sung35

Hey guy, any of you out there know how to remove the rear brake pads and retract the cylinder so new brake pads can be installed?

I remove the rear brake housing yesterday and found that it not the same as my other 1990 Toyota Cressida and 1998 Ford Explorer. First, I had problem removing the rear brake pads. It has a metal clamp that hooks onto a pin that holds the 2 pads. How can I remove the metal clamp? Second, there are two cyclinders on each of the brakes. Can I still use the C-clamp to retract the cyclinder? Or is there a specific tool for this? the C-clamp seems not to be the right tool.

I am a DIY guy because I know that I will be tendered with the car and also want to save some money...

I have searched the site but none seem to address the issue. Thank you in advance for all your input.

Hung

kvoman

You should be able to use the C-clamp to bleed the cylinder, you may have to put a small piece of wood or some thing flat across the cylinder to have the C-clamp rest on it before you bleed it.

RON430

I haven't done the pads on the GS but most rear disk setups I have seen lately do not have a piston that just pushes back in like the front. It screws in. If the piston surface has some slots in it, you are almost guaranteed that it is one of the ones that need to be screwed in. Nothing against being hands on but a manual might be in order, just part of the economics of saving money doing it yourself.

VVT-i

You have to remove a little clip at the end of the pin, then push up on the metal plate. Please pay attention on the designed of the pin, the center part of the pin is smaller(for the metal plate to slide in place). Then you can use a big channel lock to compress the piston or you can use a screw driver to compress the brake pads. No special tool need to compress the piston.

mapleleaf

I just replaced all four rotors and pads for my 99 GS4 the last weekend. It took me 2.5 hours.
This caliper design is a little different than what I have seen on the other vehicles.
To remove the pad, use the flat screw driver and push down on the clip where it is locked to the pin, using the pin as a leverage, twist the screw driver to remove the clip.
I was able to use a c-clamp to compress the piston on the side without the hydralic line.
Use a long screw driver push in the other piston.
I cleaned the caliper area that hold the pads so it is free of rust. Make sure the pad can slide into the caliper smoothly. Installed new pads. slide in the pin, then push the clip, so it locked onto the pin.
Install the two 17mm bolt that hold the caliper to the hub.
install wheels and torque all lug nuts to 100 newton-meter.
Now put a smile on your face and go for a test drive.

sung35

Thank you Mapleleaf and VVT-i. I will try it again this weekend. One more question, do I have to uncrew the bleeding valve to releave the pressure when compressing the cylinders? I used to uncap the master cylinder in the engine compartment and remove some of the brake lubricant. I did it like that because it seemed to help.

I really love this site since owning my 2000 GS4 in June this year. You all are truely Lexus enthusiast. Straight question always responses with direct answer. Thank you.

Hung

Carpe Diem

Many believe that you should not force brake fluid back up an ABS system. I generally just unscrew the bleeder valve, attach a little hose and catch whatever fluid gets pushed out in a coffee can. This also makes it a lot easier to reset the pistons.

mapleleaf

I did not unscrew the bleeder valve and was able to push the piston in the caliper with ease.
If you encounter difficulty, unscrew the cap at the brake fluid reservior and relief the pressure by loosening the bleeder valve will help. However, I must caution you doing this.
To prevent air in the brake line, either bleed the brake system or following this guideline to prevent air entering the hydralic system.
Have someone help you when doing this. You apply pressure on the piston, have your partner loosen the bleeder valve a little. You keep applying constant pressre to the piston and push it all the way in a smooth motion(don't stop pushing the piston while the bleeder valve is still open). Your partner tighten the bleeder valve right away right before you completly push the piston in.
In my opinion, I will prefer to bleed the brake after you are done with this procedure. Just to make sure you got a safe brake without air in there. Having air in the hydralic line may lead to mushy brake feel and possible brake failure.
Good luck with finishing your brake job this weekend.
Ben

sung35

I followed the instruction here and had no problem replacing my rear brakes. Thank you guy. It was easy once knowing what to do.

I did not unscrew the bleeding valve and still be able to compress the cylinders with my hands. Thank Mapleleaf for making this possible.

Now the front brake... Nah, next year.

Hung