Black zinc drilled slotted rotors
01-21-13, 10:46 PM
#1
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Black zinc drilled slotted rotors
whats up guys I'm looking to change the OEM rotors on my IS350 and I found a set that im interested in.
They are black zinc drilled and slotted rotors
http://www.usdirectparts.com/ebay/im...or-details.jpg
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/FRONT-REAR-KIT-Black-Hart-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Disc-Brake-Rotors-C2083-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqZ,!igFCw)tsRG3BQ9)LU7Qog~~60_12.JPG
any thoughts?
They are black zinc drilled and slotted rotors
http://www.usdirectparts.com/ebay/im...or-details.jpg
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/FRONT-REAR-KIT-Black-Hart-DRILLED-SLOTTED-Disc-Brake-Rotors-C2083-/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/$(KGrHqZ,!igFCw)tsRG3BQ9)LU7Qog~~60_12.JPG
any thoughts?
01-22-13, 10:47 AM
#2
My thought is there is never any good reason to drill holes in perfectly good car rotors.
If you don't mind giving up both mass in a device meant to be a heat sink, making the rotor more prone to cracking under stress, and eating through brake pads 25% faster than blank rotors.... all in exchange for no benefit at all in street driving other than cosmetics, then go for it.
If those things do bother you, avoid drilled rotors.
Blanks are the best option for a street car. They will stop the car exactly as short as uber fancy rotors will, while lasting longer (and giving you more life from your pads).
Slotted (no drilled holes) are the best option for a track car. (they have the same 25% shorter pad life problem, but not the prone to cracking problem, and will keep the pads from being glazed in track use)
If you don't mind giving up both mass in a device meant to be a heat sink, making the rotor more prone to cracking under stress, and eating through brake pads 25% faster than blank rotors.... all in exchange for no benefit at all in street driving other than cosmetics, then go for it.
If those things do bother you, avoid drilled rotors.
Blanks are the best option for a street car. They will stop the car exactly as short as uber fancy rotors will, while lasting longer (and giving you more life from your pads).
Slotted (no drilled holes) are the best option for a track car. (they have the same 25% shorter pad life problem, but not the prone to cracking problem, and will keep the pads from being glazed in track use)
02-16-13, 09:57 AM
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My thought is there is never any good reason to drill holes in perfectly good car rotors.
If you don't mind giving up both mass in a device meant to be a heat sink, making the rotor more prone to cracking under stress, and eating through brake pads 25% faster than blank rotors.... all in exchange for no benefit at all in street driving other than cosmetics, then go for it.
If those things do bother you, avoid drilled rotors.
Blanks are the best option for a street car. They will stop the car exactly as short as uber fancy rotors will, while lasting longer (and giving you more life from your pads).
Slotted (no drilled holes) are the best option for a track car. (they have the same 25% shorter pad life problem, but not the prone to cracking problem, and will keep the pads from being glazed in track use)
If you don't mind giving up both mass in a device meant to be a heat sink, making the rotor more prone to cracking under stress, and eating through brake pads 25% faster than blank rotors.... all in exchange for no benefit at all in street driving other than cosmetics, then go for it.
If those things do bother you, avoid drilled rotors.
Blanks are the best option for a street car. They will stop the car exactly as short as uber fancy rotors will, while lasting longer (and giving you more life from your pads).
Slotted (no drilled holes) are the best option for a track car. (they have the same 25% shorter pad life problem, but not the prone to cracking problem, and will keep the pads from being glazed in track use)
11-14-13, 01:12 AM
#6
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Looking up warranty info on the Black Hart right now
I purchased the front and rear Black Hart *DRILLED & SLOTTED* Brake pads and rotors for my is350 in May of 2013 for $250
My Lexus / Master ASE mechanic installed them in July 2013.
He went through the "bedding" process and had me complete it.
With the new brake setup I could stop on a dime and give you change.
Even in slower to moderate braking I could tell a slight improvement in overall ability.
Then in mid October of 2013 I noticed a slight vibration during braking.
A few days later I made an appointment with the same mechanic.
After about an hour of inspecting he has requested the warranty info.
He explained that cementite has formed on one of the rotors.
His inclination is a lower quality iron is used in the manufacturing that barely if actually meets OEM heat requirements.
I loved them for the 6 months or so they didn't have an issue.
Hopefully this is an anomaly.
I will know more in the coming weeks.
My Lexus / Master ASE mechanic installed them in July 2013.
He went through the "bedding" process and had me complete it.
With the new brake setup I could stop on a dime and give you change.
Even in slower to moderate braking I could tell a slight improvement in overall ability.
Then in mid October of 2013 I noticed a slight vibration during braking.
A few days later I made an appointment with the same mechanic.
After about an hour of inspecting he has requested the warranty info.
He explained that cementite has formed on one of the rotors.
His inclination is a lower quality iron is used in the manufacturing that barely if actually meets OEM heat requirements.
I loved them for the 6 months or so they didn't have an issue.
Hopefully this is an anomaly.
I will know more in the coming weeks.
11-14-13, 05:26 PM
#7
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I purchased the front and rear Black Hart *DRILLED & SLOTTED* Brake pads and rotors for my is350 in May of 2013 for $250
My Lexus / Master ASE mechanic installed them in July 2013.
He went through the "bedding" process and had me complete it.
With the new brake setup I could stop on a dime and give you change.
Even in slower to moderate braking I could tell a slight improvement in overall ability.
Then in mid October of 2013 I noticed a slight vibration during braking.
A few days later I made an appointment with the same mechanic.
After about an hour of inspecting he has requested the warranty info.
He explained that cementite has formed on one of the rotors.
His inclination is a lower quality iron is used in the manufacturing that barely if actually meets OEM heat requirements.
I loved them for the 6 months or so they didn't have an issue.
Hopefully this is an anomaly.
I will know more in the coming weeks.
My Lexus / Master ASE mechanic installed them in July 2013.
He went through the "bedding" process and had me complete it.
With the new brake setup I could stop on a dime and give you change.
Even in slower to moderate braking I could tell a slight improvement in overall ability.
Then in mid October of 2013 I noticed a slight vibration during braking.
A few days later I made an appointment with the same mechanic.
After about an hour of inspecting he has requested the warranty info.
He explained that cementite has formed on one of the rotors.
His inclination is a lower quality iron is used in the manufacturing that barely if actually meets OEM heat requirements.
I loved them for the 6 months or so they didn't have an issue.
Hopefully this is an anomaly.
I will know more in the coming weeks.
I would recommend going with brembo blank rotors and upgrade the pads. The pads make a world of difference compared to oem and if you really want to upgrade further than that then find the black graphite/carbon rotors as those will literally stop at a dime!
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11-19-13, 04:03 PM
#8
Couldn't agree more with all of Kurtz comments. I track my car so I went with a set of quality slotted rotors. 8 track days late (~10 hours or 800 miles of track time) plus 15K steet miles they are still going strong. If it were just a street car blanks are all you need. All in all I would never skimp on breaks. If they go bad then bad things will happen.
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mojeko
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