Currently pissed. Detail tips needed
10-28-05, 07:35 PM
#1
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Currently pissed.
Well this afternoon I spent about 3 hours washing the car. I washed & dried like normal, but before my polishing step I decided to try some rubbing compound to get rid of the excess left over wax and anything else that may have come into contact with my paint job in the 4 weeks since the last coat. Everything was going well...... the compound was being very tough, needless to say there is nothing left but paint, lol. After finished the compound I noticed the car had swirls all the way through it........ quickly I thought, I'm sure the polish will work that out, but it didn't. I went on with my coat of NuFinish. After wiping the polish out...... the swirls were still there. Now before the ownage begins..... I'm a newbie @ paint care. I try my hardest, and to be honest with you... this is the first time I literally just screwed up. What can I do to get these swirl marks out? I'd like to refrain from using any type of electronic buffing device. A friend advised using a clay bar, but I'm just unsure as to how that's going to do anything. Also.... should I use a paint cleaner to get the wax coat off? Any help is appreciated thanks.
10-28-05, 08:25 PM
#2
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Chris, I'll wait for guitarman to chip in, but I've had good luck with Meguar's Scratch-X when I had something similar happen (due to using a clay bar w/o enough lubrication).
Do a search for 'swirl' in this forum and you'll find a bunch of black onyx owners chatting about how to get rid of swirls that will help too.
Best of luck getting 'em out!
Do a search for 'swirl' in this forum and you'll find a bunch of black onyx owners chatting about how to get rid of swirls that will help too.
Best of luck getting 'em out!
10-28-05, 08:28 PM
#3
Rubbing compund in that scenario was your first mistake. It's for SERIOUS paint issues, and will always mar the finish, causing far more problems ( and hard work) than you may have started with. It contains heavy abrasives and should never be used only as a last resort, next to wetsanding.
The next mis-step was NuFinish as your polish. Although it contains some minor abrasives & solvent cleaners, it's an acrylic polymer sealant for the most part, a product intended for light oxidation and protection, and the abrasives and solvents in it are not going to mitigate the marring and dulling caused by any rubbing compound. It's like David vs Goliath.
This is where the detailer's axion; "Always try the least aggressive (finest) polish first" comes in. You want to try a fine polish such as a swirl remover first on ANY issue. For that matter, the NuFinish would alone would have been a better choice than the rubbing compound, though not my particular choice, after washing/drying the car.
I would suggest Menzerna Final polish, or 3M Machine Glaze If you don't want to spend a lot you could try KIT SCRATCH-OUT or as Dave mentioned, Meguiar's Scratch X, followed by a swirl remover. It will take a LOT of time by hand, but you should be able to get things back to good again. I'm not sure 1 product and 1 step will be able to solve the swirls, you *may* have to use a medium -cut polish (the KIT or Meguiar's product) FOLLOWED by a fine polish (a swirl remover or the Menzerna product). If the fine polish alone (first) isn't working well enough, you'll have to use the 2 separate abrasives in steps. Work the polishes in lateral back & forth motions, not circles, and if you can, use a thick polish applicator / terry towel to avoid marks/ holograms from finger pressure, which can occur when you use a thin towel or other applicator. Even pressure over the applicator is key, as is working the product just until it begins to dry.
Understand, this isn't intended to chastise you for your choices, we all make mistakes and product use can be confusing. It's just for the edification of anyone who isn't well versed in what products do what, and why, and where & when you should use them. That's the tricky part sometimes.
Get your muscles ready, or buy a Porter Cable D/A polisher and some quality polishes, and get 'er back to pretty again. You CAN do it. Best of luck, let us know what happens.
The next mis-step was NuFinish as your polish. Although it contains some minor abrasives & solvent cleaners, it's an acrylic polymer sealant for the most part, a product intended for light oxidation and protection, and the abrasives and solvents in it are not going to mitigate the marring and dulling caused by any rubbing compound. It's like David vs Goliath.
This is where the detailer's axion; "Always try the least aggressive (finest) polish first" comes in. You want to try a fine polish such as a swirl remover first on ANY issue. For that matter, the NuFinish would alone would have been a better choice than the rubbing compound, though not my particular choice, after washing/drying the car.
