Stretchp2

Absolutely amazing sir, cant wait to get started.

grm405

I thank you all for the kind words.

A year later and the brakes work just like when I installed them. I did paint them (red) shortly after installation with G2 paint (high recommended), both front and rear, and they still look perfect. That paint has amazing leveling properties even with the tiny chip brush they include and they look like they are powder coated.

Gerry

Gee44

I am about to do the LS400 upgrade brake install as well and want to be sure I have all the right parts before I take it to the shop.

1. LS400 calipers w/Caliper Guide Pin and LS400 bolts - (2) of each for both sides?
2. LS400 Rotors (Front)
3. LS400 brake pads
4. (Optional) New Brake lines - I'm getting these
5. (Optional) Decals - what size to get / link? - I'm getting these
6. (Optional) Paint Calipers - Powered Coat / Paint / Sanding ?

I am missing anything?

Thanks for the help

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Here is my install....been solid for about 6 months....still look new.....huge improvement over stock front brakes....







With matching rear....soon to be TT rear

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks right, you only need 1 ls400 bolt for each side, so 2 ls400 bolts total.
basically there are 2 bolts on each caliper, you can reuse one SC bolt for each caliper, and then you should use 1 ls400 bolt for each caliper or you will have to shorten the SC bolts or use washers.
also consider cross drilled and slotted rotors ls400 for the front and if you are on stock brakes remember to order the same kind for the rear but for sc300/400 (or supra rotors if you have rear supra brakes).

Gee44

Ok...

I am getting the R1Concepts Eline Series Slotted LS400 Rotors for the front and same Slotted for the rear (SC300). Hopefully, I can get the TT for the rear later.

Thanks for your help!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

No problem, that setup will work well thats what I have ls400 front and stock sc300 rear with drilled and slotted rotors and regular old brake pads. stops fantastic I don't have to worry about it anymore. Before if I made 1 high speed stop, the second one within a few minutes the car would struggle to come to stop even close to the same. with the LS400 ones I have yet to experience fade, they can clamp down more than the tires can support for several stops.

The TT supra rear is not necessary but is a nice upgrade to do down the line, I don't think I am going to do it even cause alot of people like the n/a brakes on the rear cause its easier to use standard drag wheels that won't fit over tt rear brakes.

For the emblems I ordered them online somewhere a long time ago, I would check ebay or other sites I am sure you can find lexus logos.
take a good look at the front of the LS400 calipers and others for examples, they do not fit the large emblems as well as the supra brakes cause there is a line going down the middle of the caliper.
You can still fit alot of different styles on there though I think I have the thin LEXUS going across the middle.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Those are the rotors I have above in my pics......

bilgen

iTrader: (3)

I just did LS brakes on my 99 SC400, they look great!
But, I have one question.. To the dudes who have done this install, did you bleed the rear brakes as well? I have questionable pedal feel, but I did NOT bleed the rear. Just the front.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

To properly bleed the breaking system you need to start with the caliper furthest away from master cylinder....i.e...

Here is the correct order.....Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front and Driver Front....

You need to bleed all four brakes so there is no air in the line....its a good idea to bleed them and top it off with new fluid anyways

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the only way you can get away without bleeding the rear is to be super quick when disconnecting the line off the old caliper and onto the new caliper while the fluid is coming out. that is what I did and I just bled the front. the pedal feel is not perfect but better than before and grabs really hard. If it feels funny then you have to do a full bleed and Catmand3w is right about the order. I think there is also bleeding the abs unit but not sure if thats needed unless you get a bunch of air in the system.
It could also be that your rear brakes pads are worn in the rear compared to the new pads on the front. I would give them a check.

bilgen

iTrader: (3)

Alright I'm gonna do everything you guys suggested this weekend and see if that helps which I'm sure it will. Thanks for the responses

grm405

"the only way you can get away without bleeding the rear is to be super quick when disconnecting the line off the old caliper"

Or clamp off the brake line before removal, like I did, using 2 small blocks of wood and vice grips. Only got a few drops of fluid out. I didn't have to bleed the rears.

Gerry

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

^^ that is a pretty smart idea, probably what a real mechanic would do. just make sure not to damage the rubber hose, I personally just like to be quick about swapping the line over, it was like 4-5 seconds total with a helper (aka upside down bucket holding the other caliper). as long as the reservoir doesn't go dry letting out fluid generally won't let air into the system.

2jLee

Definitely referring to this thread when I'm ready to upgrade. Great write up! Like others have mentioned, Its nice to get some measurements