HELP, Can't remove the rear strut after 4 hours of trying
07-31-18, 11:18 AM
#16
if the sway bar creates tension on the lower arm its not going to give you enough room to pull the shock. You'll need to fully disconnect it. One way to stop it from spinning is by taking some vice grips and pinching the ball joint on the endlink (the back side of the ball) to see if you can create enough friction to remove the bolt; that is if you cant use an open ended wrench on the nut and putting an allen key in the face of the threaded part of the endlink. This is where you might find it easier to cut off the end link and replace it than to fight the ball spinning in the endlink while trying to get the nut off.
07-31-18, 11:40 AM
#17
It can be done without spring compressors. It isn't easy, but it can be done. The way I posted above is how I do it every time.
If you can't get it done by yourself, then ask a friend to come over to jump up and down on the hub while you pull the spring/shock out. You'll have to time it to where you pull the spring while your friend lands on the hub. It's not an easy task to do with 2 people because if you time it wrong, it's easy to pinch your fingers in a place you don't want it to be.
Your other option is to disconnect the sway bar endlink and the LCA at the camber bolt side. That way the arm drops out of the way, but you'll have to deal with trying to reconnect everything later on.
If you can't get it done by yourself, then ask a friend to come over to jump up and down on the hub while you pull the spring/shock out. You'll have to time it to where you pull the spring while your friend lands on the hub. It's not an easy task to do with 2 people because if you time it wrong, it's easy to pinch your fingers in a place you don't want it to be.
Your other option is to disconnect the sway bar endlink and the LCA at the camber bolt side. That way the arm drops out of the way, but you'll have to deal with trying to reconnect everything later on.
07-31-18, 05:47 PM
#20
Be careful b4 disassembling the strut.
Take a white crayon and make marks on hat, coil,etc.
It needs to align PERFECTLY when u reassemble it, or u WILL have to repeat it again and again,..
Two questions:
Take a white crayon and make marks on hat, coil,etc.
It needs to align PERFECTLY when u reassemble it, or u WILL have to repeat it again and again,..
Two questions:
- R the end links destroyed?
- Did u have that cold One?
07-31-18, 06:13 PM
#22
Mark hat where the coil end sits in rubber--you'll see an 'indent in the rubber--. Trace ALL the way down. This is to make sure the 3 strut screws on top lign up to holes in trunk.
The end link: did u see the 'star' opening opposite the 12 mm nut? This is usually rusted. U'll need a ratchet wrench w bit to hold it and screw the 12mm. If not' hold it w plier around rubber. If leaking grease u'll need a new one------>expensive one part but don't cheap out.
The end link: did u see the 'star' opening opposite the 12 mm nut? This is usually rusted. U'll need a ratchet wrench w bit to hold it and screw the 12mm. If not' hold it w plier around rubber. If leaking grease u'll need a new one------>expensive one part but don't cheap out.
08-01-18, 10:35 PM
#30
The hydraulic keeps on extending because it still works properly. Listen to spectrablu and keep on pressing down on the hub. The LCA has to drop quite a bit before you'll have the clearance to remove the oem shock. Did you remember to remove the endlinks in the front too?