New brake discs and brake pads pulsating when braking at highway speeds
09-25-17, 03:58 AM
#1
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New brake discs and brake pads pulsating when braking at highway speeds
Hi All,
I know this question has been asked but I thought it would be better to start a new thread in hopes I can get help resolving this issue.
The mechanic put new brake discs and pads on my IS 250 about two weeks ago. Now when I brake at highway speeds I get that pulsatiing feeling. It only happens at +120km/h(+75m/h) and not at lower town driving speeds.
I took it back to him but it came back with the same problem. I'll be taking it in again tomorrow but I need some experienced advice. Any advice would be greatly apprecaited as it's scaring the $**t out of me.
Thanks
I know this question has been asked but I thought it would be better to start a new thread in hopes I can get help resolving this issue.
The mechanic put new brake discs and pads on my IS 250 about two weeks ago. Now when I brake at highway speeds I get that pulsatiing feeling. It only happens at +120km/h(+75m/h) and not at lower town driving speeds.
I took it back to him but it came back with the same problem. I'll be taking it in again tomorrow but I need some experienced advice. Any advice would be greatly apprecaited as it's scaring the $**t out of me.
Thanks
09-25-17, 06:25 AM
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09-25-17, 10:08 AM
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Is it an older year model? The old ones like the '06+ likely have rust in the brake pistons typically one of the two pistons seize to work causing brake pads to put uneven pressure against the rotor and cause the brake pad to wobble resulting in vibration when braking at high speeds. This is very destructive because it can easily damage (warp / bend) the rotor too. You might want to check the brake pistons you can test it by lifting the car up, take out the brake pads and gently press on the brake one or two at a time and check to see how the pistons in the brake caliper come out. If the rubber cover for the piston is torn and has rust built up all around the piston then it's no good. You may also see one of the pistons (or both) seized to work as a result. If this is the case then brake caliper will have to be replaced. And replace the rotor too if it's bent.
Last edited by cheezz; 09-25-17 at 10:16 AM.
09-25-17, 12:46 PM
#5
If your area allows, take the car up to highway speeds and then pull over to safe area using little to no brakes.
If your rotors are hot or really warm it indicates the caliper(s) are not properly retracting. Rotors should hardly be warm to the touch when all is well.
The rears are floating calipers. If they don't slide, this is drag and could cause this as could a stuck piston or a lot of air trapped.
If your rotors are hot or really warm it indicates the caliper(s) are not properly retracting. Rotors should hardly be warm to the touch when all is well.
The rears are floating calipers. If they don't slide, this is drag and could cause this as could a stuck piston or a lot of air trapped.
09-25-17, 12:52 PM
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It's a 2008 Model
Is it an older year model? The old ones like the '06+ likely have rust in the brake pistons typically one of the two pistons seize to work causing brake pads to put uneven pressure against the rotor and cause the brake pad to wobble resulting in vibration when braking at high speeds. This is very destructive because it can easily damage (warp / bend) the rotor too. You might want to check the brake pistons you can test it by lifting the car up, take out the brake pads and gently press on the brake one or two at a time and check to see how the pistons in the brake caliper come out. If the rubber cover for the piston is torn and has rust built up all around the piston then it's no good. You may also see one of the pistons (or both) seized to work as a result. If this is the case then brake caliper will have to be replaced. And replace the rotor too if it's bent.
09-25-17, 09:34 PM
#7
Check your rear calipers, my 08 with low miles just had seized brake calipers. Ironically enough, 4k miles prior to my ownership, the previous took it to Lexus for new front and rear brake pads/rotors. Receipt was in the car as well as a Carfax notation. Problem? I bought drilled rotors and ceramic pads so it looked cleaner behind my new wheels, an the rear calipers were both SEIZED. I mean I beat them both with a 5 lb mini-sledge and I'm not gentle to begin with, tried my 3 foot prybar, got one side to barely move 1/4" before I gave up.