I would suggest Menzerna Final polish, or 3M Machine Glaze If you don't want to spend a lot you could try KIT SCRATCH-OUT or as Dave mentioned, Meguiar's Scratch X, followed by a swirl remover. It will take a LOT of time by hand, but you should be able to get things back to good again. I'm not sure 1 product and 1 step will be able to solve the swirls, you *may* have to use a medium -cut polish (the KIT or Meguiar's product) FOLLOWED by a fine polish (a swirl remover or the Menzerna product). If the fine polish alone (first) isn't working well enough, you'll have to use the 2 separate abrasives in steps. Work the polishes in lateral back & forth motions, not circles, and if you can, use a thick polish applicator / terry towel to avoid marks/ holograms from finger pressure, which can occur when you use a thin towel or other applicator. Even pressure over the applicator is key, as is working the product just until it begins to dry.
Understand, this isn't intended to chastise you for your choices, we all make mistakes and product use can be confusing. It's just for the edification of anyone who isn't well versed in what products do what, and why, and where & when you should use them. That's the tricky part sometimes.
Get your muscles ready, or buy a Porter Cable D/A polisher and some quality polishes, and get 'er back to pretty again. You CAN do it. Best of luck, let us know what happens.
Last edited by Guitarman; 10-28-05 at 08:45 PM.
10-28-05, 08:31 PM
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BrownDuckz...I'm a little bit nutty about the appearance of my vehicles - my wife calls it obsessive - so I'll give you my $.02.
Swirl marks suck...and they look bad to boot. I have had success with Meguires Scratch-X. It comes in a black toothpaste like tube, but bigger, and can be purchased in any AutoZone, Advanced Auto or other national chain. That will help remove the swirls. You might need to do it twice. Your eye will tell you the answer to that.
As to clay bars, I love them. They work like magic and will leave your paint feeling like silk. Use the clay bar and then wax your car. When finished, stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I use the clay bar on the paint and the windows. Like I said.....they work like magic.
As to wax removal..use Dawn dish soap. I know it sounds odd but Dawn will remove all the wax on your car and leave it squeaky clean. Don't use Dawn all the time.....just those few times when you want to remove the wax buildup. Dawn won't have a tremendous negative effect on a polymer polish, just wax. Once you get a coat of polymer use a traditional car wash soap.
As to what to use to polish your paint...don't use NuFinish. Nothing against it but I think there are other products available that will meet your car's needs better. Meguires makes good, reasonably priced products that can be purchased at any national chain store. Try and use a polymer sealant as opposed to a Carnuba wax. Carnuba begins to melt at 150*F. I would try Meguires NXT wax, Meguires Gold Class or other comparable product. Surf around the net, www.autogeek.com and sites like that to find out which products will work well for you.
If you want to step up to a really good polish go and buy yourself some Zaino. This is what I use on my vehicles and it is great. Yes....it IS expensive but if you are really into detailing its worth the cost. Zaino contains no 'wax' and it leaves a great shine. Google Zaino and read all about it. I know they have distributors if you live in New Jersey, but you have to order it off the web if you don't live there. I also use a product that is manufactured locally here in Atlanta. It isn't available but in Georgia and a few other Southern states. It works similar to Zaino and leaves a great shine. Those are the only two products I currently use on my vehicles. I also use the quick detailer sold by both Zaino and the local company. Those quick detailers work with the polish to really enhance the shine.
Be patient and don't rub too hard. I have a buffer but it just sits in the box. Its best to hand rub your finish, IMHO. Use the Scratch-X, a clay bar and then a good quality polymer polish. If you went to the parts store tomorrow morning and bought everything you could be done in a matter of 3 to 4 hours and your car should look great. Your total cost would be in the $50.00 range also.
As to the tires and interior use 303 Aerospace protectant........it is awesome!!!!! Most boat dealers sell it. Meguires NXT spray also works well.
I hope I have helped. Relax and enjoy yourself and your car will look awesome
Swirl marks suck...and they look bad to boot. I have had success with Meguires Scratch-X. It comes in a black toothpaste like tube, but bigger, and can be purchased in any AutoZone, Advanced Auto or other national chain. That will help remove the swirls. You might need to do it twice. Your eye will tell you the answer to that.
As to clay bars, I love them. They work like magic and will leave your paint feeling like silk. Use the clay bar and then wax your car. When finished, stand back and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I use the clay bar on the paint and the windows. Like I said.....they work like magic.
