Brake Fluid Replacement - OEM or Other?
01-28-03, 06:58 PM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Brake Fluid Replacement - OEM or Other?
In a couple weeks, I am bleeding my brakes.
So, should I stick with OEM and use new OEM brake fluid, or should I bump up to some kind of higher grade?
1.) Is there a better brake fluid out there? I dunno….higher temp capacity?
2.)Would the better brake fluid actually improved stopping distances since the better fluid may actually cool the brakes faster, or does it simply help cool the brakes more efficiently, not necessarily faster?
NOTE: I will be using OEM calipers and cross-drilled/slotted/cadmium plated OEM sized rotors, and TRD pads (for now).
EDIT: I have been told by a person who knows their stuff, that some owners that own and race exoctic use a "Ford Truck" brake fluid. Apparently, it it durable, very low cost, and has a very high boil point. Thoughts?
BTW, here’s some good basic info with links to more Brake info.
How Stuff Works.com - What are the different types of brake fluid?
TIA
So, should I stick with OEM and use new OEM brake fluid, or should I bump up to some kind of higher grade?
1.) Is there a better brake fluid out there? I dunno….higher temp capacity?
2.)Would the better brake fluid actually improved stopping distances since the better fluid may actually cool the brakes faster, or does it simply help cool the brakes more efficiently, not necessarily faster?
NOTE: I will be using OEM calipers and cross-drilled/slotted/cadmium plated OEM sized rotors, and TRD pads (for now).
EDIT: I have been told by a person who knows their stuff, that some owners that own and race exoctic use a "Ford Truck" brake fluid. Apparently, it it durable, very low cost, and has a very high boil point. Thoughts?
BTW, here’s some good basic info with links to more Brake info.
How Stuff Works.com - What are the different types of brake fluid?
TIA
Last edited by ///MDex; 01-28-03 at 07:06 PM.
01-28-03, 07:44 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
As I continue my research, I found this article, with some very useful info. Basically, don't always go for the ultra-ultra high temp since it can absorb moisture more quickly, and thus, is designed to be flushed more often. ie. Racers
FROM: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/BrakeFluid.htm
Actually, if you don't drive aggressively, the stock Ford High Performance brake fluid will do fine. However, if you like to drive aggressively, or like to even autocross or race your car, then the factory brake fluid will not be very suitable. When driving under the above conditions, you have to have a break fluid that has a very high boiling point, since if your brake fluid starts to boil, that can't be very good. Also, over time, moisture will enter and be absorbed into the brake fluid lowering the boiling point temperature over time. That's why it's a good idea to flush out and replace your brake fluid every year or so to keep the moisture out. Also, some brake fluids tend to absorb moisture much more rapidly than others. The Ford Dot 4 high performance brake fluid tends to be very hydroscopic and will absorb moisture very quickly lowering it's boiling temperature rapidly. That's why it's important to buy a brake fluid that comes in a metal can instead of plastic, since moisture will make it's way into the brake fluid if it's in a plastic bottle. The ATE Type 300, or Super Blue Racing (same thing, just a difference in color), and the Castrol LMA (low moisture activity) are examples of 2 brake fluids that absorb moisture very slowly. For regular street city driving, a brake fluid that absorbs moisture slowly is desirable since unlike a race car that changes it's brake fluid after every race, you'll probably be keeping it in your car for a year or two. When I had my SHO, I used the ATE Super Blue Racing because it has an excellent wet and dry boiling point temperature, and because it doesn't absorb moisture very quickly, I wouldn't have to worry about it for a while. Castrol SRF is the best when it comes to brake fluid, but I can't afford something that costs $74 a liter. ATE Super Blue Racing provides almost the performance of Castrol SRF, but only costs $10 a liter.
