Lug nut and I think wheel hub? help please
07-26-12, 05:50 PM
#1
Lug nut and I think wheel hub? help please
Hello community. Recently I went to get my front brakes done, they checked out the back also and everything got taken care of brake wise. One thing that happened though was all lug nuts had a rough time coming off because of the rusted threads on the bolts that the lug nuts screw on too. 2 lug nuts broke, and the rest all got bent/warped/stripped (crappy material I guess).
Can I get rid of the rust with a wire brush and just get new lug nuts? If so, is there anything I can put to prevent rust? And the last question, what is a good brand of lug nut to replace mine. I have RUFF rims, not OEM, and I dont know what size of lug nut I'd need. Everything is OEM except the rim. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm running on 2 front wheels each without one lug.
Can I get rid of the rust with a wire brush and just get new lug nuts? If so, is there anything I can put to prevent rust? And the last question, what is a good brand of lug nut to replace mine. I have RUFF rims, not OEM, and I dont know what size of lug nut I'd need. Everything is OEM except the rim. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm running on 2 front wheels each without one lug.
07-26-12, 06:01 PM
#2
To prevent rust use WD40. Also, I honestly do not know how to get rid of the rust because my stud was already ruined for putting a lug in so I just replaced the wheel stud instead of fixing it. I believe it's a lot cheaper. Try searching auto shops in your area that fix wheel studs. Also, the lugs the SC uses are 12mm x 1.5mm
Last edited by DrMcPho; 07-26-12 at 06:13 PM.
07-26-12, 11:12 PM
#3
WD40 may help, but the better fix is anti-seize...
to clean corroded studs, a wire wheel is great...
if you are capable of the work yourself, wheel studs are only a dollar or two apiece, and once you replace one on a corner, doing the other 4 is pretty simple...
to clean corroded studs, a wire wheel is great...
if you are capable of the work yourself, wheel studs are only a dollar or two apiece, and once you replace one on a corner, doing the other 4 is pretty simple...
07-27-12, 06:55 AM
#4
I think you need to keep on eye on tire stores (and maybe brake shops)! They get in such a hurry with their big impact that they run the things on cross-threaded. That's the conclusion I've come to anyway, after having the same problem on two different Isuzu Troopers, and then doing brakes myself on my Ford van a couple weeks ago, popping off the hub cap to find one lug nut half way on, obviously cross-threaded! They need to carefully start them on by hand for two or three threads before the rat-tat-tat-tat gun, and I plan to make a point about it from now on!
I use anti-seize on mine --- your brakes do make considerable heat. Mitsu says replacing studs on an SC is fairly easy, and I can't contradict him. I do know that replacing them on an Isuzu trooper is a royal pain --- they really need to be pressed in, and everything behind the rotor is in the way. You might be able to chase a die over the threads and repair them. It requires a single handled, ratcheting die wrench, because all of your other studs are in the way of using a standard two handled one.
I use anti-seize on mine --- your brakes do make considerable heat. Mitsu says replacing studs on an SC is fairly easy, and I can't contradict him. I do know that replacing them on an Isuzu trooper is a royal pain --- they really need to be pressed in, and everything behind the rotor is in the way. You might be able to chase a die over the threads and repair them. It requires a single handled, ratcheting die wrench, because all of your other studs are in the way of using a standard two handled one.
07-27-12, 07:06 AM
#5
I think you need to keep on eye on tire stores (and maybe brake shops)! They get in such a hurry with their big impact that they run the things on cross-threaded. That's the conclusion I've come to anyway, after having the same problem on two different Isuzu Troopers, and then doing brakes myself on my Ford van a couple weeks ago, popping off the hub cap to find one lug nut half way on, obviously cross-threaded! They need to carefully start them on by hand for two or three threads before the rat-tat-tat-tat gun, and I plan to make a point about it from now on!
I use anti-seize on mine --- your brakes do make considerable heat. Mitsu says replacing studs on an SC is fairly easy, and I can't contradict him. I do know that replacing them on an Isuzu trooper is a royal pain --- they really need to be pressed in, and everything behind the rotor is in the way. You might be able to chase a die over the threads and repair them. It requires a single handled, ratcheting die wrench, because all of your other studs are in the way of using a standard two handled one.
I use anti-seize on mine --- your brakes do make considerable heat. Mitsu says replacing studs on an SC is fairly easy, and I can't contradict him. I do know that replacing them on an Isuzu trooper is a royal pain --- they really need to be pressed in, and everything behind the rotor is in the way. You might be able to chase a die over the threads and repair them. It requires a single handled, ratcheting die wrench, because all of your other studs are in the way of using a standard two handled one.
Most of the other times when it seems that they are cross threaded, but they are on all the way, it was caused by there being metal residue or shavings - the lug usually, is wearing out and causes this more times than not...
to replace lugs on any vehicle, the things behind the rotor get in the way, but there is generally a spot that allows you to remove and replace them... to remove, a large hammer, to install, an impact helps, but a normal wrench, and some washers under the lug...
07-27-12, 07:46 AM
#6
Thanks Mitsu. I still have one Trooper, and it has six lugs on each wheel --- beat bad ones out with a big hammer, like you said, and finally used an impact, short scrap of pipe, and flat washer to pull new ones in.
I'm running steel Toyota wheels on it for offset, sans the center caps and washers, but am still using the long, chrome lugnuts (with anti-seize). Next time the wheels come off, I'll replace them.
Everybody can ignore my last post (unless you find one half way on, of course)
I'm running steel Toyota wheels on it for offset, sans the center caps and washers, but am still using the long, chrome lugnuts (with anti-seize). Next time the wheels come off, I'll replace them.
Everybody can ignore my last post (unless you find one half way on, of course)
08-07-12, 10:02 AM
#7
Hello Ashtray,
I found the following information and thought it may be useful for your scenario:
".......... All Ruff wheels carry the manufacturor's warranties against defects in workmanship.....
http://www.thewheelconnection.com/cu...uff-wheels.php
Is there a way to contact Ruff Wheels via the manufacturer of your automobile?
Good luck,
Patricia
I found the following information and thought it may be useful for your scenario:
".......... All Ruff wheels carry the manufacturor's warranties against defects in workmanship.....
http://www.thewheelconnection.com/cu...uff-wheels.php
Is there a way to contact Ruff Wheels via the manufacturer of your automobile?
Good luck,
Patricia
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08-07-12, 10:27 AM
#8
Hello Ashtray,
I found the following information and thought it may be useful for your scenario:
".......... All Ruff wheels carry the manufacturor's warranties against defects in workmanship.....
http://www.thewheelconnection.com/cu...uff-wheels.php
Is there a way to contact Ruff Wheels via the manufacturer of your automobile?
Good luck,
Patricia
I found the following information and thought it may be useful for your scenario:
".......... All Ruff wheels carry the manufacturor's warranties against defects in workmanship.....
http://www.thewheelconnection.com/cu...uff-wheels.php
Is there a way to contact Ruff Wheels via the manufacturer of your automobile?
Good luck,
Patricia
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