As to wax removal..use Dawn dish soap. I know it sounds odd but Dawn will remove all the wax on your car and leave it squeaky clean. Don't use Dawn all the time.....just those few times when you want to remove the wax buildup. Dawn won't have a tremendous negative effect on a polymer polish, just wax. Once you get a coat of polymer use a traditional car wash soap.
As to what to use to polish your paint...don't use NuFinish. Nothing against it but I think there are other products available that will meet your car's needs better. Meguires makes good, reasonably priced products that can be purchased at any national chain store. Try and use a polymer sealant as opposed to a Carnuba wax. Carnuba begins to melt at 150*F. I would try Meguires NXT wax, Meguires Gold Class or other comparable product. Surf around the net, www.autogeek.com and sites like that to find out which products will work well for you.
If you want to step up to a really good polish go and buy yourself some Zaino. This is what I use on my vehicles and it is great. Yes....it IS expensive but if you are really into detailing its worth the cost. Zaino contains no 'wax' and it leaves a great shine. Google Zaino and read all about it. I know they have distributors if you live in New Jersey, but you have to order it off the web if you don't live there. I also use a product that is manufactured locally here in Atlanta. It isn't available but in Georgia and a few other Southern states. It works similar to Zaino and leaves a great shine. Those are the only two products I currently use on my vehicles. I also use the quick detailer sold by both Zaino and the local company. Those quick detailers work with the polish to really enhance the shine.
Be patient and don't rub too hard. I have a buffer but it just sits in the box. Its best to hand rub your finish, IMHO. Use the Scratch-X, a clay bar and then a good quality polymer polish. If you went to the parts store tomorrow morning and bought everything you could be done in a matter of 3 to 4 hours and your car should look great. Your total cost would be in the $50.00 range also.
As to the tires and interior use 303 Aerospace protectant........it is awesome!!!!! Most boat dealers sell it. Meguires NXT spray also works well.
I hope I have helped. Relax and enjoy yourself and your car will look awesome
10-28-05, 10:34 PM
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Thanks for the lengthy replies guys.... It was very helpful. From all the info I've taken in.... it looks as if I should use Dawn dish soap to get the NuFinish coat off. Should I use a regular car wash soap step after the Dawn to make sure it's nice and clean? One thing I haven't figured it out..... exactly what caused the swirl marks? Was it my motion? Or was it plain & simple - the compound? LexATL - you mentioned both the clay bar and scratch X. Is this an either or? Or do I need to use both? And in what order? Last..... after removing 100% of the swirl [by eye examination] I should layer one good coat of wax. In the past I've always used Meguairs..... I'm not sure why I changed up... should I go back to the M? Thanks guys.
10-29-05, 07:09 AM
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I would was with Dawn once and then use the Scratch-X and finish with the clay bar. Once that was done I would go with Meguires Gold Class wax or their NXT generation wax. Once you finish with that - if you feel ambitious - hit the car with Meguires Quick Detail spray and get your sunglasses out 
As to what caused the swirls it was the abrasives in the compound. The next time you wash your car use a name brand car wash liquid. Since you know Meguires use their car wash.
Microfiber towels are also good to use. They are absorbant so you can dry with them and you can use them to take off the polish.
That should do it! You car should look and feel clean. Good lucka nd have fun!!
As to what caused the swirls it was the abrasives in the compound. The next time you wash your car use a name brand car wash liquid. Since you know Meguires use their car wash.
Microfiber towels are also good to use. They are absorbant so you can dry with them and you can use them to take off the polish.
That should do it! You car should look and feel clean. Good lucka nd have fun!!
10-29-05, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LexAtlanta
I would was with Dawn once and then use the Scratch-X and finish with the clay bar. Once that was done I would go with Meguires Gold Class wax or their NXT generation wax. Once you finish with that - if you feel ambitious - hit the car with Meguires Quick Detail spray and get your sunglasses out
As to what caused the swirls it was the abrasives in the compound. The next time you wash your car use a name brand car wash liquid. Since you know Meguires use their car wash.
Microfiber towels are also good to use. They are absorbant so you can dry with them and you can use them to take off the polish.
That should do it! You car should look and feel clean. Good lucka nd have fun!!
As to what caused the swirls it was the abrasives in the compound. The next time you wash your car use a name brand car wash liquid. Since you know Meguires use their car wash.
Microfiber towels are also good to use. They are absorbant so you can dry with them and you can use them to take off the polish.
That should do it! You car should look and feel clean. Good lucka nd have fun!!