HTH
FROM: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/BrakeFluid.htm
Actually, if you don't drive aggressively, the stock Ford High Performance brake fluid will do fine. However, if you like to drive aggressively, or like to even autocross or race your car, then the factory brake fluid will not be very suitable. When driving under the above conditions, you have to have a break fluid that has a very high boiling point, since if your brake fluid starts to boil, that can't be very good. Also, over time, moisture will enter and be absorbed into the brake fluid lowering the boiling point temperature over time. That's why it's a good idea to flush out and replace your brake fluid every year or so to keep the moisture out. Also, some brake fluids tend to absorb moisture much more rapidly than others. The Ford Dot 4 high performance brake fluid tends to be very hydroscopic and will absorb moisture very quickly lowering it's boiling temperature rapidly. That's why it's important to buy a brake fluid that comes in a metal can instead of plastic, since moisture will make it's way into the brake fluid if it's in a plastic bottle. The ATE Type 300, or Super Blue Racing (same thing, just a difference in color), and the Castrol LMA (low moisture activity) are examples of 2 brake fluids that absorb moisture very slowly. For regular street city driving, a brake fluid that absorbs moisture slowly is desirable since unlike a race car that changes it's brake fluid after every race, you'll probably be keeping it in your car for a year or two. When I had my SHO, I used the ATE Super Blue Racing because it has an excellent wet and dry boiling point temperature, and because it doesn't absorb moisture very quickly, I wouldn't have to worry about it for a while. Castrol SRF is the best when it comes to brake fluid, but I can't afford something that costs $74 a liter. ATE Super Blue Racing provides almost the performance of Castrol SRF, but only costs $10 a liter.
Last edited by ///MDex; 01-28-03 at 08:01 PM.
01-28-03, 08:20 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Cool, I'm kind of answering my own questions here. 
I think I'm going to go with ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid .
For ~$10/L, it has very high boiling points, and, low moisture absorption.
Do a Google search on it HERE and you'll see its very highly rated.
I hope I helped others!
I think I'm going to go with ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid .
For ~$10/L, it has very high boiling points, and, low moisture absorption.
Do a Google search on it HERE and you'll see its very highly rated.
I hope I helped others!
Last edited by ///MDex; 01-28-03 at 08:21 PM.
01-28-03, 08:56 PM
#4
Pole Position
You did seem to answer your own question so I'll just throw this in.
As part of the AP Racing big brake upgrade I used RBF 600 fluid by Motul. Seems to be very good stuff and a near toss-up with the Super Blue you are leaning towards.
FWIW
As part of the AP Racing big brake upgrade I used RBF 600 fluid by Motul. Seems to be very good stuff and a near toss-up with the Super Blue you are leaning towards.
FWIW
01-29-03, 05:47 AM
#6
Originally posted by Aristo V300VE
Does anyone here know any places to pick up that Motul 600 online? Also how much brake fluid do you need to flush and replace on the GS?
Does anyone here know any places to pick up that Motul 600 online? Also how much brake fluid do you need to flush and replace on the GS?
Trending Topics
01-29-03, 12:01 PM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Dex, here is my take on this.
Stick with the OEM brake fluid based on your setup.
Only move to an aftermarket brake fluid like Motul or 100% silicone if you have a 4 or 6 piston caliber setup.
SS brake lines with stock oem calibers, and stock size rotors will not see a difference with aftermarket brake fluid and you will be better off with the OEM fluid.
I have SS brake lines, TRD slotted rotors, stock calibers, and EBC brake pads. I use the oem brake fluid and it works great.
If I had a 4piston setup than I would change my brake fluid to motul.
Stick with the OEM brake fluid based on your setup.
Only move to an aftermarket brake fluid like Motul or 100% silicone if you have a 4 or 6 piston caliber setup.
SS brake lines with stock oem calibers, and stock size rotors will not see a difference with aftermarket brake fluid and you will be better off with the OEM fluid.
I have SS brake lines, TRD slotted rotors, stock calibers, and EBC brake pads. I use the oem brake fluid and it works great.
If I had a 4piston setup than I would change my brake fluid to motul.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
