replacement brakes expierence?
08-24-12, 05:15 AM
#1
replacement brakes expierence?
hello guys,
the original brakes on my gs450h are not very good. On the german autobahn you sometimes feel unsafety.
after 3-4 hard braking the brakes are making noises.
So I am searching for oe replacemant brake discs and pads. In Germany are nowhere better drilled or slotted brake discs. But I have found some offers from Stoptech.
They are not to expensive but also drilled. Does someone has any ecpierence with them???
I need to have safe and good brakes when I drive 140 miles/ hour and need to brake hard.... with the original brakes it is not an enjoyment.
I hope you can help me....
the original brakes on my gs450h are not very good. On the german autobahn you sometimes feel unsafety.
after 3-4 hard braking the brakes are making noises.
So I am searching for oe replacemant brake discs and pads. In Germany are nowhere better drilled or slotted brake discs. But I have found some offers from Stoptech.
They are not to expensive but also drilled. Does someone has any ecpierence with them???
I need to have safe and good brakes when I drive 140 miles/ hour and need to brake hard.... with the original brakes it is not an enjoyment.
I hope you can help me....
08-24-12, 07:39 PM
#2
For a braking system not designed for cross drilled or slotted rotors, adding them will actually only hinder braking performance. Without upgrading calipers and more, the best bang for your buck brake upgrade is to get new OE or OE style rotors without holes or slots and a good performance brake pad compound...
Drilled and slotted rotors might dissipate heat a little faster than a standard vented rotor, but also because there is less mass, they will also heat up and potentially overheat faster as well... Drilled/slotted rotors are best used in a system designed for them, where the rotor is oversized already and designed with thicker, larger diameter rotors that can absorb more heat to start...
Drilled and slotted rotors might dissipate heat a little faster than a standard vented rotor, but also because there is less mass, they will also heat up and potentially overheat faster as well... Drilled/slotted rotors are best used in a system designed for them, where the rotor is oversized already and designed with thicker, larger diameter rotors that can absorb more heat to start...
08-28-12, 06:54 AM
#3
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I agree with mitsuguy, just switching to a drilled or slotted rotor will not instantly eliminate the brake fade you are experiencing. The biggest upgrades you can make in performance would be to switch to a more aggressive pad like Hawk HPS Street/Sport and the rotor I would look at something cryogenically treated to withstand the more aggressive pad and it will provide more resistance to warping with the high heat created driving on the autobahn.
08-31-12, 02:40 AM
#4
Thank´s for answers, but I think you do not understand my problem.
My brake disc is an oe and about 1 year old, 15k miles. But after 3-4 hard brakes on autobahn it makes noises....
I would giv the brakes an F grade...
What I really want is a good braking system without changing calipers.... the oe pads I enough I think, but not the discs... may they are getting to hot I don´t know. So because of that I´m searching for a new one...
Can you offer me something?
I am not the only one in germany with that problem. Almost everybody with a gs 450h has the same problems
My brake disc is an oe and about 1 year old, 15k miles. But after 3-4 hard brakes on autobahn it makes noises....
I would giv the brakes an F grade...
What I really want is a good braking system without changing calipers.... the oe pads I enough I think, but not the discs... may they are getting to hot I don´t know. So because of that I´m searching for a new one...
Can you offer me something?
I am not the only one in germany with that problem. Almost everybody with a gs 450h has the same problems
08-31-12, 06:25 AM
#5
What types of noises are we talking about, and after the brakes and car are allowed to cool, does the noise go away?
If your problem is heat induced, which it certainly appears to be, there is nothing more you can do short of an upgraded brake pad that works better at high temperature, or a larger brake system...
You need mass in the rotor to be able to absorb all that heat you are making, and the only way to do that is to get a larger rotor, which would require different calipers. Slotted or drilled rotors will get rid of the heat a little faster, but at the expense of not being able to absorb as much heat to start - there is simply less mass in the rotor...
Without a major brake upgrade, there are a few other options. First option is just realizing it is a big heavy car, but it was not designed for that hard of consistent braking and being a little easier on it. Another option is to get rid of some weight, whether static or rotational... last but not least, a cryo treated rotor, as Zig suggested will prevent some of the bad effects of high heat over time, but may not really do anything to remedy your situation, which appears to be high heat production and not enough time to allow it to cool off...
If your problem is heat induced, which it certainly appears to be, there is nothing more you can do short of an upgraded brake pad that works better at high temperature, or a larger brake system...
