JZS161 rear upper ball joints
11-27-13, 12:31 PM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Finland
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IS300 steel arms looks like they fit. I've compared the two. The steel arms are a bit heavier, probably stronger and less than 1/2 the price of the aluminum arms,
48770A 4877053010 ARM ASSEMBLY, UPPER CONTROL, REAR RIGHT. ARM ASSY, UPR CONTRO IS300 (JCE10) $210.90 4877053010
I haven't actually tried swapping them but, some IS300 guys run the GS arms. The IS arms are hollow stampings welded together.
48770A 4877053010 ARM ASSEMBLY, UPPER CONTROL, REAR RIGHT. ARM ASSY, UPR CONTRO IS300 (JCE10) $210.90 4877053010
I haven't actually tried swapping them but, some IS300 guys run the GS arms. The IS arms are hollow stampings welded together.
The Fe-best part might be ment to be fitted to those steel arms.
If Fe-best have just specified the ball joint to a wrong car model (IS)
Looks like those steel arms have removable ball joint?
11-27-13, 12:39 PM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Finland
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm new to the club, and wondering how you made out with this? I joined just for this reason, and, well, I'll probably drive Lexus cars from here out. Kinda growing out of the little Datsuns I used to drive, but will always keep my 240. Anyways, I so for bought all new bushing for the entire rear for $320. Not bad considering $2,400 at Lexus, and they dont sell just bushings. I am determined to find an upper ball joint, either from a Cressida, or try an American truck one, or something. Not paying $500 just to have a ball joint. So determined to beat the system.
So basicly i gave up with this and just go with the flow
I should have had more patience to resolve this with some other way,
by replacing just to ball joins
11-28-13, 04:21 AM
#18
The balljoints can easily be pressed out of the steel arms but, the only replacements are the same ebay specials listed here. I just ended up buying 2 new steel arms. They'll easily last another 200K miles.
12-02-13, 03:06 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: ri
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My new update: Yea, I could spend over $1,000 and get new arms for my $600 Lexus, or find an alternative. Toyota tundra so far are the best, cost is $60, but I'm sure would last a long time VS the Ford. I since bought another arm, $55, and as a test, I pounded the little divot in on the back and that tightened up the ball joint. So if this trial and error method works, then the cheapest way around this would be to pound the divot. I'm sure it will not work for wasted ball joints, just ones with normal wear. I will continue this in the future, the Toyota Tundra Taper is still of a bit and would require remachining, but I could make it work, and it would be a nice fit. There are some others, but I would have to order them in order to find out. Well, time to put it back together.
03-05-14, 06:54 PM
#20
I am missing something here, what are you using from a Tundra? The ball joints?
My new update: Yea, I could spend over $1,000 and get new arms for my $600 Lexus, or find an alternative. Toyota tundra so far are the best, cost is $60, but I'm sure would last a long time VS the Ford. I since bought another arm, $55, and as a test, I pounded the little divot in on the back and that tightened up the ball joint. So if this trial and error method works, then the cheapest way around this would be to pound the divot. I'm sure it will not work for wasted ball joints, just ones with normal wear. I will continue this in the future, the Toyota Tundra Taper is still of a bit and would require remachining, but I could make it work, and it would be a nice fit. There are some others, but I would have to order them in order to find out. Well, time to put it back together.
06-14-18, 01:07 PM
#21
Can anyone clarify if the IS arms will work on the GS? My bushings are starting to crack pretty badly and I know the GS arms are aluminum but that means they tons of money vs the steel IS arms ($1300 vs $550 for OEM). The FIGS rear upper arms say they fit both cars. I want to replace them but I can't justify spending so much to do it
06-14-18, 03:20 PM
#22
From what I see in this thread they are the same arm, with the differences in materials, but serve same functions.
I haven't needed to replace mine yet (rolling 300k next week). But my car is driven daily, so it never gets time to sit and harden up.
Might be worth a set of junkyard arms to compare them physically.
I have one spare alum arm that I picked up years ago for $50 that is in good shape, just hope IF I have a problem arm, that is the one to replace it. It doesn't look like that easy of a job.
I haven't needed to replace mine yet (rolling 300k next week). But my car is driven daily, so it never gets time to sit and harden up.
Might be worth a set of junkyard arms to compare them physically.
I have one spare alum arm that I picked up years ago for $50 that is in good shape, just hope IF I have a problem arm, that is the one to replace it. It doesn't look like that easy of a job.
Can anyone clarify if the IS arms will work on the GS? My bushings are starting to crack pretty badly and I know the GS arms are aluminum but that means they tons of money vs the steel IS arms ($1300 vs $550 for OEM). The FIGS rear upper arms say they fit both cars. I want to replace them but I can't justify spending so much to do it
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
junfei
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
2
10-01-04 08:53 PM