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10-29-05, 08:38 AM
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Also I might add.. my father mentioned that the swirls may be produced because I didn't get all the compound off. In part I can understand why he thinks this....... the rubbing compound was very hard to get off. I think I was suppose to use some kind of lubricant to get it off........ because I was scrubbing with all my might to get this stuff off. If this is the case...... A few washes with Dawn soap and a clay bar might do the trick to get me back to my clean-slate body.
10-29-05, 09:39 AM
#9
Chris, couple things...
You never mentioned what brand compound you used (unless i missed it somewhere) ...was it the Turtle Wax or the DuPont paste type rubbing compounds? If so, you need to toss them, they are horrible. If you feel the need to keep a compound around the garage, invest in some Menzerna or 3M LIQUID compounds. They are MUCH more user friendly, although methodology still plays a part.
Whenever you are compounding or polishing, it's a good idea to mix up a spray bottle with some isopropyl alcohol and distilled water (50/50 mix) and spray that on the compound residue if necessary. But if you rub out the compound well enough, realistically, you should not have a lot remaining. It's not like wax where you want the product to dry on the car, just the opposite actually. You work it till it's almost not there. You will have a film, but you'll find with a quality LIQUID compound that it's quite easy to buff off.
Buy yes, the heavier the residue left on the paint, the more abrasive that stuff will be when you try to rub it off. Kind of like shooting yourself in the foot- you work the compound to remove swirls, and leave so much on after you work it that removing it produces new swirls from the grit being wiped across the freshly buffed paint.
So that's the time you would want to lubricate it with the spray water/alcohol mix.
Also, "scrubbing with all my might" is another no-no. That can only do damage. The alcohol will soften and break down the product so you don't have to use excessive pressure rubbing.
That also will remove any fillers that may be in some products that hide swirls, so you get to see the paint as it actually IS, rather than with something hiding what you're trying to solve (swirls).
Lastly, Dawn does remove waxes and polishes, but it *MAY* not completely remove some polymer sealants. Zaino is not fully removed with Dawn. You have to use either a fine abrasive polish (swirl remover or paint cleaner with solvents) or isopropyl alcohol to fully remove Zaino, which is in the same family as NuFinish. So take that FWIW.
You never mentioned what brand compound you used (unless i missed it somewhere) ...was it the Turtle Wax or the DuPont paste type rubbing compounds? If so, you need to toss them, they are horrible. If you feel the need to keep a compound around the garage, invest in some Menzerna or 3M LIQUID compounds. They are MUCH more user friendly, although methodology still plays a part.
Whenever you are compounding or polishing, it's a good idea to mix up a spray bottle with some isopropyl alcohol and distilled water (50/50 mix) and spray that on the compound residue if necessary. But if you rub out the compound well enough, realistically, you should not have a lot remaining. It's not like wax where you want the product to dry on the car, just the opposite actually. You work it till it's almost not there. You will have a film, but you'll find with a quality LIQUID compound that it's quite easy to buff off.
Buy yes, the heavier the residue left on the paint, the more abrasive that stuff will be when you try to rub it off. Kind of like shooting yourself in the foot- you work the compound to remove swirls, and leave so much on after you work it that removing it produces new swirls from the grit being wiped across the freshly buffed paint.
So that's the time you would want to lubricate it with the spray water/alcohol mix.
Also, "scrubbing with all my might" is another no-no. That can only do damage. The alcohol will soften and break down the product so you don't have to use excessive pressure rubbing.
That also will remove any fillers that may be in some products that hide swirls, so you get to see the paint as it actually IS, rather than with something hiding what you're trying to solve (swirls).
Lastly, Dawn does remove waxes and polishes, but it *MAY* not completely remove some polymer sealants. Zaino is not fully removed with Dawn. You have to use either a fine abrasive polish (swirl remover or paint cleaner with solvents) or isopropyl alcohol to fully remove Zaino, which is in the same family as NuFinish. So take that FWIW.
10-29-05, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Guitarman
Chris, couple things...
You never mentioned what brand compound you used (unless i missed it somewhere) ...was it the Turtle Wax or the DuPont paste type rubbing compounds? If so, you need to toss them, they are horrible. If you feel the need to keep a compound around the garage, invest in some Menzerna or 3M LIQUID compounds. They are MUCH more user friendly, although methodology still plays a part.
