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So I've spent the last couple of days installing various Megan suspension arms including the fronts. Since I'm just lucky I ran into an issue that no-one else will need to repeat.
So I used the ball joint puller like jgr7.
One thing to keep in mind, it doesn't take much with the puller to pop the ball joint out of the upright. After only a couple of turns with the wrench on the puller, BAM it popped out, the upright came at me and tried to impale me! I jumped out of the way without injury, but then I started looking around:
Hmm, I don't think this is supposed to look like that. This is the wire that goes to the connector in the center of the hub. Some kind of wheel speed/ABS sensor I'm sure.
So after an hour of trying to figure out the goofy connector, a little solder, some heat shrink tubing and viola, (almost) as good as new. This is just the inner connector, there is a "sheath" that goes over this that further protects my repair.
No VSC or other lights on the dash so I guess my fix worked.
So, don't be like WylieKylie when you install your upper control arms! You'll get finished a-lot faster!
^Nice tires! I should be installing mine this summer!
For others than are looking for a quicker way to remove the knuckle from the UCA, just grab a 5lb sledge and tell that thing whose boss! Even my 7 yr old 2IS gave up the ball joint after two swings!
I'm looking forward to the tires, I just had them installed 2 days ago. I wanted something stickier, but I couldn't get the sizes I wanted, and I think these will suit the character of the car better than an autocross class tire anyway.
The only reason I didn't use the 5lb sledge method is I didn't want to mess the threads up. I plan on saving all the parts and putting them back on if/when I sell the car.
I'm looking forward to the tires, I just had them installed 2 days ago. I wanted something stickier, but I couldn't get the sizes I wanted, and I think these will suit the character of the car better than an autocross class tire anyway.
The only reason I didn't use the 5lb sledge method is I didn't want to mess the threads up. I plan on saving all the parts and putting them back on if/when I sell the car.
Same here I plan on keeping every thing to put back if needed. I love my PSS tires, I had a guy in an IS350 trying to keep up with me going around a corner at a pretty fast pace and I just powered around the corner with out a spin or slip and I watched him get loose and have the computer take him out of the game. You will love them. Did you get Fsport sways too?
I wouldn't fully remove the nut off of the ball joint; that nut will protect the threads while hammering. Just loosen enough to give the ball joint some "play"; then go to town on it.
No sway bars yet. I haven't decided if the next handling mod is going to be sways or a '10+ IS F steering ECU. Either will have to wait until I get a set of dedicated summer wheels, the painted OEM wheels are going to be for the snow tires.
Originally Posted by Gville350
I wouldn't fully remove the nut off of the ball joint; that nut will protect the threads while hammering. Just loosen enough to give the ball joint some "play"; then go to town on it.
That would have been smart... no wonder I didn't do it that way!
^That of course depends on what wheel/tire combo you're running and whether you want something close to OE spec or not. Not one single straight answer for that question really.
True, I guess I was hoping to find out a range, although that depends on ride height. I am on H&R springs (1.4" drop according to specs) and I'd like to get my camber back into OE spec (X package 18" wheels). I'm currently at -1.2 left and -1.8 right. The description of these control arms I read stated that they will only adjust negative camber, whereas the arms for other vehicles specifically said that they'd adjust positive or negative. Therefore, I'm wondering if I can use these arms to bring my camber a little more toward the positive.
What does everyone recommend as the best camber solution in the front. Im looking to get about a 1-1.5 degrees of adjustment. Im leaning towards the SPC balljoint but still indecisive. Would guys guys recommend the megan UCA instead or any other option based on personal experience.
What does everyone recommend as the best camber solution in the front. Im looking to get about a 1-1.5 degrees of adjustment. Im leaning towards the SPC balljoint but still indecisive. Would guys guys recommend the megan UCA instead or any other option based on personal experience.
Well if you only need 1-1.5 degrees of adjustment then SPCs will be good enough for you. However, I would recommend the Megan UCAs since u will have more room to take it further if u have to.
do you need to take the shocks out in order to install the megan front camber arms??
Do yourself a favor and buy a good set of ratcheting wrenches. (Off the top of the head I **THINK** 14mm is necessary for the front UCA install.) They will save loads of time.
04-12-14, 05:34 PM
