils and soft plastics (polymers, acrylics and urethanes) are not compatible; repeated application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking and binding agents. Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time. After extended use the condition of the finished leathers pigmentation (colour) will be removed by the oil causing the urethane protection to become delaminated.
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself

jfelbab

I can add a bit here too. I've been using Leather Masters products for around 30 years. I originally got acquainted with the products when I bought some very high-end, ivory Italian leather furniture. It came with bottomless bottles of Leather Masters Leather Cleaner and Protection Cream. Whenever these bottles go empty I go back to the store and they replace them. I go back just about very two years.

The LM cleaner is very good and I use it on my own vehicles. When I detail other vehicles, I use Woolite Original mixed 1:10 or 1:20 with water and that also does a good job of cleaning. Both products generate ample foam which is vital to cleaning leather. Never scrub leather to get it clean. Use the chemical and let the foam dwell for a minute or two but not dry on the leather. If you need more cleaning power use warmer water. If you must agitate use a soft horsehair or nylon brush and gently aggitate but not scrub. Along the same line, I'd not use microfibers on leather as they can be too abrasive. I use 100% soft white cotton toweling. Using a white towel can let you see whether you are removing soil or not. It can also easily show you if you begin to start removing the dye. Most leather in modern cars is dyed and/or coated with a pigment to provide uniform color and texture, then coated with a thin clear coat. If you wear away the clear coat you will begin to remove the pigment.

I'm also a huge fan of the Leather Masters Protection Cream. This product prevents dye transfer from jeans, belts, jackets and most other stains. It leaves a breathable polymer coating on the leather. This coating needs to be replaced periodically but it does prevent the leather from becoming permanently stained. It also dries silky smooth and it doesn't interfere with moisture transpiration.

Lastly, and I've written about this several time before, leather needs hydration to remain soft and mostly crease free. Moisture is absorbed by the leather fibers. When leather is properly hydrated it feels soft and flexible. What happens is that the moisture is easily evaporated from the leather. The temperature in a car parked in the hot sun can easily reach 160 degrees or higher. This happens even if you crack the windows. Moisture tends to evaporate when it gets that hot. So then evening comes and the leather cools and begins to shrink. Since the leather is now dry, it is prone to stress. Winter is also hard on leather. Since leather relies on moisture to remain flexible and temperatures can drop to below freezing in a car left out in the elements, you can imagine that when getting into a frozen car seat, the leather might be stressed. It is pretty amazing that modern leather holds up so well when their temperature exposure can go from below zero to over 160 degrees and remains flexible.

Some thoughts and tips:
• Keep in mind that you are cleaning a urethane topcoat and not the leather. If you have a stain it is in the topcoat and not the leather. Basically the leather is a split hide that is a carrier for the topcoat.
• Park your car in a covered area whenever possible rather than in the sun. A sunshield won't keep a car from reaching high temperatures. Cracking the windows does very little as well.
• During very hot weather it would be a good idea to wipe down the leather with a moist cotton towel more frequently. Note that water won't directly be absorbed into the leather through the topcoat but the process of water evaporating will allow the water vapor to transpire into the leather.
• Many leather conditioners on the market today were designed for uncoated leather and may do more harm than good on modern coated leather. I don't use them. They are oily or waxy in nature and leave behind a film on the leather. This film may feel slippery or grabby depending on their nature and will hold onto dust and grime. It is this that forms an abrasive every time you slide in or out of the vehicle. Over time this will wear away the topcoat of the leather.
Another point about using an oily conditioner on older leather. If you have chipping or cracking occurring and you let oils get into the leather it will speed the delamination of the topcoat around this crack. In essence, it will make the crack larger as it weakens the bond the topcoat has with the leather.
• The most important thing you can do is keep your leather clean. Vacuum it regularly and wipe it down with a moist cotton towel.
• When you do use a cleaner, be sure to wipe down the leather with a clean wrung-out cotton towel after the cleaning to remove all traces of detergent.
• If you begin to see a lot of creasing, or your leather is beginning to feel hard, you might try more frequent hydration. I accomplish this by daily wipe downs with a moist towel for a week and I'll toss the damp towel under my seats for a day to assist in the hydration. Don't get things too wet or mold may be an issue. If that towel is dry after a couple hours you should be fine.
• Avoid using abrasives on your coated leather. Things like a Magic Eraser might make your leather look nice initially, but you will be removing some of the topcoat and shortening its life. You will also be roughing up the surface of the leather and making it more prone to soiling. Take your time when cleaning stubborn dirt and stains and use the CHAT method as recommended by leather professionals.
C=Chemical (Use an appropriate cleaning detergent)
H=Heat (Stubborn stains often respond better to heated solutions)
A=Agitation (Agitate with a soft brush, either horsehair or soft nylon)
T=Time (Increase dwell time when needed to allow the chemicals to work longer)

