HUS4144

Went in for a brake evaluation knowing that the brakes were going to need servicing. I first went to Sears where I was told that the pads needed to be replaced while the rotors could be resurfaced. I visited another shop today for an inspection and was told that the brakes were in awful shape and everything needed to be replaced (all pads and rotors) and quoted $945. They were "surprised" that Sears had even let me drive away after they had completed their inspection. The Sears inspection had showed about 1.5mm left on the pads (I know, that's bad) while the other shop is telling me there is 0.

I've made a few calls to some other shops and have been quoted mainly around $600-$700. Is there a significant in the quality of brakes that I choose to get. Last shop I spoke with wanted to charge $810 because they wanted to put original rotors on it rather than something aftermarket. Does that make a difference?

Sorry for all of the questions but any help is appreciated as I'm not the most mechanical guy!

08treefidd

iTrader: (2)

I buy from Brake Motive on ebay. They sell drilled rotors (zinc so they don't rust) and ceramic pads (no dust issues). I drive my car hard, I've put the brakes on my diesel, my 4runners, even my Mustang's. Never had an issue with the parts. I used them on my IS350, $202 SHIPPED for front and rear rotors, pads, clips. Save yourself $500+ and do it yourself. Brake's on this car are NOT hard.

Use a C-clamp to move pistons back in on the surface of the old brake pad. It's 2 bolts per caliper and a simple spring/pin mechanism to remove pads. While you are in there, GREASE YOUR REAR SLIDER PINS. They notoriously seize, mine were an my car is out of the rust belt/low mileage car. Otherwise, simple hand tools, jack and a single jack stand if you do one corner at a time will suffice.

This is the link to what I purchased; http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-D...53.m2749.l2649

Not endorsed or anything by these people, but I like cost effective things that work. Good luck.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with aftermarket. You can buy OEM parts off eBay and install them yourself. No difference between aftermarket and OEM for daily driving.

PapaCat

Hi XSV:
Regarding rotors, the Lexus dealership here in NYC gave me an estimate of $790 for new pads, as well as a resurfacing of the rotors on my 2011 IS250C. Naturally, I won't bite. However, because all pads are allegedly 3MM, I will start getting serious about replacing them. I have two questions:
1. What is the minimum width for pads before it is recommended to replace them. (I was waiting to hear them squeak before doing anything. Is that safe?)
2. I'm reluctant to have my rotors resurfaced for no other reason other than to smooth them out for the new pads. In your opinion, is it necessary to resurface them whenever new pads are installed?

Darqhelmet

You need to at least sand the glaze off your rotors so the new pads can bed to them. No reason to not smooth them out by resurfacing them at the same time. Or do what I do and plug new rotors on with pads. You can get good after market rotors for the price most places charge to turn them.

andper10

This is not needed if you are using the same replacement brake pad compound. I also skip doing that when changing between track and street brake pads with different compounds without any ill effects per advice from others on this forum, but some may argue you should do this when changing pad compounds. But don't use sandpaper since it can cause rotor issues, use garnet paper instead.

Darqhelmet

20 years and I have never had problems using sand paper to clean up rotors when I couldn't replace them for some reason. But sure Garnet paper works just fine too. Just use something to knock the glaze off. And depending on the pads you could be doing some damage or have reduced performance.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/perfo...treet/pads/hps
Expand the installation instructions and read step 6. Hawk engineers VS arm chair cowboys on the forum. Going with Hawk Engineers. You can also find similar instructions from EBC, Brembo, Wilwood, etc.

andper10

To be clear, I wasn't advocating against bedding in new pads. I still go through the manufacturer's recommended pad bedding process after changing brake pads but without doing anything to the rotors. YMMV if you do this when switching between different pad compounds on the same rotors but I was just sharing my experience.

It is unnecessary to do anything to the rotors if you are just replacing pads with the same compound that was previously used on those rotors according to Carbotech. You should still follow the new pad bedding procedure though. That is assuming there is no vibration under braking and the rotors still exceed minimum thickness.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.asp#bedding5

Also Stoptech advises against using regular sandpaper on brake rotors:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths#

XSV

iTrader: (1)

The minimum spec for pads is 1mm; however, I wouldn't recommend letting the pads get that low. Hearing the brakes squeak could be a sign that the pads are at the point of replacement; however, Lexus stock brakes tend to squeak regardless. The best way to determine if they need replacement is taking them out and measuring. As for rotor resurfacing, I don't do it when I change my pads. I've worked on a few cars and no problems with any of them. I'm sure there is some benefit for the resurfacing; however it believe the dealership does it to nickel and dime you.