Whenever you are compounding or polishing, it's a good idea to mix up a spray bottle with some isopropyl alcohol and distilled water (50/50 mix) and spray that on the compound residue if necessary. But if you rub out the compound well enough, realistically, you should not have a lot remaining. It's not like wax where you want the product to dry on the car, just the opposite actually. You work it till it's almost not there. You will have a film, but you'll find with a quality LIQUID compound that it's quite easy to buff off.
Buy yes, the heavier the residue left on the paint, the more abrasive that stuff will be when you try to rub it off. Kind of like shooting yourself in the foot- you work the compound to remove swirls, and leave so much on after you work it that removing it produces new swirls from the grit being wiped across the freshly buffed paint.
So that's the time you would want to lubricate it with the spray water/alcohol mix.
Also, "scrubbing with all my might" is another no-no. That can only do damage. The alcohol will soften and break down the product so you don't have to use excessive pressure rubbing.
That also will remove any fillers that may be in some products that hide swirls, so you get to see the paint as it actually IS, rather than with something hiding what you're trying to solve (swirls).
Lastly, Dawn does remove waxes and polishes, but it *MAY* not completely remove some polymer sealants. Zaino is not fully removed with Dawn. You have to use either a fine abrasive polish (swirl remover or paint cleaner with solvents) or isopropyl alcohol to fully remove Zaino, which is in the same family as NuFinish. So take that FWIW.
You never mentioned what brand compound you used (unless i missed it somewhere) ...was it the Turtle Wax or the DuPont paste type rubbing compounds? If so, you need to toss them, they are horrible. If you feel the need to keep a compound around the garage, invest in some Menzerna or 3M LIQUID compounds. They are MUCH more user friendly, although methodology still plays a part.
Whenever you are compounding or polishing, it's a good idea to mix up a spray bottle with some isopropyl alcohol and distilled water (50/50 mix) and spray that on the compound residue if necessary. But if you rub out the compound well enough, realistically, you should not have a lot remaining. It's not like wax where you want the product to dry on the car, just the opposite actually. You work it till it's almost not there. You will have a film, but you'll find with a quality LIQUID compound that it's quite easy to buff off.
Buy yes, the heavier the residue left on the paint, the more abrasive that stuff will be when you try to rub it off. Kind of like shooting yourself in the foot- you work the compound to remove swirls, and leave so much on after you work it that removing it produces new swirls from the grit being wiped across the freshly buffed paint.
So that's the time you would want to lubricate it with the spray water/alcohol mix.
Also, "scrubbing with all my might" is another no-no. That can only do damage. The alcohol will soften and break down the product so you don't have to use excessive pressure rubbing.
That also will remove any fillers that may be in some products that hide swirls, so you get to see the paint as it actually IS, rather than with something hiding what you're trying to solve (swirls).
Lastly, Dawn does remove waxes and polishes, but it *MAY* not completely remove some polymer sealants. Zaino is not fully removed with Dawn. You have to use either a fine abrasive polish (swirl remover or paint cleaner with solvents) or isopropyl alcohol to fully remove Zaino, which is in the same family as NuFinish. So take that FWIW.
10-29-05, 11:14 AM
#11
I suggest just using the alcohol mix by itself first, then you can wash it with Dawn. That way, you'll be certain you're starting fresh with no compound or NuFinish on the paint.
Next, you use your medium-cut polish, be it Scratch X. the Kit product, or 3M Machine Glaze or just about any other medium-cut polish will do fine. If unsure just go to an automotive paint supply store and ask them. Or order the Menzerna or 3M products here;
Menzerna polishes;
http://search.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bi...a+final+polish
3M ;
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
The Scratch X or Kit Scratch Out can be found at just about any Auto Zone or Pep Boys etc.
The step process in a nutshell; Chosse the finest abrasive you have first, and see if that does the trick. If not, you step up to a grittier abrasive. Whenever you choose to use a heavyily abrasive product, you ALWAYS have to follow it with progressively finer abrasives, to eliminate the effect the heavy abrasive did on the paint to correct the given problem.
Sometimes you can get away with just 1 product, if the paint defect is minimal. Other times, you need a harsh abrasive (rubbing compound) to solve the defect, and then once you've solved the paint defect with that, you need a medium and/or finer abrasive to correct the damage the rubbing compound caused in fixing the main issue.
On dark or black colors, most of us have to go like this;
Rubbing compound
Medium-cut polish (Scratch X, 3M machine Glaze, etc.)
