JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300
#1
Driver
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JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300
Hello guys, I have a Spectra Blue Mica GS300 that I just purchased a few months ago. First thing first, I upgraded the suspension to Megan LP coil-overs and got drilled/slotted rotors with pads. I ordered up and recently received my JDM 2jzgte VVTI complete swap. This swap is as complete as they come! It included the jdm ecu, ignitor, maf, harness, fuse boxes, 4-spd transmission, driveshaft, rear diff, axles, p.s. resevoir, and the aristo fuel pump assembly. I also needed to get a Supra throttle cable to get this to work properly.
Since I was going to have my hands in the area anyways while doing the install, I wanted to do some BPU. I went one step colder on the plugs, added a 255 walbro fuel pump, -6an fuel return line mated up to the aristo fuel pump assembly, and a full 3" exhaust with custom modified Supra 3" downpipe. Since the aristo auto transmissions have their limits, I added a B&M transmission cooler too.
FCD is soon to come...
Update!!! 6 years and still running like a champ!
**More pics added on page 3**
Since I was going to have my hands in the area anyways while doing the install, I wanted to do some BPU. I went one step colder on the plugs, added a 255 walbro fuel pump, -6an fuel return line mated up to the aristo fuel pump assembly, and a full 3" exhaust with custom modified Supra 3" downpipe. Since the aristo auto transmissions have their limits, I added a B&M transmission cooler too.
FCD is soon to come...
Update!!! 6 years and still running like a champ!
**More pics added on page 3**
Last edited by SBM2jLEX; 07-07-17 at 11:56 AM.
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Cool thanks. I did the wire today and the tach works fine. To my surprise a few lights are no longer showing, but i still have 2 VSC's and a CEL.. Do you have these lit up aswell? And as far as the orange plug are you talking about the plugs that are next to the ecu, orange plug thats next to the black plug?
#4
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Now that i got the tach running i can reference what rpms im at on start up. Right when i crank it up it sounds beautiful and revs at 1k rpm. It only stays there for a few seconds then drops to 750. At 750 it still sounds decent but it doesnt stay there for long either. A few seconds later it drops to around 500 and sounds kinda rough.. I thought that since the motor is cold it should idle high for a while and then will work its way down but thats not happening..
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Now that i got the tach running i can reference what rpms im at on start up. Right when i crank it up it sounds beautiful and revs at 1k rpm. It only stays there for a few seconds then drops to 750. At 750 it still sounds decent but it doesnt stay there for long either. A few seconds later it drops to around 500 and sounds kinda rough.. I thought that since the motor is cold it should idle high for a while and then will work its way down but thats not happening..
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
No im using the supra cable. Mine is idling less than that. Around 400 or so when it warms up. I tried driving it and it does fine if im light on the gas but when i get on it a lil it begins to bogg. I noticed some of the clips on my plug wires were broken so im going to replace those but idk what else it could be...
#7
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Also, what is everyone doing as far as shift lock goes? I was just thinking of taking the locking mechanish off so i dont have to press that stupid button every time i want to take it out of park.
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No im using the supra cable. Mine is idling less than that. Around 400 or so when it warms up. I tried driving it and it does fine if im light on the gas but when i get on it a lil it begins to bogg. I noticed some of the clips on my plug wires were broken so im going to replace those but idk what else it could be...
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Cool thanks. I did the wire today and the tach works fine. To my surprise a few lights are no longer showing, but i still have 2 VSC's and a CEL.. Do you have these lit up aswell? And as far as the orange plug are you talking about the plugs that are next to the ecu, orange plug thats next to the black plug?
#11
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jdm never had vsc .. jdm ecu has no ref for vsc inputs .. this has nothing to do with abs .. so vsc bulbs need to be pulled out..
idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..
shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..
shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
I just made me an intake from some old tubing i had laying around. Unfortunately i did not recieve an oem air box with my swap. I though of using my original one but since im running the side mount intercooler it does not clear. Do you think my diy intake my be the cause of the bogging?
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
jdm never had vsc .. jdm ecu has no ref for vsc inputs .. this has nothing to do with abs .. so vsc bulbs need to be pulled out..
idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..
shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
idle speed on these vvti motors are all computer controlled .. there is a very fine adjustment on the throttlebody but the ecu is going correct it back to factory settings anyway eventually.. when blusc3 car starts idle is usually close to 1k then drops to 800 ish then drops to 600-750 ish.. thats where toyota programmed these things for smoothness..
shiftlock is there on all models , there is a couple of pins to move around for tranny shiftlock , lights on the dash and tranny to shift correctly.. also make sure you are using jdm maf as the part nmumber is slightly diff then usdm maf. a couple of pins need to be moved for maf to read correctly or else cel and car will not rev past 3k
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Had the same tach and shift lock issues. I spoke to SlvrGS300 and he sent me a few pics which were deleted from my inbox. I'm not much of a gear head, but my mechanic hooked them up and it took care of the shift lock and the tach. Seng him a msg.
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I just made me an intake from some old tubing i had laying around. Unfortunately i did not recieve an oem air box with my swap. I though of using my original one but since im running the side mount intercooler it does not clear. Do you think my diy intake my be the cause of the bogging?