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Hey everybody, I am trying to remove the crank bolt on my 1jz to replace... well a bunch of stuff on the front end. Anyway, I've gone through trying to crank the engine by laying a breaker bar on the frame to break the bolt thread engagement but it's just not coming off after countless tries. I suspect a loss of compression...
I want to stay away from putting a wrench on the cam gear because I don't want to use the timing belt to immobilize the crank (for obvious reasons).
I was wondering if there was some sort of alternate method to immobilize the engine other than laying the breaker bar on the frame or the ground? What I'm looking for is some sort of a "boot" type device that can latch on to the crank pulley or dampener that will keep it from turning when I put a breaker bar and very large pipe on it.
I will tell you, keeping the serpentine belt on the accessories and jamming up one of those pulleys has been unsuccessful. Thanks for your help.
there is a toyota tool for it, i dunko were u cna get one though.
u cna probobly make one, or have one made cheap, heres what it kinda looks like
The first time we took my 2jz's off it wouldnt come off with we ended up useing i think it was a 3/4in impact with like 180psi and a **** load of air tool oil lol, n it came off
Personally used what is called a "chain wrench". Which is exactly what you expect.
If you do use it, it is ideal for you to wrap a belt (your old serpentine will do if you plan to replace it anyways) around the pulley so you do not damage the grooves.
Personally used what is called a "chain wrench". Which is exactly what you expect.
If you do use it, it is ideal for you to wrap a belt (your old serpentine will do if you plan to replace it anyways) around the pulley so you do not damage the grooves.
ya iv seen that done before too, harbor freight sell chain wrenches for like 10-15buxx
This is the Toyota crank tool...its actually two pieces. It has a black hub with 2 hardened bolts, and a shiny arm that connects to the hub with a hardened pin.
You also use this tool when you torque the flywheel bolts down so the crank doesn't turn.
You can get this at toyota spx tools...just google it, call them, and place the order. They are nice folks to deal with too. It cost me about $130 shipped for both pieces
In this pic you can see how I have a breaker bar on the nut, then a cheater over the breaker bar...
here you can see how beefy the handle is..you can also see the black hardened hub and the hardened bolts that hold the hub directly to the crank dampner pulley http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...P-IMGP1959.JPG
Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I got the bolt off using a chain wrench and two hugeeeeee cheater bars. I ordered all new pulleys from driftmotion (really good people to deal with) but my crank bolt is pretty much trashed from trying to get it off using the jerry rig method.
dealer or scrap yard will be the best place. Next time just hit with a BIG impact. That is how I got it off my NA and GET. Hit them both with the EARTHQUAKE (lol) and came off no problem.
that doesnt always work..like in my case, it didnt work at all.
Exactly, it didn't work in my case either, that's why I used a chain wrench to immobilize the pulley. That worked. But now I'm trying to find a new crank bolt since the one I took off is all burred up.
Is the 2jz crank bolt the same as the 1jz? If so I might just go to the stealership to pick one up.
i removed the rubber dust cover thingy by the flexplate and used a socket/extension on the bolts to keep the crank from spinning and then i used the leg of my engine hoist as a cheater bar and got it off....that bolt is a ***** though, it is torqued down to 147 ft. lbs. and if its never been loosened before, its not coming off very easily. Iv heard of ppl heating the bolt with a torch to loosen it up, but yeah..i wouldnt do that.
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