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I have a 93 Sc300 Non VVTi with AEM vs.2 and I am having trouble figuring out the pins to put the coils into! Can anyone help me with this!!
I have a Mojo Performance Kit with the IGF box on its way...
Aem doesn't use IGF so you don't need to install the IGF box. The pins the coils go into at the ecu are the spots for the factory tt pins, look at a 2jzgte ecu pinout or ask Mojo for the diagram.
Ended up picking up a set of Coils off of a VQ37VHR. They look prettdy damn close to the VR38DETT GTR coils that are all the rage and I suspect their only real difference is their mounting point is a little lower and the stem is a different length but the stems are removable and it seems there are already kits people are using on the 2jzgte with the GTR coils so It shouldnt be an issue running these. I bought a FFIM but they may even be able to fit under the crossover intake manifold.
Here's some pics:
These are the R35 GTR VR38DETT coils on a nice aluminum cnc mount with the JZ boots
Thank you very much for this thread! Awesome Upgrade. I do have some questions however in regards to vvti doing this mod. I did see user "sc3rrt" was attempting this in his sc300, but looked like he had to do some extensive wiring as well that he got from Grubbs? build page.
I'm getting tons of mixed answers and I'd just like a little clarification.
1. Plug JDM MAF in like normal (no wiring needed)
2. Plug in MAP sensor (+5v lead & sensor ground spliced into TPS +5v & sensor Ground / Map signal wire to ECU Plug B2 Pin 9 - Pressure Intake Manifold (PIM)
3. Pop in 400cc 7M injectors with resistor pack
Is there more wiring I need to do to get this to work? I'm on the FB forums and one guy said he had his setup running like this for a while with no issues, no other wiring going on but kind of had to believe when sc3rrt was posting tons of other wiring diagrams?
I have been working on installing the NA-T ECU mod with an Aristo ECU over the past couple weeks and this afternoon I finally got the car to turn over. However, the idle is extremely rough to the point there it stalls and dies unless I give it gas. While it's idling, I can hear the IACV sucking in air and if I put my hand over the IACV intake I can feel suction and the car will stall, so it seems like that is working. My first thought was obviously to check for vacuum leaks, but I haven't seen anything obvious. Every single port on the intake manifold either has a vacuum line or is capped, the manifold and runners are tight and the throttle body is tight. I did not, however, plug in the brown connector for the vacuum canister nor the blue VSV connector + vac lines in step #8 of the guide. I assumed that since I was not using the stock GE crossover manifold and I completely removed the EGR system, that I would not need to mess with all those VSVs/vac hardlines, but I've never done this before so I could be wrong. I thought that as long as air wasn't getting into the intake manifold somehow through a vacuum leak, I would be good.
My build info for reference:
JZS147 Aristo GTE ECU (automatic ECU)
R150 manual swapped
OsideTiger 440CC injectors
OEM GTE Map Sensor (vac line is connected)
OEM GTE IAT Sensor
OEM non-VVTi GTE Intake manifold (using adapter flange)
EGR Delete (JDM GTE FFIM doesn't have EGR, removed the entire EGR system and used a block off plate on the 2JZGE block side)
2JZGE VVTi coil setup w/DS62 Igniter/using distributor as my CPS
OEM SC400 IACV
The engine idles so poorly that I can't even shift into 1st or reverse--it just kills the engine because it can't handle the load. Unfortunately I ran out of gas as well (tank was almost empty on purpose when I started the project) so I can't go out and test anything until tomorrow. Let me know if there is any other info I can provide.
I have been working on installing the NA-T ECU mod with an Aristo ECU over the past couple weeks and this afternoon I finally got the car to turn over. However, the idle is extremely rough to the point there it stalls and dies unless I give it gas. While it's idling, I can hear the IACV sucking in air and if I put my hand over the IACV intake I can feel suction and the car will stall, so it seems like that is working. My first thought was obviously to check for vacuum leaks, but I haven't seen anything obvious. Every single port on the intake manifold either has a vacuum line or is capped, the manifold and runners are tight and the throttle body is tight. I did not, however, plug in the brown connector for the vacuum canister nor the blue VSV connector + vac lines in step #8 of the guide. I assumed that since I was not using the stock GE crossover manifold and I completely removed the EGR system, that I would not need to mess with all those VSVs/vac hardlines, but I've never done this before so I could be wrong. I thought that as long as air wasn't getting into the intake manifold somehow through a vacuum leak, I would be good.
