RageRacerM

Apologies for the multiple threads, but my car is just at the point in time where it needs maintenance, and figured might as well keep the topics separate.

Onwards:

Front brake pads are at 4mm each after less than 20,000 miles (spirited canyon runs to blame). Rears are fine.

Service advisor recommended brake change at the 50k mark (currently at 45k).

Rotors:
He could not say if the rotors needed to be changed as the tech did not thoroughly inspect for defects at this most recent visit... Vehicle does not pulsate when braking, and there really isnt much to comment on my vehicle's rotor behavior. So maybe they're fine? Maybe I dont even need to resurface them? As far as rotors go, would either stay OEM, but considering Brakenetic GT Series (Ive read that Brakenetic are modified centric rotors, but cannot confirm if thats true or not).

Pads:
So as far as pads go, I have been perfectly happy with the OEM Mark Textar pads. I'm probably in the minority here, but the brake dust is something im okay living with. I dont want Akebonos, as I had them on a previous car and I personally noticed a significant difference in bite and stopping power. Not a fan. What did catch my eye was Project Mu Type NS pads.

Project Mu Type NS vs Textar pads.

I could easily grab a front pair of Textar pads for roughly $60 on lexuspartsnow, whereas P.mu are ~$125 on modinjapan's website. What I want to know is if Project Mu really is worth double the price tag. I drive regularly in the cities, but every now and then, I find myself in the canyons driving maybe at 8/10s at the very most. The Textars have held up wonderfully, so I kind of see Project Mu as a hard sell.

Someone convince me otherwise.

Thanks.

ModInJapan

iTrader: (5)

From what I've read, TEXTAR makes oem brake pads so if you ok with your OEM, then those will do just fine for you.
Project MU TYPE NS is not OEM equivalent pads. They have a little more bite, higher temp rating(less likely to have brake fade) and way less dust which everyone hates.

Hope that helps.

PS, if you want the PMU, dm me so i can quote you lower than what we have on our web

RageRacerM

Thank you to modinjapan for that information.


I'm following up now with a picture of the rotors to help show what I'm working with. Including just one side because they're similar enough in my eyes. Thinking I do, in fact, need new rotors...

Pads are done. Definitely need new ones...

There is an obvious and pronounced lip at the outer edge. I don't have a micrometer to measure thickness. I didnt feel any obvious grooving when feeling the rotor surface. Bought the vehicle with 26k on the clock, and no idea if these are the original rotors that were previously resurfaced...

RageRacerM

Also, how important is it to use a micrometer? And to measure rotor runout? On my previous vehicle, I just slapped on rotors and pads without giving these things any thought, but I'd rather go about things properly these days...

Flash5

For the most part, on the forums that's what I've seen. Everyone is just replacing and not doing the rotor runout etc. I will probably just swap without doing all that and call it a day. lol