2001 Audi A4, thoughts?
Ideally, I'm hoping to sell it for about $10K--and the options at this price point, are well--numerous. But there is a VERY clean Audi A4 nearby, 2001 model with only 40K miles--and it's the endearing 1.8T (with manual too!)
Now, I'm aware that Audi and just the Germans in general have a sketchy reliability history, but as long as they aren't MAJOR problems (like the transmission failure rate in the e39 540i, or the failure of the water pump, etc.)--I think I can manage...
Thoughts, opinions, ideas, alternative suggestions are all welcome here.
major problems: none
minor problems: many (trunk hydrolics, glove box hing, lights that wont stay on but dealer cant find problem)
worth noting: the interior finish doesn't wear well ... it looks cool when it's new and feels pleasant to the touch and all, but as the car ages, the buttons you press all the time get really worn (my lex, and i assume yours too, does not have that problem) so the car LOOKS old & abused on the inside
is it a good car? yes, in that it has never let any of us down
would i stick with the lex and be a little more clever and/or conservative? probably
.... or just trade to an IS300
that way u wont be going that fast

if u still cant control that temptation
maybe detune the car
or run 89 octane if it doesnt ping
lol but thats like super desperate measure
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So switching to Audi for that reason, I'd say no. Now if you were craving RS4, then I'd probably say yes.
As for your speeding, it's not the car, it's you. You are like me, you like to speed. Doesn't matter what car you are in. I drive a ~440hp SC300 and a stockish 170hp Mini Cooper.
I do more bonehead moves and get into more trouble in the Cooper. It's slower, but also more nimble and better suited to mischief. My daily commute looks like a one-car police chase. I just can't help it. It's the way I am, and I accept it.
So just because you have less power doesn't mean you will behave.
My suggestion is a Valentine One radar detector. It will slow you down. Worked for me. Makes you more alert and cautious.
Good luck!

Those cars are nice, but sure have their quirks.
You'd be better off getting your GS400 detuned with a chip or something. I know they make performance enhancing chips, probably could get something to slow it down too.
A friend at work just traded his 2005 A6 3.2L (lease) and picked up a new A5. He doesn't care about the 0-60 time and drives pretty conservatively. Both cars were reprogrammed to get better mileage - so obviously the peak power took a hit.
I got a ride in his new A5 with this tune on it - and it's no slouch let me tell ya... but he'll get about 30mpg on the highway.
IMHO - the only way to have an Audi is on a lease where you have a warranty and they cover all the maintenance. A 7-8 yr old one will make you wish you didn't trade in your reliable GS.
The Consumer Reports used car reliability guide only goes back to '02, but the report for the '02 Audi 4 cyl isn't encouraging. Most of important mechanical and electrical stuff is rated low. Looks like one to avoid.
this is straigt from audiforums
Audi’s, contrary to popular belief, are reliable cars. They just need a little more attention than other cars do. A car is only going to be as reliable as you are. If you change the oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil, put in 91 or higher octane gas, and do all the other required maintenance at its recommended intervals than the car will be very reliable. These engine’s are a marvel of German technology and are capable of exceeding 200k+ miles on them no problem. The 2.8 tends to be more reliable than the 1.8T because of the lack of forced induction. Depending on which generation A4 (B5, B6, B7, etc.) they each have their own notorious flaws just like a lot of other cars. Do keep in mind though, as far as reliabilty, Audi just can't compete with a Honda or Toyota. The style and uniqueness of Audi is legendary, and makes ownership and the satisfaction of driving in general top notch compared to any other car maker. This tends to make up for any of Audis shortcomings as far as less than top notch reliability goes.