Fine poilish (swirl remover, Menzerna Final polish etc.)
Menzerna Intensive polish is a good choice in place of a strict rubbing compound because it acts like both a heavy cut rubbing compound AND has diminishing abrasives that leave considerably less dulling than traditional rubbing compounds. Meaning you might only need 1 more step with a swirl remover than having to use a med-cut polish AND a swirl remover.
There are no absolutes, you have different paints. and different problems, and many different grits of abrasives. The only constant is that you can't expect 1 step and 1 product to "do it all" especially when you're working from a heavy compound. It will take a lot of work and multiple steps and products.
Next, you use your medium-cut polish, be it Scratch X. the Kit product, or 3M Machine Glaze or just about any other medium-cut polish will do fine. If unsure just go to an automotive paint supply store and ask them. Or order the Menzerna or 3M products here;
Menzerna polishes;
http://search.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bi...a+final+polish
3M ;
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
The Scratch X or Kit Scratch Out can be found at just about any Auto Zone or Pep Boys etc.
The step process in a nutshell; Chosse the finest abrasive you have first, and see if that does the trick. If not, you step up to a grittier abrasive. Whenever you choose to use a heavyily abrasive product, you ALWAYS have to follow it with progressively finer abrasives, to eliminate the effect the heavy abrasive did on the paint to correct the given problem.
Sometimes you can get away with just 1 product, if the paint defect is minimal. Other times, you need a harsh abrasive (rubbing compound) to solve the defect, and then once you've solved the paint defect with that, you need a medium and/or finer abrasive to correct the damage the rubbing compound caused in fixing the main issue.
On dark or black colors, most of us have to go like this;
Rubbing compound
Medium-cut polish (Scratch X, 3M machine Glaze, etc.)
Fine poilish (swirl remover, Menzerna Final polish etc.)
Menzerna Intensive polish is a good choice in place of a strict rubbing compound because it acts like both a heavy cut rubbing compound AND has diminishing abrasives that leave considerably less dulling than traditional rubbing compounds. Meaning you might only need 1 more step with a swirl remover than having to use a med-cut polish AND a swirl remover.
There are no absolutes, you have different paints. and different problems, and many different grits of abrasives. The only constant is that you can't expect 1 step and 1 product to "do it all" especially when you're working from a heavy compound. It will take a lot of work and multiple steps and products.
10-29-05, 04:58 PM
#12
Just want to point out that if you're going to get those swirls out with a polish like ScratchX you don't need Dawn at all. It would be waste of time. ScratchX will remove all previous waxes. In fact, any abrasive polish will.
I really would highly suggest renting or purchasing a Porter-Cable Dual-Action polisher and some Meguiar's #83 and #80 polishes. You'd be amazed at how much time the PC cuts out of a detail.
I really would highly suggest renting or purchasing a Porter-Cable Dual-Action polisher and some Meguiar's #83 and #80 polishes. You'd be amazed at how much time the PC cuts out of a detail.
10-29-05, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jfelbab
Just want to point out that if you're going to get those swirls out with a polish like ScratchX you don't need Dawn at all. It would be waste of time. ScratchX will remove all previous waxes. In fact, any abrasive polish will.
I really would highly suggest renting or purchasing a Porter-Cable Dual-Action polisher and some Meguiar's #83 and #80 polishes. You'd be amazed at how much time the PC cuts out of a detail.
I really would highly suggest renting or purchasing a Porter-Cable Dual-Action polisher and some Meguiar's #83 and #80 polishes. You'd be amazed at how much time the PC cuts out of a detail.
10-29-05, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by LexAtlanta
I also use a product that is manufactured locally here in Atlanta. It isn't available but in Georgia and a few other Southern states. It works similar to Zaino and leaves a great shine. Those are the only two products I currently use on my vehicles. I also use the quick detailer sold by both Zaino and the local company. Those quick detailers work with the polish to really enhance the shine.
Thanks
10-29-05, 08:58 PM
#15
Originally Posted by BrownDuckz
Thanks for your reply. I'm not really worried about the wax that will go on it right now, I just want the paint back to square one. Do you suggest using a rotary buffer for the scratch X process?
Any abrasive polish will take you back to the beginning or square one. Dawn does nothing for you if your going to polish anyway. I'd wash with a quality cart wash, clay then polish in that order. If you can get your hands on PC I'd say you can get your paint back to nearly flawless in 1/10 the time it will take you to do it by hand.