My build info for reference:
JZS147 Aristo GTE ECU (automatic ECU)
R150 manual swapped
OsideTiger 440CC injectors
OEM GTE Map Sensor (vac line is connected)
OEM GTE IAT Sensor
OEM non-VVTi GTE Intake manifold (using adapter flange)
EGR Delete (JDM GTE FFIM doesn't have EGR, removed the entire EGR system and used a block off plate on the 2JZGE block side)
2JZGE VVTi coil setup w/DS62 Igniter/using distributor as my CPS
OEM SC400 IACV
The engine idles so poorly that I can't even shift into 1st or reverse--it just kills the engine because it can't handle the load. Unfortunately I ran out of gas as well (tank was almost empty on purpose when I started the project) so I can't go out and test anything until tomorrow. Let me know if there is any other info I can provide.
Thanks!
Why the sc400 IACV? i don think that will work well on a 2jzgte ecu. you need one from an SC300 or Soarer or supra.
"you can also use the one off a mk3 turbo or an ls400, they are nearly identical to the TT one and utilize the exact same flange, you can find one used for cheap. only difference between those and the mk4 supra turbo is the angle the on the various barbs coming off of it, which makes no difference whatsoever. I would cut the coolant barbs off anyways and bypass it for a clean install."
You all realize this is in the suspension forum right? I rarely look in here lol.
I'll ask Kahn to move it to the performance section.
Crevasse is good at searching! The 1uz IACV has the same connector as the 2jzgte one and works in the same way, just has different barbs for the different coolant lines, here you can see I sawed one off and later I removed the other 2 also.
You can just run a filter on it if you are using a map sensor ecu (non vvti). If you are using the vvti ecu with the maf you will have to route that to the intercooler piping post turbo to not have unmetered air in the system.
Don't forget the gte check valve and grommet etc.. part numbers are floating around somewhere here.
Here is a picture of a sc400 one mounted on my last FFIM on the '95
On an extra 96 2jzge I had laying around for mockup at the time.
How the '95 SC3 looked before I sold it, IACV is completely hidden underneath. Idled perfectly like it did when it was stock too.
I have been working on installing the NA-T ECU mod with an Aristo ECU over the past couple weeks and this afternoon I finally got the car to turn over. However, the idle is extremely rough to the point there it stalls and dies unless I give it gas. While it's idling, I can hear the IACV sucking in air and if I put my hand over the IACV intake I can feel suction and the car will stall, so it seems like that is working. My first thought was obviously to check for vacuum leaks, but I haven't seen anything obvious. Every single port on the intake manifold either has a vacuum line or is capped, the manifold and runners are tight and the throttle body is tight. I did not, however, plug in the brown connector for the vacuum canister nor the blue VSV connector + vac lines in step #8 of the guide. I assumed that since I was not using the stock GE crossover manifold and I completely removed the EGR system, that I would not need to mess with all those VSVs/vac hardlines, but I've never done this before so I could be wrong. I thought that as long as air wasn't getting into the intake manifold somehow through a vacuum leak, I would be good.
My build info for reference:
JZS147 Aristo GTE ECU (automatic ECU)
R150 manual swapped
OsideTiger 440CC injectors
OEM GTE Map Sensor (vac line is connected)
OEM GTE IAT Sensor
OEM non-VVTi GTE Intake manifold (using adapter flange)
EGR Delete (JDM GTE FFIM doesn't have EGR, removed the entire EGR system and used a block off plate on the 2JZGE block side)
2JZGE VVTi coil setup w/DS62 Igniter/using distributor as my CPS
OEM SC400 IACV
The engine idles so poorly that I can't even shift into 1st or reverse--it just kills the engine because it can't handle the load. Unfortunately I ran out of gas as well (tank was almost empty on purpose when I started the project) so I can't go out and test anything until tomorrow. Let me know if there is any other info I can provide.
Thanks!
When changing the ecu you have to adjust the timing, maybe this is the issue.
03-05-19, 08:23 PM
Coil Conversion AEM vs2 Non VVTi
The 1uz IACV has the same connector as the 2jzgte one and works in the same way, just has different barbs for the different coolant lines, here you can see I sawed one off and later I removed the other 2 also.
timing