You need mass in the rotor to be able to absorb all that heat you are making, and the only way to do that is to get a larger rotor, which would require different calipers. Slotted or drilled rotors will get rid of the heat a little faster, but at the expense of not being able to absorb as much heat to start - there is simply less mass in the rotor...
Without a major brake upgrade, there are a few other options. First option is just realizing it is a big heavy car, but it was not designed for that hard of consistent braking and being a little easier on it. Another option is to get rid of some weight, whether static or rotational... last but not least, a cryo treated rotor, as Zig suggested will prevent some of the bad effects of high heat over time, but may not really do anything to remedy your situation, which appears to be high heat production and not enough time to allow it to cool off...
Last edited by mitsuguy; 08-31-12 at 07:19 AM.
09-01-12, 08:07 AM
#7
Powerslots are a good choice if you plan on going with an aftermarket slotted rotor, they offer a cryo service as well. No need to ever go drilled. In your application, it sounds like you may have glazed your pads causing the noise. Are your brakes squeaking? Your pads are cleaned as the slots mate against the friction surface of your pads; therefore creating a better, cleaner contact patch. You should see a huge improvement with adding a set of aggressive pads such as Hawks and replacing your old fluid. Many neglect their fluid. Over time the boiling point of fluid decreases causing air bubbles to form in the system creating a spongy pedal under hard braking.
Noise? Quiet brakes typically go out the window when running aggressive frictions. Aggressive compounds are usually semi-metallic and produce noise after break in.
Brakes need to be broken in properly, many people that install brakes never go through this process. Once all your new components are installed you break in according to the manufacturer's instructions. If none are given, this method has worked well for all the vehicles I have done.
1. Locate a straight road with little to no traffic.
2. Bring your vehicle speed up to 130-140 kph and press the brakes full force bringing your speed down around 10 kph, never a complete stop. ABS engagement is okay.
3. Right when you reach ~10 kph, immediately accelerate back to 130-140 kph and repeat the process four to five times.
4. Once you have slowed your vehicle from 130-140 kph to ~10 kph, you can proceed to repeating the process at a slower speed. This time, bring your vehicle speed up to ~65 kph and brake to ~10 kph, never a complete stop. Repeat three times.
5. Once completed, you are ready to let you brakes cool off. Cruise at normal street speeds or highway speeds and brake normally, try not to come to a complete stop for long periods of time. Rotor and pad warpage can be caused by staying at a full stop.
Properly breaking in your brakes will insure that any foreign materials such as grease and oil will be burned off. This procedure will also produce a unique contact patch for each rotor and its pads. This is the reason I never just change out pads when I service brakes, rotors are always replaced or at least machined flat. This procedure is similar to tempering where a temperature history is stored in the rotor and friction materials. Properly breaking in your brakes will insure you receive the most out of your components in performance and longevity.
Noise? Quiet brakes typically go out the window when running aggressive frictions. Aggressive compounds are usually semi-metallic and produce noise after break in.
Brakes need to be broken in properly, many people that install brakes never go through this process. Once all your new components are installed you break in according to the manufacturer's instructions. If none are given, this method has worked well for all the vehicles I have done.
1. Locate a straight road with little to no traffic.
2. Bring your vehicle speed up to 130-140 kph and press the brakes full force bringing your speed down around 10 kph, never a complete stop. ABS engagement is okay.
3. Right when you reach ~10 kph, immediately accelerate back to 130-140 kph and repeat the process four to five times.
4. Once you have slowed your vehicle from 130-140 kph to ~10 kph, you can proceed to repeating the process at a slower speed. This time, bring your vehicle speed up to ~65 kph and brake to ~10 kph, never a complete stop. Repeat three times.
5. Once completed, you are ready to let you brakes cool off. Cruise at normal street speeds or highway speeds and brake normally, try not to come to a complete stop for long periods of time. Rotor and pad warpage can be caused by staying at a full stop.
Properly breaking in your brakes will insure that any foreign materials such as grease and oil will be burned off. This procedure will also produce a unique contact patch for each rotor and its pads. This is the reason I never just change out pads when I service brakes, rotors are always replaced or at least machined flat. This procedure is similar to tempering where a temperature history is stored in the rotor and friction materials. Properly breaking in your brakes will insure you receive the most out of your components in performance and longevity.
Last edited by SChema; 09-01-12 at 08:10 AM.
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10-03-12, 11:00 AM
#8
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I upgraded my rotors and brake pads to ebc and they work flawlessly for my taste and driving habits. I do drive fast and furious (wink) but I also cruise as well...IMO and point of view, check out EBC Brakes and Rotors and see if that solve your problem...take care...
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