the common issues
Common problems on A4's are timing belt, control arms, tie rod ends, oil sludge, and sometimes wheel bearings, window regulators, abs module, and the sunroof. The timing belt tenioners in 97-99 models were a bad design. If you have a pre-2000, its better to do it sooner (60-70k miles) if it's never been done because of the crappy tensioner. Post-2000- You can wait an extra couple thousand miles but i would do it around 80k. If the timing belt snaps you are pretty much *****ed. It will most likely push the pistons up and bend the valves and other nasty stuff due to being an interference engine type, unless you are really lucky and didn't get internal damage. The former will require an engine rebuild. While having your timing belt changed, you also might as well change the water pump and a other belts. The best way is to buy a kit from renn-art, pure motorsports, or ecs tuning (our sponsors found in the Audi links.) Currently, purems has the cheapest kit. If you do it yourself it will run you roughly $300, or, you can get a local tuner to do it. A good price is around $600- $700, and if you take it to the stealership, it typcialy runs between $1,000 and $1,500!! Oil sludge is more of a problem for the 1.8T than the 2.8. Just make sure to use fully synthetic oil, and use the larger OEM updated oil filter (for the 1.8t.) Change it every 3-5k miles and you won't ever have to worry about this. For B5 models, the bushings and overall design are just no durable enough to go longer than 80k miles (sometimes less.) For the tie rods- it's just a bad design by Audi that tends to fail within 80k miles (for B5's) The sunroof can be troublesome in most A4's. It is usually one of two things. You either need to clean the contacts (DIY-http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html) or you need a new relay switch.
So just because you have less power doesn't mean you will behave.
My suggestion is a Valentine One radar detector. It will slow you down. Worked for me. Makes you more alert and cautious.
My suggestion is to learn to behave WITHOUT one. Instant-On radar, my friend will get you no matter what kind of black box you've got.Back on topic. Whoster.....I see you are in CA. If you are in SoCal, in a mild-climate area, you probably won't need the Quattro version....though it does help in rain also. You can look for a FWD model.......but note the remarks by several posters about the potential reliability. We've already discussed potential electrical stuff.
Last edited by mmarshall; Sep 11, 2008 at 07:10 AM.
Point is a V1 should slow him down without having to sell his GS would I think isn't a great idea. The refinement and build quality will be hard to replace. Unless of course he went with an LS.
this is straigt from audiforums
Audi’s, contrary to popular belief, are reliable cars. They just need a little more attention than other cars do. A car is only going to be as reliable as you are. If you change the oil every 5k miles with synthetic oil, put in 91 or higher octane gas, and do all the other required maintenance at its recommended intervals than the car will be very reliable. These engine’s are a marvel of German technology and are capable of exceeding 200k+ miles on them no problem. The 2.8 tends to be more reliable than the 1.8T because of the lack of forced induction. Depending on which generation A4 (B5, B6, B7, etc.) they each have their own notorious flaws just like a lot of other cars. Do keep in mind though, as far as reliabilty, Audi just can't compete with a Honda or Toyota. The style and uniqueness of Audi is legendary, and makes ownership and the satisfaction of driving in general top notch compared to any other car maker. This tends to make up for any of Audis shortcomings as far as less than top notch reliability goes.
the common issues
Common problems on A4's are timing belt, control arms, tie rod ends, oil sludge, and sometimes wheel bearings, window regulators, abs module, and the sunroof. The timing belt tenioners in 97-99 models were a bad design. If you have a pre-2000, its better to do it sooner (60-70k miles) if it's never been done because of the crappy tensioner. Post-2000- You can wait an extra couple thousand miles but i would do it around 80k. If the timing belt snaps you are pretty much *****ed. It will most likely push the pistons up and bend the valves and other nasty stuff due to being an interference engine type, unless you are really lucky and didn't get internal damage. The former will require an engine rebuild. While having your timing belt changed, you also might as well change the water pump and a other belts. The best way is to buy a kit from renn-art, pure motorsports, or ecs tuning (our sponsors found in the Audi links.) Currently, purems has the cheapest kit. If you do it yourself it will run you roughly $300, or, you can get a local tuner to do it. A good price is around $600- $700, and if you take it to the stealership, it typcialy runs between $1,000 and $1,500!! Oil sludge is more of a problem for the 1.8T than the 2.8. Just make sure to use fully synthetic oil, and use the larger OEM updated oil filter (for the 1.8t.) Change it every 3-5k miles and you won't ever have to worry about this. For B5 models, the bushings and overall design are just no durable enough to go longer than 80k miles (sometimes less.) For the tie rods- it's just a bad design by Audi that tends to fail within 80k miles (for B5's) The sunroof can be troublesome in most A4's. It is usually one of two things. You either need to clean the contacts (DIY-http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html) or you need a new relay switch.












