IS-F Steering Ecu Upgrade on a IS350 - Vibrations
#1
IS-F Steering Ecu Upgrade on a IS350 - Vibrations
Hello all,
I just installed an IS-F steering ecu on my little brother's IS350 this weekend. It came out of a crashed IS-F.
I didn't do any calibration because I've read that if you it came out of another car, you don't need to do the calibration. Calibration is only needed if you buy it brand new.
With that being said, after the install I definitely felt the steering get stiffer. But, there is a slight vibration when turning the wheel left and right when I'm sitting still.
Has anyone ever faced this issue before?
Is this because I haven't gotten it calibrated?
Any help would be great, Thank you in advance.
I just installed an IS-F steering ecu on my little brother's IS350 this weekend. It came out of a crashed IS-F.
I didn't do any calibration because I've read that if you it came out of another car, you don't need to do the calibration. Calibration is only needed if you buy it brand new.
With that being said, after the install I definitely felt the steering get stiffer. But, there is a slight vibration when turning the wheel left and right when I'm sitting still.
Has anyone ever faced this issue before?
Is this because I haven't gotten it calibrated?
Any help would be great, Thank you in advance.
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xapexi (04-16-17)
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (13)
I just installed mine last week. Didn't need calibration at all was a used 08-10 ISF ECU. No issues even turned the wheels a lot parked. I could definitely feel it was a lot stiffer. It will feel lighter after a few days of driving. At least that's the way I feel it now.
If you still have the stock ECU. Swap it out and check if the vibration is there.
If you still have the stock ECU. Swap it out and check if the vibration is there.
The following users liked this post:
xapexi (04-16-17)
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xapexi (04-16-17)
#5
If you still have the stock ECU. Swap it out and check if the vibration is there.
Anyway thank you everyone for chiming in. My little brother said the vibration went away and I test drove it myself too. No more vibration/pulsing and the steering is how it should've felt. Much more confidence when throwing it around!
Have a good weekend!
#6
Driver School Candidate
Any DIY's for this? Also whats needed to calibrate? Id be interested in maybe soing this on my 2010 is220d F Sport. Got the little oem steering damper weight here also.. Meant to put it in my last 2is but never got round to it so may throw it in the F Sport perhaps along with isF steering ecu.
#7
Any DIY's for this? Also whats needed to calibrate? Id be interested in maybe soing this on my 2010 is220d F Sport. Got the little oem steering damper weight here also.. Meant to put it in my last 2is but never got round to it so may throw it in the F Sport perhaps along with isF steering ecu.
Take the battery out
Pull the bottom of the battery tray up. (It's like a lid)
You'll see the steering ECU once you pulled the lid up.
Disconnect the plugs and unscrew the ECU.
You'll need to swap the metal bracket over that holds the ECU down, from the regular 2is ecu to the ISF ecu.
Then put the ecu back in, replug the plugs and screw it down.
Put the battery tray lid back on top, Put the battery back on. Connect the Battery terminals again.
Depending on how fast you do this, you may need to reprogram the windows. There's a proceedure you need to do with all your windows,
If you bought it brand new, you need the Toyota TechStream Tool to calibrate the ECU. Some people are saying if you pulled it off an ISF, you dont need to calibrate it,but some say you do.
If you have access to the TechStream tool, I personally don't know which section you would need to go to calibrate the ecu. I looked around on the tech stream but wasn't able to find the section.
One of my previous replies to someone's comment:
After 2-3 days the vibration went away. It didn't feel like a mechanical vibration but an electronic one. Similar feel to the vibration/force feed back from a Steering wheel setup for computer/console games.
Quoted from another user who did the swap:
"Just an FYI for those you considering purchasing these, you don't usually need to have them recalibrated if they've already been calibrated in the past (which the OP said he bought his brand new and had it calibrated). Only brand new ones absolutely need it, unless you prefer just to drive with no power steering. Of course, it's best to just have it calibrated to your specific car, but if you don't do so, it'll work fine nonetheless (I had mine redone when I bought mine, didn't notice a difference at all).
I'm assuming since he bought it new recently, it'll most likely be the newest 42 unit (especially at the price he paid), but I wouldn't rule out a 41 unit, doubt it's a 40 unit. OP will want to confirm the part number that's on the ECU for those who are asking for it (and needs to post a asking price due to the forum rule for this section, unless I'm blind and missed it)"
Last edited by xapexi; 04-18-17 at 04:31 PM.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Ok cool.. Whats the full part number? Also part number for a stock is250 steering ecu if anyone knows. Need to check its the same part for UK RHD cars.
