Sway bar kit
10-20-13, 07:57 AM
#61
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The fitment's perfect on the front, although the bracket they provide is garbage so I ended up reusing the stock one. Not too sure if the bushings are poly or rubber as it's been a few months since I've installed it... the rear's in the garage in a box as I'm PCSing, so RamAirRckt might be able to chime in to answer.
10-20-13, 08:16 AM
#62
I prefer the stock brackets and bushing design, I don't like the aftermarket ones that are a simple strap and a bushing that extends outside the bracket. Bad design and they don't survive long, at least on my T/A with hard polyurethane bushings.
The rear, before you start, spray with PB Blaster first, get the bolts loose and it will go super easy. If not I had to drill 3 of the 4 broken bolts out and put in bolts/nuts. I live in the north, so my car has always seen a lot of salt. But soak for a few days, if not a week before you attempt it, keep spraying. PB Blaster works wonders.
I reused stock rear bushings as the EMUSA kit doesn't come with rears and I just crammed it in, tight is good. It worked for me just fine.
The front bushing that come with the kit are plain rubber, nothing special. Rear doesn't come with, so buy them ahead of time first.
The rear bar is black, front is red, pick up some paint if you want the rear to match and to cover up chips, they weren't packaged well, so the rear had some chips, the front just one.
Perfect install on front, rear is fatter and you will have some fittement issues, but nothing more than any other fat bar. Mainly have to lift a wheel to get the link kit installed. Note the rear has a allen fitting inside the link kit end to hold it fixed to take off the nut. I think 5mm, but with rust it was tough to get in there. I didn't know there was an allen fitting in there, so I had used long nose vice grips, it was a pain. You can take out the bar with end link and do it on the ground/bench. Make sure tight when done, one of mine came loose and rattled after a month or so. Hard to get tight when I couldn't seem to get a perfect fit allen wrench in there.
Summary: Front takes less time than changing spark plugs on a 1UZ-FE. Rear takes some prep time with PB Blaster and order bushings for it. And rear brackets completely encapsulate the bushing, so you need that OEM like bushing unless you get different brackets and then you can use any type bushing that matches it.
Factory bushings look like this: http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.c...sp?prod=181124
The rear, before you start, spray with PB Blaster first, get the bolts loose and it will go super easy. If not I had to drill 3 of the 4 broken bolts out and put in bolts/nuts. I live in the north, so my car has always seen a lot of salt. But soak for a few days, if not a week before you attempt it, keep spraying. PB Blaster works wonders.
I reused stock rear bushings as the EMUSA kit doesn't come with rears and I just crammed it in, tight is good. It worked for me just fine.
The front bushing that come with the kit are plain rubber, nothing special. Rear doesn't come with, so buy them ahead of time first.
The rear bar is black, front is red, pick up some paint if you want the rear to match and to cover up chips, they weren't packaged well, so the rear had some chips, the front just one.
Perfect install on front, rear is fatter and you will have some fittement issues, but nothing more than any other fat bar. Mainly have to lift a wheel to get the link kit installed. Note the rear has a allen fitting inside the link kit end to hold it fixed to take off the nut. I think 5mm, but with rust it was tough to get in there. I didn't know there was an allen fitting in there, so I had used long nose vice grips, it was a pain. You can take out the bar with end link and do it on the ground/bench. Make sure tight when done, one of mine came loose and rattled after a month or so. Hard to get tight when I couldn't seem to get a perfect fit allen wrench in there.
Summary: Front takes less time than changing spark plugs on a 1UZ-FE. Rear takes some prep time with PB Blaster and order bushings for it. And rear brackets completely encapsulate the bushing, so you need that OEM like bushing unless you get different brackets and then you can use any type bushing that matches it.
Factory bushings look like this: http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.c...sp?prod=181124
10-20-13, 01:00 PM
#65
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10-20-13, 02:10 PM
#66
11-03-13, 10:54 AM
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11-03-13, 05:17 PM
#69
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Yeah, same for the ones I received... I'm not sure if I'll just mod the ones I received or just buy replacements to fit the new sways that are proper-sized.
11-03-13, 05:19 PM
#70
11-08-13, 12:03 PM
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11-08-13, 12:09 PM
#73