rear lower control arms, I have questions
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
rear lower control arms, I have questions
I have my rear cradle out and was going to strip so i can sandblast and recoat.
The rear lower control arm camber adjusting bolts are frozen in place, same story with the adjusting bolts for the trailing arms.
I'm debating cutting out the bolts and possibly replacing the arms.
Is the rear lower control arm expensive?
Is this a part that typically fails? Same for the trailing arms.
I think I might be able to salvage the arms if I drill out the bolts. I may be able to do this without damaging the arms but it'll be a lot of work. Depending on price, and if these are items that are failure prone I may or may not tackle this.
I'm also thinking if the arms are a piece that'll need changing in a few years, I'll be well served to replace the bolts now while I can get at them easily. If I do a good replacement job, lube with anti seize, they should come out easily later when i need to change the arms.
if you've done this job yourself please chime in.
The rear lower control arm camber adjusting bolts are frozen in place, same story with the adjusting bolts for the trailing arms.
I'm debating cutting out the bolts and possibly replacing the arms.
Is the rear lower control arm expensive?
Is this a part that typically fails? Same for the trailing arms.
I think I might be able to salvage the arms if I drill out the bolts. I may be able to do this without damaging the arms but it'll be a lot of work. Depending on price, and if these are items that are failure prone I may or may not tackle this.
I'm also thinking if the arms are a piece that'll need changing in a few years, I'll be well served to replace the bolts now while I can get at them easily. If I do a good replacement job, lube with anti seize, they should come out easily later when i need to change the arms.
if you've done this job yourself please chime in.
#2
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Somebody else posted recently with this same problem, it can't be very far back in the archives, probably within a couple of pages. I can't remember what they said they did, seems like they were going to cut the bushings with a ziz wheel or other narrow blade and figure on putting new bushings in both. But, see if you can find the thread, like I said it wasn't more than 4 or 5 months ago.
#3
Rear lower control arms run on an average of 250 US , but if you search hard you may get them for a bit less. Toe control arms are more available and not so expensive. Cut your bolts and re-bush arms if using them over. Prothane bushing kits if you want. Not sure what your requirements are for Canada but after market arms will give you much more adjustments for fine tuning alignment. Supra cam bolts for rear will work for replacement.
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I wouldn't say the LCA is a high failure item. The only time I've seen them get replaced usually involves smacking a curb while drifting. Bushing replacement is more common. You can get a complete rear end bushing kit from Prothane for about $110.
New arms from the dealer are around 250 each and they aren't interchangeable with the supra tt.
Personally, I would cut the bolts and install prothane bushings instead of drilling out your existing bushing. The LCA is an easy bushing to press out since there isn't a directional metal casing that needs to be pressed out like the rear UCA.
New arms from the dealer are around 250 each and they aren't interchangeable with the supra tt.
Personally, I would cut the bolts and install prothane bushings instead of drilling out your existing bushing. The LCA is an easy bushing to press out since there isn't a directional metal casing that needs to be pressed out like the rear UCA.
#5
It is astonishing how everyone just skipped along pass the question that was asked..."HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM NUT/BOLT CLOSEST TO THE BODY ON 2ND GEN GS300/IS300????"
#6
Pit Crew
iTrader: (2)
I had on stuck, here’s what I did to remove it spray with on blaster, out but back on , smack with baby sledge hammer for a hour or two, get kissed off spray it again with on blaster and wd40. Give up for the night and drink a beer. Wake up the next day and go ahhhh, drink beer out the nut back on , hook up air compressor and use air hammer . Boom bolt out and non cut up subframe. When using the air hammer get a bit that fits into the width of the bolt with nut halfway tightened down. This will allow the air hammer to stay penetrating the bolt and not jump all over the dam place!
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