Car or Tires?: 06 GS430 ADVAN A10B tires Cupping Pics
03-26-09, 08:00 AM
#31
In the conditions he tested, he may he right. ~95% the tire??
See his review here: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?p=3800027
No doubt the PS2 is the best out there for performance. But if I get close with the longevity added; I like the A/S Plus (ugg, why does it have to be directional). I guess it is to new for TR survey data.
Maybe I should not get hung up on that. These Avans maybe the real reason for all this concern. As for noise, I could put a copper truck tie on it would be quieter. I don’t remember the noise being an issue for the first 1k miles. I maybe going to far to the extreme if I get the touring tire. I would like to get about four years out of a tire though which would be around 40k miles.
See his review here: http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?p=3800027
No doubt the PS2 is the best out there for performance. But if I get close with the longevity added; I like the A/S Plus (ugg, why does it have to be directional). I guess it is to new for TR survey data.
Maybe I should not get hung up on that. These Avans maybe the real reason for all this concern. As for noise, I could put a copper truck tie on it would be quieter. I don’t remember the noise being an issue for the first 1k miles. I maybe going to far to the extreme if I get the touring tire. I would like to get about four years out of a tire though which would be around 40k miles.
Pilot Sport
Pilot Sport PS2
Pilot Sport A/S
Pilot Sport A/S Plus
If I am reading his review correctly, he is comparing the Pilot Sport A/S Plus (a relatively new tire) to the Pilot Sport, which has been on the market close to 10 years, maybe more, even... The PS2 is the successor to the Pilot Sport. With that in mind, I would agree that the A/S Plus is very close in handling performance. However, the Pilot Sport PS2 was a huge improvement in handling over the original Pilot Sport.
Same thing with Bridgestone. The original high performance Bridgestone was the Potenza S-03. A great tire, however, the replacement RE050 handles markedly better. S-03 compares to Pilot Sport, RE050 compares to PS2, RE960A/S compares to A/S Plus... what's even funnier is that many of the designs are similar. Both Michelin and Bridgestone went from directional tires in the ultra high performance section to asymmetrical tires - better wear and handling, a win win. Both also have a directional tire for their A/S tire - gives up a little in performance, but the directionality allows for better snow and rain evacuation...
I think Michelin started putting the 45k warranty in response to the 40k warranty that has always been on Bridgestones RE960's...
03-26-09, 07:09 PM
#32
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Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus installed. There is definitely a sport to the tire. Seems like I’m getting more road feedback. Not a touring tire. Only 10 miles on them.
Rear Tire
Front Tire
Rear Tire
Front Tire
03-26-09, 08:50 PM
#34
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Plan on getting that done next week when I take it in for the recall work. How many miles would it be safe to drive? I may drive my truck until then. Dealer were I’m taking it is between 30-40 miles away. I sure seem to get more feedback from the road with these tires. Seem a little harder too, but that is only driving around 10 miles so far.
03-26-09, 08:55 PM
#36
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Also, I was hoping to the get alignment numbers before and after the alignment. However they disconnect the tie rods when replacing the steering unit. Will that throw off the toe readings?
Thanks
Thanks
03-26-09, 09:01 PM
#37
I suspect your biggest problem was rear toe, but its hard to say for sure if it wasn't just bad all the way around...
yes, installing the new steering rack will completely change the front toe settings, no matter how close they get it whilst installing it... a 1/4 of a turn on a tie rod can be the difference between .20 and .04 so, unless you can talk them into checking the alignment prior to the work, you won't get accurate pre-alignment numbers... I still think you will find the rear quite a bit out of spec, or at least the high ends of the specification...
yes, installing the new steering rack will completely change the front toe settings, no matter how close they get it whilst installing it... a 1/4 of a turn on a tie rod can be the difference between .20 and .04 so, unless you can talk them into checking the alignment prior to the work, you won't get accurate pre-alignment numbers... I still think you will find the rear quite a bit out of spec, or at least the high ends of the specification...
04-02-09, 03:10 PM
#38
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Here is the alignment. The front before values are not accurate for toe since they replaced the steering rack. The back toe on one side was out. Is it correct that the camber and caster can not be adjusted on this car? New values good?
04-02-09, 05:29 PM
#39
That's weird that they said there is no camber adjustment... according to my books, there is, and also according to the labor manual there is...
if there were no camber / caster adjustments, then all you could set is toe, but according to the book, a toe-set is .7 hours, whereas a full alignment is 2.5 hours...
now, that being said, your camber / caster numbers look great... toe was your problem, and it appears they got it as close as its gonna get... other good news is that there is nothing bent in the front end - SAI and IA are good...
if there were no camber / caster adjustments, then all you could set is toe, but according to the book, a toe-set is .7 hours, whereas a full alignment is 2.5 hours...
now, that being said, your camber / caster numbers look great... toe was your problem, and it appears they got it as close as its gonna get... other good news is that there is nothing bent in the front end - SAI and IA are good...
04-02-09, 05:51 PM
#40
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Thanks,
I think he said something like it takes hardware to change it but he seemed to be thinking about it. Something about if it is off, something would have to be bent. It sounded like there were no other adjustments though. I may have understood him wrong, but it did not look like any other adjustments other than toe were done. They charge 130 dollars for an alignment. That sounds high for just a toe adjustment. Does that sound high to you?
The campaign gives them 3.1 hours to replace the steering rack including the alignment for the GS430. .1 hour of the 3.1 hours is for administration efforts.
I’m glad my car is set correctly.
I think he said something like it takes hardware to change it but he seemed to be thinking about it. Something about if it is off, something would have to be bent. It sounded like there were no other adjustments though. I may have understood him wrong, but it did not look like any other adjustments other than toe were done. They charge 130 dollars for an alignment. That sounds high for just a toe adjustment. Does that sound high to you?
The campaign gives them 3.1 hours to replace the steering rack including the alignment for the GS430. .1 hour of the 3.1 hours is for administration efforts.
I’m glad my car is set correctly.
04-02-09, 06:00 PM
#41
still weird... my bet is just that he saw the numbers and decided there was nothing worth fixing... no worries, I would have probably done the same...
most places charge one set rate for alignment whether it be toe set or full alignment (unless full alignment requires replacing parts)... $130 sounds high, but it is the dealer, so, ya know how that works...
most places charge one set rate for alignment whether it be toe set or full alignment (unless full alignment requires replacing parts)... $130 sounds high, but it is the dealer, so, ya know how that works...
04-02-09, 06:42 PM
#43
caster is not a big deal at all... caster has to do with returnability and high speed stability of the steering, large variances from side to side can also cause a pull, but it depends on the car itself as to if it will and how badly...
so long as there is not more than .5 degree variance side to side and the car doesn't pull, nothing to worry about...
higher caster numbers mean the steering centers itself more and the car has better high speed stability, with the effect that there is more wear on the steering rack as it requires more force to turn the wheels at speed... any car with 5 degrees or more of caster will typically have good to great high speed stability, so yours is nothing to worry about...
so long as there is not more than .5 degree variance side to side and the car doesn't pull, nothing to worry about...
higher caster numbers mean the steering centers itself more and the car has better high speed stability, with the effect that there is more wear on the steering rack as it requires more force to turn the wheels at speed... any car with 5 degrees or more of caster will typically have good to great high speed stability, so yours is nothing to worry about...
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