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DmcL325i (04-23-17)
#12
Driver School Candidate
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DmcL325i (04-30-17)
#14
Racer
iTrader: (2)
Unhook the battery
Take the battery out
Pull the bottom of the battery tray up. (It's like a lid)
You'll see the steering ECU once you pulled the lid up.
Disconnect the plugs and unscrew the ECU.
You'll need to swap the metal bracket over that holds the ECU down, from the regular 2is ecu to the ISF ecu.
Then put the ecu back in, replug the plugs and screw it down.
Put the battery tray lid back on top, Put the battery back on. Connect the Battery terminals again.
Depending on how fast you do this, you may need to reprogram the windows. There's a proceedure you need to do with all your windows,
If you bought it brand new, you need the Toyota TechStream Tool to calibrate the ECU. Some people are saying if you pulled it off an ISF, you dont need to calibrate it,but some say you do.
If you have access to the TechStream tool, I personally don't know which section you would need to go to calibrate the ecu. I looked around on the tech stream but wasn't able to find the section.
One of my previous replies to someone's comment:
After 2-3 days the vibration went away. It didn't feel like a mechanical vibration but an electronic one. Similar feel to the vibration/force feed back from a Steering wheel setup for computer/console games.
Quoted from another user who did the swap:
"Just an FYI for those you considering purchasing these, you don't usually need to have them recalibrated if they've already been calibrated in the past (which the OP said he bought his brand new and had it calibrated). Only brand new ones absolutely need it, unless you prefer just to drive with no power steering. Of course, it's best to just have it calibrated to your specific car, but if you don't do so, it'll work fine nonetheless (I had mine redone when I bought mine, didn't notice a difference at all).
I'm assuming since he bought it new recently, it'll most likely be the newest 42 unit (especially at the price he paid), but I wouldn't rule out a 41 unit, doubt it's a 40 unit. OP will want to confirm the part number that's on the ECU for those who are asking for it (and needs to post a asking price due to the forum rule for this section, unless I'm blind and missed it)"
Take the battery out
Pull the bottom of the battery tray up. (It's like a lid)
You'll see the steering ECU once you pulled the lid up.
Disconnect the plugs and unscrew the ECU.
You'll need to swap the metal bracket over that holds the ECU down, from the regular 2is ecu to the ISF ecu.
Then put the ecu back in, replug the plugs and screw it down.
Put the battery tray lid back on top, Put the battery back on. Connect the Battery terminals again.
Depending on how fast you do this, you may need to reprogram the windows. There's a proceedure you need to do with all your windows,
If you bought it brand new, you need the Toyota TechStream Tool to calibrate the ECU. Some people are saying if you pulled it off an ISF, you dont need to calibrate it,but some say you do.
If you have access to the TechStream tool, I personally don't know which section you would need to go to calibrate the ecu. I looked around on the tech stream but wasn't able to find the section.
One of my previous replies to someone's comment:
After 2-3 days the vibration went away. It didn't feel like a mechanical vibration but an electronic one. Similar feel to the vibration/force feed back from a Steering wheel setup for computer/console games.
Quoted from another user who did the swap:
"Just an FYI for those you considering purchasing these, you don't usually need to have them recalibrated if they've already been calibrated in the past (which the OP said he bought his brand new and had it calibrated). Only brand new ones absolutely need it, unless you prefer just to drive with no power steering. Of course, it's best to just have it calibrated to your specific car, but if you don't do so, it'll work fine nonetheless (I had mine redone when I bought mine, didn't notice a difference at all).
I'm assuming since he bought it new recently, it'll most likely be the newest 42 unit (especially at the price he paid), but I wouldn't rule out a 41 unit, doubt it's a 40 unit. OP will want to confirm the part number that's on the ECU for those who are asking for it (and needs to post a asking price due to the forum rule for this section, unless I'm blind and missed it)"
I ended up having my 41 unit recalibrated a month after install just to see if there was any difference since mine came off a wrecked 12 F. Think I only paid $100-120 at a Toyota dealer. No difference. It's more of a 50/50 kind of thing, do it if you want peace of mind, don't do it if it ain't broke, don't fix it mindset. It really doesn't matter.
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MrHarris (07-17-22)
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