I experienced very minor brake pedal pulsation, no pulling, I just noticed the car took a bit more effort then I felt acceptable when under 10 mph to come to a complete stop. It always seemed to have extra rolling energy, this all became obvious once I discovered the pads/rotors. This had happened so recent, there was no abnormal pad or rotor wear, so seemingly just occurred out of nowhere.
Food for thought, or at least something to check out and verify. It doesn't take very long to grease those slider pins. I spent 15 minutes per side on my new calipers greasing them for all they were worth as the re-manufactured ones I got also had NO grease on the pins whatsoever.
You can check lug nut torque, but most shops are very cautious with details such as those due to liability. Never hurts to check, but no way is a mechanic sitting on a lug nut with a 700 + ft lb gun for more then a second to run them up. I do not take my vehicles for service anywhere due to personal experience and I value my own time/ability at less then $100 an hour so it's easier to do it right, by my own hands on all accounts. However, most halfass mechanics will run lug nuts up without starting them properly, cross threading them or breaking studs.
My .02 an personal experience.
I experienced very minor brake pedal pulsation, no pulling, I just noticed the car took a bit more effort then I felt acceptable when under 10 mph to come to a complete stop. It always seemed to have extra rolling energy, this all became obvious once I discovered the pads/rotors. This had happened so recent, there was no abnormal pad or rotor wear, so seemingly just occurred out of nowhere.
Food for thought, or at least something to check out and verify. It doesn't take very long to grease those slider pins. I spent 15 minutes per side on my new calipers greasing them for all they were worth as the re-manufactured ones I got also had NO grease on the pins whatsoever.
You can check lug nut torque, but most shops are very cautious with details such as those due to liability. Never hurts to check, but no way is a mechanic sitting on a lug nut with a 700 + ft lb gun for more then a second to run them up. I do not take my vehicles for service anywhere due to personal experience and I value my own time/ability at less then $100 an hour so it's easier to do it right, by my own hands on all accounts. However, most halfass mechanics will run lug nuts up without starting them properly, cross threading them or breaking studs.
My .02 an personal experience.
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09-27-17, 09:22 AM
#8
2. applies air gun set to 200 lbs. to 1st lug
I thought for sure my front rotors were warped as the brake pedal pulse was pretty bad when slowing
down from highway speeds. Found out one lug nut on the front left wheel was on so tight that I had
to jump on my breaker bar to get it lose. Once I re-torqued all of my lug nuts, I had nice smooth braking
again.
10-28-17, 07:17 PM
#11
experiance
Check your rear calipers, my 08 with low miles just had seized brake calipers. Ironically enough, 4k miles prior to my ownership, the previous took it to Lexus for new front and rear brake pads/rotors. Receipt was in the car as well as a Carfax notation. Problem? I bought drilled rotors and ceramic pads so it looked cleaner behind my new wheels, an the rear calipers were both SEIZED. I mean I beat them both with a 5 lb mini-sledge and I'm not gentle to begin with, tried my 3 foot prybar, got one side to barely move 1/4" before I gave up.
I experienced very minor brake pedal pulsation, no pulling, I just noticed the car took a bit more effort then I felt acceptable when under 10 mph to come to a complete stop. It always seemed to have extra rolling energy, this all became obvious once I discovered the pads/rotors. This had happened so recent, there was no abnormal pad or rotor wear, so seemingly just occurred out of nowhere.
Food for thought, or at least something to check out and verify. It doesn't take very long to grease those slider pins. I spent 15 minutes per side on my new calipers greasing them for all they were worth as the re-manufactured ones I got also had NO grease on the pins whatsoever.
You can check lug nut torque, but most shops are very cautious with details such as those due to liability. Never hurts to check, but no way is a mechanic sitting on a lug nut with a 700 + ft lb gun for more then a second to run them up. I do not take my vehicles for service anywhere due to personal experience and I value my own time/ability at less then $100 an hour so it's easier to do it right, by my own hands on all accounts. However, most halfass mechanics will run lug nuts up without starting them properly, cross threading them or breaking studs.