I've been cleaning and protecting leather for around 30 years and have some pieces that show no wear. Leather is a strong material that, if cared for properly, can last indeffinitely.

sthakor92

What do you guys think if I buy the Lexol cleaner to get the dirt off the seats then wipe it down with a wet towel (assuming to just use water for this correct me if i'm wrong) then go over it with leather masters protection cream? I'm looking to prolong the leather from cracking or getting creases from getting in and out of the car as well as keeping it clean.

BertL

Like Jim, I'd suggest the LM Cleaner. I don't know why one would use Lexol instead.

sthakor92

My fault, I didn't see he suggested LM cleaner. I was just reading up on the protection cream from a vendor and the website suggests applying it 2-4 times a year seem about right? Figured it would be more frequent

sthakor92

Also is the leather masters "soft clean" good? Instead of the foam, I'm looking online and seeing bundles for the soft clean along with the protection creme

BertL

After cleaning and it's dry, a couple coats of the LM protection cream (let it dry between) will get you going, then every few months (3-5 or so) will do ya assuming you keep up with the damp wipes as Jim suggest when you wash the car and don't have any major problems that cause you to use the LM cleaner again. If I have to clean, I let it dry, then re-protect with the cream... A couple coats (letting it dry between) on the drivers seat and only one on the others (I drive solo the majority of the time, so adjust as you think appropriate.). ...let's put it this way, I applied the protection/conditioner products more often when I lived in places like AZ than I did in GA, HI, or even here in SoCal -- there seems to be a correlation to humidity, and as Jim says, the amount of moisture your leather retains. I'm to the point after all these years of having quality leather in my rides, there is just a feel and look to what it needs that is hard to describe.

sthakor92

Okay great, do you know about the leather masters soft clean? or should I just go for the LM foam?

BertL

I believe the difference between the two is "strong" has 2X the active ingredients of the "soft" variety. You apply/dwell/remove them both in the same way. I have only used the "strong" version.

If you're looking at perhaps the Autogeek site, there are some explanations of differences in the products there, but you may also take a look at the Uniters site which is the manufacturer of LM... Their International site pages have slightly different information (look at both "Leather Master System" as well as "Specialty Products") than the North American info here. Together, those two sets of pages do a pretty good job explaining what each of the products is intended for from the people that make them -- then I go to the US retailers where they generally carry a subset of the products for actual sale and make my selection from there. :-) Good luck!

jfelbab

The soft cleaner it works fine for most cleaning. If you have the strong cleaner you can dilute it 50/50 with water and it becomes the soft cleaner. I personally use the strong cleaner and most often dilute it unless I need the stronger cleaning ability.

If you vacuum and wipe down your leather with a damp rag weekly you likely will never need a stronger cleaner than the LM Soft Cleaner.

sthakor92

Just ordered the strong cleaner and protection creme, thanks for all your help! Hopefully these bottles last some time cause I only ordered 1 each,