1uscfan

You're car looks awesome, I think the stance is perfect. Two questions; first, are you having any clearance issues in the front? Second, what size tire are you running on the front?
Thanks!

smomin23

Hey man you have any rubbing issues? Cause that is the exact drop I'm going for to the dot. Idk if I should anymore though cause I hear it causes problems in AWD 4GS-F's :/ also you remember the model on the rims?

Too dope bro. My compliments to you!

JoshIS408

iTrader: (11)

Hey,

I am currently in the market for some coilovers now and had one more quick question, is the Sport Mode / Sport + / Eco mode still select-able on the vehicle or is that disabled?

Best Regards,

Josh V.

SNiiP3R

iTrader: (3)

With coilovers you lose only the Sport+ mode.

ronfsp

What a waste... Changing out the high quality F Sport suspension for a set of cheapo made in Taiwan BC coilover... Sorry for being blunt here but It's really a waste. F Sport suspension system are " tuned" with lots of R & D put into it. It's more like a downgrade to me. Not scaring you but be prepared for lots of knocking & squeaking noise after 1 year or 20K km milage of use on this set of BC coilovers. BC coilovers are "famous" for knocking & squeaking noise after a while... Good luck!

sincityIS

what a stupid design if you can't adjust the rears while they are on the car.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

I never had issues with BC. I guess I missed the complaint threads.

lexusis07

iTrader: (7)

you can still select all modes but sport + doesnt do anything more then sport.



As i said in the OP I honestly dont care at all what you think about me "destroying" my oh so amazing tuned suspension from lexus. the only reason i bought an f sport was for the black headliner. BC is the best coilovers ive ever ran and the only reason they would ever knock is because the locking collar is lose or the pre load is not set. My GS is a clean and classy daily and is by no means a slammed car. it rides IMO better with my BC's then stock.

yeah.... this. its a PITA when installing it but once you get it set you dont need to worry about it agin...

CubaFsport

Thank you for sharing this, Ive had my coilerovers sitting in the trunk for like 7 months got worried about the auto dampening lol. This was the positivity I was looking for.

richard203

iTrader: (1)

where did you put ur jack stand on the rear?

the2ndr

I jack up the rear from the differential and place the jack stands on the rear pinch weld locations. Before tightening the control arm bolt that allows the arm to pivot and drop I put ramps under each tire and lower it and then tightening that bolt since the car is sitting on its weight.

I had my RSR Basic Active coilovers for 2 years and just decided to put them on over the weekend. Took me 8 hours in the driveway. I'm still sore today Going to have alignment shop install the SPC arms and align it in the next week or 2.

I actually lowered the spring adjuster a little more than what's in the picture attached below. I doubt I'm going to take this back apart anytime soon. You have to remove the whole thing if you want to adjust the ride height in the rear. I get no rubbing at this height and it even settled another quarter inch lower than this pic. Wheels are 20x8.5+32 and 20x10+45 and tires are 245/35 and 275/30. Also want to note that the AVS Motor brackets that come with these RSR coilovers are too thick and you must reuse your OEM AVS Motor brackets. The instructions say to use your oem as well, but not sure why it also says do not remove the center rod shaft bolt for the struts up front? You have to remove that center nut of the rod or you can't get the RSR AVS motor bracket off that do not fit. If you don't plan on using AVS then you can just install as is and not even connect the AVS motors at all. My car is a 2013 RWD btw.

As far as ride quality. I had 70k miles on my shocks and these are maybe 30% more firm, but absorbs bumps better. The car is more composed going over bumps and doesn't feel floaty at all in normal mode. Can't tell much difference between normal and Sport+ mode other than steering wheel effort and throttle changes. I'm satisfied with the ride and I currently have no noises or vibrations. It doesn't ride like a civic with cut springs from 20 years ago. I was debating selling the car, but will probably hold on to it for a little longer unless someone makes me an offer I can't refuse. Hope this helps!

tekno2566

I’m need some assistance regarding the rear. The DIY instructions in the OP said that you don’t need to preload the rear due to the divorced setup, but the bc racing video said to compress the spring 7-10mm to set the preload.

I followed the video which worked fine, but I am replacing the upper control arm with SPC to adjust the camber. The axle is sagging a bit if I don’t put load on the axle, but SPC recommends putting load on the axle before tightening the bolts. If I do that then wouldn’t the spring preload and/or dampener be affected?

Also, I’m not sure how much load to put on the axle to mimic as if it was on the ground. Should the upper control arm be parallel to the ground or possibly a bit lower based on the coilover height?

Unfortunately, I don’t have ramps so I’m improvising by using a jack as load on the axle.

kietlander

Measure fender to hub center that you wish to be at before you start and tighten the upper control arm once you jack up the rear to that height. This can be done before you even put the rear shock and spring in. Install the rear spring and shock as is from factory and adjust from there. It's such a pain to adjust the height because you pretty much have to unbolt the suspension arms from the the bottom, adjust, check, and adjust again if needed.