My .02 an personal experience.
I experienced very minor brake pedal pulsation, no pulling, I just noticed the car took a bit more effort then I felt acceptable when under 10 mph to come to a complete stop. It always seemed to have extra rolling energy, this all became obvious once I discovered the pads/rotors. This had happened so recent, there was no abnormal pad or rotor wear, so seemingly just occurred out of nowhere.
Food for thought, or at least something to check out and verify. It doesn't take very long to grease those slider pins. I spent 15 minutes per side on my new calipers greasing them for all they were worth as the re-manufactured ones I got also had NO grease on the pins whatsoever.
You can check lug nut torque, but most shops are very cautious with details such as those due to liability. Never hurts to check, but no way is a mechanic sitting on a lug nut with a 700 + ft lb gun for more then a second to run them up. I do not take my vehicles for service anywhere due to personal experience and I value my own time/ability at less then $100 an hour so it's easier to do it right, by my own hands on all accounts. However, most halfass mechanics will run lug nuts up without starting them properly, cross threading them or breaking studs.
My .02 an personal experience.
I agree also the piston won't retract as an issue also, it sounds like a helicopter following you down the road. stop slowly or drift to a stop like suggested above and check temp on rear rotor. I have one of those infrared temperature measurement devices and it will show hot on the one not retracting.
Never had an issue with the front calipers, pads, rotors. ( The front rotors are large enough for a truck !) Those are good front calipers.
Love that car, melted dash and all
10-29-17, 11:46 AM
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yes that is experience talking there.^ That is exactly what I have experienced with the rear calipers. I have an 06 and have replaced calipers twice on each side. Last time using NAPA brake calipers. They seem to collect water on that slider pin and seize. I have tried both anti-seize and lithium grease. You will get a vibration when applying the brakes like a warped rotor when that caliper won't slide or rotate back and slide off. I only have 65K miles now. Last time I replaced a caliper ( March) I put on new stainless braid hose, Looks cool.
I agree also the piston won't retract as an issue also, it sounds like a helicopter following you down the road. stop slowly or drift to a stop like suggested above and check temp on rear rotor. I have one of those infrared temperature measurement devices and it will show hot on the one not retracting.
Never had an issue with the front calipers, pads, rotors. ( The front rotors are large enough for a truck !) Those are good front calipers.
Love that car, melted dash and all
I agree also the piston won't retract as an issue also, it sounds like a helicopter following you down the road. stop slowly or drift to a stop like suggested above and check temp on rear rotor. I have one of those infrared temperature measurement devices and it will show hot on the one not retracting.
Never had an issue with the front calipers, pads, rotors. ( The front rotors are large enough for a truck !) Those are good front calipers.
Love that car, melted dash and all
Status so far;
Took it back two more times to the original mechanic who done the work. The second time he took the rotors to the place he bought them from. The told him they had been overheated so they skim the discs. Gives me another bill telling me it's my fault.
I take the car and drive like my Granny for 500km but the problem returns. The mechanic told me where he bought the rotors, which turns out to be a brake specialist shop, so I decided to take the car there and chatted to the owner. He was very helpful and remembered the overheated rotors so he took the car for a test drive and has offered to take a look at it. I'll be dropping it off first thing tomorrow morning. I will update
Thanks to all
10-31-17, 01:24 AM
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The guy from the brake shops tells me the back brake was slightly out and that he's fixed that, but he didn't sound convinced that would solve the problem. I'll see over the next day or two. I shall feedback when I know more... Nightmare continues...
10-31-17, 06:46 AM
#15
I've never had brake pulsing with new pads or rotors. I've only had pulsing with used/worn rotors. At the end, I would just replace the rotors. Do it yourself, and let it be a $x.xx lesson. I'm thinking maybe the rotors they used are the cheap kind, and thus premature warping. You get what you pay for. FYI, I do all own brake work.