Rear Camber Adjustment.
06-07-11, 07:56 AM
#1
Rear Camber Adjustment.
Alright from what Ive read for adjusting the rear camber its one adj bolt per side. So If your looking at the passenger rear, the adj bolt to the left thats on the frame brace (where the diff mounts). For positive camber I read to loosen and turn the bolt towards the outside of the car. I did that equally on both rear tires and my camber still looks negative and my steering wheels a bit crooked now car might have a slight walk to it now too.
I'm posting because my car was already perfectly aligned from last year and due to lowering I just needed to kick the camber out a little bit. But this bolt seems to make no/little difference.
Question is do I have to also adjust the other adj bolt to the Right if your looking at passenger wheel. I didnt think I would I thought it did the caster?
I'm posting because my car was already perfectly aligned from last year and due to lowering I just needed to kick the camber out a little bit. But this bolt seems to make no/little difference.
Question is do I have to also adjust the other adj bolt to the Right if your looking at passenger wheel. I didnt think I would I thought it did the caster?
06-07-11, 08:34 AM
#2
Have a professional with the proper tools align you car. Rotating 2 different bolts doesn't mean you get the same result, especially when you have no way of measuring the effect. Oh, and you want negative camber, not positive.
06-07-11, 08:53 AM
#3
madmax98 Have a professional with the proper tools align you car. Rotating 2 different bolts doesn't mean you get the same result, especially when you have no way of measuring the effect. Oh, and you want negative camber, not positive.
Pic below shows the bolt on each side I adjusted. Looking at the pic (passenger side) I turned it clockwise so the little hole points towards the outside of car. correct?
06-08-11, 09:20 AM
#5
It is the camber adjustment bolt but you dont want to mess with that. If you did (which it sounds like you already did) it also messes up the rest of your alignment. Go take your car in and have it done right.
06-08-11, 12:39 PM
#6
BattleVer It is the camber adjustment bolt but you dont want to mess with that. If you did (which it sounds like you already did) it also messes up the rest of your alignment. Go take your car in and have it done right.
Prob just take it to my buddy at Toyota and have him align it when he puts the 315s on.
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06-12-11, 09:13 PM
#9
When you adjust the camber in the rear you also affect toe. Tweaking those camber bolts probably threw your rear toe out of spec and the car is somewhat "dogtracking" or pulling. Id never mess with these bolts unless I plan having my alignment done within the next 5 miles of driving.
07-21-11, 08:50 AM
#10
my sc is slamed and even with an alignment i cant get my camber less then 4, and with a 20 year old car the adjustment bolt often break. im currently saving for battle version traction rods and toe links on driftmotion.com, together there about 500$ for everything minus an alignment right afterwards
07-21-11, 12:46 PM
#11
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i'm not sure the traction rod will help much with your camber adjustment. At most, a toe rod may be all you need, but even then the lca's elongated hole may not give you the correction you need.
07-21-11, 03:42 PM
#14
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edit: sry, computer got screwy my post deleted itself. but anyway,
if you're right, that means we have no rear camber adjustment whatsoever in stock form..dude
If you look at the stock traction rod, it's angled in a completely different direction and both bolts holding it onto the subframe and hub are normal non-lobed bolts, meaning they are not adjustable. Yet people are somehow still able to adjust their camber?
The bulk of the camber adjustment is done by turning the cammed/lobed bolt that holds the lca onto the rear subframe. Titan used to sell kits to replace the upper control arm bushings to correct camber further, but they seem to have stopped selling them. The only way to correct camber further would be to get adjustable uca's or lca's
if you're right, that means we have no rear camber adjustment whatsoever in stock form..dude
If you look at the stock traction rod, it's angled in a completely different direction and both bolts holding it onto the subframe and hub are normal non-lobed bolts, meaning they are not adjustable. Yet people are somehow still able to adjust their camber?
The bulk of the camber adjustment is done by turning the cammed/lobed bolt that holds the lca onto the rear subframe. Titan used to sell kits to replace the upper control arm bushings to correct camber further, but they seem to have stopped selling them. The only way to correct camber further would be to get adjustable uca's or lca's
07-22-11, 01:08 PM
#15
One really excellent way to correct the camber and toe on your rear tires, is to get rear adjustable lower control arms and adjustable rear toe links...Here's an example of mine's that I had done recently...
When I got it aligned, The guy (Yoshi) was doing all the rear adjustments through the newly installed parts, My front's now sit at -1.9, the rears at -1.5 and zero toe on all fours (Since that's what I wanted) and the steering wheel is now straight.
When I got it aligned, The guy (Yoshi) was doing all the rear adjustments through the newly installed parts, My front's now sit at -1.9, the rears at -1.5 and zero toe on all fours (Since that's what I wanted) and the steering wheel is now straight.
Last edited by CrazySC300; 07-22-11 at 01:31 PM.
