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Did my front brake pads this weekend and attempted to install the USRS Bushings, I dont see how this is possible however without:
A: Removing the bottom strut bolt
and / or
B: Having a lift in order to get a pry bar up underneath the control arm to force it down below that subframe in the pic below.
Has anyone had any success with a DIY without a lift? I was using ramps but tried jacking it and using jack stands as well.
I did mine by jacking up the front and placing two jack stands on the frame. Took the front wheels off to get better leverage. After taking off the all the bolts the lower arm can be easily pried down with a bar or a wrench. No need to remove the strut bolt.
I did mine by jacking up the front and placing two jack stands on the frame. Took the front wheels off to get better leverage. After taking off the all the bolts the lower arm can be easily pried down with a bar or a wrench. No need to remove the strut bolt.
Thanks! First thing I read on the instructions was like "the front wheels do not need to come off" - after haggling for an hour I put it all back together and said to hell with it. Will give this a try next time around.
Also the instruction is for RC, ISF, 2IS and 3IS. They are exactly the same part. Only difference in the installation is the x brace that needs to be removed. Some model has it and some don't, 3IS does.
Wheels don't need to be removed but if you are using jack stand, it is much easier to access the LCA.
what is the benefits of this mod? does it stiffen the steering response for our normal mode driving? isnt that the same as sport mode?
Improves response, reduces dynamic toe changes under load. In short, better performance but increased vibration and noise. Unless you have a dedicated track car, no real need for it. Car handles nicely from the factory.
Improves response, reduces dynamic toe changes under load. In short, better performance but increased vibration and noise. Unless you have a dedicated track car, no real need for it. Car handles nicely from the factory.
Or if you want the front tires to lasts you more than 25k.
I talked to 3 random (Yes random IS250/IS350 F sports) owners and they had no idea that they had inner front tire wear due to dynamic toe. I showed them the inner wear on their vehicle and all were showing metal tread, but the outside look perfectly new. And all of them have less than 30k miles. I'm actually surprise that dealer hasn't got sued for neglecting to mention the wear on the tire during the check up...
I did the install last weekend with no lift and one side at a time. It is definitely doable without a lift just a bit harder and painful maneuvering around in the tight quarters of between the floor and bottom of the car.
I have video footage of it that I will try to edit soon and share with all to see the process.
Here's the video of the install I did last weekend that I promised
Hope you guys enjoy and helpful to somebody. Recording while installing makes the process 2x longer to finish.
Here's the video of the install I did last weekend that I promised
Hope you guys enjoy and helpful to somebody. Recording while installing makes the process 2x longer to finish. https://youtu.be/gaP3w4adGPU
Hey thanks for this vid! Your under carriage looks WAY different than mine but maybe this is because its passengers side view and I was on the drivers side when I attempted. Anyways will try it again sometime this weekend and see if I cant get it done.
EDIT: nvmd, realized I originally posted this in 3rd gen, when I should be in 2nd gen :-D
Pretty much all passenger cars using rubber pivot points have toe that changes over the terrain, as well as during braking and acceleration. As an owner you have to pay attention and make adjustments to air pressure, toe and and sometimes camber to achieve better tire wear.
Tire pressure and Toe are the greater factors impacting wear. Being off a small amount over 20,000 miles will take the edge off the tire.
toe out wears the inside.
toe in wears the outside.
How the car is driven is a factor also.
Installed today, much easier this time around but not really sure why, seems there was way more give in the control arm this time when pulling down with the pry bar. Might be because this time i turned the wheel all the way to the opposite direction of the side i was working on like specONE did in the vid posted above. Didnt notice too big of a difference in steering just driving around my neighborhood but will see how it is on my commute into work tomorrow morning. Up next Koni adjustables w/ H&R Sports.
07-09-17, 05:10 PM
RR Racing USRS Install - anyone DIY w/o a lift?
