Returd

I find the stock double flare nut connection to the fuel filter to be less than ideal. In my case the fittings were rust welded and I had to cut the lines. Changing a fuel filter shouldn't be such an ordeal.

While I'm running lines I'm free to change things. The fuel filter on my Mustang is simple push connections held in place with basic clips. Is there a toyota/lexus filter arrangement from another model that is less prone to rusting/seizing than this steel flare nut arrangement?

Before you suggest i swap to the Ford arrangement, that's on hoses, not hard lines.

I'm also considering converting to AN and using a universal AN connection type fule filter. Does anyone know the fuel pressure?

dadswrld

How are the brake lines coming along? Have you come up with a conclusion for the fuel filter connection?

Returd

I just did a test fit with the rear cradle and will spend the evening pondering how to mount, or if I want to go back to Lexus fuel filter. Photos to follow.

Returd

I’ll be making the vent connection at the O2 sensor. This is a low pressure line so I cut the old line where the plastic coating ends. I’ll connect with a hose.

Returd

I also had to make some of my own brackets as the uncoated 3/16 and 5/16 lines are smaller diameter than the plastic coated 6 and 8 mm original lines. Also pretty much all of the plastic hangers and brackets either broke or were distorted.

I used some old stainless sheet metal for the brackets and contoured with some 3/16 and 5/16 rod. I made dies by welding two pieces of key stock together, drilling and then grinding the welds off.

Returd

Here’s the bracket process, handy having a press.

Returd

Here’s my filter location with the rear cradle temporarily in place. that’s an Aeromotive piece with replaceable filter element . For reference I placed the aeromtive beside the Lexus filter. I’m debating mounting the Aromotiv filter diagonally. Gonna think on it over a few beers and a movie.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

Nice work! Using the flaring tool and a press to make the brackets is really clever. I would have never thought of that.

Returd

That's not a flaring tool, it's a set of dies I made. I welded the two pieces of keystock together, drilled, and then split the welds.

I had to oversize the holes to account for the thickness of the bracket material.

Returd

Some progress photos. I’m including the process I used to make my bracket dies. I re-used the previous die set, and simply flipped them over.

First weld together, determine hole spcing, drill out and then grind out welds and split.

I also found that the soft copper/nickel tube goes out of round when bent/cut conventionally.

I left extra tube when initially making my bends. I needed to cut to final length and used my Drexel to make the cu so as not to deform the tube and be able to get the flare nut on at the cut site. To make the end square I used an old nut reversed as a guide for the Drexel cut off wheel

Returd

Some more progress

I was unable to find stainless flare nuts so I had some machined up by a local backyard machinist I trade favours with. I also picked up stainless bolts/nuts/washers. I use liberal amounts of never seize when running a stainless bot through a steel fixed mount or stainless nut on steel stud. The dissimilar metals will have galvanic corrosion but I’m hoping the never sieze will eliminate that. I’ve broke a number of bolts and studs already on what is a pretty rust free car. I’m betting on stainless hardware to get around that.

I cut the old trays/covers and used only the mounting areas as my tube didn’t fit perfectly under the covers.

I also went nuts with zip ties to hold the tube into the old plastic clips etc. The slight tube diameter variation and the old clips made for a fit on the loose side.

Returd

I rerouted the pressure line to be able to mount the Aeromotive filter diagonally.

Once I pressure test I’m going to encapsulate the AN6 fittings in plasti dip as the fittings are aluminum.

Overall I’m satisfied with the job but it’s not as pretty as factory lines. The flip side is that they should never corrode or need replacement

dadswrld

Wow! Fantastic work sir. New lines and rerouting looks 100x better than rusted ones, so it doesn't matter if it looks like factory, it only matter that it works. I may need to hire your services sir!