I need new breaks!
06-23-07, 10:49 PM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,446
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I need new breaks!
I think I need new breaks, cause everytime I step on the breaks it feels like i can almost touch the floor? is tthis bad?
what should i do? Looking toward a bbk anyway?
what should i do? Looking toward a bbk anyway?
06-24-07, 07:43 AM
#3
I don't think anyone is qualified to make that assumption given the information at hand...
if the pedal goes all the way to the floor, we need to do some inspecting of components...
have you gotten the brakes hot lately? when is the last time the brake fluid was replaced and bled? have you pulled the wheels to actually look at the thickness of the pads? when you do so, take a look at the pistons - see if they are wet with brake fluid? a quick inspection of the master cylinder will quickly reveal any external leaks... also check all brake lines and the ABS pump as well for leaks or wetness...
this is the order we do when checking for brake issues:
check pad thickness front and rear (also check inboard vs. outboard pad thickness - this may show a bad caliper)... if pads are bad, obviously, replace, and completely bleed brake fluid, then recheck... if pads are good, visually inspect all lines for leaks, including calipers... if leaks found, obviously, fix, replace brake fluid, bleed and recheck... if no leaks found completely bleed the brakes (you want to have all fresh fluid), and recheck... if the problem still exists, this is where it gets real fun - you need to gently clamp off each brake line on the rubber line just before the caliper (I say gently because it doesn't take too much pressure, and too much pressure will injure the line)... Anyways, clamp off all 4 lightly, and jump in the car - see what the pedal does now... if it's solid, you have a leaky caliper (you just can't see it) - one corner at a time, remove the line clamps and recheck - whichever corner the pedal goes limp, is the caliper that needs rebuilt/replaced (and I always recommend doing them in pairs)... if the pedal is still limp even after clamping off all of the lines, then you either have a leak in a line that you missed, the abs pump is leaking internally, or the master cylinder is bad... the ABS pump is hard to diagnose, so let's check the master first... you need to disconnect the brake lines from the master, and plug them... once both output ports are plugged, press the brake pedal - it shouldn't move hardly at all... it will drop just a little bit and hold steady... if it sinks slowly, the master is bad... if it's solid, and the rest of the brake checks came out good, then good chance the ABS pump is leaking internally... I'll see if I can find the diag procedures for the pump (some have check valves for this purpose, but I don't know if ours do or not)
hope this helps...
if the pedal goes all the way to the floor, we need to do some inspecting of components...
have you gotten the brakes hot lately? when is the last time the brake fluid was replaced and bled? have you pulled the wheels to actually look at the thickness of the pads? when you do so, take a look at the pistons - see if they are wet with brake fluid? a quick inspection of the master cylinder will quickly reveal any external leaks... also check all brake lines and the ABS pump as well for leaks or wetness...
this is the order we do when checking for brake issues:
check pad thickness front and rear (also check inboard vs. outboard pad thickness - this may show a bad caliper)... if pads are bad, obviously, replace, and completely bleed brake fluid, then recheck... if pads are good, visually inspect all lines for leaks, including calipers... if leaks found, obviously, fix, replace brake fluid, bleed and recheck... if no leaks found completely bleed the brakes (you want to have all fresh fluid), and recheck... if the problem still exists, this is where it gets real fun - you need to gently clamp off each brake line on the rubber line just before the caliper (I say gently because it doesn't take too much pressure, and too much pressure will injure the line)... Anyways, clamp off all 4 lightly, and jump in the car - see what the pedal does now... if it's solid, you have a leaky caliper (you just can't see it) - one corner at a time, remove the line clamps and recheck - whichever corner the pedal goes limp, is the caliper that needs rebuilt/replaced (and I always recommend doing them in pairs)... if the pedal is still limp even after clamping off all of the lines, then you either have a leak in a line that you missed, the abs pump is leaking internally, or the master cylinder is bad... the ABS pump is hard to diagnose, so let's check the master first... you need to disconnect the brake lines from the master, and plug them... once both output ports are plugged, press the brake pedal - it shouldn't move hardly at all... it will drop just a little bit and hold steady... if it sinks slowly, the master is bad... if it's solid, and the rest of the brake checks came out good, then good chance the ABS pump is leaking internally... I'll see if I can find the diag procedures for the pump (some have check valves for this purpose, but I don't know if ours do or not)
hope this helps...
06-24-07, 02:03 PM
#4
06-24-07, 02:18 PM
#5
06-29-07, 05:16 PM
#6
Lexus Champion
Mitsuguy.
Thanks for the info. I am having this same issue. I was coming thru to see which brake pads to get. So does your pedal going to the floor mean that you are leaking brake fluid?
//Darius
Thanks for the info. I am having this same issue. I was coming thru to see which brake pads to get. So does your pedal going to the floor mean that you are leaking brake fluid?
//Darius
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GoCarSc300
Suspension and Brakes
4
04-16-09 03:11 PM
