jpw

It's time to replace my front struts, but I have a few questions if anyone who's done them before can help plz.

I just want to replace them - not put Supra parts or coilovers, etc. I'm going with KYB.

I've done a decent bit of maintenance on my SC and other cars, but I've never had the pleasure of replacing shocks. I have very little knowledge of the parts, i.e. upper/lower control arm, stabilizer bar, etc but I'm researching that now.

I saw on some posts that a tie rod puller really helps the job - what size should I get or are there more than one size ?

Any writeups ? I've been looking for posts but can't seem to find any - if not I'll do a how-to. (not just saying that - I've done a few here such as adding to the window regulator and my last one for the dreaded door handle actuator problem)

While I'm down there gettin' dirty, can someone suggest which bushings I need to replace so I can purchase them before I start ?

I'm having an old knee replacement replaced in a couple of weeks so I want to buy the parts so they're there when I can get back in the groove.

thanks!

jpw

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

moved to suspension section.
replacing the front is not the easiest one to tackle if you have never done it before.
Not only do you have to do the typical shock/coil removal and installation bit, you also have to do certain things to be able to physically remove the shock from the car once its loose.
on the SC front this involves pulling the front upper control arm main bolt/pin out and essentially freeing the upper control arm. you have to remove the fender plasitcs on both drivers side and the washer fluid reservoir, cause that is the direction the bolt/pin slides out, and its very very long.

the rest is pretty much straight forward but I would suggest starting with a sc300 or supra factory manual it will show all that stuff and also the torque specs for putting it back on, its over 110 something foot pounds cant remember, but its tricky if you have never done it as you have to mess with re installing the upper and doing the final torque when the car is back down on the ground, as in you tighten it enough to be safe to put it back on teh ground, but not so much that the bushings can't turn, and then after its on the ground settle the suspension some give it a nice few shakes and then do the final 212 ft lb torque. do not over torque or under torque. If you tuque the uppers with the car in the air, they will be locked in there and later when it goes to settle it will max out these bushings possibly resulting in failure worst case scenario or best case scenario the bushings end up turning enough before giving out. just follow the procedure though its in there for a reason.

Also to note there are different ways to do it, since you mentioned tie rod puller, the way I stated does not use one of those since you disconect the upper at the car and swing everything down.
I think there is another way to do it that could be arguably easier but I don;t remember what it was. I think you had to unbolt where the shock meets the control arm or something and I prefer not to mess with those bolts they are generally old and stuck. If you come across it post it up.

the rears are more straight forward.
If you are having knee surgery this might just be one I would recommend skipping or get yourself a nice stool you will be in that position for a while, but it can be done in an afternoon.
you can reuse the factory springs or its a good time to put lowering springs on if you want to change the height of the car. depending on how many miles its a good idea to do the shock upper mount hats now sometimes they wear out and can make noises when they are old etc... coilovers generally replace all these parts with 1 new unit that goes in so when doing shocks the good ol fashioned way dont forget about your top mounts. the new shock will have a new bushing at the bottom so no need to worry about that.

edit* From a 95 supra manual, if you find a difference from this and your sc300/400, you are probably wrong, read it again.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

rear ones

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

now that I think about it maybe they are disconnecting the upper at the hub instead of at the chassis side? maybe thats why a tie rod puller makes it easier... I am sure one of the other members will offer some more info sooner or later but that above is literally by the book and the way I did it.

jpw

thanks so much Ali - I appreciate the info you shared. I've got my brother's spring compressor and will do this a few weeks after my operation next week...

10thMtnLex

iTrader: (1)

Just an FYI, Tokico Blue Shock/Struts are again available, see CL vendor B2Designs, or search tokico in the vendor marketplace

Edit: Spoke w/ Charles at B2Design today, rears in stock, fronts - end of month...

Equalizir

Ali will this information apply to a '99 Sc300? Im going to be switching to coil overs in the near future.

canman44

Ok. So I pretty much had the same directions as you posted, but I could NOT unbolt the sway bar links. The bolts just spins for me. Any suggestions? Anyone else run into this issue and found a work around? I'll have to try the removal again, but this is my daily driver and I don't want to start tearing it apart again and get stuck like the last time, so I'd like to go into my next trial with some options.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you have to use like a large allen key to hold the center part still, and use a closed wrench around the nut at the same time. If you just turn it without the allen key holding it still then it will just turn forever.

also sometimes even when doing that they can just be locked up from age, and its often easier to grind the nut off at that point freeing the endlink for removal and just installing new ones when putting it back together.
my drivers side came off but my passenger side had to be ground off and replaced.
Alot of people will say that if its the first time doing it on a stock like car then they just get 2 new sway bar end links anyways and plan to cut them off, because often one will be locked and then you have to wait to get the part etc.. etc.. its just one of those things that are known to be hard to remove even when they don't lock up.

Tempock

Hey Ali, do you know how to remove the struts? I'm struggling to take them out since there's not enough clearance for the rears.

wsaharem

Tempock, did you have any success? I'm thinking about doing my own strut replacements, but the comments in the thread are motivating me to go take it in to a mechanic.

xCWolf

Ya know, I've seen a ton of people posting about taking out the bolt fo rthe upper control arm on the drivers side and moving the reservoir, but all I did was drop the bolt on the lower control arms and it swung out enough to give me the room to slide the shock up through while holding the spring, worked fantastic.